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It does look really good and if it only had a mechanical shutter, it would be golden. Titanium golden to be precise.

Unboxing here - I should say that it looks amazing.

Art… Over the last couple of years I have become increasingly disillusioned by “video”. Far too much emphasis on gear. Buying the latest drone or gimbal or battery solution and upgrading this or that or, preferably, both. And to what end? To produce something that a handful of people will watch once on a phone screen? Last year I had the opportunity to produce a couple of short promotional films for a heritage steam railway. They got in the order of 10k views. Were they “art”? No, they were artistically dreadful. Was there any joy in making them? Not really - far too many hours sitting staring at a screen trying to remember how to use Resolve. (And, to be honest, the parts people liked most were the iPhone bits - the “artistic” sweeping views and thoughtful sequences were redundant…) All the time wondering whether a Canon might be better (whatever that means) than my Sony? A LUMIX better than my P6k? Or should I look good and get a RED badge? Or a Nikon? All, of course, irrelevant… the quality of today’s stuff is way more than what I’m capable of. So a change of scene. I’ve bought a M11M to produce art for the wall. Something which will last beyond a quick Vimeo view. It’s gorgeous to use. I got a mix of Leica and Voigtlander lenses (the latter’s 28/35/50 Apo are fabulous). The results are incredible. Ok, so I still need to sit at the computer with Capture One but protecting the highlights and pulling up the shadows reveals staggering levels of detail. And standing by the side of a Scottish loch debating whether to use a green, yellow, orange or red filter? Well, it ticks the pseudo-intellectual hipster box. Of course, the P6k will come out of the cupboard every-so-often but the focus - the passion - is now on monochrome art. Art. In both process and product.

high praise indeed, from the man who's usually the one dishing out impactful photos 😉 If i am honest, i'm quite chuffed with my shot as well lol. These cattle had been penned nearly for two weeks as the trucks couldn't get in to load and have been fed and watered every day and in that time have really settled down, being handled every day. The yards really quite long and there's about 103 cattle in there and widens out on the right hand side. Although you don't see that many in this shot.

Just watching this video here, which is about the Sirui Ironstar 35mm T1.9 1.5x lens and am amazed at how different the looks are: This has loads of vertical bokeh: and yet, this has triangular horizontal bokeh (I think it's called Coma?): I mean, seriously: Then he compares them to the Blazar Remus which seems to have vertical bokeh that even gets more prominent towards the edges rather than less-so: and then compare that to a swirly bokeh image cropped to a broadly similar aspect ratio and the bokeh on the very edges looks similar: It's definitely not the same, but if it wasn't sharpened to within an inch of its life it might be a broadly similar aesthetic when put into a more normal scene. Or this crazy combo of Helios 44-2 and Blazar 1.5x adapter, which seems to have horizontal streaking on the edges rather than vertical: I'm beginning to think the bokeh is a lie, or potentially randomly generated!

Great shot of the cows.. like Mercer said it's window into chaos, and great use of the fence. I'm finding myself leaning heavily into the more vintage aspects of late, vignetting / CA / heavy film look / etc. I'm not sure why and I'll probably go too far and then pull back later once I've explored the territory. Perhaps the thing I like about anamorphic most is the non-circular bokeh as it gives a surreal feeling - our eyes just don't do that so it reinforces that feeling that movies happen in a parallel reality near ours rather than in the same one we live in. I find that the level of anamorphic characteristics visible in these lenses varies greatly between shots. For example this one shows quite a bit of it. and then this one seems to show almost none, including the complete lack of horizontal flares. In fact, despite shooting in crowded streets for quite a few hours over a few outings, I don't think I saw a single horizontal streak in the camera or footage. I didn't stand in the middle of the road while oncoming traffic approached, but the conditions sure had their fair share of almost direct LED lights set against very dark surroundings. Even this image, where the almost-white billboard was just below clipping and the sky is very very low there's no streaks... (on the GH7 the DR is so good I can almost always protect the highlights and still pull things up in the grade) @QuickHitRecord for reference the above shot was with the Voigt stopped down as I'd forgotten my vND filter, so that's how sharp the Sirui 1.25x can be, and this is how soft it can look too (not softened in post): It's definitely a rabbit hole, but one I am very curious about in terms of the images. It's interesting to compare the aesthetic to the test I posted previously of a very degraded spherical setup which in some ways is very similar and in other ways is very different. Loving this thread and looking forward to doing more testing when I get home.

It's a pretty subdued look, but I like it. I can't make out as many fine details as usual and I love when she's just a little out of focus. Also, I'm kind of over the horizontal flares. Nice shots. Especially the cows. Anamorphic projector attachments are definitely a way to burn up a lot of money on a whole lot of nothing. I could have made a down payment on a house with the amount I spent on them (though I did recoup some when selling). This time, if I end up buying anything, it will have to be pretty inexpensive. I can't look away from poor financial decisions as easily as I did in my younger days. I had a random memory of this test that I posted here 11 years ago. I never did anything with this combination. I should probably give it another shot. It's unique and I still have all of the components. And maybe there are better wide angle converters that will yield different results.

@maxJ4380 love this shot. Nice color and sharpness. I like how you used the fence rails to add an even tighter window into the frame... especially with how busy the frame is... A window into chaos. It also looks like a frame right out of Yellowstone.

Some more NZR footage

First time in ages i got away for a few days and did a road trip out to a little country town i like to visit. Full discloser, never really considered myself, much of a cleanliness or sterility freak 🙃. However i am liking the sirui 1.33 24mm. Probably mostly for the convenience it brings. Its not 1.5, 1.6 or 2x, and i think the anamorphic effects are kinda tame compared to those other stretches i mention. I liken it to stepping stones i think, little bit different to what you'd normally see but not as jarring as 2x ( although jarring might be too strong an adjective). It will flare and do the blue streaks as well but i find the blue streaks to be less intrusive compared to what you see on youtube. I suspect the first prototypes steaked quite a lot in youtube videos, no idea if they toned them down. My experiences has been their abit more subdued. The anamorphics guy Tito Ferradans has a vid on using oval cutouts in sirui lenses. I'd probably try something like that next. If i wanted a look that was closer to 2x Its taken a while to figure this lens out and i expect i still need to do more with it to realize its potential. The whole sterility / cleanliness thing, is of course subjective. What you may like, i may not and vice versa. I personally don't find cleanliness and or sharpness objectional in a lens and i recently bought a lens with a whole lot of yellowing going on that most wouldn't buy. I think the sirui and the other modern anamorphic lenses bring convenience to anamorphics. Buying a vintage anamorphic is much like travelling down a rabbit hole. Theres lots of things to add on and sometimes that can take a while to sort out. Its my understanding that 1.33 are geared towards crop sensors and the bigger stretches for full frame ? of course you can mix and match, if you so desire. i'm on mft format and i think 1.33 stretch adds enough of a difference for me. i also suspect a 1.33 stretch is a good start, if your looking to dip your toes in anamorphics and have a crop sensor camera, but dont want to travel down a rabbit hole.

The "Jennette (GH5 + Kowa 8Z Anamorphic)" footage might be quite sharp actually, but the lighting is very soft (despite being quite directional), the grade of the video is very low contrast, the stream on YT is 1080p, and who knows what their export from their NLE was like. Have a pixel pee at the shot at 20s and see what you think. It seems like there's very little funk going on with that shot compared to more vintage glass. For example, compare it to some of the older lenses on share grid: https://www.sharegrid.com/quadplayer Like the Hawk V-Lite '74, the Todd AO, etc choosing the 50mm wide open option. In your two shots B&H vs Sirui don't discount the impact that Halation / Bloom / Glow can have on a shot - the resolution stays the same but the sharpness is reduced along with the perception of sharpness because of the reduction in local contrast beyond the pixel level. Yeah, you can always reduce resolution in post but you can't increase it (despite all this AI trickery trying to do this). Don't be afraid of blurring the image either. I suggest you make a list of all your NLEs effects that can soften / blur / diffuse / etc, then take a couple of example shots and apply each of those effects in turn and just see what looks you can get from these tools. It's work, but if you do it properly and label and export the images you will only have to do it once, and you might find that you can get a cheaper and more flexible lens and use some effects in post to get the look you want. Also, don't forget that if you don't set the taking lens to exactly infinity then the focus of the taking and anamorphic elements won't ever be aligned, so things near the focal plane will either be blurring vertically or horizontally or a combination of both. Do this subtly and it will just knock-off the sharpness of the focal plane but keep the rest of the image basically the same.

I'm looking around to find an example to explain this better. Most of what I'm seeing is too sharp. This is nice. I find that sometimes I actually like when anamorphic lenses having taking lenses that are focused just a little off. Here's my B&H single focus vs a Sirui 1.6x that I rented. I'd happily just stick with the B&H if I could go wider with it. I also like what I'm seeing from the Kowa 16D in terms of character, but it's not going to play well with a ~50mm lens either. That is a really nice lens. Very smooth bokeh, and a little CA in the bokeh wide open (which I quite like). I think those Voigtlanders are known for holding circular bokeh for longer when stopping down, a very nice characteristic for pairing with an anamorphic lens. I think you're onto something. Check out this video. Tropical was the wrong word. But it's super humid! I liked in Kobe for three years. I've owned the Helios three different times, and sold it. I just don't get along with that lens. If I can find a decent mod on a fast 35-50mm lens (with no streak), I'd consider it. From what I've seen, the mods still don't have the weirdness of true anamorphic. What Blazar is doing is really neat. I think they are doing it with their new Beetle lenses as well.

Japan is not tropical at all. Tokyo sits at 35N, a little bit North of San Diego, CA which is about 33N. For buying used lenses, tariffs are a real motherfucker, since buying lenses used from Japan used to mean getting them for a bit less than US prices and in much nicer condition all-around. As can my Blazar 1.33x when I pair it with one. It's a great place to pair with an old DSO FF 58 if you can find one at a reasonable price (or just wait until Gale does another run of them, I picked one up last year over the holidays). If playing with this, you might also experiment with a lens modded with an oval aperture or with just putting an oval cutout in front of or behind the lens. It'll make the bokeh a little more stretched. It's similar to what Blazar are doing with Mantis and was one of the options with the previously-mentioned DSO FF 58. I think there are also tutorials on doing a DIY mod for the Helios 58 (the lens used for DSO) to have it.

Great thread BTW. Modern sterile images are incredibly boring.

Here's a quick test from the Voigtlander 42.5mm F0.95 and Sirui 1.25x showing the overall quality and how it behaves with differing apertures. The Voigt is sharp when stopped down, but not when wide open. The colour shifts are from the Voigt. F2.0 F1.4 F0.95 Here's an image from the other night to get a bit of a flavour. I've sharpened it quite a bit in post. I've shot with this combo on my current trip and really like it, but it's really heavy and so I've been thinking about alternatives for getting a similar look. I'm starting to think of this as a two-part challenge: the first part is things that can only be done optically like the bokeh (size, shape, CA, etc) and the second part is things that can be influenced in post (especially the softness of the focal plane). In this sense, I'm looking for glass that will give me the right bokeh, and can then degrade the image in post using softening, vignetting, distortion (barrel / pincushion), CA (of the whole image) etc. I'm surprised at how much the bokeh swirls: The fact that swirly bokeh is just anamorphic bokeh at the sides of the image, and the wider the aspect ratio you end up using in the final video the more you're cropping off the top and bottom where the swirl goes from vertical to horizontal, makes me think that a very swirly spherical lens with a wide crop might be a passable alternative. I will be investigating my vintage fast ~50mm collection on SB when I get home. These seem the easiest way to get soft images with character without huge weight and complexity and cost.

How dirty are you looking for? My Sirui 1.25x can look pretty dirty if you put it on a softer taking lens.

@Ninpo33Thanks for such a detailed response. It's good to know that there are still some out there making beautiful images with this old glass. I love the idea of Buyee for vintage lenses, but it never seems like it was more cost effective than just waiting it out on eBay. And that was before the tariffs. Plus, it seems like a lot of older glass imported from tropical climates has more fungus. How do you make it work for you? I can't find anything written about this. Is it as simple as unscrewing the back panel and popping out the anamorphic element? Seems like a steal compared to some of these other variable diopters. Are there any known limitations? Is that a YashicaScope? Would love to see some footage!

I have my doubts as well. Then again, the ZR was such a rushed collaboration between Nikon and RED that you never know if the R3D NE implementation, or Resolve decoding, was modified or tweaked at the last minute for the production version. Whatever the case, you have to applaud Nikon for the ability to match the Komodo-X color and DR so closely in their own promotional videos.

Another bargain right now is the Laowa Nanomorph lenses if you’re OK with APS-C. Used they’re getting really cheap and they’re very tiny. For a native mount solution and ease of use they’re quite acceptable in my opinion. Especially if you consider not needing to mess with all the clamps, adapters, FVD’s etc and being able to go wide.

My “Pocket Anamorphic” setup i’m working on. Waiting for a couple eastern european guys to finish with a small scale front focuser prototype for these little 8mm scopes.

Right now it’s a great time to pick up older adapters vs new modern $$$ anamorphic lenses. The 2x stretch and even 1.5x stretch of the older adapters looks really good to my eyes compared to the modern offerings. The Yen is also fairly weak so buying from Japanese websites takes it to another level. There’s also a nice middle ground and I’ve had a blast choosing from the best of both worlds. My favorites in 2025 1. Most Kowa Prominar 2x and 1.75x versions. $200 now 2. Elmoscope II because they are usually in amazing condition and equal to the Kowa’s but cheaper because they are not as well known. $150 now 3. Smaller 8mm scopes because they are fun and I’m working on a tiny solution with old small Rangefinder glass and Fuji APS-C $100 - $150 now 4. Blazar Nero 1.5x adapter because it’s good and you can play with completely different looks depending on taking lens and sensor size. Looks really good on APS-C and gets very funky on Full frame. $500 or less now on the used market if your patient. 5. Siuri 1.25x adapter mod where you take out the anamorphic and convert it to just a DIY Variable focusing adapter for cheap. That way you can have a budget focusing option for the older adapters at a reasonable cost. $250

Its so rare with Nikon that I can say it never happens. They may fix a couple of bugs, but tweaking features and performance after announcement date and before shipping date? Very unlikely.

This is a good result from the Korean test of the ZR, but note that it is on a 4K timeline (whereas, the one I posted above was for 6K R3D NE on a 6K timeline): 6K or 8K on a 4K timeline will always result in a better DR performance on Imatest. Paule's test of the ZR against the S1 II was also really informative, especially when it comes to the ZR's advantage for highlight roll-off. But it is difficult to compare between his test scenario and CineD's, which uses NR to determine underexposure stops. For example, CineD also rated the Canon R1 at 9 stops latitude and equal to the S1 II. However, I'm not sure most people will see the benefit of those claimed 9 stops as they involve heavy NR. I did see a very recent interview where the Nikon rep, Ricci Chera, showed a production version of the ZR and noted that all the testers were pre-production models. It is entirely possible that Nikon has tweaked the camera for better DR or other performance aspects and that these cameras are now making it into the hands of the consumers. Chera also implies at 10:00 that the "Z-cinema family" will fill out an entire range of cameras and lenses, which means that more Z-cinema branded products are coming to market.

If you're using Chrome, you can just right click on some random part of the page and select "translate to english" and it does a pretty decent job.

Q&A from Mark Bone