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Tito Ferradans

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Posts posted by Tito Ferradans

  1. 7 hours ago, Tim Sewell said:

    As far as I recall he found that, in the lens he was testing, the amount of anamorphic compression varied according to the focus distance.

    That's not a "bug", it's how that particular method for focusing anamorphics works. It's how the original cinemascope lenses, by Henri Chrétien, worked. It makes for lighter designs a lot of the time, and less glass elements, but has the downside of lowering your squeeze factor as you focus closer.

    It happens with ALL double focus systems. 🙂


  2. On 7/19/2020 at 2:24 AM, Jamie DeWolf said:

    Hey everyone, thank you Tito for this chart, you're my hero! I've recently gone way down into the rabbit hole on anamorphic research. I've been shooting for years and only recently learned the magic I've been missing comes down to the Anamorphic look. I'm more into the bokeh and the cinematic 'painterly' quality to the image and don't really have too much interest in the flaring so much. I have a GH5 and an Arri Amira. Following your flow chart feels like it leads to the Isco Ultra Stars, would they work on both the GH5 and the Amira? And how would that compare to the Rapido Full Package C? I'm looking for something that 'could' be used in a documentary handheld free form quality and also narrative on sticks and sliders. Forgive me if this question is answered somewhere, I've been researching everywhere for specifics.

    Hey Jamie, I'm glad the chart helped!

    That's a pretty specific question. If you want more details, you can send it at www.tferradans.com/askme . Otherwise, yes, they would work on both cameras, with different limitations.

  3. 8 hours ago, 026163 said:

    How would you suggest recreating the anamorphic look with diopters? I’ve been trying to do this for a second camera to match A Cam (can’t afford two anamorphic adaptors) and what do you mean by bpm?

    His note is not only about diopters, but the oval disks and anamorfakes. If you want more info on how to recreate the anamorphic look without anamorphic glass, I wrote an entire guide about it.

    www.anamorfakeit.com :)

  4. Hey guys, I started livestreaming on my channel - anamorphic on a budget, you're not familiar - and I'm doing a Helios 44 anamorfake next Wednesday at 11:30am PST. I'm giving away the resulting mod at the end of the process to someone in the stream, so there's a chance you can walk away with a fresh lens on the way. :)

     I'd love to see a bunch of you there. I'm answering questions there too, so if you got something to ask, that's a good chance!

  5. 6 hours ago, Paul Jonathan said:

    I've seen a number of announcements around the web from last fall, but no real hands-on reviews.

    I'd be really grateful for anyone experiences on these!

    I'm trying to shoot my tests with the rehoused Helios today so I can put the video up next weekend! Subscribe to the channel if you haven't yet!


    5 hours ago, heart0less said:

    And if you want a first-hand experience, maybe @Tito Ferradans will be able to help you a little bit more.
    ( :

    Right on point, my friend. :)

  6. On 4/6/2020 at 6:23 AM, kye said:

    Well, this is impressive..

    Not many anamorphics make me want the anamorphic look, but this one was a little different.  Great video.

    I really wanted to like this video! The opening is super strong and the visuals are very nice. 

    But as a lens review, he talks so little of it and has so little footage using it, it's disappointing. Lots of buildings and upshots of town that don't show any bokeh or the parallax he talked so much about. :(

    Plus that "Blade Runner" grade ain't cool. :(

    Am I going crazy here, or is that how you feel too?

  7. 21 hours ago, Skylight said:

    Thanks Tito! I’ve been following your stuff for months (it’s incredible!). I appreciate you weighing in and love that you’re a fellow Canadian!

    Why do you recommend the Samyang primes for modding? Is this a better option than the Ironglass lenses?

    Thanks in advance!

    Thank you! 😄

    I like the Samyang because they're much more neutral than the Ironglass and in the end you might end up spending way less plus having full control over the mods. There's also Contax, or even a Russian set, but the Samyangs are guaranteed to work fine with your clients.

    Check out www.anamorfakeit.com for more info and samples and a guide!

  8. 9 hours ago, HockeyFan12 said:

    Thanks. It looks like a +0.5 is a necessity on the lomo. It only focuses to 1.5 meters so with a +1 you're missing the 1-1.5 meter range entirely.

    So the Focars, if they are +1 and +2, are not a good option except as a supplement.

    I talked with Raf and he thinks the 86mm might vignette as the original lomo diopter lenses are 93mm. I can custom order a Schneider +0.5 close up filter (single element) for a lot of money, but otherwise I can't find any good options. Do you know of any? If not no worries, appreciate all the help and will be confident getting the Schneider that it's the best option.

    Series 9 are unthreaded 86mm, so maybe you can get some wiggle room there? They are usually cheap enough that you could order just for trying, and they have +0.5. If you wanna be extra safe - and extra large - 4.5" and 138mm also exist, or look for the elusive +0.8 4x4 I found once.

    7 hours ago, heart0less said:

    This popped up only today.

    Unfortunately, it's 82 mm..


    I'm a bit skeptical and would only believe after seeing results and comparisons...

  9. I'm a big advocate of faking it. Get a spare samyang set and install fakes on all the lenses. Done, focus super quick, big aperture, sharp images. Works fine with gimbals. Boom.

    Another option is to get the Sirui 50/1.8 and be creative about simulating other focal lengths with it. I have a video about the subject coming up in a few weeks. :)

  10. 9 hours ago, HockeyFan12 said:

    Thanks again, I might try it (and look for a century 86mm +1.6) but I worry the deep threads would vignette on a Lomo 50mm square front and with the Raf adapter, but have no way of knowing.

    50mm is pretty long and it should be ok if you're shooting S35 - unless you're pushing the limits.

    9 hours ago, HockeyFan12 said:

    The lomo squarefront focuses to 1.5m I think, which is pretty bad (5 feet). With a +0.5 or +1 diopter do you know what the new range would be?

    My calculator has a tab for diopters. It's simple math, but getting min focus by hand can be mildly annoying

    9 hours ago, HockeyFan12 said:

    Also it is not a good lens optically, it is not sharp around the edges to start with. So I don't know if that means it needs all the help it can get or if the cheaper diopters wouldn't make much of a difference when it's already so bad. Thanks again, I value and appreciate the expertise. 

    .Hahahahaha! Good point. I guess it's a creative choice. Personally I'd go for the "it needs all the help it can get", but depending on the project you can easily get away with it being blown to smudges.

  11. The Rapido seems good. I haven't tried it yet, or heard from anyone that got it.

    I have two sets of Vivitars (86 and 52), and had the 95mm too. They all suffer the same issues around the corners, especially past the +1. You can kind of see that in the video, the +4 and +10 shots definitely don't feel in focus. The DOF is too thin and it's virtually impossible to get anything. You really have to stop the lenses down.

  12. 32 minutes ago, HockeyFan12 said:

    Thanks, Tito. I just missed a $60 Focar A on eBay. There are a few available with a Zoomar right now, too. 

    But it sound like if they're just +1 and +2, the main advantage over the Vivitar 95mm is older coatings that match the character of older lenses? I was hoping the A would be fractional, or they would be doublets for the price.

    I was planning to use these with the 95mm Raf adapter on an old Lomo square front. There are lomo diopters that look higher quality on eBay for about $900 but you need to drill a hole into the front of the lomo lens I think?

    Do you have any recommendations? Maybe I only need a +1 after all....

    There are several sizes of Focars, so be careful to get the 95mm version, and not the small ones - which are cheap.

    As far as I know they are NOT doublets nor fractionals.

    I once managed to grab a 4x4 +0.8 Tiffen diopter but I haven't seen any other mentions of it since then.

    Another option is to get Tiffen/Schneider 4.5" (114mm) or 138mm diopters. These are plentiful and can be found for cheap when used. There's a +0.5 and a set of two or three will still be cheaper than the LOMO crazy diopters anywhere else. These Tiffen or Schneider have pretty neutral coatings so they don't impart any character on the lenses behind them. Another advantage of the extra-large size is that you'll avoid most of the edge areas where quality drops the most.

    You'll have to put on your 3d modeler hat and cobble together a holder for them though, since they're not threaded. :)

  13. 12 hours ago, leslie said:

    @Tito Ferradans might be the man to ask, he's like the guru with the mojo, i'm sure he'll turn up sometime shortly.  

    I heard my name, so I here I am!

    I have never used the Focars, but their price is a bit unrealistic. They're +1 and +2 (A and B respectively). What I have experienced using cheaper diopters though is severe degradation of the image towards the edges. It's harder to see with the weakest +1, but if you keep your eyes peeled, you should be able to notice it. I noticed it while shooting tests for the Vazen 40mm, Sirui and other more recent tests.

    Regardless of brand, it's still super hard to find a huge fractional diopter...


  14. 8 hours ago, Alex-Roman said:

    Ouh..! Thanks anyway ;)

    So, would you recomend me to sell mine and grab a new double-focus 2x with a single focus solution instead? I had B&H Kowa 2x before with RectiluxCore DNA but it was tooooo heavy for me. Any recomendations Tito?

    Thanks a lot in advance.


    Nope, try doing the mod. I know it's not too hard. I just never had a chance to do it. If you manage to film the process, I can even make a video for the channel! :)

  15. 5 hours ago, 026163 said:

    Hi everyone, i'm having a hard time distinguishing between the many types of closeup lens attachements. I have an aivascope anamorphic adaptor with an 82mm front thread. It focuses to about 1m away, but I would love to have an adaptor to do extreme closeup macro shots (within 1') of the lens.

    I've seen closeup lens filters for as little as $3 all the way to $200 for the Hoya set, all claiming to do the same thing. Can anyone explain why there is such a variance in price? Is there nothing available for around $50 that will do the trick well enough?


    Here's some info on the price/quality variance

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