ntblowz

I started with Oly, Pana and Sony (epl1, gh1 and nex 5n all the way to Gh5s/a73/FS5) unlike most ppl who started with Rebel, and now I m sole Canon shooter, go figure! I really take internet with grain of salts especially all the Sony Hype trains on YouTube where they really magnified the plus and barely talk about negatives at all! The basic RF lens is still pretty cheap, and I still uses ef lens (if I cant get work's RF trinity that is). It also funny to me because in the beginning mirrorless users (include me) say you can adapt any lens so that a good advantage, and now it's all ohh it better to use native, adapting lens is bad. Funny how they changing the narrative 🤣 While I still open to use any lens as necessary ha! (Like those fancy anamorphic)

FX30 is not pure raw as it does some processing to output 4.7k Raw from 6k sensor.

8K is definitely nice for greenscreen, especially like shooting veils or woman's hair in genral

If I m shopping for new cam or upgrading from R the R6II and R7 will be a really nice comob... for nearly same price as a single R5. The pre-buffer 3-5s for videos is really handy for wild life video and event work, there are some instances that I wish I press record sooner.

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If you dont need to shoot longer than 30min than R5 will be good as EF lens will work fine with adapter, on APSC mode the R5 supersamples from 17MP so image will be sharper than non HQ FF 4K60P, if you want sharpest 4K then the 4K HQ is definitely nice. For me I mostly use 4K HQ now and occasionally uses 50P or 120P for broll or specific slowmo. Also IBIS is even better after 1.6 which I can totally use handheld in replacement of gimbal on some moving shot, saves time in post or setup.. But if it were for me now I would probably choose either FX30 (if need 4K120P and dont need much photo) or R7 (hybrid) lol.

Good thing we shoot 25p here so 1/50 is perfect lol

No mechanical shutter and continous shooting could be a problem if you want 1 cam does it all type stuff.

That is sad to hear, cancer fu^king sucks, lost my dad to cancer, hope you and your family will go through this dark times

Yeah, and for Panasonic EVA camera too, EF mount is just a bit more limiting.

Anyway back to the topic, looks like no 3rd party lens until 2024 https://www.canonrumors.com/dont-expect-any-third-party-autofocus-lenses-in-the-near-future/

I got the Canon VND but changed the filter to breakthrough X4 VND for best VND on the market. We also got the Canon speedbooster for C70 but once we migrate to all RF lens (24-70 2.8, 28-70 F2, 15-35 f2.8, 70-200 F2.8 etc) it kinda becomes irrevalent.. except just for the EF 35mm F2 IS which we still have pairs well with C70. We just dont buy third party for best compatibility issue, I have a friend who have Sigma 24-105mm Art but it locks his C70 up from time to time.. once he changed to Canon no more lockup. Next upgrade will be looking at V-Raptors and Komodo combo.. at least our RF lens still works.

For few hundreds more you can get used A7S3 though for better image quality 🤔 but less MP for stills. I guess $2500 is the new price point for cropped sensor, would the rumoured R7C be at this price too.

Interesting to see EF 24-70 2.8 II @ 24mm 2.8 is better than EF 24mm 1.4 II at 2.8, I have RF 24-70 2.8 and got RF 24mm 1.8 a while back, on my test RF 24mm is definitely quite sharper on the corner than RF 24-70mm, does that mean RF 24mm is actually shaper than EF 24mm 1.4 II L on corner?! There are 3 tier of RF prime, the L prime the IS prime (24/35/85) and cheap prime (16/50), I do find the 16/50 image quality is not as sharp as IS primes and L zooms.

I don't think any of the cheap lens from Sony or Nikon have lens hood, I have to buy them myself. And they are cheap anyway so no biggie.. What I do find is the lack of lens bag on cheap lens except Pansonic is disheartening, I been using their lens bag to hold accessories and stuff which is quite useful.

You can still adapt cheap EF lens if going on budget. That is what some of the people use on their RF system from what I see, and of course VND adapter is really useful for video. Most of existing accessories still works too so it's not like you are start from scratch again going from EF to RF except if u want to go all RF. And if you want to go Red then all ur RF will work fine on Red camera since they use RF mount as well, totally different story if you are native E mount or Z mount lens user and want to migrate Red camera.

Canon RF 1.8 primes are quite light and compact too (except 85 f2 which is not as compact or light), the RF 50 can be had for $110 used which is a bargain, though I do miss 3rd party's cheap and compact 2.8 zoom but it's not end of the world as I can use 3rd party 2.8 ef lens.

Rf 24-70 2.8 is heavier than 24-70 ii at 900g vs 805g

For the hybrid shooting R5 is defintiely better, but if just mainly for video or birding then R7 is much better value. As I said if I didnt have R5 I would go for R7 without a thought.

Oops it was 4k fine mode he tested, R5 last longer than R7 on video overheating, but chew battery faster.

Firmware 1.6 is much better.. shoot a whole night in 4k50p which I never did before and not a single warning, that also what prompted me to cancel my R7 pre-order. The sole purpose of R7 for me was unlimited 4k50p, but after that youtube test turns out R5 can shoot longer than R7 especially on 4k60p on outdoor daylight.

But if I didn't have R5 I will most certainly go for R7 for sure. For majority of the shoot I did R7 ticks a lot of box, I don't think client will see the difference lol 😆

As R5 user I m disagree on that! R5 Have better photo quality, oversampled 4k60p option (non on r7) and 4k120p which have way better quality than 1080p120. Rolling shutter is also less too. Overheating is a history with v1.6 firmware. But that time limit is a bummer for long session recording options.

PD power delivery is a painful plus for me as it is like switching to EV car, but once you are set you be pretty sweet, atm my monitor can power my MacBook Air and R5, Smallrig Vmount with PD-C can power any light, camera that can use vmount, and R5 or power the macbook, and my mi pro PD-C powebank can also power Atem mini (with the right adapter) for completely mobile liveswitching without the need of portable generator.

Excellent write up, but I think the 18-150 does have IS but u can only switch in the camera as there is no switch on lens (same for ef-m one which I had). I hope Canon can fix the wobble like it did with R5/R6 cause that really improves wide angle on handheld.