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EOSHD Pro Color for Sony Cameras

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4 hours ago, Mike Hope said:

Just bought EOS HD and received V2.0 pdf

However didn't succeed in adjusting Custom X White Balance to anything other than predefined 5500K. No matter what I point the camera at it sticks to 5500K when I enter "White Balance Adjustment" (A-B and G-M setting entered succefully).

Any hints on that?

edit: just found out myself ...

Sony a6300 V1.10

So you discovered how?  The guide did indeed cover how to get 3600K and 4300K, you just need to point it at tungsten sources and not have daylight in the shot so much.

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EOSHD Pro Color for Sony cameras EOSHD Pro LOG for Sony CamerasEOSHD C-LOG and Film Profiles for All Canon DSLRs

UPDATE 3 is in the works

Addresses the following -

1. Users of the old A7S (original model mark 1) may wish to try the v2.0 settings for the A6300/A6500 if they are getting a shift in the reds to purple and a shift in greens to blue. That is a bug with S-Gamut on that camera. The A7S II and newer cameras don't have the same problem with S-Gamut and S-Gamut 3.Cine.

2. Some shooters say they prefer the old A6300/6500 settings so I will offer both choices in the next update.

3. The tweaked S-LOG2 profile was left out of the v2.0 settings update guide because it didn't change.... but this led to some confusion so it will be back in the next update.

Again no need to contact me directly for the update (unless you don't get the newsletter in a few days).

6 hours ago, MC Wedding Films said:

The guide did indeed cover how to get 3600K and 4300K, you just need to point it at tungsten sources and not have daylight in the shot so much.

You can also just dial the K manually depending on the shot.

2500-3200 if you want true white surfaces and cooler scenes under otherwise warm interior lights

3400-3600 if you want to keep the ambience of warm indoor lights

5600 in the sun

7000-8000 in the shade or at dusk / early evening

Then back to 3200 or 3400 for most exterior night time shoots under artificial lights, street lights, etc.

Alternatively, it takes a bit of effort but you can set the custom presets to

1. 2800 or 3400 (how warm do you want your ambience indoors?)

2. 5600 (regularly used outdoors in day light)

3. 7000 (regularly used outdoors when cloudy or in twilight conditions and shaded areas)

Then tweak as desired in post... although with EOSHD Pro Color you certainly don't have to tweak anything in post.

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14 hours ago, MC Wedding Films said:

So you discovered how?  The guide did indeed cover how to get 3600K and 4300K, you just need to point it at tungsten sources and not have daylight in the shot so much.

Easier said than done! I have tried all corners of the room and even stepped inside a cupboard with a tungsten light source, but nothing has shifted my WB from 5500K when using Custom 1, 2 or 3.

The only thing I can do is manually shift the WB whenever I shoot in varying conditions using the C.Temp./Filter option. I just need to remember to do this and it only takes a moment as I have C2 customisable button (WB adjustments) next to C1 customisable button (movie record), so no biggie.

Off to the German market tonight to test this first setting out, so will post a result or two sometime tomorrow.

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Hi Andrew,

Just got on your bandwagon using the EOSHD settings for my sony A7ii and RX100v.

1. what exposure compensation do you recommend shooting EOSHD style with: over or under exposed? + at what rate (I shoot Slog-2 (+1,7) = 2 stops over and cine style about 1 stop (-0,7) under exposed and correct in post ...

2. you recomend shooting in 4K 100 - but then you lose on the stabilisation (RX100v) - it's my run and gun camera - i want to have access to this cam at all times - use for stills - video and slomo. But it's a trade off; 4K for wider views and cropping in post OK but with more detailed shots I prefer the in camera stabilisation. Also I find that with 4K and adjustingg some settings I will spoil the shot.

Any ideas for an optimum shoot?

3. video in M (photo) mode; interesting. I do this all the time but never realized the benefits. Where do I make sure the photo settings (p.e. variable shutter time) can be adjusted but the video settings are fixed (fixed shuttertime - usually 1/50 at 25 fps).

I want to work fast -so i have set my delete button to fix the AEL * - so I don't get any changes / adjustments while shooting a clip and when running and gunning... I also Swap manual and auto focus a lot during a shot. 

The RX100V is real point 'n shoot bridge camera for work shooting:  video- photo - slomo - video etc etc. Any ideas for settings using the camera this way?

PS the trick I use in M mode is eye photo focus for video - I eye focus, then switch to manual focus and start the video - there is no eye focus in video but this way I can get close. Especially when using wide open...

Looking forward to the replies !
greetings from Holland
Stefan Flos

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1. With Pro Color you don't expose like S-LOG. Since the screen gives you a perfectly good impression of the final EOSHD Pro Colour image in terms of exposure, contrast and saturation you can use that as the guide. You can also under expose slightly to protect the highlights, but not too far! Go from the screen and your eye.

2. EOSHD Pro Color works great in 1080p. You can answer your own question on this one... Agreed 1080p is very nice on the RX100 IV / V so use it if you prefer. This was more a guideline than anything else, not a hard rule. I usually pick 4K for the ultimate image quality, but 1080p has it's advantages too.

3. Not sure I understand what you are asking there... Shutter speed is set as normal in M mode. Use 1/50 for the best motion cadence in 24p and 25p. Don't be afraid to use higher shutter speeds in bright light especially for locked down shots with little movement, or slowly moving people, as in this situation the difference in motion cadence is less noticeable... unless you're prepared to get out the NDs (sometimes a hassle), exposing on shutter speed is the next best option, certainly beats shooting at F16 - yuk.

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pt 3; I presumed the video settings and M photo settings are seperated. But they are not. In order to quickly switch from video M mode to a photo mode I guess you can use a memory preset. P.E. when shooting video in M set to 1/50 A to vary and ISO auto and then quickly switching to photo mode A prioriy - shuttespeed variable - you just swits to M 1 button and start making photo's. When starting to make video again switch back to M mode (just one click). it would be an addition if the movie settings would be seperated from the photo settings - so pushing the record button would use the preset video setting and not the photo setting. that's what I mean.

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My first effort with Pro Color using the A7S ii and Zeiss 55mm f1.8 - despite errors with exposure on my part, I decided not to touch what came out of the camera when editing. I am delighted with the outcome and will move on to testing under different lighting conditions over the next week or so.

 

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I like the samples posted so far in this thread.

However, it would be nice to see some more daytime skin tone shots with the A7SII, and even better, with Canon comparisons shot at the same time.

Thanks in advance.

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Hi Andrew, spent yesterday evening testing the eoshd settings on both my A7ii and rx100v and both on photos Raw processed in capture one pro for sony 10 and video. The results are very promising. I focus especially on people and thus skin tones. very good results except the lips! these are too red. I noticed the result is exactly as on the cover photo of your manual, where i first thought the model is wearing lipstic. 

how do I tone down the color of the lips without affecting the rest of the colors. tried to tone down the color phase to 0 and even -7 but this renders the picture flat.

ideas? 

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7 hours ago, Andrew Reid said:

That came out well. Every colour nailed perfectly!!

Also, your 'German' christmas markets are much better than the real ones in Berlin :)

Some of the lighting conditions were difficult because of the occasional mix of harsh white floodlight style LED lamps above some of the workers (which would have needed to be warmed up) and the warm lights everywhere else. I found myself seeing colour everywhere (as opposed to composition or anything else) because the view through the EVF wasn't the usual slightly flat, greyish Cine 4 settings that I have been using to date (Matt Johnson) - the view was as I saw with my own eyes and no dominating yellows.

Aside from shooting RAW photos, this is the first time since buying my camera earlier in the year that I have been excited to use it and I am itching to get out and about in the daytime now - though it will be greyer than Berlin for the next few days due to the Geminids showing up tonight. It is always cloudy and wet when I want to shoot a meteor shower.

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Hi Andrew,

I've done a quick test with the LUTs which you said would give a Canon faithful style image for S-LOG2 on the FS7.

I'm a bit concerned that the A7S and FS7 renders colour slightly differently and therefore these LUTs might not be suitable for both cameras...what do you think from looking at the footage?

Also the LUTs seem to need a shift in exposure to make them work. I don't really understand that I shot at 800EI and these LUTs still look underexposed despite the fact that I haven't compensated in Resolve for the exposure index difference between the 800 ISO setting and the native 2000 ISO. If anything they should look overexposed. Usually with SLog3 footage, I shoot at 800 ISO and compensate by bringing the exposure down by 1.3 stops in Resolve and applied LUTs look correct (as shown later in the clip). 

A number of them also result in banding...Plainview, Scarlett 2, Scarlett.

I really love the look you create on some of your videos and share your feelings that the Canon images are nice out of the can...so could you give me some advice on this pls.

Sorry this is in the wrong thread.

9 minutes ago, jim_cam said:

Hi Andrew,

I've done a quick test with the LUTs which you said would give a Canon faithful style image for S-LOG2 on the FS7.

I'm a bit concerned that the A7S and FS7 renders colour slightly differently and therefore these LUTs might not be suitable for both cameras...what do you think from looking at the footage?

Also the LUTs seem to need a shift in exposure to make them work. I don't really understand that I shot at 800EI and these LUTs still look underexposed despite the fact that I haven't compensated in Resolve for the exposure index difference between the 800 ISO setting and the native 2000 ISO. If anything they should look overexposed. Usually with SLog3 footage, I shoot at 800 ISO and compensate by bringing the exposure down by 1.3 stops in Resolve and applied LUTs look correct (as shown later in the clip). 

A number of them also result in banding...Plainview, Scarlett 2, Scarlett.

I really love the look you create on some of your videos and share your feelings that the Canon images are nice out of the can...so could you give me some advice on this pls.

Sorry this is in the wrong thread, but I want a few go those EOSHD profile colours for my FS7!

 

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Definitely keeping mine, though I have in recent times past considered moving systems altogether due to the colour headaches. I didn't think it possible to get punchy colours without the associated plasticity when upping saturation in post. Really looking forward to a bit of sunshine, which is allegedly arriving on Saturday. Already got a variety of different coloured clothing for the kids to wear as I begin to look at sunlit skin tones out in the park and woods.

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