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AndreasK

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About AndreasK

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    http://www.andreaskielb.de

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  1. Hi, I would be interested in the Dyaliscope and to remove the fungus. Maybe you could give me the contacts of the seller?
  2. Thanks, I only bought it recently from ebay seller Mario Gorlas (die_bitsbox http://www.ebay.de/usr/die_bitsbox?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754). He had it serviced by a former film technician. They met each other at WDR station, where he also used to service analog film cutting tables. He's also familiar with anamorphics and now services all of Marios lenses. I would not know how to open the Bolex but I can tell from my recent experiences with the Rectimascop that front and rear elements are correctly aligned (...that's the case if the horizontal flares of front and back lens are parallel
  3. I have a Bolex Moller 16/32/1.5x for sale together with a special clamp from rapidotechnology. It's performs great with edge to edge sharpness and I bought it only recently but surprisingly my new 1.5x lens which I made from a Rectimascop 48/2x front part and the rear element of a Schneider Cinelux 2x delivers very similar results (except the very far edges). Anyway, here is the link to the ebay auction: http://www.ebay.de/itm/RARE-Moeller-Moller-16-32-1-5x-Anamorphot-Anamorphic-Cinemascope-/272477606381 I can also add a 72mm filter adapter in order to mount a Rectilux CoreDNA to the front
  4. A good solution for camera heights at eye level is to mount the gimbal overslung on a steadicam sled. Then both, the steadicam arm and the inertia of sled and gimbal eliminate the foodsteps completely. I already did some tests in that direction but have yet to record more cinematic scenes to show the advantages. I made a bracket which can be mounted to the pan motor instead of the handles. You loose some of the flexibility but the change between handle mode and the steadicam mount takes only about 5 minutes. That should be ok on a feature set. You can manage to be up and running again afte
  5. Last week we used our new Porta Head 5 system for the first time with the cablecam and the brushless gimbal brought another improvement into the stabilization together with the kenyon gyro we used before. I edited some footage and making-of-material from the shooting with the cablecam. The camera used was a Canon 5D Mark 3 in RAW modus. Focal length mainly used was 50 mm, some shots used 35 mm and up to 85 mm. Best regards, Andreas Kielb http://www.portahead.de
  6. I made a short video with footage from recent tests and projects with the Porta Head 2 and 5 prototypes. The footage is not stabilized in post to show the actual results of the gimbal. More footage will follow soon and also a test with the gimbal combined with the steadicam.     http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tqoqf3Y-uwg
  7. We plan to offer the Porta Head 2 for cameras up to 2 kg at about 3.000 Euro and the bigger version shown in the video for 6.000 Euro. This one is called the Porta Head 5 as it carries around 5 kg, like a Red Epic with a lightweight Remote Focus. We'll keep you updated here or on http://www.portahead.de
  8. Hello again, we plan to offer our handheld brushless stabilizers soon. There will be a version for cameras around 2 kg, one for cameras up to 5 kg, like the Red Epic and we also build a stabilized head for cameras up to 10 kg, to be used on a steadicam arm or easyrig. The mid sized version is the most advanced in the moment. This is a test with 5 kg weight including camera and brass weights:   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Te2O2bEkgTw We have first prototypes to test and improve step by step and plan to add small joysticks to the handles for better control of pan and tilt in single
  9. In the meantime I almost finished my stabilized remote head and made first tests. Now I need to add the third axis and a second bearing support and do some work on the steadicam jib arm. The third axis is going to use a gear motor until the 3 axis open source controller for brushless motors is available. Will post some raw material when I'm ready.   http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Arjw2_zay_U
  10. Active image stabilization is great in the meantime. But imagine the MöVi or a similar device on a shot of this kind (starting 1:45 min): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYFXv6bDIY8#t=1m45s   Soy Cuba is from 1964 but still a classic with extraordinary shots.The camera was handheld and passed from one operator to another or connected to cablecam trollies ascending from street level, through the building and at the other side again on a cablecam and above the street. Thogether there were two flights with cablecam systems and the rig was connected with a magnet to the trollies for fast co
  11.   Not all steadicam builders and operators missed brushless technology. I'm part of a german open source community, testing and building brushless systems since a few months. Somebody there showcased a DIY gimbal that looks exactly like the handheld MöVI: http://www.imagebam.com/image/e4b9a5247306171 http://fpv-community.de/showthread.php?24682-MoVi-Freefly-Brushless-Gimbal-goes-Hollywood/page2   I did also notice how good this system is for handheld usage, though it is only 2 axis at the moment. But the third axis is on it's way: http://fpv-community.de/showthread.php?24620-O
  12. Thanks @andy, could you tell me with witch cameras you tried it?   @John, do you need to press half shutter with your NEX 5N for AF during video recording or does it do the autofocus anyway? I read a few tests that it's got one of the the fastest autofocus systems. A NEX might be even nicer than a Lumix because of the larger sensor...
  13. Thanks a lot! Nice to hear it works at all :). At the moment I'm quite interested in a used GH1 or GH2, also to test that hack stuff. Eventually I can borrow a GH3 from a friend next week to try the autofocus thing.
  14. Thanks, but do you think it will be smooth enough during a shot? In my 60D manual it seems that the autofocus would "search" too much and that it's necessary to press the shutter half way... what I read in the GH1 manual sounds much better. I'm hoping for an continous adjustment not even noticeable.   I'm planning to glue a standard filter size step ring to the front for diopters like Edwin Lee did: http://www.flickr.com/photos/edwinylee/5392635963/in/set-72157625790618742
  15.   Thanks, that's exactly what I mean... it would be alright if I only need to adjust the anamorphic lens for distance changes. I can do that either myself in ENG style or a assistant can adjust focus with a FF according to marks. That would allow for a normal feature shooting style.   So you think the autofocus lens will adjust correctly? Would be great if somebody with a GH series camera could give it a try :).
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