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£249 at Amazon after cash back... I bought one yesterday... I agree, huge fire sale and they are already discounting the gx8.

Thanks for that. I guess for my purposes I wouldn't miss those features. Also, the G7 cannot be switched PAL/NTSC. I'm not too bothered about headphone/input jacks as I bought a used Shure lenshopper with the built-in recorder to get around these audio limitations (noisy em5II preamps, no input on LX100). As long as there is a hotshoe, I'm good. I got a body-only G7 from Amazon for £249 after rebate. Too good a deal. You could get 4 of the G7 for less than a GH4. I am now debating getting the Olympus 7-14/2.8 for my wide angle or adapting the Tokina 11-16/2.8 with the metabones.

It is £449 at Amazon UK, so that is £249 after rebate - a steal. I was thinking about switching to Sony, but I already have u4/3 lenses and it will match up with my LX100. The only thing missing on this camera is the > 30 minutes recording times and the 96fps in the GH4.

I've been struggling with trying to get a good two-camera combo since I started getting interested in video with my original Olympus E-M5. I loved the Olympus cameras for their colour and IBIS, but the video in the older cameras was horrible with larger depth of focus shots or shots with movement or detail. I switched to the LX-100 and GX7 with P35-100/2.8 lens. This combo was great for matching shots and covering 24-200mm equivalent range. However, I couldn't ever get rid of the jitter in the P35-100/2.8 lens when shooting video. So I swapped the GX7 for the newer Olympus E-M5II to handle my longer primes (45/75) and the P35-100/2.8 zoom. I still really prefer the Olympus colours (as I struggle with the Panasonic skintones and foliage/grass greens - I'm playing with Inazuma's LUTs now). The problem here is matching the detailed/crisp Panasonic image and colours with the fuzzier Olympus video and their more natural colours. I've considered selling most of my micro4/3 stuff and going with two of either the Sony RX100 (compact), RX10 (one-camera events 24-200mm), or A7s with the 50/1.8, a portrait lens and the 10-18mm Sony APS-C for wide (lower light, depth of field). It would simplify things, but I have never used Sony cameras, and there is the expense of buying/selling... If I could get Olympus with video quality equivalent to what the GX7 and more recent cameras give (excellent 1080p) I would just get two of those cameras - the IBIS and colours are excellent. If Panasonic fixed their 35-100 OIS jitter, I'd probably get a cheap G7 as a second camera and find a good LUT to give me more natural-looking colours. The extra step of correcting/naturalising colour or matching cameras is a lot of extra work. Thanks for this discussion, I might just get an Sony RX10 to try and then see how I get on with it before buying any more Sony.

I am planning to do some shooting in Canada in December. Previously I've used cameras (like older Olympus) that only had 30fps and I used 1/60s shutter in Canada and 1/50s in Europe to avoid flicker with indoor lights. I now have a PAL Panasonic LX100 (24/25/50 fps) and Olympus E-M5 II (24fps plus PAL 25/50 and NTSC 30/60). What would be the recommended settings for NTSC countries - 24 fps at 1/60s shutter? It is easy in Europe as I just use 25fps and 1/50s indoors or around artificial lights. It is a little frustrating that on most Panasonic cameras they split PAL/NTSC framerates where Sony and (newer) Olympus are world cameras.

Teamrebel design beholder ms1 ($499). The ds1 can hold a canon 5d but costs $50 ($699) more than the osmo. Good review of the ds1 here and he uses it with his em1 + 7-14/2.8.

Hi Seb, what would the workflow be here for using your LUTs? Correct image and colours (balance, luminance, contrast) - I typically try to get the skintones correct here using the vectorscope. Then apply your LUT or do the correction after applying your "pleasing" or "neutralising" LUT? Then use one of the film-like LUTs like VisionColour or Filmconvert and do any final correction? Also, how would you recommend building a LUT to match cameras? You obviously built yours matching your Panasonic to Canon. I would like to match my Panasonic to my Olympus (or my Olympus to your "pleasing" LUT applied to my Panasonic). Could you give me an idea of your workflow and how you did it? Thanks!

Hi Matt, I signed up to Muse. I'm just a beginner who has been trying to learn video on the side, for the past couple of years. Your blog post is excellent and you ask Patrick some interesting questions. Probably like you I've been looking for ways to learn all about video, and most of the online content focuses on technical content and not the craft. For shooting video, most information is around how to set up the camera, expose, shutter speed, etc. but not what type of coverage or shots are needed for editing. Things like composition, the "language" of film or video are also seldom discussed. For audio, there is information on how to acquire audio (get the mic close), microphone types, etc., but not much on the why and even less on how to best use and blend that audio (dialogue, music, nat sound) when editing. For editing, there is much about how to use Final Cut or Premiere, but much less on the craft of editing and workflow. I know there is Inside the Edit, but it is a little expensive and I'm not at that level yet. Finally, and most importantly, there is very little (if nothing) out there where you can learn how to identify and tell a interesting story and get the best out of your interviewees. That is where Muse comes in. For me, I am long past the point where I want to return to school, film or otherwise. I have restricted time due to family and work constraints to acquire the craft-based information from a library (which is also quite limited where I live). I also don't live in a video production hotbed, so have next to 0 possibility to learn through mentoring. I'm looking to Muse to give me insight and help me better understand how to tell a story. I see value in the programme (for me), although I'm just going through the beginning module, and it will take some time for the learning to sink in. I'm meeting up with a couple of people who are working on local "good news" stories so I will be able to practise and improve not only my technical skills, but what I'm learning in Muse. I also have some ideas for larger-scale documentary work that I'd like to do, but the local stories will help me get the confidence and experience to tackle something larger. Some of the paid resources that I've used in the past are: Ripple Training (FCPX, some production/editing craft), The Tao of Color (color correction theory), Larry Jordan (FCPX + editing/production technique), Izzy Video (introductory video shooting / storytelling), Creative Live (Griffon Hammond - Sriracha Doc), Dave Dougdale / Caleb Pike for learning the Panasonic cameras better. There is some good content on Lynda.com by Anthony Q. Artis and Jeff Sengstack. All have been worth the expenditure, for me. There is a lot of pretty good free stuff out there too, for example, I learned a lot from Dave Dougdale and Chris Fenwick showing how they edit and do the audio for a promo. Ripple Training has a lot of good 5-minute how-to videos as well as the longer FCPX virtual user group recordings. There is also a lot of stuff on production or techniques, but once again there is little content that digs into the "why" and shows how to put it all together to get something decent.

that's what I've done. Lx100 for wide and the em5ii with Panasonic 35-100/2.8 for long. The picture is great. I just have to spend some time trying to get them to match...

Yep, you need to take the small ring off to expose the thread (more) and there is a gap where the automatic lens cap grips on to. I spent all summer with just this camera, a 3 and 6 stop ND filter, this ThinkTank Mirrorless Mover 5 bag, a couple of 128GB SD cards, and an extra battery. I use a Heliopan 43-58mm step up ring and 58mm Xume magnetic adaptors to pop on and off the ND (which I sort of use like a lens cap). You can also find a cheap JJC automatic lens cap that is helpful for one-handed shooting (if you aren't using filters). Using the 4k resolution @ 1080p you can get an effective zoom range of 24-150mm, which is good enough for what I shoot. The OIS is quite effective too - much better than I was getting on my Panasonic 35-100/2.8 (although I haven't compared to the P12-35/2.8. I do wish the camera had a better EVF (tilting like GX7/GX8!) and also rear tilt LCD screen. I find the focus peaking very faint in video mode for some reason, especially compared to my E-M5II which is a joy to use and quite visible at all times. It would be useful to have a small mic-in jack and clean HDMI out to use something like the SteadXP device, or the new Rode micros. It would also be good to be able to set the shutter angle (like in the GH4), which would make it easier switching between stills and video, especially in a PAL region where you need to jog the rear wheel to 1/50. When I'm running around, I generally shoot with auto-iso, the aperture dial in auto, the shutter at 1/50 and switch between the two ND filters depending on the light. I'm really glad more people are getting this little camera, as I still have much to learn from others about getting the best out of it. Right now I'm using Natural, -3, -5, -2, 0 as others on the forum have been using with other Panasonic cameras.

Cool, I have to play around with the shots that I've taken with this camera. Sometime soon... I uploaded a couple of more (extremely boring) shots. Sorry, grey day here and not a lot of contrast/colour. Maybe Fuzzynormal or someone else will have some better images for you to play with. I guess this will all change with the new E-M5II firmware. Hopefully Olympus does a good flat picture profile implementation!

I like my E-M5II so far, although I need more time with it. I still prefer the image from my LX-100, by far, but the Olympus colours (to me) look much more natural. I need to do some more testing though. I hope Olympus continues to tighten up their video image to make it look as good as their stills.

Yeah, I had some shots like that but blew it with no NDs. Will go out again this afternoon and get some. Found out that when the aperture goes too high and starts flashing, the actual video clips are completely digitally distorted and not really playable. The other shots just looked super-soft due to the diffraction. I haven't had much time yet to work with my EM-5II as I've spent the summer away with just my LX-100.

Here is a sample with skintones. Shot using the muted profile, -2, -2, -2 at about f4 with the Olympus 17.5/1.8 lens. I went out with the camera this morning to do some wider and more detailed shots but forgot my ND filters and then the sun came out so the images look softer than usual with the high aperture. What sort of things are you looking to test so I can help out? It is the least I can do to thank you for your youtube videos that have been very helpful to me. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/coo46hh6ccsebkt/AADz2R4BQedAuGi0EpHoowsaa?dl=0

Hi Fuzzy, I enjoyed that video, it looks really good and the movement shots really add to the piece in the cutaways. Is there anything specific (holding the camera) that you do to keep the moving shots looking smooth and fluid with the IBIS in the EM-5II? It seems that you are using shorter movements which probably helps. Are you using the IBIS with only sensor shift, or with both the sensor shift + digital stabilisation? I do like the Olympus colours too. Have you done much correction to them in the videos? I have just started experimenting with my E-M5II and I find the AWB to be a little less sensitive than my older E-M5, although I try to lock the white balance using the kelvin settings or use a grey card when I can. I wish there was an auto white balance lock that could be used sometimes. Have you settled on any particular picture profile settings? I'm travelling now with my LX-100, and left my E-M5II at home, so need to do more experimentation. Have you done any matching with your Panasonic cameras? My experience with the E-M5II has been quite good so far. The image looks quite nice - so far I have not seen much image blocking like with the older Olympus video. I find the focus peaking much better than with my (former) GX7 and current LX-100, it is much more visible for some reason. A strange thing is that when you switch on peaking, the histogram goes away. I don't mind the extra crop as I use the E-M5II for longer shots anyways, I also find my 17mm lenses to work as a "normal" in video mode. I find the Auto focus plus manual (AF-S + manual) really useful too - any function button not assigned becomes AF-S in video mode. There are a good number of function buttons to assign to things like peaking, or to switch to ISO/WB control for the front/back dials. The histogram is wider (and more useful in my opinion) than the Panasonic implementation, and I like how it overlays (in green) the histogram of the focus area). I find the horizontal/vertical level display to be less distracting than with the Panasonic implementation. I use the 1/2 lever to switch between stills/video settings quickly. Now with the E-M10II out, I'm not sure there is much advantage to the E-M5II, as I find the tilt screen good enough and I usually use dual-system (when I can) for sound anyway. Thanks for sharing!

Been looking at this for a while. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1091165875/steadxp-the-future-of-video-stabilization Edit: €115 for GoPro, €180 for other cameras.

Hi there, I'm interested in your LUTs, and saw in another thread that you have a Panasonic LX-100. Have you had time to use your LUTs with that camera? What type of camera settings would you recommend to get the best colours, especially for skin? Thank you!

Visited my family in Canada and picked up a E-M5 II for $899 CDN from the Camera Store Calgary. That is about £450! The bad news is that the LCD stopped working after a couple of days. The good news is the Olympus repair contractor shop was 30 minutes from my mom's and they repaired it by the next day. I picked up DSCs oneshot to try as I was visiting Canada, and their office is there: http://store.smpte.org/product_p/dlab-smpte-pos.htm They had a batch with a very small defect on the grey card side, so I got a discount. I want to try it to see if I can match my LX100 to my new E-M5 II, and it seems to be easier with a vectorscope than the Macbeth Chart on the X-Rite Passport (which I also own). http://wolfcrow.com/blog/how-to-use-the-dsc-labs-oneshot-x-rite-colorchecker-or-datacolor-spydercheckr-with-davinci-resolve-to-match-color/ http://www.provideocoalition.com/what-good-is-a-macbeth-colorchecker-chart http://www.provideocoalition.com/cameras_rough_guide_to_color_grading_with_the_new_dsc_labs_oneshot Really new to this, but will be something interesting to learn.

Seems like the autofocus only works with Panasonic cameras and not Olympus? Seems strange since both use the same u4/3 mount.

Does anyone have any tips on reducing the handling noise on the Zoom H1? I find gripping it really tight works OK but that plastic body seems to pass through any slight movement.

I second both Xume + standard ND (I've used Heliopan, but now trying the Breakthrough Photography NDs - review (not mine) of 10-stop filters that include the Breakthrough NDs: http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/10-Stop-Neutral-Density-Filter.aspx). With the Xume magnetic adaptors in a small filter pouch it is almost as convenient as using a variable ND. I keep a 3 or 6-stop on my camera, and use it like a lens cap. I've also used both the Heliopan and Genus Eclipse variable ND filters which also give a good image. I watched your Genus Eclipse vs. Cheap variable ND review, that was really useful. I also found two more here: https://frankglencairn.wordpress.com/2012/12/08/nd-fader-shootout-heliopan-vs-the-new-genus-eclipse/ http://www.newsshooter.com/2012/12/06/genustech-eclipse-fader-nd-filter-sets-new-standard-all-for-165-us/ I don't use lenses larger than 58mm and step up to filters of that size, so it keeps the cost down. Some day I need to take the time to do a comparative colour/sharpness test...

I agree with everything that Mattias says (although I've never used the rx100 series) The LX-100 OIS is really quite good, unlike my Panasonic 35-100/2.8 which is a great lens for still but for video is full of jitter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1sNjEfD3GE I used to own the E-M5 I (and E-P5) and really loved the colours and shooting video in portrait situations with shallow depth of field. What I didn't like was how the image got all blocky when there was movement or if the shot was detailed/wide. I really liked the camera for stills too, so I recently sold my Gx7 to replace it with a EM-5 II to get the better stability with longer lenses and the stills features that I missed. The video isn't as good on the E-M5 II compared to Panasonic, but I will mostly be using it for close-ups and shallow depth of field and my LX-100 for the wider/detailed/4k shots. As for flicker, I owned the E-M5 I, and shot both in Europe and in Canada and adjusted the shutter from 1/50 to 1/60 depending. I really didn't notice any flicker, except sometimes a "skip" or "flash" that randomly happened in the video sometimes. I saw this with both my E-M5 and E-P5 and other users on the OMD video facebook page said that they experienced the same and said that maybe it was interference from the IBIS? I'm not really sure how much the whole 25/50 fps and 30/60 fps issue is. I bought an LX-100 in Europe for around €700, but would have preferred to get one for $600 in the US. I'm glad the E-M5 II is a world camera (PAL/NTSC), but I'm not sure how bad the flicker problem is? What do people do with flicker when shooting 24fps? I always just default to 25 fps in PAL-land as it is close enough? Here are some stills showing some good video from the E-M5 I and some bad video:

​I have the LX-100 and love it. It has decent image stability, a nice lens that covers a useful range (24-75mm), great manual controls, and records a nice 4k picture which looks fantastic in 1080p. I also like the grip and ergonomics of the camera - it feels good in the hand. I also owned the GX7, which I used with my Panasonic 35-100/2.8 lens, but sold it for a few reasons: 1) I missed some of the features that the LX-100 has - auto ISO in manual mode, being able to switch the display to monochrome to allow the peaking colour to stand out, quieter mechanical leaf shutter for stills (the GX7 was loud and electronic shutter gave me distorted pictures), full manual controls of shutter, aperture, exposure compensation. 2) The P35-100/2.8 was giving me a lot of jitter when using the OIS. I had been thinking of trying another copy of the lens, but in the end I just decided to sell the GX7 and buy an OMD E-M5II for any longer focal length video work (and for stills with P25/1.4, O75/1.8 lenses). The LX-100 is a great all-round video and stills camera. I have a step-up filter ring to 58mm which I use with a set of standard ND (3/6/10 stop) and xume magnetic filter adaptors. I leave a 3x or 6x on depending on light conditions and use them like a lens cap. When I went on holiday I fit the LX-100 + a variable ND in a tiny Thinktank Mirrorless Mover 5 case. I have the LX-100 set up quite comfortably (for me) right now. Custom C1 is for stills. C2 is set up for 4k video, and C3 for 1080p/50fps. Fn1 for switching between custom modes, Fn2 for switching between monochrome/colour EVF, Fn3 for locking the control buttons. AF/AE is set for autofocus (which I wish worked during recording when in manual mode!). To switch to video I just select my C2 setting, switch the shutter dial to 60, the back dial to adjust the shutter to 50, and then Fn3 to lock the settings. Outdoors I generally leave the aperture dial to A and modify exposure with ND. Indoors I use Auto-ISO and/or vary the manual aperture dial for proper exposure. I'm using picture profile "Natural", -3 Contrast, -5 Sharpening, -2 Noise Reduction, 0 Saturation which seems to be OK to me (I need to do more colour testing though which is hard for me as I'm colour-blind). I wish the LX-100 had a tilt EVF/screen as I do miss that on the Gx7 as most of the stuff I shoot is of my kids and it is easier to get low shots. Regardless, even the small LX-100 EVF is handy for seeing in bright outside light. It would be great if they could extend the video recording time on the LX-100, as well as allow you set the minimum shutter speed for iAuto-ISO (for stills). I'm also not sure why there is no ETC mode for 1080p settings. Panasonic, in general, should allow AF-S during recording when in manual focus mode. I used this a lot with my Olympus if I needed to quickly regain or ensure focus. I prefer a bit of focus hunting (which I can edit out if needed) than out of focus shots. I also find that sometimes the focus peaking on my LX-100 "disappears" - I still haven't figured out why. It would be nice if Panasonic offered a way to "fix" the shutter speed (say to 1/50 for 25fps or 1/100 for 50fps) and ignore the manual shutter dial to save an adjustment step with the back dial. It would also be useful to allow us to use the shutter button to stop/start video as I sometimes "miss" the small back record button.

I've just sold my GX7, and have the EM-5 II on order. I am looking to do a small doc (for fun) this September about one of the crazy mountain town fiestas in Spain (http://descubriendovillanuevadelcampillo.blogspot.com/p/los-quintos.html). I'm going to use my LX100 for wide/4k with the possibility of picking up a pistol-grip gimbal to use with it. The E-M5 II will be used with some of my longer primes or zooms for closer IBIS stabilised shots so I don't need to mess around with a tripod/monopod and can switch quickly between the two cameras. I liked the image quality of my old E-M5 for shallower depth-of-field or portrait shots, but hated when the image fell to pieces when subjects moved, or there was too much detail. I'll probably have a couple of other cameras on tripods to use for wider cut-away shots inside the cathedral or in the plaza but haven't decided on GH2/G7/GoPro yet. I still have a lot of prep/testing to do, and I need to learn fuzzy's ninja moves to get those nice EM-5 II "slider" shots!