salim

Product shortage is a very plausible reason, if you think about it. If there is an official announcement and that product is sold out, DJI will lose revenue. But if there is only rumors, many buyers will continue to buy their existing product. So no reason to announce anything that will cannibalize their revenues when enough of it is not produced to meet demands. Of course very possible there might be some QA issues and DJI does not want to risk their brand and spending more money with recalls and repairs.

Depends on exposure length and how sturdy the tripod is. Anything slower than 1/5 sec, I would turn it off. 1/5 to 1/(focal length) or 1/(2xfocal length) it can help, especially with longer lenses and heads or tripod that my transfer vibration. if you have a sturdy tripod, no wind and good technique, mirror up, etc the IS would not help and it could add its own side effects.

I never argued they are going to make full frame. I Just said a secondary supplier. Maybe the XH2 will use some Samsung chip technology and leapfrog everyone else. At this point Fuji wants to do crop sensor and what they call MF.

I disagree with your conclusions. I think this mostly about mobile phones and perhaps some B2B chip solution. Most likely Samsung Galaxy S10 or S11 will have a class-leading colors and in return Samsung might become a secondary chip supplier to Fuji to help Fuji differentiate vs. Sony 6500-6700, etc. Anything beyond that is just dreaming. You underestimate what it will take for a business to return back to a failed venture that they have closed-down once. NX2 that mostly appeals to DSLR filmmakers is a niche market for Samsung. It just makes no sense. There is no money in it. Samsung wants to compete against Sony in the chip market. Even though it's going to be very competitive against Sony, is still less complicated than building an entire support structure around the world to support Samsung cameras, lenses, etc.

28/2 Both on my nikon D810 and now A7Riii I have a 28/1.8 as my main lens which I rarely remove. My eyes now see in 28 which makes me be ahead of the image.

So I just went with the number of LED lights. I'm assuming Cello and Timpani are using the same LED so LED count is what I used. I looked at the wattage and it said "maximum" usage is 120 watts. So I'm not sure if this number should be used at face value or not. Shooting ISO 800-2000 gives you a lot of options, especially if you shoot f/2. So in this case 2-4 cellos is what might all be needed. The Digital Sputnik DS 1 seems like a great choice. But I'm not sure about RGB and high intensity LEDs. Im worried the heat might degrade the RGB colors. I have no data on this, but I would be worried about that.

WOW...so B&H/Luxli have quietly released their 1X1 RGBW light (Luxli Timpani) . It's available on July 2nd. At $1000 seems like a reasonable price for a 1x1 RGBW panel with such a hight CRI color. The question for most people is, should you buy multiple Luxli cellos or 1 Timpani. Cello retails for $400. But It goes one sale some times at $300 or $350. 4 cellos at sale is about $1200 which a few more LED than a Timpani but basically close enough. So 4 Cellos will give you more flexility, the Timpani might be easier to deal with, just having one light to worry about. Either defuse it, or bounce, etc. I guess Ideal case you have one Timpani couple of Cellos and one COB light source. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1353086-REG/luxli_timpani_1x1_1x1_rgb_studio_light.html

This video confirms my comment earlier. Sony's completion is the smart phones. Especially now with dual lens phones. So Sony had to go to a 200mm lens to really differentiate. Watch this video and see how multiple times they talk about the differentiation between smart phones and this camera and why everyones should use this over their phones.

Which shows how much further the mobile phone processor manufacturers (Apple or Qualcomm) are that they can process 4k/60p and compress it like crazy without the phone melting in your hand. They've become very efficient and powerful. This makes me hopeful that you don't need to have a very large box around the processor to help with heat management, as long as you can make processor and its code more efficient and just do some creative heat sink design inside the camera around the processor you can have very capable yet compact systems.

so I was comparing Aputure 20D vs Boltzen 30 W bicolor. I picked 20D over C because I wanted more light output and since it was mostly as a kicker/ hair light, I actually preferred the lights being even a bit cooler. Plus in theory you can gel the 20D to get to 5600k or 3200K. I say in theory, because the filter for 5600K apparently bleaches. I tested the 3200K gel but I put it in the same slot as the 5600K filter spot (between the fresnel and the barn doors. And in matter of like 10 min of testing, it almost melted. You need to put those gel on the barn doors with the clip. Anyways, withe gel you lose like 1 stop so there is almost no reasons to get the 20C version IMHO. So, for the money Boltzen is a bigger bank for the buck! The Bicolor output is the same as the single color. It's really the best bicolor fresnel deal in the market. The output doesn't really change between 3200K or 5600K. There is a strange stepping between 4000K to 3200k. It almost jumps from 3600K to 3200K. But that's fine. The light is solid, no fan (for 30 W). But I returned the Botlzen and kept the Aputure 20D. For these following reasons (basically because of my specific needs). 1 - The Aputure is not as heavy as Boltzen (the heat sink is very heavy) so it's much lighter on your luggage weight limits. 2 - The light control with aperture was much better than with Boltzen. Botlzen would create these soft cut off shadows. The aputure (unfortunately more so on the flood spread of the light not on the spot range) creates fairly clean cutoff compared to Boltzen and has a tighter spot. If you're going to push the light through some soft box, with some occasional spot needs, and you're not goin to be flying with your equipment so a bit of extra weight is not an issue, Boltzen 30W (bicolor) is one of the best buys in the market so far. I would pick that no questions asked. If your needs are like me, then Aputure 20D might work better for you. The fan on the 20D comes on in matter of 10 minutes, but it's not that bad and for what I'm going to use it for, it's fine for me.

I think the competition is really the iPhone and other high-end mobile devices. The camera manufacturer still want to have a true P&S solution that provides a clear advantage over smart phones that have a 50mm equivalent cameras now. That's why Sony had to go to a 200mm lens. It's very hard to justify a 70mm lens over 50mm. With 200mm, buyers can convince themselves why the need this camera over their iPhone X. I think this was the correct move for Sony and it totally makes sense.

^^^^ USELESS!!! Do not buy this thing. I received it. I tested it on point light source as well as LED panels. I tried 3 different version of this. They don't really work well at all. So don't waste your time or money. On a different topic this guy does not a overview of portal lights that you can travel with

They also announced a new hand grip and it would have been nice to added the mic there, maybe. But yeah that mic omission is sad

Seems like a nice little pocket cinema camera https://www.sonyalpharumors.com/sony-rx100vi-press-text/

Andrew Reid has his recommended picture profile. This is to get the optimal color and image straight of these cameras. It's basically a PDF guide (and LUT for some color grading) with his recommended picture profile settings. He spent a lot of time, and quiet honestly it would take anyone endless hours to come up with the same settings. So for the price (even though it's just a profile setting formula) it's rather worth it and obviously helps this site. Here's a sample video: More about the picture profiles here: https://www.eoshd.com/2018/05/eoshd-pro-color-v4-hdr-for-the-sony-a7-iii-and-a7r-iii/#more-19196 This is where to order it: https://www.eoshd.com/purchase-and-download-pro-color-v4/

I have both...highend speakers/monitors as well as a AKG headphones with a dedicated external DAC. What kind of feedback will you bee looking for?

Been waiting for you to release this. BTW, what lens were you using in the highlight recovery sample (around 10 second mark)? The CA on this lens is horrible.

You can pre-order the Ronin-S now. It's only $699! Optimal payload of 3.6 kg. https://store.dji.com/product/ronin-s

I was unable to update the firmware on my High Sierra mac. I switched to our other machine that had Yosemite on it. But if you have High Sierra and had no luck update the firmware here's a video:

@Mmmbeats - Thanks, I'm looking at them and its CRI does not seem very high. I'm also not that crazy about internal batteries. Also, I think I saw an interview the CEO and he seemed rather snobby and turned me off toward his brand. But I'll take a look at them again. @kye - It makes a great accent, hair light, kicker, etc. Especially if you're shooting Tungsten as key and you want a cooler color for separation. It's very light and the spot is cleaner than the Boltzen. Thanks for the thought.

I have done the first portable LED test light. But I figured it might deserve it's now thread:

I've been looking to get a set of LED lights that I can travel with (fly around the world) that are versatile, high quality, powerful, not heavy and not too expensive. In this test I was comparing lights that I want to mostly use as a kicker/practical or maybe key (if I need to). The lights tested are: Boltzen bi-color 30W (3200k - 5600k), Aputure LS-mini20d (7500 k), Aputure F7 (3200k - 9500k), Luxli Viola (3000k-10000k/RGB) Test methodology: I placed all lights 3 meters from a gray card. I set my camera to center/spot meter at auto ISO. 1/50 and F/4 (this is for my needs) and then I read the iso meter. I repeated the reading a few times to ensure there are no strange anomalies. The Aputure LS-mini20d (7500 k) is lighter than the Boltzen. It has much better spot focus ability. But it has two big issues. Just during this simple testing the fan came out. Not loud but audible. However, more importantly I place the 3200k soft gel inside the slot (I guess the slot was for the 5600k hard gel) and it burned. I heard Kaleb talk about the 5600k gel bleaching. Still makes the LS-mini20d a useable kick/accent light. Since I'm planning to shoot tungsten WB and it will give me a nice shade of blue. But it makes it not as versatile as I had hoped. Otherwise it's a perfect light. The Botlzen on the other hand gives you pretty much the same output in 5600K as well as 3200K. It's more powerful on paper, but not having as good as a spot as the Aputure makes the same power but for more weight. On plus side it has not fan, but it uses a heavy heat sink which is why it's heavier. @IronFilm and @HockeyFan12 as promised here is my quick test so far. Boltzen spot: 3200k -> iso 320 5600k -> iso 250 Boltzen flood: 3200k iso 1000-1100 5600k iso 640-800 ------------------------------------------------------------ Aputure spot 7500k iso 140 5600k gel iso 250 +1gel 3200k iso 400 Aputure flood 7500K iso 640 5600k gel iso 1100 +1gel 3200k iso 1250-1600 --------------------------------------------------------- Aputure F7 5600K iso 1000 3200k iso 2000 7500K iso iso 1100 9500k iso 1250 Luxli viola 5600k iso 2500 3200k iso 2500 2 Luxli viola 3200k iso 1250 (I did this, because I'm looking at a Luxli Cello as a possible key and Cello is essentially has 2x the LEDs of the Viola). Here are some images of the shape of the light on the bookshelf where I have my gray card Boltzen full spot Boltzen flood using the barn doors to shape the light to around the book case Apurture full spot Apurture full spot with a 3200k gel on Apurture F7 Luxli Viola So this was my bad, I put the flexible 3200k conversion gel (this is for the Apurture to convert the 7500K light to 3200k) in the slot where the hard gel goes (the hard gel is to convert the light to 5600k). I only had get there long enough to do a flood and spot mode a couple of times. Maybe 5 minutes and it practically burnt right away. I'm not sure if the hard gel for the 5600K would do any better or as Kaleb Pike said in his youtube channel they got bleached. I can see that happening. Which really makes this like a 7500k light that you can use as accent/hair light etc.

These look very cool. It looks like a simple filter sheet but it focuses and controls the light. I just ordered a 10, a 10X30 and a 10X60. If these work I might not even need the fresnel options. http://www.4kshooters.net/2018/05/20/rosco-announces-opti-sculpt-filters-for-more-precise-beam-control/

@DaveAltizer - This article is a year old but seems still relevant. There is a rather recent comment there, some guy claiming he picked one up for $2000 https://***URL not allowed***/canon-c500-worth-5-learnt/

I thought about it it, but then I got the M9. I figured for the price of MX I can have 3 M9s this way I have 3 practicals. I think M9 is too bright and too heavy. One person on FB user group posted that the fit and finish was too rough and sharp and it could practically cut your hand. Ted Sims responded for something more portable he would pick the M9 himself. I think the MX has it's place, but for the price, I rather have the versatility of 3 M9s. There is the new korean company that I posted above (proFound) they have a small flexible LED that connects to the USB power source. It's just a LED cloth with a USB cable. They're not shipping yet, but that's the one I would get, if you want that flexibility.