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Your ideal NX1 Settings


Geoff CB
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I think my favorite thing about your method is that the stills from your video really do look just like they were snapping in photo mode. beautiful colors and very natural feeling. My one worry is that you might sacrifice some latitude with this setup? Having not actually used it yet, I don't know that for sure. How do you feel it performs in that regard?

Yeah, the resolution of this cam makes for quite nice frame grabs. As far as latitude goes, I guess you could do more with a flatter image but FilmConvert over the top of it and tweaked a little seems to give some good looks. I like the Astia and Provia presets with the Arri Alexa Rec709 profile. The Red / Epic X / Redgamma profiles seems to work Ok as well but you need to dial down the film colour.  I'm just a hobbyist that enjoys learning video but I reckon this camera is not really designed for heavy grading. It seems to be at it's best looking natural or with just a light grade. 

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nope, I load the clip in premiere and start grading w/o any prior operation.

that's the issue. You should perform noise reduction with any camera before grading. Neat video works great, it will reduce noise and create "new" pixels. Apply the noise plugin with chromatic noise at something like 0.4 and then start grading.

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yeah and make sure you export with max rendering and bit depth to take advantage of it

Do you think it is necessary to export/import video after denoising?

I mean that if the Neat video is at the top in Effects and below is eg. Lumetri then the result should be same as export of denoised video and then import for grading (It think that in this case - Premiere firstly denoise video and then apply other effects in one task). You can avoid another compression. Am I correct? 

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just got my shogun back from repair yesterday, I'll try and do some tests soon. In setting it up I can tell you that some camera features are not available while the shogun is plugged in, like white balance. But ISO and shutter speed are available, and I assume aperture control as well, but I'm using pl lenses right now so that's not an option anyways.

if you could setup a shot on a tripod that introduces banding and macroblocking issues, such as for example a white wall next to a window that is a little underexposed with gradual fall off of the light on the wall, to compare the internal vs 10-Bit 4:2:2 shogun that would be great. I would assume it makes no difference since the output of the nx1 is not 10bit 4:2:2 but would be interesting to check and compare.

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Do you think it is necessary to export/import video after denoising?

I mean that if the Neat video is at the top in Effects and below is eg. Lumetri then the result should be same as export of denoised video and then import for grading (It think that in this case - Premiere firstly denoise video and then apply other effects in one task). You can avoid another compression. Am I correct? 

no do it all in one go. Denoise,grade,render

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if you could setup a shot on a tripod that introduces banding and macroblocking issues, such as for example a white wall next to a window that is a little underexposed with gradual fall off of the light on the wall, to compare the internal vs 10-Bit 4:2:2 shogun that would be great. I would assume it makes no difference since the output of the nx1 is not 10bit 4:2:2 but would be interesting to check and compare.

If the output is clean uncompressed, macroblocking should not be an issue other than whatever the shogun does.

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if you could setup a shot on a tripod that introduces banding and macroblocking issues, such as for example a white wall next to a window that is a little underexposed with gradual fall off of the light on the wall, to compare the internal vs 10-Bit 4:2:2 shogun that would be great. I would assume it makes no difference since the output of the nx1 is not 10bit 4:2:2 but would be interesting to check and compare.

yesterday I actually did a test, though not a comparison. I didn't notice macro blocking as an issue, but banding was terrible... Which was very disappointing. I wasn't expecting to get the same latitude as I was on my a7s, but after dialing my settings in I felt I was really close... But the banding is terrible (though it appeared very tolerable on the flat image before i started grading) which makes the really low contrast settings on the nx1 good for really only a few types of scenes. I'll upload a picture that's "raw" and one "graded" in a couple of minutes for you to see. 

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I was playing around with the camera today and noticed at the same exposure settings when using 16-255 and especially 16-235 the camera doesn't display the same highlight clipping as it does when using 0-255. My overexposure guide (zebras) were going nuts then I switched to 16-235 and poof no more clipping at the same exposure. Has anyone else noticed this ?! From my understanding you are not supoosed to be gaining any DR by switching the luminance I am very confused right now !

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Ok here are some grabs from the scene. In some cases the banding I would honestly say is "acceptable" though not ideal.. and maybe thats just me being a little generous.

The grade contains about 60% of neat video denoising, which is more aggressive than what I really ever use. I was hoping it would help mitigate some of the banding problems.. and it does to some limited extent.

Jpegs:

NX1_Color_Test_Wide.thumb.jpg.4f6abedd7fNX1_Color_Test_Wide_Graded.thumb.jpg.dccNX1_Color_Test_Close.thumb.jpg.f67c14bf4NX1_Color_Test_Close_Graded.thumb.jpg.f1NX1_Color_Test_SideL.thumb.jpg.bf97f111dNX1_Color_Test_SideL_Graded.thumb.jpg.8b

Tiffs for better viewing:

 NX1_Color_Test_Close.tif

 NX1_Color_Test_Close_Graded.tif

 NX1_Color_Test_SideL.tif

 NX1_Color_Test_SideL_Graded.tif

 NX1_Color_Test_Wide.tif

 NX1_Color_Test_Wide_Graded.tif

Camera settings as follows:

Gamma DR, Contrast -10, Sharpness -10, Saturation -4, MBL +10, range is 16-235

Shogun set to capture in ProRes HQ

Now I'm definitely a noob to this camera (thus the testing) so I must ask, is there some other setting somewhere that I need to make sure is adjusted properly? Like a picture profile or something? HDMI is set to 3840x2160 (24) clean out.

Tomorrow I'm going to try the test again. I'll shoot/edit quickly to test different settings. What values of above should I change? I am planning on dropping contrast to 0 (I actually did drop it to -5 to test one shot, and the banding was still prevalent) and adjust MBL closer to 0, which seems a shame because in my earlier tests (as posted in this thread) I was able to get a TON of usable detail out of the shadows... but the banding just might not be worth it.

Also maybe you can edit the tiffs to have less banding, if so, how?

Please share your thoughts.

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From looking at your originals, I think you have your Saturation turned down to far. 

My personal settings: 

Gamma DR

Saturation - 1

Sharpness - 10

Contrast - 6

Black Level + 5

 

But I do think banding is an issue when it comes to grade. This is the best settings I have found so far for the camera.

 

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