jase

Thanks! Which lenses would be suited in your opinion?

Why wouldnt you use the SIgma handheld? Because it is so big? I would tend to put both hands on the lens and leave the body "handsfree" (the same i did with the Voigtländer in combination with the GM1). Dual IS is tempting, but focus by wire simply doesnt cut it. I hate it... so in the m43 realm, the only lenses that would be suitable for me are the oly pro 7-14 or 12-40 since they have a good manual mode (at least thats what i have read). Of course, the Pana 12-35 2.8 could be a perfect fit for Dual IS, but yeah.. focus pulls will be a pain.

Finally finished the recap of 3 weeks of backpacking in Peru! Lessons learned: Dont just bring a MF only lens with you, I had discard too many shots that would have been great, yet where out of focus. Next to 1, dont just bring a 25mm lens with you, especially for landscape this does not cut it. Next time I will buy a (ultra) wide zoom, this will give me much more possibilities. Maybe the Sigma 18-35, will see... And dont forget your sun hood

thanks, need more coffee.

where did you read that? cant see it in the original thread.

And what if i told you, that they were all shot in 720p? Panasonic makes amazing cameras, Best bang for the buck.

Thanks! This seems to prove in turn @bunk's theory: i would say that placing the filter between adapter and lens yields an image that has much lens flare/haze, yet the filter effect is reduced. I think i could live with that, awesome @Justin Bacle

Thanks again, Brian! Do you think that i have to cut my filter glass in such a way that it fits the diameter of the speedbooster glass? Otherwise it would have to rest on the black surface and this will likely to break the filter when attaching a lens?

Thanks guys! @Chris Oh: why not go directly for the GM5? Has a (though crappy) EVF and 1080p 60p. Yet the display is smaller...

Hands down, GM1 and the Voigtländer was really a next level combo for me. I disagree with you jonpais, pictures are not shaky as hell. The good thing is that because the cam is so small, you hold the lens(!) with one hand and the other one focuses - no need to hold the body since it is just a bigger lens cap. The following videos were shot by me with this combo, with no gimbal, tripod at all - not even a neckstrap to stabilize anything: https://vimeo.com/112851875 https://vimeo.com/106980788 https://vimeo.com/101335718 https://vimeo.com/96670129 https://vimeo.com/89190460

That would be great! In general, I just want to be able to shoot in a bright source. I totally accept that the image changes (since this is lens dependent), but at least I want to be able to see something at all :D

Ha, now it gets interesting! Can you confirm that there are less issues with flare with such a setup?

Thanks Brian! But other than the crushing aspect, what do you think? And do you know by chance, how much space we have between the Sigma 18-35 and the metabones xl ef?

Thanks for the thread, good read. Yet, today we have adapters for mirrorless that allow the placement of the nd behind the lens - and no one complains about loosing infinity focus. Some other quote from this thread: Well, knowing that my filter is a fraction of a millimeter and multiply that even by 0.3 - thats like nothing.

This. My issue with selecting lenses is that the Voigtländer was the first real manual lens I ever owned & used extensively. It raised the bar astronomically so that all other lenses dont "feel" good when using them.

So, as some of you guys might know, I am a big fan of the Tiffen Ultra Contrast Filter. I get awesome results (for my taste), yet I am about to drop it. Why? Because Shooting with the sun pointing in whatever angle to my lens yields an image with so much flare, that i get one big misty mess. No sunhood helps, hell even when I use my whole palm of my hand as a sunhood, it only helps in some cases, yet not all of them. However, since I like this filter so much I was thinking the following: cant i just put it behind the lens instead of in front of it to avoid this huge amount of flare? Of course, even if this would be possible, it is next to impossible getting the filter glas behind the lens. But how about using a speedbooster and put the thin filter glas on top of the filter and yet behind the lens? Is this a stupid idea because the flaring would still be the same regardless the position of the filter? Maybe @Brian Caldwell could chime in...

Well, since I am an avid FCPX user, i work with proxies on my Macbook Pro 2011 and it works flawlessly. Sure, the preview looks a bit.. disappointing, but for editing, I dont need the perfect IQ.

While currently editing my trip to Peru which was my first project with the GX80, I have to admit that the 4k clips just look plain awesome... If it would only have slowmo.

Ty, wasnt sure if this table is still up to date, especially with those recent achievements. so 1920x672 continous, without desquashing pixels. This camera is so tempting.

Sorry for digging, but which resolution allows continuous recording in 50/60p currently with ML? I have seen quite some recent progress with the desquashed pixels, but I am not involved deeply enough to understand it completely...

True, i am only shooting 1080p, but again only because I need the slowmo. I didnt do any bulletproof tests but I think the 4k is superior. Yet, 1080p is good enough for me.

Looks really awesome. If i hadnt such negative experiences with drones (ok given, it was a DIY project 6 years ago) this video would make me buy the Karma. Does anyone know to which FOV this 2.7k linear mode translates to?

Perfect solution. Used in on my trip to Peru, worked flawlessly. Has an own battery, so no AC needed. Copies from SD and also from your smartphone by using their app.

Ah, i see. This would be heaven to me, thanks for the info!

Thanks, yet this is stressing my fingers, having to press the shutter button all the time half pressed while focusing with the other hand. Based on your statements I assume that using a lens like the Canon 35mm F2.0 IS with manual override doesnt change that, right? E.g. i have to press the shutter button all the time half way, otherwise the MF wheel has no effect (or I have to lock the AF after using it)? If yes, I hope Panasonic will use the S-AF/MF implementation somewhere in time where i can press the AF button during recording all the time to get AF, yet be able to turn the focus wheel at any time without having to press the shutter button or stuff like that.