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a normal price for a Bolex 16/32/1.5x is about between  $1,5K and $2K at this moment. Also depending what colour flares it has. The lens in the auction is missing one screw in the front ring, which means that the lens is opened by someone. If that was done by a professional,  you will have all screws. $1K for this lens would be a fair price. If you have luck, you can find higher quality Bolex lenses for less than $1,5K

It indeed looks like either part of an optical printer or reconfigured to or from print duplication use. Seen this lens being re-sold 2 or 3 times from different sellers without much time between auctions - which raises alarm bells as to its real practicality for filmmaking use (and where is footage of it at infinity and variable stops?). No doubt the optics are going to be top notch but I'd want to be assured that its focus can hit infinity with that aperture inside (causing added space between optics), since I would presume that lens was always intended for closeup duplication use, as part of a specific optical printer or telecine machine. I suspect that the variable aperture inside the lens is not going to make the image much sharper when coupled with a taking lens, but rather cut the light transmission to the taking lens and dramatically increase vignette.
In a nutshell, if it was the wonder lens that it is supposed to be, where is example footage of it resolving infinity focus and its results when stopping down with its internal aperture?
EDIT: Found an expired eBay auction that sold for $250 that confirms my hunch...
"This is is multiple lens assembly that was used at Deluxe Film Laboratories in Hollywood for 35mm anamorphic conversion to flat formats for theatrical trailers.  It should not be confused with camera or projector lenses.  Printing lenses are ulta sharp intermediate lenses designed to resolve 35mm camera original high resolution color negative without distortion.   The assembly consists consists of three separate lenses, each of which may be separated for individual use:
Isco Lens VII - Base Lens
Isco Anamophis Printing Lense 2x with Manual IRIS Ring (Like F-Stop)
Isco Lens III - Output Lens
 


I highly doubt the Isco printing lens can hit infinity without stopping it down to a crazy small aperture. You can see from the original configuration that it is basically used for near-macro focus distances, as part of an optical conversion chain. If it could indeed be used for filmmaking use, I would be interested to hear how on earth you would achieve infinity focus. 
I think the current seller on eBay is a member of this forum @Hunterj11
perhaps they can shine some light on this lens?
 

Hey! Recently I did a Promo video for a XCO bicycle race, and the intro was shot using my DIY'ed anamorphic adapter from the 35nap 2-3.
I'm pretty excited about the image I can get with it. The adapter though still needs some work to be a bit more precise in lens alignment, and of course some solution to double focus would be awesome. But for projects, where I have time, I'd try and shoot with it the next time also. Probably a bit too much color effects in the intro to fully enjoy the anamorphic image, but it still shows through.

My third lens is the Kowa anamorphiC 35 - 1.5x. The other two (Bolex 16/32/1.5 and Iscorama pre 36) I sold already. These three lenses belong to the top of anamorphics at 1.5x. They are different from each other but I like the sharpness and clearness of the Kowa. Perhaps this thread will give others to share ideas and footage. Here my first test, paired with the Voigtländer Ultron 40mm and Samsung NX1. Enjoy!
 

KOWA 16D is different lens from SANKOR(SINGER?) 16D,  smaller. 

https://beastgrip.com/blogs/news/introducing-the-beastgrip-pro-series-1-33x-anamorphic-lens
 

You mean the ones used in glasses?) If so, I have those too =)

lomo 35mm 

35NAP 2-2 (mod) | Helios 44-2 F:2 | Sony A6300 (cine4, iso 640)
 

Basically, no single focus lens less than $2k nowadays.

Modify again by adding a negative diopter in side, better accurate focus at infinity, not so wide, measured view angle equals to about 24mm, but distortion improved.  Edge IQ might be not so good.  But still much better than 1.33x lens I used before.  Flares are funny.

Some quick and initial tests with my new system:
5D III (ML RAW) - Bolex 16/32/1.5x - Rectilux Hardcore DNA
 
 
 

don't you see relisted?

Yes. Can be reworked, but cons yet double focus... On man made mechanic single focus for this lens
https://www.facebook.com/anamorphicru-310006809400799/
As an alternative, it is an interesting variant. Some automation on post for right proportions, when change focus, breathing, one special taking lens, but quite cheap compared to other solutions. And there is no additional optics, which makes its own distortion.
My thread about this ana here
 

It is a lomo yes, but it is a projection lens not a true cinema lens like the square and round front lenses. 
There were originally made in 2 mounts Oct18 and Oct19. Both can be converted to PL and there are adapters that can work for going from Oct18 to pl. If you get a Oct18 to PL adapter be sure it is like the one from Ciecio7 with the locking pin otherwise it won't focus properly. There is also an Oct19 mount for red that can be used or you can often times find Lomos that have already be converted to PL since many already have already been.
The round fronts are the newest and also the largest and heaviest. The will all be PL or Oct19 and are the most expensive. Next are the single lens square fronts that will either be OCt19 or PL, they are lighter smaller and cheaper than the round fronts. Lastly are the dual lens Oct18 mount versions most often they are still with their orignal mount. These lenses are about the same overall size as the single part square fronts but are less expensive and not quite as good due to them being two separate lenses that lock together with a pin so both the spherical and anamorphic can be focused in unison. They also require lens support for the anamorphic front otherwise it will rotate during focus. If going this route finding ones already converted or having them converted to PL by Dima at conversiontopl.com would be best. He offers a great mod which not only converts the Oct18 to PL but also adds a PL style locking mechanism to the spherical and anamorphic front so they are almost like single bodied squarefronts. The tight fit allows for better collimation and quality like the more expensive ones but it will still require lens support to prevent the anamorphic front from rotating.

16H/8Z coating might have different.  But Elmoscope-II is exactly the same as B&H.  As I said previously, if mounting the prime lens with front thread 49mm and smaller, or 58mm and bigger, there is no difference for both.

i think that we can agree that the ISCO is much better choice than the cinelux (because of the focusing mechanism).

Actually, ISCO integrated lens is smaller then Cinelux.  There are more other ISCO made big lenses.  To say flares, they all have different version of coating.  And Cinelux new and old version are different too.  But basically they are all belong to quite week as flares.

A bit late to the party, but I've tested out a few different lenses with the FM Focus Module. Nothing scientific, just some run-and-gun home testing. Here are some results. Hope they are useful to someone:
 

Yes, IMO, if you have different 2X anamorphic lens and not plan to sell again.  It is easy to combine them as different ratio anamorphic lenses you like.
Like your Rectimascop 48/2x front lens with ISCO integrated rear lens, you will get a 1.3x or less ratio.  
 

I have a Bolex Moller 16/32/1.5x for sale together with a special clamp from rapidotechnology. It's performs great with edge to edge sharpness and I bought it only recently but surprisingly my new 1.5x lens which I made from a Rectimascop 48/2x front part and the rear element of a Schneider Cinelux 2x delivers very similar results (except the very far edges). Anyway, here is the link to the ebay auction: http://www.ebay.de/itm/RARE-Moeller-Moller-16-32-1-5x-Anamorphot-Anamorphic-Cinemascope-/272477606381   I can also add a 72mm filter adapter in order to mount a Rectilux CoreDNA to the front
Another thing is that I plan to offer my anamorphic attachments and taking lenses as rental items but now I'm a little afraid to rent such an expensive lens out. The Bolex also doesn't work well with my longer Lomo OKC 75mm taking lens, while it works nicely with the shorter lomos. The lomo lenses compose a small set (35mm, 40mm, 50mm and 75mm for the moment), are converted to Arri PL and are intended to be my main rental taking lenses as they could be used with an Arri Alexa in LCS mount. The Bolex seems to work really well with the Nikon 85mm f1.8 as longer lens, though: https://www.flickr.com/search/?text=16%2F32%2F1.5x%20Bolex
 

To me, smaller filter size and larger aperture should be better choice.  So OM 50/1.2 is the one worthy to try, only with 49mm filter thread.

Basically, I have figured out some rules.  
Longer lens has less dioptre than shorter lens.  I got help from a friend in optical shop, where has instrument can check the lens.
These are rear lenses of different 2x anamorphic lenses:
    Sphere/Cyliner
A. +6.00/-6.00
B. +5.00/-5.00
C. +4.75/-4.75  
D. +3.50/-3.50
Front lens should be like this:
E. 0/-13.75
F. 0/-10.50
Many front lens are too thick, the instrument was unable to check.  Also some front lenses I did not take apart.  
For example, if B+F is original 2x lens, then A+F would get about 1.7X, C+F would get 2.2X, and D+F would get 2.7x. 
 
 
 
 

Basically, I have figured out some rules.  
Longer lens has less dioptre than shorter lens.  I got help from a friend in optical shop, where has instrument can check the lens.
These are rear lenses of different 2x anamorphic lenses:
    Sphere/Cyliner
A. +6.00/-6.00
B. +5.00/-5.00
C. +4.75/-4.75  
D. +3.50/-3.50
Front lens should be like this:
E. 0/-13.75
F. 0/-10.50
Many front lens are too thick, the instrument was unable to check.  Also some front lenses I did not take apart.  
For example, if B+F is original 2x lens, then A+F would get about 1.7X, C+F would get 2.2X, and D+F would get 2.7x. 
 
 
 
 

Hi, I just used two different 2x front and rear lens and got at least 2.8x ratio.  But looks like it needs much longer FL taking lens to use.
P.S. Image taken by hand hold front lens, 3m distance, resized only.