Jump to content

CyclingBen

Members
  • Content Count

    85
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About CyclingBen

  • Rank
    Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. In full auto mode you have to use the default Samsung settings. You can use "P" / Program mode and use the custom color profiles and still have the camera auto set the shutter speed, F stop and ISO.
  2. I’m not using the shutter priority mode, sorry that was possibly confusing. The S or Samsung special mode on the dial, it has a whole bunch of speciality shot options like the light trace and the baseball swing detection.
  3. I haven’t used the NX1 much for personal use. Now that it’s been liberated from work I’ve been testing it out on one of my passions, shooting the northern lights and a few days ago tried the light trails mode. Whatever voodoo Samsung put in this camera makes it shoot perfect northern light photos with this setting, without having to do anything but point the camera in the right direction. However I cannot find a way to make the intervolameter in the ‘s’ mode work at all. Do any of you know if there is a menu I’m missing or if there is a work around? Since the NX1 will automatically make a 4K video in camera I’d love to set it up every night for the next month while the aurora activity is high and hopefully capture the lights without really having to think about it. i can’t recommend using the light trails mode enough for the northern lights (or southern lights coming up in a few months). Every and I mean every shot is perfectly exposed and the colors are incredible.
  4. For my work at a US based cycling company in Waterloo Wisconsin our team uses the X-T3 for pretty much all of our road cycling and cyclocross shoots since it came out. I don't even remember the last time any of us picked up the C100 mkII, even as a back up to the back up NX1 (we also use an X-H1). The X-T3 is what I would recommend, especially if you're looking for great color out of camera and minimal grading. Kisaha had another good recommendation for the Panasonic if you don't want an interchangable lens system. The big downside is the smaller sensor. I could see the Canon 1dxii if you're going to be doing a ton of bad weather and mud shooting because that thing is a beast that just won't quit. Otherwise, save some money on the body and get the X-T3 with the 10-24 for wide shots of riders coming over the crest of a hill, the 50-200 or 50-140 for tight zoomed shots and maybe even the 18-135 if you need the best stabilization Fuji offers for OIS lenses.
  5. Discoloration on the focus lens, works great and both elements are excellent. $100 shipped
  6. Nice work @mnewxcv. I really didn't think the OLED changed anything either until I just started willy nilly changing every single setting I could think of. It's not a 100% perfect match, but very close. Thanks for doing the more complete test.
  7. Yes normal gamma. I also thought the OLED setting only applies to the monitor but it seems to shift saturation in the actual recording to my eye and also to the monitors in FCPX. For the Hue, I had never adjusted it prior to trying to match the two cameras, but found the eterna profile to shift much cooler than the NX1. I’m sure the same could be accomplished with altering the white balance as well. I think the Fuji cameras have comparable white balance to the NX1 but it trends a little cooler. overall I love the match I found. I haven’t tried matching in premiere or davinci yet. I’d use it on a job for work if I had to.
  8. Hi Gals and Guys. I've been trying to match the NX1 to the Fuji Eterna profile in camera for a couple weeks and think I finally have it dialed in. Here are my settings: OLED color - ON Picture Wizard - Custom Color Green .95 Saturation -3 Sharpness -10 Contrast 0 Hue -6 Using FCPX and color match I'm able to get it to match perfectly in a click or two. If anyone has other ideas or better settings I'd be happy to try them and post results.
  9. CyclingBen

    Fujifilm X-T30?

    The X-T30, due to its smaller size (thus smaller heat sinks) and only having a single UHS-I card slot, video specs are affected. 4K 30fps @ 200Mbps instead of 60fps 400Mbps on the X-T3, no H.265 (HEVC) so no internal 4:2:0 10-bit (8-bit only), 10 min limit on 4k video, 15 min limit on HD 1080. There is 4:2:2 10-bit, but it is for external recording only (although no time limit) You're right, it's not Canon, but for Fuji it's pretty lame.
  10. CyclingBen

    Fujifilm X-T30?

    Wow, they went Canon on this, crippling the bit rate so much. I'm kind of surprised to be honest. For video it seems like the firesale on the X-H1 is a better buy as long as you're not using an external recorder. Did a wedding for a friend a few months ago (god they suck, props to anyone who does them for a living especially @thebrothersthre3) and finally edited the footage between my X-T3, Em10III and NX1... the X-t3 footage with eterna either in 10 bit or 8 bit just blows the other footage out of the water. Little to no color correction and just amazing skin tones. If you need a 10 bit camera capable of excellent skin tones... get an X-T3 if you don't need 10 bit, X-H1. The X-t30 seems to be for photographers.
  11. Douche your nose with it... I haven’t had an honest to goodness laugh out loud moment in a while. Well done webrunner
  12. As far as letting the solution sit, on the bottle (I looked online) it said for fungus to let it sit for 10 minutes (same as for killing MERSA). If I were to use it I would probably follow those instructions, the next time I go to the store I will ask him. Looks like the main ingredient is Hypochlorous Acid. Maybe there is another product in your area that has it in there. Otherwise I’d be happy to ship you some, though it’s -33 Celsius here today without the wind chill...
  13. I had success using florescent lights going straight into the lens and putting some aluminum foil on the other side of the lens to reflect the UV back up through the rear element to remove some light fungus from the inside of a Super Tak, I also opened up and cleaned a Rokkor lens that had significant fungus with rubbing alcohol, a week long light treatment and then opening it back up to clean up the dried fungus. The owner of the camera shop in my town recommended using this cleaner https://www.amazon.com/CleanSmart-Toy-Disinfectant-Spray-Bacteria/dp/B011ANDC78 which is normally used to clean kids toys. I haven't tried it yet, but he's restored hundreds of lenses.
×
×
  • Create New...