5 months ago our company bought Zhiyun crane plus gimbal.
While we edited our footage we discovered that there is a problem in gimbal stabilisation. Though the gimbal was 100%balanced in all positions, it still appeared stabilization problem to every single shot.
This a video sample with the Crane plus and a Sony A7III.
I tried to sent email to the company but none of the emails in their site works and in the tech support on Facebook the answer was that everything is ok.
Hi, I have a Zhongyi Lens Turbo that fits fine on my Panasonic G6, but I recently noticed that it doesn't attach to my neglected Olympus OM-D E-M5.
It will sit flush in the mount, but then you can't turn it at all to lock it in place, not even a fraction of a mm.
I think i've probably had the Lens Turbo a little too long to return now. It didn't occur to me to test it on the E-M5, as I've been shooting so much with the G6, and it worked fine on that.
Has anyone ever experienced anything like this either with a Lens Turbo, or with other adaptors or lenses?
Should I try to force it? File something down?? Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.
Using picture profile 7 on the A7S uses Slog2 Gamma and S-Gamut Color Mode. This can result in green/yellow splotches on skintones after converting Slog2 into something that looks close to Rec709. WB settings in camera or after correction in post don't appear to matter: only certain shades of skintones have the color issues. While this can be fixed with qualifier color range correction tools, that's a lot of extra work. I found that changing the Color Mode to Cinema appears to fix the color issue (Pro Color Mode also looks pretty good). It's not clear how this might affect dynamic range (figure primarily related to gamma/luma), as that's a major point of using Slog2, however so far the results look pretty good.
By John Palmer
Hello! I bough this Dylaiscope Junior 16 anamorphic projector lens from ebay last week for $51, I was very surprised No one ever out bid me. Optically it is in pretty good shape, some minor cosmetic scratches on the body. The main problem I have with it is the focus ring is fairly difficult to turn. I basically need to take it off the mount to set focus everytime because Im afraid I will put unneccesary stress on the lens and mount attached to the camera.
I was just wondering if anyone has any experince or knowledge about lubricating lenses. I already know it is generally not a good idea for a non profession to take apart an anamorphic lens since all the elements need to stay perfectly alligned, but I was wondering if anyone knows the function of the 3 screws towards the back of the lens seen in the picture. I can sorta see a bar inside the lens that they seem to be holding. I have taken apart old Canon fd mount lenses before and reassembled with no issue but Im sure this is a bit more difficult.
What would happen if I were to loosen those screws?
It seems to me that this lens has probably been sitting somewhere for a very long time and the original lubricant has become less oily or something. I removed the face plate of the lens with all the writing on it and removed some of the grease and found it was a greenish shade, which I read from other forums is a type of grease known for sticking over time, not sure if it is the same grease used throughout the lens though. From what Ive read Dyaliscope lenses are of pretty good quality but havent been able to really find much about them.
Any advice or ideas would be appreciated.
Like color science, cadence/motion can differ greatly from camera to camera. It's harder to spot and consequently it's not frequently discussed. But some cameras have 24P that looks an awful lot like 30P. So, strictly focusing on câ€‹adence, which cameras look good to you, and which don't? Please post examples.