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There are so many trade-offs here it's impossible to actually discuss all of them in any sensible way, that's why I suggest simply trying them yourself, as the proof is in the pudding. The recommendation of 1/200s is 4 times shorter than 1/50, so the recommendation for 13mm and 11mm lenses are vastly different despite the focal lengths being quite similar. I understand this is a generic recommendation, but that only works for generic people, and I have never met any of those before! I'm assuming your statement about the ILS producing more detail in RAW is about still images? That's a whole other thing than video and these tradeoffs all go completely different since the modern standard for getting sharp images seems to require a shutter of 1/5000 or faster, if I go by the fact that people are photographing action sports and seem to want sub-pixel sharpness instead of their images representing the fact that there is any motion involved at all in the scene. Anyway, I'll leave you to your assessments, but I can tell you that if you shoot video on a potato and upload it to YT at 480p with a 180 shutter and compare that to video shot on the BM 17K URSA with a 45 shutter and uploaded at 8K, there will be people who prefer the 180 shutter just because the motion is so important to them. This is perhaps a drastic example, but a more practical one would be why anyone at all still shoots on 16mm. It is completely technically inferior in literally every regard, and yet, people still pay a huge amount of money for the pleasure.

Sigma FP ii... So far it's not even up on Sigmas website, so no idea about codecs, but it does look like it does a 10-bit LOG internally, so at least one of the "gaps" in the OG seems to have been addressed. It's probably not the camera for me, but definitely respect to Sigma for trying something with the FP and continuing support for the concept.

Interesting. I'd imagine that a shoulder mounted rig would be quite stable in most circumstances, especially from the micro-jitters of smaller camera rigs. I've also found that shutter angle is a bit of a strange thing, where in some scenarios you want a larger angle and other scenarios it doesn't matter that much. Often this was related to how large the motion was in frame and how visible it was (e.g. if it was a hard high-contrast edge or softer). The output quality matters too - when I was testing my GF3, which does (IIRC) 1080p at 12Mbps (or similar) the shutter angle on many shots didn't really matter because the motion on a 180 shutter was comparable to the resolving power of the final image (it looks like quite compressed 720p footage) so for lots of stuff it didn't matter at all!

I guess it's a tradeoff: The more your hands shake during filming the blurrier each frame will be (motion blur) and the more stabilisation that happens after that the more that there will be motion blur in the footage without the associated camera shake and it will just look like random blurring (like the lens AF was pulsing, etc) The longer the shutter the more motion blur there will be in each frame The higher the resolution of the final result the more visible the intermittent blurring will be (ie, it will be more visible if you sharpen the footage on a 4K timeline and it will be less visible if you apply lots of image softening and grain) The higher your standards the more sensitive you will be to random blurring and to shorter shutter speeds For some people they're super sensitive to shutter angle, so are very intolerant to that. If they are also sensitive to blur and are going to sharpen the footage and publish in 4K then they will have to hold the camera a lot steadier to meet their requirements. For people that don't care about shutter angle then just have super-short shutters and you'll have great results. For people that want longer shutters but are going to soften the image a lot in post, or will be using much softer lenses, then they can afford to have shakier shooting because the random blurring will be far less visible. For people that don't care about the motion in the image then they can be happy despite the fact that other people would be very unhappy. In this sense it's impossible to know how you'll find something by just listening to other people. Tonnes of people think that some of the modern Sony and Zeiss lenses are "soft" and I think they're completely insane, but that's just different taste. In this case you probably have no idea how shaky your hands are compared to the next person, and there are no metrics that we can use to compare. From my experience of OIS and how I shoot, I'd get FAR FAR sharper images from the GX800 than the ILS, because the amount of camera shake I would have is easily enough to make the frames blurry but less than most OIS lenses can compensate for. In this sense it's not about the camera specs, it's about OIS vs not.

It's stabilisation after the exposure is made, so it will be subject to the same blurring as in the video I posted above. Depending on how much stabilisation is required and what your shutter angle is, it might be visible or might not. I'd highly encourage you do some testing to work out if it will meet your quality requirements.

Great looking images but the EIS isn't a substitute for IBIS or OIS - you can see in this footage the image gets blurry at random times... I think this mostly kills this camera for me at least. If you're hand-holding then either you use short-shutters, or you use 180 shutter but need to stabilise BEFORE the exposure, rather than stabilising AFTER when the frames are already blurry.

You don't like security cameras? No need to be insecure...

Apparently the Metabones SB accepts USB power in, it can be powered by the camera itself, and it can power a lens and has a wheel that can change the aperture of the lens.. and because it has power that means lens OIS will work too! @newfoundmass this isn't a MFT solution but it does allow some electronic lenses to be used - not sure if you have a metabones and other lenses lying around perhaps?

It's great to hear that the people doing real work have taken the time to build a custom look for themselves. Just another reminder than the muppets on social media aren't really representative of how real people use cameras.

Sounds like a capable setup! I'd imagine you just setup the camera with the right codec and frame rate and exposure time, then you're just using the lens and filters to expose and focus? That was how I was shooting with my BMMCC and it was great, not having to navigate camera menus or anything. I bought a bulk lot of drink can holders (which are just fabric covered foam) and found they're great for putting lenses in to protect them from each other, so if you want to upgrade your paper towels that might be an option. You could super-glue them together if you wanted to make something with a bit of shape, sort-of a very DIY custom camera-insert.

Awesome! So often people just talk about gear but I find myself spending far more time thinking about the camera/lens/filters combo and how it interacts with the subjects and techniques I use when shooting. I'm keen to hear how you use the kit when out and about shooting in uncontrolled and difficult situations.

If watching camera YT has taught me anything, it's that there's no such thing as bad attention. In fact, if you can stir up some haters, then your videos will get more "engagement" and you'll do better in the algorithm. The two 'personalities' on YT who keep starting arguments with each other are all the better off for the controversy. So I say... post away! Anyone who brings some experience and/or some nuance to the table will definitely be ahead of the pack, especially for camera-related content.

What lenses are you using for the ILS, what rigging / supports are you using, and how are you finding them to shoot on the street?

BMMCC still has the magic in it, so definitely worth getting to know it and how to get the best of it. I always shoot Prores on it, rather than RAW, but my node tree was: 1) CST from BM Film Gen 1 to Davinci Intermediate 2) Grade in Log space 3) CST from Davinci Intermediate to rec709-A The default colour science is quite film-like and has a pretty heavy "look" already in it, but it's worth experimenting with different processes to see what you like. As I'd imagine you're shooting RAW, you'll also be using the RAW panel which I can't give advice on, except try different things and see what you like. There are "correct" colour spaces etc, but in colour, if it looks good then it is good, so just try stuff and see what you can find. Maybe @mercer can give some advice on making the BM really sing?

Definitely agree.. especially considering that if you really want to push the image around, you can convert it to LOG and make changes and then convert it back again.