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sudopera

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Posts posted by sudopera

  1. Deep crushed 100% blacks look video-ish to me, raised blacks look too instagram-ish to me, in-between is adequate, but more towards black than gray, say in a scale from 0 black to 100 grey, somewhere 40. It's a precise point you need to find YOURSELF for you TASTE. 

    There's an egyptian saying that goes something like: if it weren't for the variety of people tastes, no product would be sold. It ryhmes on Arabic though soooo, XC10?

    ...what?

    Crushed "blacker than black" is an important part of the film look. When the light falls off in film, it drops off fast and hard into inky blackness. Go watch any great movie shot on film and you'll see what I'm talking about. 

    Murky grey-black screams hipster video, and "don't crush the shadows" has always been a broadcast mantra with nothing at all to do with narrative filmmaking. 

    I believe you are both on the same page here really... I think Ebrahim what you really think(correct me if I'm wrong) is that some people tend to crush not just deepest blacks but shadows also so they lose all information in shadows and that looks like crap. I agree that the deepest blacks are mostly crushed in movies but the shadows are just pulled down a little to obtain more contrast but not so much to loose all information, what is the point in high dynamic range then if you throw away all that information in the grade.

  2. I would like to see a direct comparison between A7R II and A7S with the same picture profile(Slog2 with the same LUT applied) in terms of color. IMO it would be good to have something yellow and something red in the same shot(probably some flowers would be the best choice because of the natural colors) because from what I've seen A7S has greenish yellows and magentish reds.
    Personally I think that is the main reason why it's hard to correct A7S colors because you have two color casts that are opposite to each other in the color spectrum at the same time... and I don't think that the whole image is affected by those casts, just certain colors(IMO yellows and reds).

  3. As we have an iMac 5k Full Spec machine on the list to replace

    I suppose you maybe know this already, but you should only buy iMac with basic 8GB of RAM from Apple and buy the rest from OWC or Crucial. You can save substantial amount of money without loss of quality or performance. Apple's RAM pricing is a plain robbery.

    I think Crucial shop for Europe is in UK.

  4. That is my concern too. I'd love the try the Rangefinder on my Samyang primes, but I shoot with a mattebox when the internal ND's on my FS7 are not strong enough. The Rangefinder's focus gear will be unusable with a mattebox, however I think if you screw on an 82mm plastic lens hood to the Rangefinder like the one below, it'll give you plenty clearance to use a follow focus and mattebox. The only issue will be using wide lenses as you willl probably get vignetting.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Phot-R-82mm-PRO-Screw-On-Mount-Tele-Telephoto-Metal-Lens-Hood-Canon-Nikon-Sony-/271812381956?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f4947cd04

    That were exactly my thoughts :D.

    I think mattebox is important for this setup if you want to control flare, not that I don't like the flare in Andrew's video, it's quite positively strange and interesting.

  5. I think if URSA Mini lives up to expectations it would be a great A camera... just today I realised that besides all other options it will have an option to shoot 3072 x 2560 1.2:1 aspect ratio for use with 2x anamorphic lenses/adapters to get 2.4:1 cinemascope 6144 x 2560. With all other options that it will have, it certainly ticks a lot of boxes.

    But as you always say, first it has to be tested in the real world :).

  6. Try these

    http://cvp.com/index.php?t=product/datavision_dvs-ledgo-600lk2

    Color science expert Alan Roberts tested various lights with some advanced measurements because he feels that CRI(Color Rendering Index) has many flaws and is unreliable and outdated way of measuring quality of light.
    Here are the links to the article and test results page:
    http://www.gtc.org.uk/tlci-results.aspx
    http://www.gtc.org.uk/tlci-results/tlci-results-new-format.aspx

    In his tests, these relatively cheap Ledgo lights have better results then some much more expensive, so it seems like a good investment.

  7. The only problem is that there is quite substantial amount of noise as you can see in PB's footage especially if you put a lut on it. I denoised the footage first than used FilmConvert A7s Slog2 profile and it looks very nice to me with a little tweaking. I guess the noise is there because of the small sensor and lifted base iso for Slog2, but it's not a deal breaker for that kind of a camera. Dynamic range seems quite good.

    I know the footage is from RX100IV but as I understood the sensor is the same as in RX10II.

     

  8. ​That's actually really good. Any idea how we got the background so black? Would love to experiment with a similar idea.

    From Bloom's blog:

    "I didn’t shoot the kitchen piece in S-Log 2 as I find it way too noisy in HFR mode, even using Cine 2 and Cinema colour it was noisy in the blacks, hence I graded it strongly to hide what I could! I will share some natural light outside stuff HFT, 4K and HD very soon!"

  9. ​I personally don't mind the weight, I like a little heavier bodies and lenses, it feels more balanced in my hands. I think this lens paired with A7R II / A7S II IBIS would be a great combo.

    As Julian said, it is quite normal for this kind of a lens to be big. Of course, for APS-C users it's probably not that appealing because of the small range and not being wide enough(36-52mm in APS-C), but full frame shooters get 24,28,35mm primes in one lens if it is good as advertised.

  10. Shane Hurlbut tested Panny, Olympus and Voigtlander M4/3 lenses on GH4, and his opinion is that all 3 Voigtlanders are the most cinematic and Pannys came second. He was a little bit disapointed with Olympus ones.

    Personnaly I don't have any experience with any of them, but the guy is a working DP so I guess his opinion counts for something.

    More here on his blog:

    https://www.hurlbutvisuals.com/blog/2015/02/micro-43-lenses/

    https://www.hurlbutvisuals.com/blog/2015/04/micro-43-lenses-3/

     

  11. Well done, it is always nice to see these kind of videos with people smiling, dancing and enjoying themselves that make you wish to come visit the place.

    My only advice would be to choose were you put dissolve transitions(or any kind of transitions) more wisely. It can work well sometimes like when you had that closeup of the hand after a wide shot, but you don't need them all the time.

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