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grading the Samsung NX1


kidzrevil
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I recently picked up the Samsung NX1 but I'm not even gonna bother writing a review till we get some native support from Adobe Premiere. These transcoding apps are trash....some just less trash than others. I don't think anyone will see the true potential of the raw files especially during the grading process until we get that support.

Anyway here are a couple of clips I have graded using the Gamma DR profile. I am starting to think we shouldn't touch the contrast slider, maybe the saturation but I would personally just stick with the default settings with sharpness all the way down. What I have noticed recently and I will post it in another topic is that even though gamma dr is flatter in the shadows and midtones the highlight roll off isn't too good it hard clips even more so than the standard gamma profile. This makes sense to me because all the picture profiles do in almost any camera is adjust the curve to prioritize shadow,mids and highlights in its own unique way but it's gonna clip at the same point. Knowing this I see that the standard picture profiles do not hard clip the same way, it appears to be a smoother roll off from the mids into the highlights. What I have been doing is using a black pro mist to reduce contrast slightly and give my footage a better roll off into the highlights. It also has the effect of muting colors especially with the warm black pro mist that I used here which actually absorbs colors in the blue channel although at the expense of maybe 1/3 of a stop of light transmission.

Long story short I am going to try and play around with using the standard profile and just reducing sharpness and see if my diffusion filter gives me better roll off.

nx1 witch.jpg

look.jpg

sony a7 what.jpg

samsung nx1 2.jpg

sillhouette.jpg

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Looks great. The NX500 is the same way. I have done extensive testing and contrast at default 0 is the best. Tweaking contrast too much messes up the colors... At least to my eye.  I tick saturation down to -4 and sharpness dialed all the way. 

Have you tried EditReady? I think it does a pretty good job. Of course I convert to 1080p prores. I think it gives the footage a little more weight. 

Black pro must is a good idea... Hmm.

Anyway, your shots look wicked. You should make a video showing your coloring workflow. 

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Looks great. The NX500 is the same way. I have done extensive testing and contrast at default 0 is the best. Tweaking contrast too much messes up the colors... At least to my eye.  I tick saturation down to -4 and sharpness dialed all the way. 

Have you tried EditReady? I think it does a pretty good job. Of course I convert to 1080p prores. I think it gives the footage a little more weight. 

Black pro must is a good idea... Hmm.

Anyway, your shots look wicked. You should make a video showing your coloring workflow. 

thank you ! I'll look into editready but I'm using Windows 10 so you know...options are limited lol ! I haven't shot charts or anything but it seems we arrived at the same conclusion LEAVE THE CONTRAST ALONE ! Good idea on the coloring workflow tutorial, once I test the hardware out some more I will. I don't wanna give people the wrong info

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thank you ! I'll look into editready but I'm using Windows 10 so you know...options are limited lol ! I haven't shot charts or anything but it seems we arrived at the same conclusion LEAVE THE CONTRAST ALONE ! Good idea on the coloring workflow tutorial, once I test the hardware out some more I will. I don't wanna give people the wrong info

Yeah, I think EditReady is Mac only. I am no authority on the nx500. I have had more failures than successes, but I think I'm finally STARTING to get the hang of it. When it's right, the image is effin beautiful. 

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Yeah, I think EditReady is Mac only. I am no authority on the nx500. I have had more failures than successes, but I think I'm finally STARTING to get the hang of it. When it's right, the image is effin beautiful. 

same with the NX1 I think sometimes the challenge in getting things right in camera is the most rewarding part LOL ! I think these Samsungs are just one of these cameras that you dial the sharpness down and treat each picture profile as a type of film stock and just shoot. No tweaking just get it close to the end result as possible in camera

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You can use FFmpeg, it's free and works great. It has a simple command line, like to convert H.265 to ProRes, you just say: ffmpeg -i foo.mp4 -vcodec prores foo.mov. I wrote a simple batch file on Windows 10 that I drag all the files onto, and it converts them in one shot. Real easy. If you prefer a UI, you can use wrappers like Rocky Mountains, but it's still FFmpeg underneath.

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What WB setting do you use? With the NX500, I was using the baked in settings, but then I got lazy and started using AWB. I tried Kelvin, but I need a lot more practice for that precision. Recently, I tried the AWB + Tungsten. It seems to work pretty good, does the NX1 have that? If so, do you know its purpose?

Also, how do you get that cool haze in your grades? It gives your images that smoky, vintage look. 

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What WB setting do you use? With the NX500, I was using the baked in settings, but then I got lazy and started using AWB. I tried Kelvin, but I need a lot more practice for that precision. Recently, I tried the AWB + Tungsten. It seems to work pretty good, does the NX1 have that? If so, do you know its purpose?

Also, how do you get that cool haze in your grades? It gives your images that smoky, vintage look. 

im staying AWAY from the Kelvin white balance and I am sticking to a grey card for custom white balance. If I am doing run & gun I will use the preset white balance and adjust them with the color shift. I had two different temperature light sources going and the kelvin white balance was jumping between a huge green tint and back to magenta it was weird.

 

About the look you can either use diffusion filters like the black pro mist or raise your black levels in post  

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im staying AWAY from the Kelvin white balance and I am sticking to a grey card for custom white balance. If I am doing run & gun I will use the preset white balance and adjust them with the color shift. I had two different temperature light sources going and the kelvin white balance was jumping between a huge green tint and back to magenta it was weird.

 

About the look you can either use diffusion filters like the black pro mist or raise your black levels in post  

I had the same problem with using Kelvin WB. Unfortunately the tint still changes like on Auto WB. I use the Daylight, Cloudy, etc. now and change the hue myself to suite the scene. As for Gamma DR I've actually been ADDING contrast to get a closer in-camera look. I will try leaving the contrast alone and keeping everything else the same (Sharpness all the way down, saturation -2 or -3) and see what happens.

Also, your framegrabs look awesome!

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I had the same problem with using Kelvin WB. Unfortunately the tint still changes like on Auto WB. I use the Daylight, Cloudy, etc. now and change the hue myself to suite the scene. As for Gamma DR I've actually been ADDING contrast to get a closer in-camera look. I will try leaving the contrast alone and keeping everything else the same (Sharpness all the way down, saturation -2 or -3) and see what happens.

Also, your framegrabs look awesome!

thank you ! I added +5 contrast and -2 saturation and had good results. Honestly though I am staying away from gamma dr unless I can comfortably underexpose by 0.6. The highlight roll off is terrible but when you are able to capture them it's great. Sticking to standard with everything at default and -10 sharpness

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You can use FFmpeg, it's free and works great. It has a simple command line, like to convert H.265 to ProRes, you just say: ffmpeg -i foo.mp4 -vcodec prores foo.mov. I wrote a simple batch file on Windows 10 that I drag all the files onto, and it converts them in one shot. Real easy. If you prefer a UI, you can use wrappers like Rocky Mountains, but it's still FFmpeg underneath.

Is it any faster compared to RM?

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Is it any faster compared to RM?

Sandro, Rocky Mountains is just a wrapper, it doesn't convert anything: it simply presents a convenient interface to gather what to needs to be done and then calls FFmpeg under the covers. Since it's FFmpeg doing the conversion, the time will be the same whether you call FFmpeg through Rocky Mountains or directly call it as I do. I see little benefit to using Rocky Mountains (or other wrappers) and find it much more convenient to directly use FFmpeg since it's a single step: drag all the files onto the FFmpeg icon, done.

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