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Your ideal NX1 Settings


Geoff CB
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Gamma DR at default settings except -10 sharpness. Worked out really well actually. Next test will be standard profile at default saturation & contrast and after that with reduced to saturation. This test showed me default saturation with gamma dr eliminated the banding in the skies (blue channel).

The impulz Cineon conversion LUT really gave the image a nice base to start with pulling all the deep shadow detail and highlight detail into a usable range with its LOG conversion then James Miller set4 converted it from LOG to a beautiful rec709.

my grading preference is faded shadows but I can assure you the waveform and vectorscopes showed true detail in the blacks.  Next issue I need to tackle is the damn in camera sharpness. Im gonna take another shot at lens diffusion even though I didn't have much luck the last time. I used gaussian blur over filmconvert grain to try and blend the grain into the image to counter the cameras noise reduction and sharpening.

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That middle shot, between the sky, the water, and the sand, must have been a zebra nightmare. 

jeeeesus Christ it sure was ! Now I just put the overexposure blinkie thingie on and expose just riiight before it starts blinking and I get a good dynamic range in gamma dr mode.

Sidenote I think I can get a better quality file using the default picture styles. I figure if h.264 and h.265 codecs have troubles with low contrast why not make the image contrasty ? as you see here the nx cameras can recover the shadows and highs pretty well :-D

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jeeeesus Christ it sure was ! Now I just put the overexposure blinkie thingie on and expose just riiight before it starts blinking and I get a good dynamic range in gamma dr mode.

Sidenote I think I can get a better quality file using the default picture styles. I figure if h.264 and h.265 codecs have troubles with low contrast why not make the image contrasty ? as you see here the nx cameras can recover the shadows and highs pretty well :-D

I still really like your Vivid settings. I have been mostly using the G7 lately but I had the NX500 out the other day and that Vivid with contrast at 0 looks sweet. 

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I'm thinking that could be it ! Well Ken Rockwell praises the Canon FD L set I use to be sharp and contrasty (which they are) but idk they have a different characteristic than modern lenses. It's a mystery. But yeah default settings across the board ! I'm going to try to use the standard profiles but with the gamme DR things that looked saturated to my eye were not oversaturated when I looked at the scopes. I threw impulz visionspace LUT at it and it brought the superwhites and deep blacks into a usable range revealing that this camera has a lot of hidden data in both extremes of the histogram. Agreed though...I am living by these vintage lenses...I don't even use diffusion filtration anymore to control my contrast with the nx1

I think that cinema5d test was flawed as fuck to be honest. They went with -10 contrast (big no no) AND included the smart dr thingie in the test. Dude every filmmaker knows to stay away from those in camera settings that promise extra DR. I haven't done cinematic tests but I think my DR in gamma DR mode at default settings is giving me something equal to sony a7s cine2 & 4 profiles. The standard picture profiles are equal (to my eye) to the a7s autumn picture style that people are using now. Only so much you can do with 8 bit's anyway. Again that cinema5d test is flawed

Dont you use the Smart Rd option in the Samsung NX1? I though it gives you a little bit more in the highlights.  Thanks. 

jeeeesus Christ it sure was ! Now I just put the overexposure blinkie thingie on and expose just riiight before it starts blinking and I get a good dynamic range in gamma dr mode.

Sidenote I think I can get a better quality file using the default picture styles. I figure if h.264 and h.265 codecs have troubles with low contrast why not make the image contrasty ? as you see here the nx cameras can recover the shadows and highs pretty well :-D

 Hey man, I love your grading. Do you switch the smart Range+ off? which value for the black pedestal do you normally use.

Some wine store I found, the christmas display was gorgeous so I just had to film it. This was graded with my previous settings that I posted (the wedding one), barely had to tweak !

Wow, That looks stunning. Which settings and Luts did you use? Ive been trying to get something like that look for a while. Thanks. 

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Dont you use the Smart Rd option in the Samsung NX1? I though it gives you a little bit more in the highlights.  Thanks. 

 

 Hey man, I love your grading. Do you switch the smart Range+ off? which value for the black pedestal do you normally use.

I don't use the smart range or any auto feature bro ! You should stay away from those on any camera. There's no free lunch if you gain something you sacrifice another. I dont use master pedestal because you are clipping data in the shadows but to our eyes it looks flatter. Big no no. I shoot with gamma dr with -10 sharpness or my vivid setting :-)

I still really like your Vivid settings. I have been mostly using the G7 lately but I had the NX500 out the other day and that Vivid with contrast at 0 looks sweet. 

hmmm you know what...i'll dedicate my next day of testing to the vivid setting to see if we can squeeze a lil more out of that profile. I'll let you know the results of course ! 

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Well, since there is basically no useful info on the net about video smart range on these cameras, I made a quick test with my nx500.

Basically the exposure is lowered by about 0.4-0.6 stops. So let's say I set shutter to 1/50. With dr on I get iso 250, with dr off I get 400. Now there is something odd about its behaviour. With dr on the clip starts darker but it gradually gains brightness, in about 5 seconds to about the same brightness level as dr off. A bit brighter even I'd say based on my 2 quick tests.

But the highlights gain less brightness than the rest. Based on my initial impression you get a bit flatter image, and I haven't noticed any bad side effects. I didn't test in challenging conditions that might create banding (so the question remains if this method is better than reducing contrast or not). This is with nx500 which doesn't have gamma dr.

I wouldn't write it off just yet, may be pretty useful for nx500 users.

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Well, since there is basically no useful info on the net about video smart range on these cameras, I made a quick test with my nx500.

Basically the exposure is lowered by about 0.4-0.6 stops. So let's say I set shutter to 1/50. With dr on I get iso 250, with dr off I get 400. Now there is something odd about its behaviour. With dr on the clip starts darker but it gradually gains brightness, in about 5 seconds to about the same brightness level as dr off. A bit brighter even I'd say based on my 2 quick tests.

But the highlights gain less brightness than the rest. Based on my initial impression you get a bit flatter image, and I haven't noticed any bad side effects. I didn't test in challenging conditions that might create banding (so the question remains if this method is better than reducing contrast or not). This is with nx500 which doesn't have gamma dr.

I wouldn't write it off just yet, may be pretty useful for nx500 users.

could be worth looking into especially since you guys dont have the gamma dr option :-( . I'm still looking for a picture profile we can "optimize" for video

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Another re-edit :

WyJb13z.jpg

I realized, I stopped taking pictures almost completely, and instead use only framegrabs...The quality is simply outstanding, and quite honestly, the gap between photo and video has become so thin, its barely noticeable.

damn thats a great shot ! The flare and the tone of the colors are amazing 

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So, the smart range on gives at leas 1/2 stop advantage in the highlights. Fairly useful but hard to say if it's better than underexposing and doing stuff in post (it totally should because this step is done before encoding in camera, not after).

However when shooting in 1080p I noticed a severe lack of detail at iso 400 (not that high) compare to the 640 of the smart range off. I'm still investigating. But I was surprised how bad 1080p looks on nx500. Anything above iso 100 is smeared to hell and blotchy noise also present. Considering my test was static, at 60mbps it should absolutely not be an encoding issue, but very poor processing (unless the processing is really that poor, I mean the stream is formed of one I-frame followed by 11 (ELEVEN) consecutive B-frames. Someone at Samsung forgot about P-frames, 11 consecutive bframes is a serious problem, anything above 2 is only for low movement that is properly dithered).

 

Does anyone have any 1080p NX1 footage at iso 400 to 1000 or so and can upload? I have a feeling the video processing on nx500 is pretty damn bad.

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So, the smart range on gives at leas 1/2 stop advantage in the highlights. Fairly useful but hard to say if it's better than underexposing and doing stuff in post (it totally should because this step is done before encoding in camera, not after).

However when shooting in 1080p I noticed a severe lack of detail at iso 400 (not that high) compare to the 640 of the smart range off. I'm still investigating. But I was surprised how bad 1080p looks on nx500. Anything above iso 100 is smeared to hell and blotchy noise also present. Considering my test was static, at 60mbps it should absolutely not be an encoding issue, but very poor processing (unless the processing is really that poor, I mean the stream is formed of one I-frame followed by 11 (ELEVEN) consecutive B-frames. Someone at Samsung forgot about P-frames, 11 consecutive bframes is a serious problem, anything above 2 is only for low movement that is properly dithered).

 

Does anyone have any 1080p NX1 footage at iso 400 to 1000 or so and can upload? I have a feeling the video processing on nx500 is pretty damn bad.

I read here that smart range off does give any actual benefit. I dont know if that's true but I'm interested on knowing more about it. 

damn thats a great shot ! The flare and the tone of the colors are amazing 

Another re-edit :

WyJb13z.jpg

I realized, I stopped taking pictures almost completely, and instead use only framegrabs...The quality is simply outstanding, and quite honestly, the gap between photo and video has become so thin, its barely noticeable.

Great shot!! Which Lut did you use for this Ricardo? 

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So, the smart range on gives at leas 1/2 stop advantage in the highlights. Fairly useful but hard to say if it's better than underexposing and doing stuff in post (it totally should because this step is done before encoding in camera, not after).

However when shooting in 1080p I noticed a severe lack of detail at iso 400 (not that high) compare to the 640 of the smart range off. I'm still investigating. But I was surprised how bad 1080p looks on nx500. Anything above iso 100 is smeared to hell and blotchy noise also present. Considering my test was static, at 60mbps it should absolutely not be an encoding issue, but very poor processing (unless the processing is really that poor, I mean the stream is formed of one I-frame followed by 11 (ELEVEN) consecutive B-frames. Someone at Samsung forgot about P-frames, 11 consecutive bframes is a serious problem, anything above 2 is only for low movement that is properly dithered).

 

Does anyone have any 1080p NX1 footage at iso 400 to 1000 or so and can upload? I have a feeling the video processing on nx500 is pretty damn bad.

Even in NX1 is 1080p mode very much sensitive on ISO/framerate. 

My experience (I had always smart range ON but I have not make any comparsion how it affect image quality):

1080p60 - maximum usable ISO for me is ISO 400 and everything above is "smeared to hell and blotchy"

1080p120 - maximum for me is ISO 200. Decrease in quality is visible even on A7SII and GH4, still NX1 seems to be best even on ISO 1600 - see here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ek2l3d6hVQ0

4k30p - fine and no problem here - everything is quite as expected. Image become little smeared since ISO 1600

Summary - I use 1080p modes only with fast lenses or in bright light... 

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Even in NX1 is 1080p mode very much sensitive on ISO/framerate. 

My experience (I had always smart range ON but I have not make any comparsion how it affect image quality):

1080p60 - maximum usable ISO for me is ISO 400 and everything above is "smeared to hell and blotchy"

1080p120 - maximum for me is ISO 200. Decrease in quality is visible even on A7SII and GH4, still NX1 seems to be best even on ISO 1600 - see here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ek2l3d6hVQ0

4k30p - fine and no problem here - everything is quite as expected. Image become little smeared since ISO 1600

Summary - I use 1080p modes only with fast lenses or in bright light... 

agreed on most. If used 1080@100fps (pal) you can go up to iso 400, imo.

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agreed on most. If used 1080@100fps (pal) you can go up to iso 400, imo.

i think the cure could be to blur out fine details with a edge based diffusion filter. It worked for the Gh2 and helped it compress details better maybe it could help the nx1. Shallow dof in slow mo gives the nx1 way better compression at all iso's...because there are less details to compress

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Did an interview today, basic settings most people discuss here. Nikkor 28-70 2.8 at 70-ish/2.8 (room was too tight for my fave people lens, the 85 1.8 - or to get much separation from the BG). Haven't started an edit yet, but amped the DR flatness back up in Photoshop here. Very nice camera to use for these sorts of gigs, and though i recorded audio with an external, the line-out fed into the Samsung sounds fine, so no synching needed. I do think an attenuating cable will be in my bag next, the Samsung's pre's are pretty hot.

I really like Nikkors and such on this sensor - from wide open to F4/5.6 or so, they really sand off the hard edges nicely. Waiting for my FL adapter - I have some 1960's Canon glass to test… I may get a full set together if I like 'em. 

I do miss that Nikon sensor sort of "coolness" to the shadows… may play with that in post. Really had a lovely 3D-ish look sometimes.

rachel.jpg

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Did an interview today, basic settings most people discuss here. Nikkor 28-70 2.8 at 70-ish/2.8 (room was too tight for my fave people lens, the 85 1.8 - or to get much separation from the BG). Haven't started an edit yet, but amped the DR flatness back up in Photoshop here. Very nice camera to use for these sorts of gigs, and though i recorded audio with an external, the line-out fed into the Samsung sounds fine, so no synching needed. I do think an attenuating cable will be in my bag next, the Samsung's pre's are pretty hot.

I really like Nikkors and such on this sensor - from wide open to F4/5.6 or so, they really sand off the hard edges nicely. Waiting for my FL adapter - I have some 1960's Canon glass to test… I may get a full set together if I like 'em. 

I do miss that Nikon sensor sort of "coolness" to the shadows… may play with that in post. Really had a lovely 3D-ish look sometimes.

rachel.jpg

agreed, nikkor lenses render BEAUTIFULLY on the nx1 sensor 

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agreed, nikkor lenses render BEAUTIFULLY on the nx1 sensor 

not just the nx1 sensor obviously ;) used the 28-70 2.8 on my a7s and it was beautiful.

anyways this thread has been enlightening. i'm in the process of finding where i like the settings and recently did a test with 2 very contrasty scenes (interior and exterior) and I'm blown away with the shadow detail that this camera retains... it keeps it much cleaner than on the a7s (which is why we'd always ettr).

don't judge me too much! these were scenes designed to push the video capabilities in post, and see what kind of image I could recover, not necessarily to be beautiful.

here are a few screen grabs:

nx1_test_int2.thumb.jpg.04a296f1744f324f

nx1_test_int1.thumb.jpg.7cbc44eae6d9890e

nx1_test_ext1.thumb.jpg.88324472318d18d1

nx1_test_ext2.thumb.jpg.c341db8c3625164a

 

settings are as follow:

gamma dr. sharpness -10, contrast -10, sat -4, black level +10

internally, this might be a bit aggressive. there is some banding on the walls of the interior shots (which were heavily underexposed btw), but i'll test it again with the shogun on saturday and see if the extra 422 helps with that.

the lenses were second gen sony cinealtas... and are almost too sharp with how much this camera sharpens. i should add to try and mitigate some of that i shot through 1/4 HWBMF

 

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not just the nx1 sensor obviously ;) used the 28-70 2.8 on my a7s and it was beautiful.

anyways this thread has been enlightening. i'm in the process of finding where i like the settings and recently did a test with 2 very contrasty scenes (interior and exterior) and I'm blown away with the shadow detail that this camera retains... it keeps it much cleaner than on the a7s (which is why we'd always ettr).

don't judge me too much! these were scenes designed to push the video capabilities in post, and see what kind of image I could recover, not necessarily to be beautiful.

here are a few screen grabs:

nx1_test_int2.thumb.jpg.04a296f1744f324f

nx1_test_int1.thumb.jpg.7cbc44eae6d9890e

nx1_test_ext1.thumb.jpg.88324472318d18d1

nx1_test_ext2.thumb.jpg.c341db8c3625164a

 

settings are as follow:

gamma dr. sharpness -10, contrast -10, sat -4, black level +10

internally, this might be a bit aggressive. there is some banding on the walls of the interior shots (which were heavily underexposed btw), but i'll test it again with the shogun on saturday and see if the extra 422 helps with that.

the lenses were second gen sony cinealtas... and are almost too sharp with how much this camera sharpens. i should add to try and mitigate some of that i shot through 1/4 HWBMF

 

you are right about the sharpness. Idk if it's cause of the debayering from 6.5k or in camera sharpness but I needed a max grade diffusion filter to cut down sharpness

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