sgreszcz

Another option is the Shure VP83F shotgun with built-in recorder (and line out + headphone jack).

It actually isn't that bad (except for the 1/60 - then rear dial to 1/50 shutter)... It could be faster if you could set a shutter angle in video mode that ignored the shutter dial. If you don't use 4k photo mode as your C2=4k video, then you don't need to worry about setting the aspect ratio manually to 16:9 (as it overrides the manual setting) but you need to use the back record button rather than shutter button. I often shoot video in shutter "S" mode, so I leave the lens aperture dial to "A" to make things a little quicker. I use C3 for 1080p/50fps (which I wish had an ETC mode like the Gx7/G7). A couple of tricks about moving the focus point. If you are mostly in manual focus mode, you can still use AF-S by assigning it to the back button (AF/AE Lock). Then when you use the back dial, if you click left you can then move the focus point. When you are in AF mode, you can also enable the focus point movement by hitting the left focus type selector on the back wheel and then down (adjust) to enable movement of the focus point. I mostly stay in M focus mode and use the smallest manual focus area plus AF-S on the back AF/AE Lock button. This way you still have access to ISO/WB and drive modes on the rear dial. In video mode I use Fn2 to swap on/off monochrome mode (easier to see focus peaking), and Fn3 to switch EVF. I don't really use the Q.Menu - I wish Panasonic had something like the SCP that Olympus uses. By the way, how do you still use AF-S after recording starts? I can only get that to work when in AF-S mode, and not in Manual focus mode (using the back AF/AE lock button). The AF-S works before recording starts, but not after. I can get the back button AF-S to work after recording on my G7 though.

I just got back from holiday where I travelled with just my LX100 and a 3 and 6 stop ND filter. Such a great little camera, especially for video. It has all the features that you could need, including excellent 4k, good Image Stabilisation, built-in time-lapse and decent HD at 50fps. In fact, for the things I do (kids, community video), I'm not sure why I even own any other cameras. The Raynox 250 macro converter connects directly to the filter thread (49mm) if you are into that sort of thing. For the next iteration, I would appreciate a tilt/touch screen, a better EVF, and AF-S while recording in M mode (works only before recording - my G7 does this during recording).

I get the same thing with both my G7 and LX100. I'm not sure how to improve this. One way I work around this is to use yellow as the colour and then switch the LCD to monochrome to have the peaking jump out a bit more. I find the peaking in my Olympus EM-5II much more obvious. Please post back if you find a solution.

What are the recommended zoom lenses with stabilisation to use with the Speedbooster+G7 combination in run-and-gun/documentary type work? Thanks!

I always fall back to my LX100, especially when I travel as it covers most of what I need range-wise and has a great picture with decent stabilisation. It and a couple of ND filters is all that I carry. The only negatives (for me) is lack of tilt/touch screen and a better viewfinder as I sometimes have problems with seeing focus (with or without peaking). I also cannot get S-AF working when in manual focus mode on the LX100 (which works fine on my G7 - newer camera?). I find that handy to try to keep up with my active kids. I sometimes use my G7+P35-100/2.8 with the LX100 for requiring longer zoom, but the OIS wobble makes me crazy on that lens. I also sometimes use my E-M5II with a couple of primes. I prefer the Olympus colours (looks more real accurate to me) and the stabilisation, but the image isn't nearly as good as the LX100 on wider, more detailed shots. Shallow depth of field looks good on the Olympus, especially when hand holding (see . All of them are good hybrid, lightweight, compact cameras, but when I travel I only take my LX100 due to the excellent manual controls, picture, and fast lens.

@DPStewart - I have a DS1, but haven't had much time to configure it or test it. Is there some recommended documentation or tutorials that would allow me to quickly configure it and the profiles for the camera/lens combinations that I have (G7, LX100)?

I went with this solution as I have/had a couple of cameras without Mic in (Gx7/LX100). http://www.shure.com/americas/products/microphones/vp/vp83f I got it for $200 used from Adorama and I think it sounds pretty good (although Dave Dougdale preferred the Rode VideoMic in his head-to-head test). It records internally to microSD card, and has a headphone monitor jack as well as a line out (with +20db adjustable output) so you can run an audio backup to cameras with a mic input (like my EM-5II/G7). Rode was supposed to release something similar, but it never came to market. I find the H1 a little overkill due to size (and I don't use it much these days due to handling noise - I prefer my Sony ICD-SX1000 which is smaller, but unfortunately discontinued). I wish there were more decent mini-recorders without mics like the Little DARling or Tascam DR-10C (a little bit expensive) which are much smaller than something like the H1.

I'm not sure how best to modify ISO on the fly either. I often just shoot in "S" mode set to 1/50 shutter with auto-ISO and vary the aperture or ND to get the right exposure. Unfortunately you can't change the aperture or shutter using dials when recording. I hope they fix that. I use the 1/2 switch to go between stills/video and a function button to enter ISO/WB mode. I've got one button to switch peaking on (which removes the histogram for some reason), the front button for one-touch WB, and the fn button near the shutter set to "off" as this will engage S-AF when you are in S-AF + Manual focus in video mode. This is cool as you can quickly get back into focus before and during shooting automatically while still being in manual mode. With my Panasonic cameras (and I think with Sony too) I can only use S-AF before recording starts. A couple more things that I like about the E-M5II - I find the colours, especially skin tones better than Panasonic straight out of camera - The stabilisation is so good, and now with the new firmware there is no crop in IS-2 (sensor stabilisation only) mode. I mainly switched from my Gx7 to EM-5II as I couldn't stand the jittery OIS on my 35-100/2.8 lens, and with the Olympus it is solid. - I find the focus peaking and the histogram much better on the olympus. I haven't spent a lot of time with the still side of things, but the high-res images, live composite, live time, time-lapse, face detect functionality is all really cool and useful. I was thinking of using the E-M5II to do tripod-less hyper lapses as with the great IBIS you can use really slow shutter speeds to get motion blur without camera shake.

How do you deal with ND and the contrast filter. Can you stack a fixed or variable ND?

I had the filter holder for the o7-14/2.8 printed from: http://www.7-14filter.com/ I just got the lens yesterday, so didn't have time to test it yet. Looking forward to the film, Ed, and hopefully you can give the client some feedback to continue to improve the camera for video shooting.

I was thinking of swapping mine for a Sony RX100iv, but I love the manual controls on the LX100, the lens is good, the OIS works great and the picture quality is fantastic (except for the funny face colour that I get sometimes). The only things that are missing for me is a better EVF, a tilt screen, and more pronounced focus peaking as I find it difficult to see sometimes. To get around the no mic input, I use a Shure VP83F shotgun with built-in recorder.

I find this a bit frustrating too, although it is nice to have so many good options. Maybe the rumoured Nikon/Samsung deal will shake things up. I wish that Panasonic and Olympus would collaborate on more than just lens mounts. I'm quite bought-into micro4/3 as I love the tradeoff between compactness and quality, and I do about 50% stills. You definitely hit all the key differences and strengths above. I was thinking of selling EM5II+lenses and LX100 and moving to a A7SII and RX100iv but in the end got the £250 G7 to pair with my LX100. Thanks for the continued evaluation of cameras like Olympus, Fuji, and Samsung as there are not many bloggers that cover them. Hopefully the manufacturers read and consider some of the feedback.

I agree with all of this too. I use my e-m5 II as my primary hand-held cam with primes or longer zooms mostly due to the stabilisation and how much I like the colours, especially for people. It is a toss-up whether I take out my lx100 or em5-II with 35mm as a pocket camera as I still do a lot of still photography. I like the Olympus Jpegs right out of camera... i found the Olympus audio input quite noisy with an external mic. What setting do you use, fuzzy? have you switched to the 'movie' picture profile or do you still use the modified picture profiles? The firmware update was worth it for me just for the uncropped IBIS in video mode. if they just took the next steps to get the video to current Panasonic or Sony 1080p quality and allow us to directly change exposure with the dials when recording, it would become an excellent video camera. As a stills camera, it is second to none, with fast AF, magical IBIS, and unique features like live time and live composite and high resolution mode.

A quick shot from this morning's school run. Grey, rainy day - 25fps, 1/50, f3.5 with Olympus 17.5/1.8. Dropbox - original file I still get the menu that pops up on the right of the screen and my dials don't operate shutter or aperture directly as they do before starting to record?

It is definitely a compromise - detailed but jittery images using the Panasonic 35-100/2.8 on my new G7, but rock solid and slightly "fuzzy" shots with the same lens and the IBIS on the E-M5II.

The crop with the MIS-2 (sensor only) is gone now in video mode! There is only the large crop with MIS-1 (sensor shift + digital stabilisation).

Will try some tomorrow - too dark now plus it will take me most of the evening to reset all the configurations!

True about resolve already having the features, but I don't want to learn it and prefer to use FCPX for as much as possible. The new x-rite passport is simpler than the previous macbeth chart which has many more colour patches. http://www.provideocoalition.com/what-good-is-a-macbeth-colorchecker-chart Anyway, I'm just learning (and unfortunately colour-blind) so anything that can potentially help me out with colour is appreciated. What strategies do you use for run-and-gun type shooting or when colour charts or grey cards aren't practical? Do you just select a kelvin setting and correct later in post? I've been lately using custom white balance with an expodisc and seem to be getting better results.

Olympus really does a good job with innovation like the wifi app/tethering, live composite and live time, IBIS, good lenses with manual clutch, focus bracketing, excellent touch screen, high-resolution mode. Rumour has it that they are working on some new faster prime lenses. I'm glad they are finally focusing on video too. My update went OK on my E-M5II, now I just have to reconfigure all the settings that get wiped during a firmware upgrade...

New feature coming to color finale and resolve. Looks like it might be helpful for matching cameras before applying a grade or for building LUTs. https://vimeo.com/146955415

I got mine yesterday too. Don't forget that there is a new firmware update to give 4K video stills post-focus as well as automatic e-shutter (which I find handy in my lx100). Now I just have to figure out how to best configure the dials and function buttons to best match my lx100.

I'm going to update my e-m5 II later on as it adds a few features. If they just worked a bit more on improving the video quality to better match the stills quality, and maybe reduced the video crop a bit (as well as allowing shutter/aperture changes using the dials while recording, this camera would be a dream. There was a discussion previously about Sony/Panasonic colours vs Fuji/canon. I've always enjoyed the Olympus JPEG output and colours. Nice looking natural skin tones and good white balance.

I've been thinking that maybe the RX10 II (or the Panasonic equivalent) for one-camera event-type video as it covers a decent range. I was considering the Canon 24-105 as the IS works with some adaptors. I'm a little weary of longer Panasonic OIS on longer lenses due to the jitter that some lenses (including my P35-100/2.8 has). Thanks for the advise on the Tokina and the RJ Lens Turbo. I'm going to look at the Nikon 24-120 too, thanks. I received the G7 today, and I like the grip and how lightweight the camera is. Unfortunately it has a different battery size than the LX-100 (which are the same of the GX7).

I just picked up a Panasonic G7 to go with my LX100. I have a couple of Olympus prime lenses and the Panasonic 35-100/2.8 which I use with my Olympus OMD E-M5II, mostly for stills. I'm looking for opinions for an ultra-wide lens and something for run-and-gun situations. For the wide I was considering the Olympus 7-14/2.8 or the metabones + Tokina 11-16/2.8. For a run and gun zoom I was thinking either the Panasonic 12-35/2.8, or adapted sigma 18-35/1.8 or canon 24-105/4. I really like my LX100 for the 24-70 equivalent range, although I do miss the tilt screen and I find it tricky to focus with the small viewfinder and the faint (to me) focus peaking. Thanks for advance for any help!