Does the A7s' high-ISO capability effectively negate the dof advantage Iâ€™d otherwise get by choosing a Micro 4/3 camera? (Assuming Iâ€™m trying to achieve maximum dof.) In other words, shouldn't I be able to match even the deepest dof I could get with an m4/3, just by stopping-down and boosting the ISOâ€¦and of course changing the lens to match perspective, etc? Here's the thing: I'm bumping up from teeny-chip camcorders with 10x (yes, thatâ€™s double-digits) crop factors, and from this point-of-view, and in light of the A7s, the dof advantage of a 2x crop vs. FF seems almost non-existent. Iâ€™m wondering if I shouldn't skip over the m4/3 sensors and go with the A7s. (Iâ€™m usually in low-light, high-contrast environments, so the appeal of the A7s on other fronts is obvious.) There are a boatload of questions about the still-unreleased A7s, but in terms of dof, does my thinking make sense? Thanks.
I learned a lot lately about shooting with a DSLR but one thing is still confusing me - the frame rate versus the light. Maybe this forum can help me (again) on this one?
A - As a new be on DSLR shooting I was recently thought that when choosing shutter speed I should use twice the frame rate I'm using. Especially when filming indoors with artificial lightning - avoiding the flickering effect. So when shooting at a frame rate of 24 fps I use 1/50 shutter speed and when shooting 50 fps I use 1/100 shutter speed.
B - But on the other hand there are the rules of light. The aperture, the shutter speed and the ISO settings which help you control your light. I red about the stops and how I can compensate them. And I red about the White Balance - all methods to adjust your lightning.
My questions are:
1. - How in earth do these - A rules where I should double my frame rate to set the correct shutter speed work with the light rules - B? I won't have much space to adjust my shutter speed ...
2. - And what is the rule of thumb when setting your lightning - go from adjusting first your aperture, then to shutter speed and then ISO?
3. - And what if you want to freeze (speeding up the shutter speed) or blur your image (lowering shutter speed)?
Or is there no rule of thumb?
It would be awesome if I could finally return to creating visual stories instead of learning all about the technics :P
Here is a little tutorial for getting some extra ISO options on the GH3. It gives you two more ISO values between the ones that came preset with firmware 1.0. You just have to enable them. I'm not sure how widely known this trick is. I keep seeing ISO tests showing off ISO 200, ISO 400...etc. and nothing between. So, I hope this helps!