valid

Hey guys,
I'm looking for a hypergonar 16 in good condition - any of the 5 models, apart from the 6th one with the concentric rings.
Let me know if you have anything... thanks!

Over at BMCuser, someone posted that they dropped their Mini 4.6k, it landed on the handle & cracked the casing, causing damage to the mother board inside - BM wouldn't repair it! However, it does produce lovely images, if used by someone who knows what they're doing...
I personally think that they'll keep going, but will revert to smaller packages (box like cams) - if they can figure out how to heat sink in a smaller package (the same user took his Mini apart & the majority of the camera is dedicated to the heat sink module). You've got to remember that BM cameras are budget cameras & they will have to cut corners in quality/build to keep the prices competative & low.
You've got to admit that the images coming from these cameras can be awesome & I hope that they struggle through, just like RED did at the beginning. I believe that in another 10yrs time, we'll be talking about BM cameras in the same breath as RED & maybe ARRI.
The biggest problem that they have at the moment is lack of user knowledge & this is due to the low price of some of their cameras - for every great user, there are at least 10 numpties whose lack of filming knowledge gets exposed as soon as they pick one up. They are not DSLRs & shouldn't be mentioned in the same sentence, let alone compared to them.
If you don't get this, then DO NOT buy one, because you're probably the type of person that hasn't the time or patience to learn how to use them.
Just look at all the [stupid BS] hate aimed at the Pocket camera: poor battery life, bad screen etc... 45mins time limit for battery & SD card whilst filming PR. The screen is by a country mile not the worst i've ever used & I seem to manage very well nailing focus - I wear glasses, which adds an extra dimension of difficulty to the whole thing. 
And these same people talk about wanting to replicate a filmic image, just imagine them using a film camera that has a max filming time of 12mins - people with no skill or patience to learn will complain about anything if you let them, it's how they cover up for their short comings. It's a crying shame, but it's their loss........

Teflon replacement collars for the guide screws is a good start. (Replacing the brass collars with Teflon ones will reduce friction noise when focusing) - I also reworked the internal focus mechanism to have a better strength and tolerance - that eliminated wobble. A bit too many other details and tweaks to list here without hijacking the thread topic.

Unfortunately, Ebrahim, when you chose to steal from other people, you risked ruining your reputation.
I think this thread should remain on the forum, but locked, onced the matter is resolved. You are only refunding these people (if you actually do) because of the pressure brought upon you by this thread. If the OP had not started it, you might have been tempted to scam more people, given your previous success.
You are a criminal because you have stolen from (at least) three people and you are a liar because you have lied repeatedly and continuously. These are not desirable characteristics for a Dentist starting out on his career and now future employers will be able to see how untrustworthy you are.
You brought this upon yourself and risked a huge amount.

I'm with you on this Bioskop.Inc ,
this is International criminal activity with no regard what so ever for EOSHD members , not to mention 3 years of lies on this forum ,
and suddenly everyone is friends again and all is ok .  come on guys  Its not OK ! wake up !
ES is a very sophisticated criminal who stole from EOSHD members and they need paying back asap. We have to wait and see if that EVER happens.
 
Be very very cautious about anything said by ES its not all of a sudden all true.
 

remove from the metal housing and wrap the element in masking tape
draw a line down the middle
drill lots of holes along the line using a glass/ceramic drill bit - like an arrow head shaped drill bit - make sure the elements are in a shallow pool of water to aid cooling/lubrication during drilling.  don;t apply pressure - let the drill do the work.  high speed, use a battery powered drill for safety - 230volts and water don't go!
using a tile cutting fret saw slowly cut along the line - the drilled holes will mean you have less material to physically cut through
using very high quality 'wet and dry' glass paper from 240 grit down to around 1000grit to grind the edge flat.  the courser the paper, the more likely you are of chipping the edge so go steady when using he course grades.  grind 'edge ways' not 'across' to avoid chipping
once flat, apply a very fine chamfer to the cut edge using 1000 grit wet so remove any tiny chips.
thin down some enamel matte black paint and apply to the ground edge - thinning will mean the paint natirally absorbs into the frosted ground edge
dry in oven for an hour at 90degrees

 
since the cheaper single element diopters from vivitar are crown glass they are less prone to chipping  start on the diopter you;re less likely to actually use so you can practice.
 
DO NOT attempt this with cemented doublets!  you'll think you;re doing really well, then when that drill bit gets through the first layer and hits the second it'll shatter.

Note, at the time the Isco patent was issued in 1970 the law was that the lifetime of a patent was 17 years from the date of issue.  When a patent expires the time-limited right of the assignee to a monopoly also expires, and the technology becomes part of the public domain.  So, its been completely legal to manufacture and sell Iscorama style systems since 1987, almost 30 years now!

How does it perform when the taking lens is wide open? Is it soft? CA?

I am getting a bunch of questions about this recently and am planning to make a video guide about the mod. Will psot it here for sure.

What do you think about this? There is nothing irreversible done to the lens at all, but now infinity is kinda there. My follow focus is a little stiff so it's slightly shaky at times.
It is hard to understand if I did hit infinity or not though, or maybe I'm already paranoid.

A short sci-fi film I directed. Shot on BMCC + a lot of CG/vfx. Filmed in London, China, and Hong Kong.
 
any feedback welcome :-)

A short sci-fi film I directed. Shot on BMCC + a lot of CG/vfx. Filmed in London, China, and Hong Kong.
 
any feedback welcome :-)

Simply amazing. I know there's been a bit of hullabaloo about Rectilux vs Rangefinder, but I'm shooting 4K on NX1, and the Rangefinder holds up great. It's actually my taking lenses that I'm finally starting to give more thought to, now that I can focus the darn thing.
Does anyone know if Apple's Motion could do this desqueezing stuff? 

yeah. the problem is not the desqueeze itself - it's the lens distortion of the anamorphic. It's quite a pronounced sphere at the edges, so they become 'compressed' more, if that makes sense? Depends on what software you are using, but I've had good results (not perfect but close) in Nuke - using a checkerboard grid that I filmed as a calibration tool, and then re-straightening it...

Trust us when we say Redstan. It may be tempting to cheap out, but seriously. Proper alignment is of utmost importance with anamorphics, and when it comes to alignment, Redstan is just the best. Accept no substitute.

Redstan. http://www.redstan.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=68 (this includes front clamp too, but maybe you can message to find one with just the back, if that's what you want)
PS - 16s has a 39mm back thread, not 52mm

Optics is mostly simple, with some occasional complexity thrown in to make it interesting.  In fact, I've almost completely forgotten all the fancy math I learned after high school, since by and large all the math you need to know to be a successful lens designer is geometry, trigonometry, and a bit of algebra.
In your case, assuming that the anamorphic portion is working at infinity (i.e., parallel light in and parallel light out) the aperture of the optical system is determined by the diameter of the iris diaphragm in the taking lens *unless* there is some other limiting aperture in the system.  Imagine that you take a pin and poke a tiny hole in a large piece of aluminum foil.  Next, open the f/1.2 taking lens wide open and place the aluminum foil in front of your Rectilux so that the pinhole is centered on the optical axis.  Clearly, in this case the f/# of your lens system is determined by the diameter of the pinhole and not by the diameter of the taking lens' iris diaphragm.  So we would say that the pinhole is the limiting aperture in your lens system.
In your case the clear aperture of the back of the anamorphic section is 43mm in diameter (assuming it is round and not rectangular).  This means that the collimated on-axis beam of light exiting your anamorphic section cannot exceed 43mm in diameter, and may be less if any of the other optical surfaces in the Rectilux or your anamorphic group are limiting apertures.  The entrance pupil diameter of your 85mm f/1.2 taking lens (most likely 1/3 stop faster than f/1.4, or f/1.2599 in reality) is 85/1.2599 = 67.5mm.  Since 67.5mm is bigger than 43mm you are underfilling the entrance pupil of the taking lens.  As a consequence, you could stop down the taking lens until its entrance pupil is reduced to 43mm, and have no impact on the actual f/# of the system.  In your case, the actual maximum f/# would be f/(85/43) = f/1.98 ~ f/2, and not f/1.2.  Again, this assumes that the limiting aperture of the system is the rear aperture of the anamorph, and not some other surface in the Rectilux or the anamorph.  If either of the latter is true then your true f/# would be slower than f/2.

Dibs on your Centavision!  hahahahahahahaha.  I know you said you would be buried with it in your coffin, so I suggest you arrange for a two man coffin, I'll be buried alive with your corpse, so I can spend a few hours with the lens (before the air runs out)  

No association with REDSTAN, other than a very happy customer!
I previously ordered a Vid Atlantic "kit".
When it arrived, I immediately noticed the set screws for the scope are metal.
Bummer.   
Shrug, proceeded to get it to mount, no success,
it doesn't fit either my Sankor 16F, nor my Kowa Bell & Howell.
I was really bummered out now.
Received the REDSTAN clamp, the first obvious thing when opening the package,
it is a PROPER qualitiy machined solution, NOT a hacked extension tube, as with the Vid Atlantic.
The quality difference is night and day.
Installing the REDSTAN clamp to my Kowa B&H, it was a perfect fit from the start.
And NO metal scope adjustment set screws!
I would think that most people here already know this information.
Just thought I'd share my experience for others who don't.
 

DOF is amazing. Are you sure the blown red channel is just your grading - and not an exaggeration of the BMPCC's infrared problem in some way?

Nikon Nikkor 50 1,4 non Ai, very sturdy front mount, and my copy is sharper than razor

I also have a 50mm f/1.7 (MMJ), which I quite like. Have you considered the f1.4 version of this lens as I hear that it has a much better built quality than its little brother?

Out of those lenses you mentioned; Leica Summicron R 2/50, all day long. I have the black 2 cam version from 1968. It's small, heavy, beautifully constructed and solid! It's sharp wide open and background melts away. Something very filmic about how it renders. I use a replacement Leitax ef mount (easily the best I've used) and it has a series VI filter thread which translates to the unusually small 43.5mm so you'll need a 43.5 > 52 step up ring for your clamp. Something very emotionally magnetic about the lens, it's precious although certainly not delicate. It's a Leica, remember. It will vignette though on s35 unless you crop or you're on m4/3. I'll be testing it with a Moller Ananmorphot 32/2 at the end of the month when Rectilux arrives.
Another absolute favourite of mine is the legendary Rokkor 58mm f1.2. It flares beautifully on its own: https://instagram.com/p/3mibRQypi_/?taken-by=liamlumiere 
I have tested it with my Kowa B&H and compliments the orange and green flares of the scope. If you want that classic cinema look, minolta Rokkors are they way to go. They all match up well so no headaches in post when you change focal lengths. Again I have the solid Leitax replacement mount. Beautiful classic look with unforgettable bokeh.
If you want something more edgy and contrasty check out the Olympus OM 50's. The are sharp and should marry well with the Moller's blue flares for that sifi look.  
 

The front element diameter doesn't have any direct affect on sharpness in the sense that you can always conjure up a counter example.  For instance, I could add a foot diameter filter to the front of any taking lens and the sharpness would hardly be effected at all.  Again, what really matters a lot is the entrance pupil diameter, which is the diameter of the image of aperture stop as viewed from the front of the lens.
Of course, there are limits to the sharpening effect of using a shorter focal length taking lens.  If you go too short then you'll encounter aberrations and/or vignetting in the outer parts of the image.

The Focus Module is very sharp if you know how to use it
 


Regardless of the FM, Rect or Rangefinder, sharpness and performance is dependent on your 1) taking lens 2) anamorphic lens.  As far as the Rangefinder goes, stopping down 1 - 2 stops helps with sharpness.  In the pictures below, I shot at F4, stopping down 1 stop.