Emanuel

Hongdae.










Choosing stills is different than choosing shots for an edit because the movement really makes things completely different, so I've ended up with much cleaner and more minimal stills.
In reality, every street and alleyway in every direction looked like this virtually as far as the eye could see:

So, just found out about a software plug in called Real Smart Motion Blur. It analyzes the footage then applies motion blur to things that are moving. I haven't tried it (yet) but the previews look pretty good.
https://revisionfx.com/products/rsmb/fcp/
This might let me use a fast shutter speed but still have it look like I was shooting at 180º.

Really? What about that then? Let's spill your beans... what stops you to add anything value to the topic instead, mmm?! ; )
I simply hate when lazy people who have just added zero to any discussion come to simply criticize whoever (it's meaningless to be me BTW, trust me, but that gives me more right to address to the critical voice these words now) with none grounds to their claim. Pity you were not my student at University or Polytechnic or you'd have to repeat the academic year...
Now you know what I have to say to you for the subject matter, I invite you to drop your trousers and let us know what polls you are capable to offer!
Phew : X

I need to actually film an example that I post online, but gyroflow is quite impressive at least if you film wide. Easy to get a steadicam look or a gimbal look, if you are going for more of a steadicam/stable handheld look you don’t have to crop in much. Only annoyance is with my Nikon Z6 there is no internal gyro recording so I have to use an external device (my phone).  Cameras like the Sony fx30 look so tempting because they record internal gyro; seems like such an easy workflow. 

thanks a lot for the info. will research on this. 
I have some manual focus lenses over 100 mm, especially from medium format. so it will be great to have good use for them. now I only use them for taking photos. it will be great for video shooting. some lenses are very interesting, like bronica 110-220 vivita series 1 70-210 etc. will research and try this gyro stabilization approach. 

The poll needs an option for "seems to work well, but it is annoying to have the extra processing step" and "I hope they'll just add it to Resolve (if they didn't already and I missed it)"

I've heard of it before but never tried it. Now that I'm putting together a shoulder rig, I should experiment with it. Even if I only use it a bit now and then it might help. I do want to maintain the shoulder held look and don't want the gimbal look.

Yep. I find the most efficient workflow for those who need external gyro loggers is to use either a phone with the GyroCam app or an action camera. This is because they record video as well as the gyro data. Then when you come across a clip from your mirrorless camera you want to stabilize, just find the corresponding video clip where the same action is occurring; then you just sync up the gyro. 

I tried using just pure gyro logging on my iPhone mounted to my Z6, but easily got lost trying to find matching gyro files, especially if I forgot to log for a take or whatnot which would throw off my sequential order of gyro clips. Having a visual reference is way better. Of course, in a perfect world we would get internal gyro like on new Sony bodies, blackmagic cams and reds, but this is a solid workaround. I also have played with both After Effect’s Pixel Motion Blur and Davinci Resolve Studio’s motion blur. Both are good; AE might be a bit more accurate, Davinci’s faster, but both work well. I will say for very fast moving stuff though it’s very hit or miss. And I am starting to realize the tediousness of the post-production workflow. 

Okay, so I did a test. Using a Digital Bolex and shoulder mount rig, three lenses, 5.5mm, 10mm and a 17mm. I mounted an iPhone with a holder, had it facing up with the app SensorLogger to record gyroscope data. I started the app a few seconds before rolling the camera. The Gyroflow software seems to figure out how to auto sync them very well somehow. (I didn't try the plug ins for Resolve or Final Cut.)
It took awhile to understand how it works but I think I got it now. This video helped a lot.
NURK FPV - The Definitive Gyroflow Tutorial
https://youtu.be/QAds3x8UU1w
 
The results are very good. I'm impressed. I shot in 2K so finishing in HD would mean potentially not losing any resolution. I'm mostly interested in just smoothing things out a tiny bit so this should be good. I like this better than operating a gimbal.
I need to play around more with it though. There are some points with smearing that comes from a 180º shutter. I'll do another test sometime with a narrower shutter angle/shorter shutter speed and see what that looks like.
If this becomes a normal part of my workflow I might want something simpler, like a GoPro or something. (It is one more thing to do when shooting.)
 

I did another test. In case it's useful to anyone I'll document my process. (And I'm still learning it so there might be a better way.)
I shot with an iPhone mounted on the camera rig and started SensorLogger app a bit before rolling. I tested it with all the shutter angles narrower than 180º. There's a balance between avoiding weird motion artifacts (blurring) and movements looking to jittery. I found for my taste the best to be either 120º or 90º. I'll have to play around more to decide what to use.
In Gyroflow, I brought in a video clip, then set the Lens Profile (there are crowd sourced presets or you can make your own or use one that's close to your lens and sensor size). Then open the motion data (the gyroscope file from SensorLogger).
You then click somewhere on the timeline and choose Guess IMU orientation here. This analyzes the data and figures out which value is X, which is Y and which is Z. (As every device is different.) For my iPhone 8 and SensorLogger it's Zxy. (Once you know that you can just enter that each time into the IMU Orientation field and you don't have to have it guess again.)
There's a field (and check box) called Rough gyro offset. Check that and enter how many seconds you figure was between starting the app and rolling the camera. Then you click AutoSync. It works away and stabilizes and lines up the stabilization with the footage.  There are a few different ways to view it. Full cropped frame, or zoomed out with a rectangle and you can see your footage moving behind that. There will be vertical red bars in the timeline that indicate where the black outside enters the frame. You can adjust the FOV (field of view) and Smoothness to not have any red bars. For me shooting in 2K and finishing in 1080, I set the FOV to 0.94 which means it won't scale up larger than pixel to pixel. I then adjust Smoothness so I don't get any red bars. I also have it set to No Zooming. This is for a project where I want to just smooth the camera motion a bit but leave the camera motion in. 
Then export to ProResHQ and edit those new clips. (This is using the stand alone app. If I end up using this a lot I'll check out the Final Cut plug in.)
I'm pleased with the results so far. Hope this helps somebody.

What's your shot for the sake of it?
Or you'd rather have it in-camera?
(let alone the use of gimbal for other topic, right? ; )
 
Gyroflow is free and keeps your stuff untouched (if we can call it like that! : D)
 
Note: going on Catalyst browser, you just need to open your wallet there...
For some other interesting input on topic with some additional and useful cameraman techniques, click the link.
 
In the BMD world: https://forum.blackmagicdesign.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=203401
 
And here is some tutorial somehow RED's related, among any device where motion data is recorded by the camera.

Where? Can you post a link, please? :- )

on my YouTube channel, I did a rough statistical analysis on the upvotes, 80% from go pro 12, 15% from magic lantern cams, 5% from f3 and red m-x cams. 
when I use go pro 12, my style is very different, as I know the camera movements will not reduce the image quality. in almost every shot, I do panning, tilting, walking, etc. also the camera is so small, I can go closer as people accept this as a toy cam. many times I attend events that I will not bring bigger cameras at all, I bring go pro 12 in my pocket, and can get some shots. the end results actually are very compelling. 
magic lantern cameras are very good for color. f3 is also very good for color, just ergonomically not easy to handle. red m-x cameras may have film like rendering so that please people's eyes. 
in general, I think a small action camera with m43/43 sensor, so that the low light is borderline usable, with gh7's ibis and af, with a pancake lens at f2.8, I doubt people will have other cameras. at least this camera will be used much more frequently than other cameras. 

Love the EF 40mm f2.8 pancake. It lives on my R5C for basic run n gun and gimbal stuff.

Very true... : ) I have found those APS-C format 16mm & 20mm f/2.8 pancake native lenses both interesting options to also take advantage on Clear Image Zoom/crop modes on Sony FF side too, though.
People are used to criticize the optical performance in the corners but character and form factor are no less priceless aspects to consider especially when handling motion.
 

Here's my take:
Any other lovers of yours? :- )

Love them. Not enough good ones around for full frame though.

Yeah I bought the Canon 28mm cause I really miss the 20mm and 14mm pancake back in the day with m43, 22mm with M50/M6ii, 24mm with 200D and surprisingly there is no AF pancake for Sony FF system.
R8 with 28mm is slightly more depth than my X100Vi Limited. 

It is close to perfect and the image still stands up today as one of the best you can possibly get.
But it would be nice to have even a small update, like:
Less heavy, a bit smaller
Phase-detect AF
In-camera LUT feature
Stacked sensor for 4K/120p

https://www.metabones.com/article/of/Metabones_Introduces_New_EF-MFT_Smart_Adapters_PDAF_Support
Is anyone able to verify if this is working?
I've just tried the ver 4.1 update with the Metabones 'S' version on various lenses and the PDAF indicates it is tracking but doesn't focus. So far I've tried with Sigma 30 f1.4 Art, Canon 50 1.4, Canon 17-55 f2.8 but they all still require me to switch to Single AF. G9ii has also been updated to Ver 2.1
This chap show's its working on the Sigma 18-35mm f1.8

And now Meike has released an 85mm lens for L Mount:
 https://meikeglobal.com/products/meike-85mm-f1-4-auto-focus-lens?variant=45431946903780
Rather "expensive" at $499!!
Hopefully with time it will see a big price drop, and/or a cheaper f1.8 version

S9 in da house.
Cage still on back order…and it really needs it as not having any kind of grip is at the moment my only gripe.
I knew that when I ordered it though and it’s just a matter of time…
Gets it’s first run out a week today and will be my sole video unit for that job as the couple have not booked full ceremony or video coverage/productions, so will be interesting to see if shooting approx 250x 10 second clips can produce any overheating issues.
I suspect it will not, but one of my S5ii’s will be on standby just in case.
Provided it passes that test, it will remain as my lightweight run & gun unit paired with the Sigma 28-70mm f2.8 and Rode Micro. Total weight including cage when it arrives, around 1kg which is nuts for a 6k 30p, no gimbal required, handheld beast.

Actually, the Sigma EF APS-C 18-35 F1.8 lives on my R7.  I only use EF lenses on my R7 for one important reason......because I can use the Meike vND RF to EF adapter with them. It turns the R7 into the perfect video camera. I would lose that with RF lenses. Using EF lenses is great as well because they are so cheap but optically excellent, so if you need something "new" you will save a lot of money vs RF. Yes the RF lenses are sharper but with video that's not necessarily a good thing.
Really the only two lenses I use on my R7 for everything is the EF 24-105 F4 for daylight projects and the Sigma EF 18-35 F1.8 for low light projects.
If I get the R5 II I will probably keep the same setup...EF lenses only with vND for video.  Canon never seems to confirm that the R5 has dual native ISO (800 and 3200) but if the R5II does have dual native ISO then 3200 will mean I can use slower lenses like the 24-70 F2.8 at night which would replace the Sigma 18-35. I also need to research the crop modes some more; I will be interested to see what kind of quality the crop modes provide. If they are equivalent or better than the R7 then I can still use my Sigma 18-35 on the R5II.
I am still not a fan of the R5C, no IBIS is the main deal breaker because I shoot almost exclusively handheld, also the R5C has lower DR than the R5II as evidenced by the omission of CLOG2, and the whole switching entire OS to go from photo to video was never appealing to me either. 

Yup, night and day ;- )