kye

I saved the function that re-saves the custom config to the user shortcuts menu just for that purpose! But yes, I take your point

It's complicated, absolutely, but that's why there are the custom modes. The P4K let's you change settings really easily, but to me you wouldn't need to change those settings that often, except if you were changing shooting scenarios, which is where the C modes on the GH5 come into play. I have C1 set to normal 5K shooting (5K 4:3 25p), C2 set for normal 4K shooting (4K 16:9 25p), and C3 as the slow motion modes, with C3-1 as 4K50, and C3-2 as 1080 120fps. I have the buttons and dials setup how I want them and so just shoot, only having to pay attention to focus and exposure, which are mapped to the same controls on all profiles. I literally just set the dial to which lens choice I want, turn on the camera, set the mode dial to the shooting mode I want, and then shoot. To go from shooting 24p to shooting 120fps on the P4K would require changing the resolution, frame rate and shutter, but is one click of a dial on the GH5 if you've set it up already. It's funny you say that you're always wondering if you got everything right, but I use the C modes because I know that I won't get everything right in the moment but programmed it well so I don't have to worry

I know you're talking and saying stuff but now that you've changed your avatar all I can hear is "a spooooon full of sugaaaaaaaaar helps the medicine go doooown!"....???

If you're a Mac user, there's a tool called Activity Monitor and in it you want to enable the CPU History and GPU History from the Windows menu. That will bring up graphs that show how much each of them is doing. Then you try and use Resolve and see what the graphs are doing. Typically you'll either see the CPU graphs (one graph per core) all at maximum while the video card isn't maxed out, or it will be the other way around. On PC I'm not sure what the tool is, but I think Windows will have something equivalent? Maybe someone else with a PC can help out here.. However, all of this is to work out what the bottleneck is, which will just tell you what hardware you have to upgrade. Back in Resolve, try reducing the timeline resolution, engaging Playback -> Proxy Mode, or disabling any colour grading you have done. To test if it's your disk drive (and assuming you're not editing off an SSD already) try copying the clips to an SSD and editing them. With multi-cam you're asking the computer to read and process multiple video clips at once, so if you have high-bitrate low-resolution clips (eg, 1080p clips) then reading the files off the HDD might be the bottleneck.

No ideas, but have you looked at your CPU/GPU/HDD usage and seen where the bottlenecks are? I can't find it, but I swear I read somewhere that DR16 moved a lot of processing from CPU to GPU so maybe that's what's causing your issues?

Just an idea, and not sure if it will work, but aren't there media players that will let you install a LUT? Like, if you put the free false-colour LUT into VLC and looked at it that way?

Now the P6K is with us, I think this changes the landscape a bit for the hotly anticipated cameras like GH6, A7Siii, etc. From my own perspective, I think the following improvements over a GH5 would be 'enough' to sell a bunch of them: Built-in ND that can be controlled by auto-exposure Being able to set the camera to a set aperture, a set shutter speed, and then having auto-ISO and auto-ND control the exposure for me would be spectacular. Higher bitrates / resolutions This would be some combination of: RAW 4K, 6K 16:9, and "8K-like" 4:3 anamorphic mode. Mix-and-match codecs and bitrates and framerates Being able to choose from any combination of bitrate (eg. 100/150/200/300/400/600/800Mbps), and codec (H264/H265), and frame rate (1/2/4/7/10/23.976/24/25/30/50/60/HFR) that the hardware is capable of would be great. Low framerates are great for time lapses or special effects too. Better stabilisation Not sure if better IBIS is possible, but adding a GoPro/OsmoPocket type EIS on top of IBIS would allow great SOOC clips in difficult situations. For bonus points, having a removable mount so you can either have MFT and use adapters, or go EF or Nikon if you wanted to (and maybe a S35 sensor with the smarts to know what lens is attached and adapt appropriately). Better low-light / dual-ISOs wouldn't go astray either. The GH5 is a workhorse, so keeping the ergonomics and practicality / reliability but adding an ND, bumping up the image, and making it more customisable would be spectacular. I am a very happy GH5 user, and when I look at the P4K I think "No thanks, I don't want the huge data rates of RAW, but I do need IBIS", and when I look at the P6K I think "No thanks, I almost have 6K, but I do need IBIS". The GH5 was released in early-2017 and is still winning against late-2019 cameras. Assuming that the GH6 is released early-2020 and needs to still be winning against late-2022 cameras, it will need these things, although they're not out of reach technically, it just needs a company willing to put them all into a camera, and Panasonic has a track record of that.

Absolutely! Couldn't agree more.. ???

I agree. I'm curious to hear how you interpret that phrase. One thing I read (that was talking about that phrase) was that at the time most lenses were sharpest at F8, and combined with the typical shooting situation (combinations of what people might shoot, which focal length they would choose to shoot it, and how far away they are likely to be) that F8 was also a practical compromise between having a deep DoF to not have focus issues but was also a combination of daylight and a large enough aperture to not have to have a really long shutter speed with ASA100, 200 (or maybe 400) film in the camera. In that sense I thought the phrase was quite practical for people who wouldn't understand the various tradeoffs that are at play. Obviously there are all kinds of nuances for the experienced photographer to explore but as soon as auto-exposure was widely available I thought the average person could turn on auto-SS, set to F8, and then they'd have pretty good results treating their SLR like a point-and-shoot camera but with MF?

I guess that depends on what primes you have - it's definitely not a replacement for the f0.95 (or faster) primes available. It's the FF equivalent of a 20-50mm F3.4 lens. Will it be a flexible length? Absolutely. Will it be a workhorse? Probably. Will it be a "prime killer"? Definitely not.

The "like everyone makes the same script" option was a real example from a short film event of some kind where the organisers wrote a script, IIRC 10 groups each made a 9 minute version of that script, and they showed them back to back in the cinema as a 90-minute film. It was great because the script was really quite vague in places, so could be interpreted in many ways. One interpretation was a Japanese horror version in a train where one of the characters was the reflection in the mirror of one of the other characters who kind of gradually went insane. Other films included radically different genres and styles, but they were all word-for-word the same script. It was quite something. Unfortunately, me, my sister and her friend were the only ones in the theatre for the session. It meant we could talk if we wanted to, but I don't know how the finances of it worked out.

That looks like a great general-purpose lens. I really like that it goes wider than ~25mm FF equivalent - my second favourite lens is a 16mm FF equiv which gives those great wides. If I could only own one lens then that one might be it, but of course, that's not the case, and I like fast primes

Kye's guide to film-making for beginners: Step One: Go somewhere cool Step Two: Point your camera at awesome stuff Step Three: Go home and edit out the boring bits Step Four: Now edit out the bits that aren't completely awesome Step Five: there is no step five - you're done. Just enjoy what you made and show it to your friends. If you don't have something awesome happening in your film, basically at all times, then the settings won't save you! I actually give this advice to people IRL. Of course, it's basically useless. The people who need to hear this won't listen, can't edit, don't have time, or refuse to learn. The people who will listen have probably already worked this out

Wow.. such a huge budget! That is a cool idea I must admit that that part of the challenge played on my mind quite a bit too ??? Cool idea, but GH2s on ebay are still pretty pricey, for those of us that don't have one already. Luckily I already own two Helios lenses AND a m42 speed booster, so naturally I would win.

The $200 camera challenge was great fun. Lots of people commented about doing something similar again. Let's talk about what that might be...

lol about differing options on photo vs video with these things! I totally agree about dream sequences or other-worldy feel, that's definitely the vibe it has. To me the photos you see with these are always models in nature which has a positive/enticing feeling, whereas I think they might better suit a distorted / closing-in / claustrophobia / descent-into-madness kind of vibe. Make all the trees rotting fast jump-cuts for confusion dark music and grim/awful colour palette and you're there with a strong aesthetic.

Doesn't help with the viewfinder or to improve the touchscreen functionality. It's a pretty weak aspect actually - adding some additional options for this would be pretty easy in software I would think. How would I go about petitioning Panasonic and would anyone actually listen/care?

Personally I don't like the aesthetic of these lenses at all, the Helios or this one, anything with directional distortions in the corners (either blurring around the centre or towards it) but I think it's different for stills photographers as that's a different vibe. But it's a taste thing and there are no wrong answers, so... What would you shoot with such a lens?

For those shooting with the 5K 4:3 mode who crop the image in post, how do you set framing properly? I know there are guide-lines that you can put up on the display, but they're so feint that my brain completely ignores them, and so I instinctively frame up in the 4:3 view and then have difficulty cropping in post because I filled the whole frame. I don't want to put tape on the screen, and can't put it on the viewfinder (which I use a lot). Is there a hidden setting somewhere that I'm not aware of that shows stronger framing guidelines, or better yet, actually blacks out the top/bottom parts of the frame to only show the aspect ratio you set? Thanks!

and now for something completely different... Just in case the Helios was too modern and soul-less for you! ???

I agree, and this is why I posted these videos... People on here seem to be perpetually confused: Canon has terrible everything, how are they still selling anything, they can't be selling anything, they're definitely not selling anything, they're doomed The future of cinema is FF P6K has EF mount, why on earth would they do that, it doesn't work for me and my preferences That Canon shooter is now interested in P6K - why didn't they love the P4K with it's MFT mount and its tiny MFT sensor Maybe the thing that is missing from the conversation is that Canon sells plenty of cameras, there are plenty of people with EF lens collections, and the EF mount was a good commercial decision to attract customers from a different segment of the market. What's surprising to me that it's surprising to anyone else.

Yeah, I find that it's either you pay a premium to Apple to make all your decisions for you, or you pay the normal amount to someone else and then you can do (almost) whatever you want but the catch is that you need to learn how everything works first. I was a computer technician for about a decade and it was kind of like you bought 90% of a working system from various manufacturers and had to figure out the remaining 10% of it yourself. My dad is very technical and concerned with privacy so doesn't use Microsoft or Apple, and uses Linux and after being forced to get a smartphone (because "there's an app for that" turned into "there's ONLY an app for that") and now runs Android in a secure little bubble inside a linux installation. It's free and secure and all he had to do was spend about a year figuring it all out and several hours a week being his own systems administrator and troubleshooting things that just break for whatever reason. No model is great, so I just think about it like it's pick the least worst and get on with your life. I use it on my Mac to put music onto my iPhone. I also use it to play music on my Mac because I had to go to all the trouble of creating all the playlists for my phone anyway. It's also good for backing up your phone.

Damn, that is nice... almost makes me want to get one. Almost.... Your screenshots in the lenses thread say otherwise. They also tell me you have perseverance, which might matter more than anything else in the end Skill is the most expensive thing to acquire - it costs time (which isn't something you can get more of) and effort (which is limited) and humility (which might be the most scarce element on earth...). If only it wasn't so!!

For anyone who might be curious what a Canon shooter would think of such a camera (and why BM might have gone EF mount) then check out Matti. and his review.... TLDR - he loves it and is completely blown away with the footage. He's bothered by the battery life and screen and usual stuff, but completely excuses it considering the cost. He also mentioned that it's the first BM camera he'd recommend to other people.