MountneerMan

a6500 has a 30p crop too IIRC. No crop is likely 4k24p only.
edit: Phil A beat me to it
I think everyone is overlooking one of the most significant changes - since the Nex5 people have been complaining about the shitty placement and tiny record button, Sony has FINALLY changed it.
 

Personally I use proxies in premiere pro. I import the native H.265 files and create H.264 proxies for editing.
Works great. takes quite a bit of time up front to trans code but you can edit while it works in the back ground. For the most part I just import before I goto bed and let it chooch while I am sleeping.
Added bonus, when you wake up to a completed trancoding job you literal roll out of bed feeling like you have already accomplished something for the day. lol

Updated link below
http://woobox.com/f8ugnj/irw3gl
 

http://photorumors.com/2017/04/07/two-years-later-samsung-is-done-with-digital-cameras/

I know you can do it. Same optical quality of nx-L, but inverse logic. 50-150 would become a 100-300 f5.6, which is not so bad.

hi guys, thanks for viewing the film. I don't use special settings. I prefer to use normal gamma with same old richardo's settings for a flat outcome image and i try as much as i can to expose to the right, preventing highlights from over-exposure. In post i usually tweak the contrast and exposure depending on the look i want to achieve. MOre or less this is my workflow.
I am using an ND filter as i am shooting in the bright sun and you need one to get the shutter right. So i am using a variable ND filter, don't no the brand exactely.
Cheers.

great work.
I think you forgot to post your setting in the thread titled "Your ideal NX1 Settings" lol.
There is alot of high DR shots in there that were handled really well.

hey guys, please let me share with you my last project shot on nx1 entirely. I have spent a month in Africa and this is what i got left of it, hope you'll enjoy it. Any comment is more than welcome :
 
 

The rumor mill keeps turning.
I call BS as well.

The rumor mill keeps turning.
I call BS as well.

The rumor mill keeps turning.
I call BS as well.

Bought my VCT-14 plate on eBay virtually New for $160...will work equally well with an Alexa as my set up and last a lifetime...
You can see how the adjustments are done fore and aft to keep the camera and lens and all else like a mount or monitor you may hang...this setup works easily between 10 & 30 lbs.

Personally I use arca swiss quick release plates on my cameras so what I did was I got this arca swiss clamp and mounted it to the top of my Glidecam with a stack of alternating large metal washers and large neoprene gasket washers (both of witch can be purchased from any hardware store for a few cents each).
The key is to alternate the metal and neoprene washers so no two metal surfaces touch.
Metal on metal = low coefficient of friction
Metal on neoprene = high coefficient of friction = harder to slip and spin.
The other benefit of the neoprene is it compresses slightly so if you torque down the 1/4-20 screw to take all the compression out of the neoprene it acts sort of like a lock washer and helps maintain the torque.
I have though about using some SA glue as well but have yet had any issues with my current set-up so have not done so yet.

I used to have that glidecam.  You just need a spacer to lift the camera a bit, yeah?  Suggest going to a hardware store and pluck around in the bins for anything that'll lift your cam enough and then get a bolt to fit.
You could get a machinist to fabricate something for you in a matter of minutes as well.
Or, honestly, looks like a Manfrotto quick release plate might give you enough.  If not, it's pretty easy to add a spacer to the Manfrotto receiver too. 

Shot this for the tourism board a few months ago, different edit for them, but I had so much footage that I just threw this together. Trying to work on my social media subsciptions
 
 

I have been working with a digital logic analyzer and an Arduino nano.  Via this setup I can set the aperture and move the focus to min and max so far.  So the setup is
For gathering data: Canon Camera + EF extension tube with AF contacts + lens, I have wired the extension tube to sample the data via a USB digital logic anlyzer. 
For testing my control: Arduino Nano + EF extension tube with AF contacts + lens (no body for now).  So the aperture and focus max and min are working as controlled by the nano. 
Next step: NX camera + NX extension tube with AF contacts + Arduino Nano  and use the digital logic analyzer to find the focus commands from the camera, also spoof the lens data.  Here is where ihkim's work will be a big help with the lens initialisation, to hopefully successfully spoof the lens in a way the camera accepts. 
Final case: NX camera signal to contacts on close end EF -> NX adapter, these wired to the nano, then from the nano to the contacts on the other side of the adapter, then to the lens.  Then replace the adapter with wired NX-L for focal reduction. 
Stabilization seems to work automatically for the lenses I've tried, but I think the EF-M mount lenses don't have physical switches, but these are not among the lenses we're adapting. 
My 10k offer still stands for anyone that can provide native-like camera driven AF.  The Apurture DEC does not do this, as I understand it doesn't listen to the camera half at all, in which case I'm only a few buttons away from doing the same with the nano (add button to repeat change focus command one way, another the other way, same for aperture).  Wifi would be a bunch of work though, but while nice it isn't on my own wish list.  The nano will allow more programmatic control, 2,3,4, etc... focus locations could be toggled, it's mostly a matter of adding physical inputs and writing logic into the nano code to handle them.  As I look back to your image of the upcoming system, the contacts are going to go just from the Apurture to the lens, I also need to get to the camera contacts somehow.  What I need is camera -> Apurture and Apurture -> lens (but with my nano instead of the Apurture).  With the current NX-L design I'm not sure how to get at the camera contacts, running wires even with a hole drilled through isn't great because of the rotating design, so they can be stressed or break if it rotates too far.  Solutions that come to mind would complicate the design quite a bit further (e.g. concentric rings for each contact on that part that rotates). 
That would be great, can you PM me the address, I didn't keep the packaging they arrived in so I lost the return address. 

Heres my latest entries :
 
 
This last one is still private, its only due next week, but since this is a specialty forum, there should be no harm. Everything shot on the NX1+16-50s 2.8, and graded with my own Vellichor luts, available for purchase here if any of you wants to have a look - https://sellfy.com/p/HNAk/

Hope you guys enjoy :D

I've been really inspired by some of the work done on this camera...Just wanted to create a topic where any NX1 owners can upload their latest films...If you like, feel free to share anything you think helped you get the image you arrived at...lenses used, LUTs used, etc.  
Here is my latest.  Rokionon 35mm and Sigma 18-35mm lenses.  Osiris LUTs.
 

It's all Samsung NX1 (except for a couple of  drone shots) with the Kinoseed bitrate hack (180mbs), using Andrew's Gamma DR profile. Lenses: Samsung 16-50 S, Rokinon 12mm and 85mm, plus some lensbaby. I used a couple LUTS by luts.iwltbap.com and FilmConvert in post. Filmed in 4K converted to ProRes for editing in Premiere. Yes, I know Premiere supports H.265, but I've had nothing but problems with H.265 files since the last update. Exported to 1080.

What's it about? 
What do you call a ghost town that still has people living there? This documentary is a peek into the world of some folks that live in what others call a "ghost town." Haunted kewpie doll, boot fence, dream cowboys, custom caskets, and stories of healing are all there in the Dreamworld.

look at loss of fatal highlight detail as ISO increases. Not great test as it was not under low light, so highlight loss could be simple blowout or NR.
 

Mountneer, I generally agree. As to dxo score, it's very much influenced by the high iso score, which is obviously better for 1dx being a latest gen full frame camera (vs 2014 apsc on nx1).
 
I rather think that the difference even on dxo is really small, considering the format and price difference among the two.

https://***URL removed***/forums/post/57361842
 
You'll find all the info from ihkim. You can also contact him directly, he is a very nice person.

For a 150mm or greater tele-photo, I wouldn't use a speed booster like the NXL. The wider field of view would be counter productive to getting longer reach... and at that focal length shallow DOF isn't a problem.
If you REALLY want the NXL on a long tele-photo with vignetting, medium format lenses would be a sweet solution. To learn more about those, check out this old blog post by Frank Glencairn: https://frankglencairn.wordpress.com/vintage-zeiss-glass-on-modern-cameras/

Do you try to shot in 640x480 in vga or mjpeg to see if the problem is the bitrate?