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Gábor Ember

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Everything posted by Gábor Ember

  1. You should definitely replace the iscorama with an iphone adapter...
  2. Yesterday I talked briefly with my friend and he said that he can't do nonlinear helicals (doesn't have the equipment) so single focus is out. We are probably going to use threads instead of grooves for focusing (like on the original lenses) but with matching focus ring rotation (same angle and direction from min. focus to max).
  3. I am still designing the housing. I have some problems with the aperture setup, I don't yet know how to implement it to be really sturdy. I can probably finish the design next month (I mean not just the design but the measured CADs) then my friend (if he is willing) can make it in a few weeks. These part that I posted should be the first, then the full tube that holds the lenses. After these I need to measure the correct focusing distances and make the helicoids according to this. The last ones will be the focus (and maybe aperture) rings.
  4. The squeeze varies yes, usually it gets lower at closer distances (for example 2x at infinity and ~1.66x at 1.5m for my Sun). You can use diopters for close up shots, you can have your gear focused at infinity, this way your squeeze factor remains 2x.
  5. In that case your lens behaves vertically as a 85mm (vertically you get the same field of view as if you were only using your nikkor) and horizontally as a 42.5mm (horizontal field of view extended).
  6. A finnally got around to start actual CAD work, still pretty noob at it. I don't know how to make threads but the sizes are accurate. Sun front, Sun back, Helios block Slot for the Sun back lens that sits right on the front of the Helios block Ring that holds the Sun back lens in the slot (similar to the original design, except now it is on the front side of it) I still don't know if white lithium grease would be good as helical grease for this build. Also I am thinking of screwing a M42 to EF adapter to the back of the lens tube with 3 screws. Would this be a good idea or is i
  7. Well, that was pretty awesome! Very good image (quality and composition), I like the color too. I got to watch it with sound too, can't do it at work :)   This looks way sharper than Tito's Foton-A film (right tool for the right job, it did fit the gritty look)
  8. People on the streets. That's what I'm going to do. We already have a christmas market (little shops) built on the main street of the city so there are going to be a lot of people looking for presents. Many people, various objects in the shops and even some christmas lighting. Damn, they start this whole business a little too early... :) Do some shallow DoF shots with light in the background.
  9. It is not that way. The anamorphic has to be absolutely correctly aligned to the camera sensor, not the horizon. Also you have to use the correct unsqueeze ratio in post processing, otherwise you get distortion when rotating your camera+lens.
  10. Could you post some stills at full res? I am really interested in the real quality, youtube is kind of mushy.
  11. How would you get oval bokeh on an iPhone? I appreciate the idea but I cannot believe that the resulting video will have the anamorphic look. 1.33x squeeze is not very noticeable even on a big sensor camera.
  12. Considering that a simple feature like anamorphic desqueezing can't be done at full fps on a 550D in ML I don't think that the CPU could handle the stress of h.265 encoding. The media encoder chip needs hardware codec support. Software encoder on a camera CPU will be very slow.
  13. Yeah from the image it looks like it should be unscrewed at the 4inch mark of the tape measure. The remaining part should be like this: http://transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/iscon3.jpg , this is the anamorphic adapter part. I suggest you ask JohnBarlow
  14. If it worked without the taking lens then it means that it has the original taking lens on the back of it (the projection lens). By itself an anamorphic adapter cannot produce an image. You should try to unscrew the back part of the lens, or maybe post an image of the lens first.
  15. I think it looks good. The only thing I would suggest is to stabilize your shots (either on location or in post)
  16. Sorry, I did not mean that it was my original idea, of course it is not. I meant that the same idea I am working on.  
  17. Well I guess my idea of rehousing the taking lens and the anamorphic together caught on. I will rush my design and buy up all SUN anamorphics I can find and sell the rehoused stuff for 1K. I will be rich. Market it as a whole new design with the intention of vintage look and retro flare.   I am glad that anamorphic lenses are being produced, just don't try to fool anybody. At the very least make it look different. Make it durable, metal. I think it would be very nice if this "new" lens properly mention what it is. Say that it is a Zeiss Jena taking lens and a Pana anamorphic paired toge
  18. Well sort of. It needs to be mounted on the back lens group and move together with it. It can be done on telephoto lenses that have room at the back of the lens (check out the back of a Jupiter-37A, you could easily fit a Helios back lens group in there), otherwise the focal reducer hits the mirror. Would be good to own a mirrorless cam. That way I would not need a negative diopter, I could move the whole lens closer to the sensor.
  19. Are there any negative diopters? I mean usually they are useless but does anyone know about them being produced for photography? I used the back glass group of a Helios as a focal reducer successfully but it reduces the working distance and I want to counteract this by using a negative diopter. I haven't used this for anamorphic yet, but I thought I ask this here.   Here is a Hoya 200mm f3.5 working as a 135mm f2.0 (estimated)
  20. I bought my SUN for about $100. I think you can sell it for $200-250. I don't think it worth more than that. You may see some on ebay for 500 but that is just madness for this.
  21. Well this video does not have any anamorphic look.
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