Jump to content

Rectilux Core DNA - non-rotating single-focus attachment for anamorphic lenses


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Some frame grabs from a recent shoot with the Rectilux CoreDNA, Schneider ES Cinelux, Contax Zeiss, & Ursa Mini 4.6K.  More frame grabs here:  https://www.flickr.com/photos/seekingheartwood/albums

Quite normal...at least from my experience with DNA or any diopter for that matter. Oval bokeh stretch is often increased. It can be a good trade off when closing down on taking lens to retain sharpne

Gentlemen....start your lawsuits.

Posted Images

Non rotating front element sounds good. I don't get the thread sizes though. 75mm rear, why?

And basically the Rectilux 3FF etc are dead on arrival now?

Looks great, but the 86/75mm threads are problematic - that's not even standard filter ring sizes. I couldn't find any step-up rings to 75mm.

With my 3FF-W set, i have threaded coupling rings from Rectilux that attach to the front of a Kowa Bell & Howell and an ES Cinelux. both are designed to attach to each according to the frontal design of that scope. both coupling rings provide a 75mm outer thread for mounting inside the 3FF-W. so you can use one of these coupling rings to mount the Core DNA to the front of whichever scope you intend to pair it with.

More importantly, I see that the description mentions it has 6 bolt threads at the rear that allow you to align, attach and clamp it onto any lens you want. No step-up (or down) ring required.

for the front thread, it remains to be seen if it would vignette on a wider lens, but a step down from 86mm to 82mm would get you to a common filter size. Again, I have the 3FF-W and use a 95mm to 82mm step-down ring for my Hoya ND filters.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

With regards to the SLR Magic Rangefinder, I have noticed a number of people note that it sharpens up nicely between one to two stops from wide open..  It has also been noted that with regards to pulling focus, this is not a bad thing at all...

I am curious to know how the aperture of the taking lens affects the "look" of the anamorphic bokeh..  I have attached some screen grabs from the movie Heat to try and illustrate my question..

I feel like the bokeh that is as close to a pure oval in shape is the nicest and the bokeh that is more hexagonal in shape is least attractive..

So I feel that the more wide open the taking lens is, the nicer the look to the bokeh but then the harder it may be to keep things in focus...  

Also, with the SLR Magic Rangefinder, if it is really useable a couple of stops down from wide open, does the bokeh turn hexagonal?  Or do you really need to stop down to f8 onwards or so for it to be as hexagonal as illustrated in the second, third, fourth and last Heat examples (one, five and six are examples of nice bokeh)?

 I know there may be a lot of variables but if anyone else has any information on this, it would be greatly appreciated... 

:)

 

Screen Shot 2015-08-23 at 5.25.08 pm.png

Screen Shot 2015-08-23 at 5.26.30 pm.png

Screen Shot 2015-08-23 at 5.27.22 pm.png

Screen Shot 2015-08-23 at 5.58.14 pm.png

Screen Shot 2015-08-23 at 5.56.24 pm.png

Screen Shot 2015-08-23 at 5.36.54 pm.png

Screen Shot 2015-08-23 at 5.31.19 pm.png

Link to post
Share on other sites

yeah, i'm referring to the Rectilux's glass being optically neutral. meaning, any blooming or softness or chromatic aberration is going to be from your scope and taking lens. the Rectilux doesn't degrade the image any further.

i'm all MFT on a GH4 right now. And i use the SLR Magic cine lenses as taking lenses which all have rounded aperture blades. I have a couple Sigma Art prime lenses that have rounded aperture blades, but those are a little big to pair with a scope. But maybe someone else in this thread could chime in with some more FF lens recommendations.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks again for the response, much appreciated!

With regards to the SLR Magic Rangefinder, when people talk about using it a couple of stops from wide open to obtain acceptable sharpness, would it be possible to achieve the same level of sharpness with a slower lens?  An 85mm 2.8 for example?  

Or is there something about having a lens designed to be a 1.4 and then stopping down that improves the sharpness better?  

As mentioned earlier, I don't think I would have an issue with shooting with a slower lens but if stopping down (with a faster prime) was to cause "hexagonal" bokeh, then that is more of an issue :(

Link to post
Share on other sites

I was heading towards getting a Rectilux but ummed and arred over the Rangefinder being a solution for all of my lenses - while I'd need a couple of Rectilux versions. But the tests posted earlier made the Rectilux really shine in comparison to the Rangefinder - so if the DNA can match the Rectilux and be a solution for all of my anamorphics then great. So it's a case of watch that space - am looking forward to seeing some tests. While it's unlikely, it would be good if Andrew would be willing to conduct an objective comparison with the Rangefinder? I know there's a wee bit of tension there but surely all products to the market should be considered equally?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...