mnewxcv

I've been doing some testing as well recently. I have found that there is a huge reduction in noise if shot a certain way, pretty much the opposite of what thought some years ago. Instead of exposing for highlights and bringing up shadows in post, if you use the RGB boost and expose more for shadows and bring them down in post, the resulting image is largely noise free. Watch out for blowing out the highlights.

I just bought an nx500. How can I test?

Good point. Why is 8.33ms the magic number and not 16.66? Unless I'm doing my math wrong. Edit: and wouldn't you know I did my math wrong. 8.33ms it is ?

user Otto K on another forum posted the following: so it would seem you were pretty much on the money with your estimate. That is the only info I have been able to find on nx500 rolling shutter, though interesting that the 2.5k is so low, and also that the 1080p is significantly worse than the nx1 (7.9ms according to this thread: http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?303559-Measuring-rolling-shutter-put-a-number-on-this-issue! )

I remember reading that the 4K of the NX500 had superior rolling shutter to the NX1, and I believe to other cameras as well. I cannot find a thread or the source of this information though. Can anyone cite a scientific source (controlled test on a camera site) that reveals this? I know the 1080p and 2.5k footage is marginally worse than the NX1 1080p.

was this shot in 1080 or 4k->1080?

the guide really focuses on GammaDR settings, including a lut to convert out of camera footage to something more gradeable. The NX500 does not shoot GammaDR. Still some valuable info, but it is catered to the NX1. Andrew can correct me if I'm wrong. OP, I want to say I have seen the green tint issue posted before, but I may be thinking of solid green frames in footage. I have definitely heard of the NX1 doing weird things occasionally. I've had about 4 NX1s and 4 NX500s in the past 5 years and have never come across it.

Interested in price of NXL plus..... Great work regardless. Have AI generated porn ready to send.

sorry if this is the wrong place to post this, but where are people selling their resolve keys? I don't see any for sale on ebay and I would like to buy one from someone who bought a BMCC4k but already had resolve/didn't want it.

the free version on windows always had h.265 issues which were resolved (ha) in the paid studio version long ago. Not sure if the new davinci resolve version has it working in both versions.

you are the first person I heard mentioning setting tint/blue-yellow for color temp to avoid white balance shift. Very valuable post for those who have stated white balance shift occurs when set to a K value. Will surely be doing this.

I don't know for sure, but I would think you could get a remote shutter compatible with the nx500 and then use 3 of these, and plugging into the 4 cameras.

what is an OCC profile? ICC? ? edit: you said OOC. I definitely don't know what that means...

I'll wait for the 4k version. This is 2019 for God's sake.

using a samsung nx1 with the 16-50s lens. As for shooting in public, I would be very cautious and mainly shoot on roads without much traffic. Mostly looking for cinematic shots of vehicle passing other vehicles, coming around sweeping turns, etc. Back road stuff. I know if plenty of roads that are safe for this. The main reason I want to go gimbal is to be able to add a little motion to the shot with pan and tilt. I've also considered shooting 15fps and converting to 24 to make things appear faster.

I do like the camtree g51. I will keep an eye out on ebay for one. Not much action indeed. At least for me, I am looking to do something to track 'high speed' action, at least road speed. I am unsure as of now how my gimbal will keep up with the vibrations and shocks, but here is a basic design I came up with. It involves a simple bike carrier which holds the gimbal in place, and some off the shelf hardware to mount it to the front as well.

Has anyone ever made a rig for a car to film either in front of/behind the vehicle, or the occupants/interior? I am planning to build some sort of rig that attaches to my vehicle to work with a gimbal to film vehicles in motion. If anyone has ever done anything like this, please post of some photos!

ah that mode, gotcha. Will give it a try sometime for night photography.

if you are using S mode, which shutter speed and iso do you select? And what is your metering mode set to: spot, center weighted, or multi?

I am going to rest my brain from this for a bit, but I think so far it makes sense to use 1.99 whenever lighting is good to excellent. It doesn't love the shadows in low light footage, in which case using 1.00 works just fine. Perhaps .85 is good for low light detail without many bright lights, though the jury is still out.

16-235. I just tried 0-255 as well in some random tests as well as messing with master black. The rabbit hole is getting deeper. You know how we said if you go negative on the RGB values it starts to clip highlights? Well that's true and it isn't. For instance, if you shoot at .50RGB, highlights clip at about 92 IRE. But if you expose to have your highlights under 92IRE, they don't clip. So my idea of shooting <1.00RGB values and raising in post could possibly be done. It seems the lower you go the less DR you get at a certain point, but I think .50 is still roughly the same number of stops. Also I did a shot of the bulb at 0.05RGB and the bulb had nice exposure, though everything else in the shot was black at base ISO. As we know boosting ISO would be useless since at that low of a rgb value the IRE cap would be very low as well. Taking the same shot with RGB boost at base ISO, image is still under exposed, but it can come up somewhat (there are limits obviously, I was shooting 1/4000 and base ISO to expose bulb, the rest of the footage was uselss, but there was some info there). However, the difference between -15 and +15 master pedestal was obvious when doing this extreme test. Lifting the shadows on the -15 MP shot, colors on the color checker were distorted and wrong. While MP +15 lacked contrast and DR, the colors were present and much more accurate.

Yes, I changed aperture 3 1/3 increments (so 1 stop), both shots were ISO100, 1/50.

I would say that is evidence of more detail in the highlights. The white on the color checker is supposed to be the brightest thing in your shot, but when using 1.99 it seems to pick up possible reflections from the light on the plastic casing of the color checker which since they are more reflective than the white show up. I believe this information is normally lost in the curve, but consists of especially bright highlights. Here is another example (this time I got the exposure right on both). You can clearly see the histogram extends further into the highlights and with a more gradual curve (almost linear at the end) and on the waveform you can see on the first clip IRE reaches maybe 102/103, while on the second clip it is probably closer to 107-108 where the light bulb is.You can also see the opposite happening in the shadows, especially on the histogram. The middle of the shot is very similar, but the ends show the biggest difference. So it shows that that info up above 103 IRE just was not present in the other footage. It is new information in the video.

not really sure. No motion blur but perhaps something moved a little (I rest my grey card on the color checker between shots to set exposure). It may be 1/3 of a stop difference though looking at it. In terms of the histrogram though, I'm more referring to the fact that the top highlight roll off is basically a round curve, while the second one (1.99) starts dropping and halfway juts out and is more of a line than a curve.

based on how much info there is (intensity on histogram) and the curve from mids to high or low with saturation turned to 0. Shown below is 1.00 vs 1.99. Look at the curve blending mids with highs and lows. A question in my mind right now is is there any benefit to shooting 0.85, exposed for highlights so theyre not blown out, and lifting in post to reveal hidden shadow info, or is there any benefit to shooting 1.99, exposing for shadows, and dropping in post to reveal highlight info. Perhaps it's just a wash.