Liszon

​I agree with that. It sure ain't 'mini'. 
I think this camera is what the original BMCC should have been. A camera with proper ergonomics for filmmaking that doesn't require a huge amount of additional rigging.
​It's a nice new tool that could solve some of the headaches we have to face. I don't think any of us are under the illusion that it's going to transform us into better filmmakers.

Did you see the eriknaso.com link? ​It looks like a nice fit for a shoulder. I wouldn't say 'massive'.

Good deal. Only $500 more than that Canon fixed lens 1" sensor camcorder. 

Sinister, but telling the truth I really wanted a post like this. Just for educational purposes..

​The funny thing is, you can completely turn this around.
You could say this is a 10 grand camera originally, but if you don't need certain features such as WiFi, Dual SDI or that battery grip you can knock the price down let's say by 1.5 grand.
A different example: I like the URSA, but the iPad on the front annoys me. I would gladly save £500 and get rid of it, buying an extra CFast card instead.

​Yeah I don't think I would shoot anything at 6K uncompressed, storage would be insane. But I think the Golden 3K Cineform would strike the perfect balance in terms of detail, edit ability, and space/quality ratio.

​I am the king of off topic!
 
Just f35, v mount adapter in the back, d tap to 4 pix xlr to hook up to interface box and the odyssey 7q - and you are good to go
2 hd-sdi cables into the odyssey 7q and boom you are done.
so it's about 10 lbs - you have an amazing monitor and recorder and just a top handle on it
if you are serious email me at ed.david@gmail.com I can help you find the camera on ebay and boom go for it.

FLOATING ZONE FOCUS EXPLAINED
Nikon calls this Close Range Correction and Canon calls it Floating Element, so for the sake of accuracy Rectilux calls it Floating Zone Focus.

Back in the day, when lenses were focused by moving the whole cell forward and back from the film plane, it was noticed that when close focused, the image quality suffered. For example, it is usually found that say a vintage 135mm lens would typically be limited to 1.5m close focus for this reason.

Nikon found that by shuffling the distance between lens elements, using a mechanical cam system that they could tighten up the dispersion of the imaging rays to give much improved close focusing capability. Rectilux does the same thing but manually as detailed below.
 
As you know Rectilux 3FF-W will focus from 0.6m to infinity when the anamorphic and taking lenses are simultaneously set to infinity.
Call this configuration ‘INF-INF’

Now say you are on set and the shot list says you don’t need to focus on anything beyond 5m. Just set your anamorphic and taking lenses simultaneously to 5m. Call this configuration ‘5-5’. Thus 5m is the new infinity and means that you can shoot from 5m down to much closer than 0.6m (I will leave you to do the calculation) and the close shots will be much crisper than the configuration ‘INF-INF’. Of course the whole stroke is available to you, so much precise focus is easily obtained.
Now say you have a romantic candlelit dinner scene. You want lots of bokeh and also want to use it to blot out background distractions. Storyboard calls for reverse head shots and you tell your AC to configure Rectilux to ‘2-2’, meaning set the anamorphic and taking lenses simultaneously to 2m, so now 2m is the new infinity and gives you very close focus capability, so that when the guy proposes and puts the engagement ring on his GFs finger you are there to scoop it up, filling the frame with this shot.
I suspect now you will come to realise the additional advantage of the quick change system, enabling you or your AC, to quickly remove the scope and set it to the desired ‘X-X’ configuration and put it back ready to shoot.

I guess it was just a problem with my external harddrive, it plays fine for me on youtube as well. 
I bassically used the same chips used in the kineraw camera which is running on linux so it was not too hard to find drivers for it, right now its still on a deveolpment board, so its not really "small" its about as big as my ikea coffee table..  there are still lots of problems with it and I dont know if I can make it really that usefull, after thinking about it I get the price for the shogun as they have to get back their development costs, but really the hardware is not worth that much, This whole project has taken me all Winter pretty much (I am a engineering student so I had the winter off). 
It was really ment as a proof of concept for a cheap 4K "Recorder".  And I think some chinese Company will probably release a recorder like that on the cheap (wink at Blackmagic)
Now, stuff like ProRes Encoding is a totally different thing and I find it crazy what Blackmagic has pulled of with the pocket, thats just awesome engineering. 
 
This thing will never be a replacement for the shogun .. sadly  

Hey guys, I build a 4K Recorder out of some ghetto parts, right now that still includes a Laptop and is really not that useful, its not even battery powered yet.  
However I did a small test and some of you might appreciate it, its by far the cheapest solution to get 4K out of the A7s but requieres a lot of knowledge of electronics and soldering (+- 200€) I am going to try to make it battery powered and smaller and add a Monitor, I think the price for the Shogun is too high.   
First priority is going to ditch the laptop in favour of dedicated electronics.  
It is also still dropping some frames (or rather holding them, weird maybe one of the chips is having a timing problem).  The A7s HDMI signal is actually a very normal signal, nothing special going on (contrary to the FS700 for example, which is some kind of weird Sony bullshit) 
 
 
I uploaded a test to youtube, I just used a cheap Igus slider with the A7s just pressed to the slider, I lost the stupid screw for the Tripod Head...  if anyone wants the source .tif files or the Rendered H264, let me know and I might upload them. 
 
 
 
 
 

Just a sidenote, if Spike Lee has the right to say all kinds of things then it should be natural to accept anyone's right to call him racist. That's the beauty of the equation.

​It's clear that the Ciecio7 Positive Locking ring eliminates the 'micro wigle' between
the bayonnet of the lens and the adapter,
but, how do they eliminate the wigle between their adapter and the camera's spring loaded lens port?
do they screw it permanently on the camera housing??

It has a bit too much CA and smearing for my taste, reminds me of the Panasonic LA7200.
But it's great to see some real world tests, thanks Zak.

Update:
uploaded trailer
 

The quality is superb. Maybe even better than when using the FM + Cinelux with regular primes. Employing the actual backing projector lenses just makes everything gel together beautifully. The look is more than a match for any vintage anamorphic prime lens. You'd be hard-pressed to get better sharpness with a Lomo or Cineovision, especially at T2.
I wish that FM would actually go and make an anamorphic element specifically for the module, as well as a line of backing lenses. Make a complete system.

You guys are acting like a bunch of kids. It's really painful to watch.

Just did some research and the Iscorama's single focus mechanism patent is expired.
Hopefully this will lead to some creativity on the part of new anamorphic designs.

Cosimo, I think there's no need for this mate.  I understand you might want to take revenge, but just leave it be. Every 2nd person is pushing a business here now anyway, also competition is good in many ways.

In flickr I have many anamorphic and Xpan photos:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/29238162@N04/
My 2 cents.

Great fotos and stills! Although I am the worst photographer on the forum (internet?) I dare to post some images
Canon FDn 50mm (plus cheapbooster) and mighty-little-8mm Moeller

Canon FDn 28mm and 1968 Exakta Iscorama

Schneider Kreuznach Optivaron and  late 70's Iscorama 54 (obvisously not MC)

​
If I were a lens tech / equipment procurer for a rental house in LA I'd see no problems hitting buy it now on some of the higher prices if it means i can just buy it and have it in a few days for a client that I know would rent it, then have it in stock for future clients looking for something different.  nothing else does what an iscorama can do, and for the price of a single crappy boring compact prime (a budget lens for rental to film school final productions) the iscorama is a rather amazing item.  The rental houses are dictating the buy it now prices.  the guys with enough time to sit at the computer and snipe are the ones who get the irregular bargains.   People are paying silly prices, but probably paying with a company credit card knowing 10 days of hire will pay for the lens outright. 

Happy new Year to all the FM users 

After playing around for a VND solution for the taking lens on the FM I've found a good solution.
I've used a Cokin double-threaded 72mm VND. (The front filter thread is 77mm).
I screwed a collapsible rubber lens hood to the 77mm front and folded back to form a rubber ring grip that controls the VND spin. The cool thing is that the lens hood is also double threaded, so the internal thread ring of the hood provides a barrier when positioning to the cinelux rear or FM aluminium mounting tube (although 77-67mm step down ring would be safer to protect from FM tube rear) .
This means that there is less risk of the ND glass or anamorphic rear touching - yet it provides a very nice close alignment, without having to hard mount together.  
I've used:
72mm Cokin PURE Harmonie Variable NDX filter
Kood 77mm 77 Universal Rubber Lens Hood (nice knurled grip on outside)
49-72mm step ring (or whatever starting diameter for your taking lens)

If an additional 77-72mm step ring is inserted into the lens hood front - it is also possible to make a semi-hard linkage to the 72mm FM cinelux thread adapter ring.The VND can spin a few 360 degree rotations until the thread would eventually tighten and come to an stop. This is a good solution if you want 100% light/ dustproof connection as well as know that the taking lens is perfectly aligned. 
 

Sure mate, good luck with the sale. The Nikon taking lens is handy indeed. Regarding the flares, I always preferred multi coated lenses (the new SLR Magic flares horribly in my opinion) but that's just my taste. That Isco 54 was a terrific buy, you can't deny that. The Cinegon I linked is actually single coated, probably like yours although it has a c-mount taking lens.
Again, good luck and happy new year!

The price is a bit steep I think. They go £1300-1600 on Ebay nowadays.