Thpriest

My experience with the specific Metabones that you are after for M43 cameras is mixed.
The work I'm doing on my hardware focus controller for Panasonic cameras has involved me creating a calibration procedure and the number of focus points for a native M43 lens is on average around 200 depending on the lens. On an EF lens via the Metabones its less than half that. And often much less than half that. This doesn't mean that it doesn't focus necessarily just that its very coarse in its points and the camera is returning some errors from it when trying to drive it too quickly between points. 
Now, all that might not seem to necessarily matter in terms of normal operation because I'm doing something completely different with it but it does tally with what I'm seeing from it when I am using it in normal operation where it is being a bit skittish. And this is using it with a variety of lenses from Canon including some short and long L lenses as well as more lower end ones like the nifty fifty and EF-S lenses but also the Sigma 18-35 1.8. 
Optically its fine, the aperture control is fine and the AF is generally OK but I would definitely advise that you try one out with the specific lenses that you will be using it with and see if it is right for you. Unfortunately, thats tricky depending on where you are as even in London I found nowhere that I could demo one.
 

From what I have heared you need the canon mount speedbooster version if you don't want any issues, it appears that version does not require you to dial in the focal length each time you zoom. Autofocussing by halfpressing the shutter works but is reported to be slower then with native lenses. I also have the 12-35mm f2.8 which is one of those must have lenses if you are on m4/3, I also have the olympus 12-40 f2.8 which I find to be a better lens, it has a clutch focus ring which you can pull back to switch to manual focus and eventhough it still is fly by wire it feels more like a mechanical lens with very good gradual focus changes, something the 12-35mm can't do, it also has hard stops making repeatable focus pull possible. The IBIS from the camera alone is good enough to keep your shots stable since the 12-40 has no IS. When things move fast and if you work solo these zoom lenses can make a big difference compared to fully manual primes if you want to nail your focus.
 

I would ditto that, and add depending on the speed you need, that the Panny Leica 12-60 is outstanding to...and at the 35mm point only a 1/2 stop slower than the 12-35, but with a. Additional 35 mm of reach available....undoubtedly shooting with native lenses will yield more footage during a live event...plus you can have the 4K ETC enabled on a function button 12-60 changes to a 16.8-84 by pushing a function button twice!...of course you have the same crop of 1.4 to apply to the 12-35 with ETC...I've never used the 12-35 but the balance between the Camera body and 12-60 is one of the best I've ever used just in terms of feel.

Maybe you might want to look at the Aputure Lens Regain system as an alternative. It'll give you the lower light and FOV reduction and aperture control of the EF lenses and if you're used to manual focus only anyway then the focus control might be a good halfway house for you. 
Yes its essentially manual but the two programmable hard stops might work well for you for zone focusing as well as being creatively useful for focus pulls. If nothing else it will give you hands off focus control of the Sigma which is no bad thing for a few reasons with that lens.
Its a lot cheaper than the Metabones as well but its a bit bigger because of the wireless interfaces. 
I have both and if I only had to have one then, for me, the AF of the Metabones isn't impressive enough to choose it over the Aputure.

I'm a wedding shooter and just moving to GH5. Got a body by my desk and awaiting the two lenses I've ordered to arrive. I've gone for the 12-35 and 35-100 f.2.8ii models to give me the old favourite 24-70 and 70-200 equivalent. I'll be buying some Primes later in the year, probably the Leica ones. I've heard good things on the 12-60 as well. A couple of years ago I did have a GH4 with Speedbooster plus Sigma 18-35 and had issues with it. A number of times it'd cut out and just say 'lens not attached', happened during a ceremony once. Sort of lost my trust in using them, hence I've gone native glass this time.
 
I've also used the Xume adapters before and have got some for this kit. Best things I've ever purchased, makes changing NDs or filters between lenses really easy.

Thanks for all the interesting replies. 
I don't change the lenses too often especially in critical moments but I do so when things are slower. I haven't found that changing the lenses and redailing in the focal length to be a big problem. With a few touches of the joystick it's done. It's more of a problem changing the ND filter from one lens to another but my idea is to buy Xume filter rings.
For the weddings I shoot here in Spain I need fast lenses. I have even found the native 1.7 lenses to come up a bit short at times. Using the Voigtlander at 1.2-2.0 is the sweet spot when it gets darker. It's very difficult to light anything here apart from the main dance. So native zooms won't work for me. The Sigma would it was reliable enough but I see that might be a problem. Focussing at these apertures can be tricky but I use the EVF when thing get difficult and I find it excellent. 

full time freelance editor here. I bounce around at a couple different companies whose clients are the major studios. for example, I cut this piece for the mummy.
the pay is great, frankly. i have been doing this sort of work for about ten years. I have also directed two features. the most recent was distributed internationally by paramount three years ago and we're still seeing good money from it. I don't spend more than I can afford on cameras and lenses, but am fortunate to be in a pretty good financial situation. No debt at all. My wife and I do not have kids. She also happens to be a film editor so she has an appreciation for my gear lust. But yeah, short version is that I work professionally editing and directing, and some of that income supports my personal collection of camera bodies, lenses, and support gear that i use more for fun, personal side projects that keep me sane.

Try different browser. I tried on Samsung browser and it worked, even after it gave me a Wi-Fi not available message.

Yes.
Just put the camera into wifi mode, connect the Mac to its WiFi and load the HTML file into Safari 

OK...enough rambling on my part....did not want to steer you in the wrong direction lol!

You are right about shooting something almost immediately with a new camera but if I'm honest I've done it a few times (well at least after a few hours testing). I have experience of Lumix and more pro cameras. I have used Panasonic, Sony, Canon, JVC...

Yes....they are bomber...the only higher capacity cards I use (more Gigs) are 240 G SSDs...but I'm old school!...SSD is a much more robust media format...you may find with time you add a 2nd GH5 and a Shogun...you can then record in Prores HQ at 800mbs and your footage gets ridiculously good...the other seldom mentioned fact about something like a Shogun, are the exposure or focus tools...I use reading glasses, and a DP lol...but most of the stuff I see posted on the internet is out of focus...you catch focus on a GH5 and the image is amazing!...if I get funding for a feature plus a series I would pitch to Netflix, I would buy the Varicam LT, and use the GH5/Shogun as a Bcam to the Varicam LT...not the EVA1!..and I don't mean by that, as a crashcam!...but as a second camera in a 2 camera shoot...of course...image is totally subjective....you ultimately have to make up your own mind....but RELIABITY is not subjective...it's an absolute must for any paid work or narrative....I would also caution against buying the camera and shooting a wedding with it a couple of days later...you have to put in the time...this camera may be rated as a consumer level camera, but it's not...it's very much a camera for a professional.

Even all the more reason to try before you buy!...however....the combination of IBIS and the EVF pushed up against your eye will give you solid focus and extremely detailed footage...and the Voightlanders like the SlRMagics kill on this camera...forget all the mumbling about oversharpened and on and on...I repeat....this camera is extremely DETAILED!...the "negative" is very "thick" at 10bit...you are going to use the camera professionally...this camera is ridiculous at $2000!...I would also probably recommend a Tiffen pro mist 1/8 or 1/4 depending on your needs....you need to play with the picture profiles to see whether you can match to the C100 to your satisfaction...not sure I would recommend Vlog for you, but then again, you sound like you already know what you need!

I would use 4 of these instead :https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Extreme-UHS-I-Flash-Memory/dp/B005LFT3UW
the 2 card slots are hot swappable and having 4 smaller cards are more foolproof...I've used these for years, and they are the only cards I have never dropped a single frame with....to me this is another huge feature to this camera....and for extra security you can write to both cards at the same time...in that case buy 8....the media is cheap...I doubt that you'll ever need the 400mb Intra update...I would give that time for the card requirements to sort themselves out anyway...you need reliability!...you will need extra at least one extra battery too...that would give you around 4 hours of recording time...the camera boots up instantly, so you can turn it off too, but if in doubt buy 2 spare batteries, as they take a while to charge...I would buy Panasonic batteries...and lastly...I have never had a Panasonic camera fail on any project....period!...and as you know, "hell knows no fury as that of a Bride who does not get her wedding footage!!"

I can see what you're thinking, however Arri Alexas and Mini's are not the same target market as the C300, C200 etc. 
Also Canon have a huge line of DSLR, mirrorless and compact cameras that shoot video, where Arri do not. 
I own an FS5, and the B-camera (for a videographer) to the FS5 is not an FS5. Sony have made a bunch of smaller mirrorless cameras that exclusively do a few things brilliantly (low light, IBIS, autofocus, compact and powerful) and it's likely the FS5 user will buy 1, 2 or even 3 of these to make up the pack. 
The C200 is in a similar ballpark. So when someone like myself is intrigued by the prospect of going to the C200... I start to think about my other camera bodies too. That's where the intrigue hits a wall. Maybe a 5D Mk IV and XC10/15 will do, but we're missing a lot of features here now that we had before with Sony.
It really depends on what's most important. 
 
 

I've been asked by Private Message regarding using the higher ISO's in recording.
Ordinarily, the extended ISOs are for stills only but there is a way round it for G7 owners at least.
On the GX80 it is always clamped at 6400 irrespective, so when you go into video mode it will always revert to this setting if you have an ISO set above that.
On the G7 however, if I instigate the recording with my controller then I can then change it beyond 6400 and it will accept it.
I have a trick with the hardware controller so that when you put it in record it re-sends the currently set ISO so if you have it on 12800 on the controller it will record a tiny fragment at 6400 but then switch to the 12800
If you want to try this manually you can by just putting your G7 in record at 6400 and sending the higher ISO command form a browser.
My feeling is that this will probably work for other cameras too (except the GX80 where it definitely doesn't) so if you can test it and let people know that would be great.
 
 
With regard to asking questions by Private Message - and please do not take this the wrong way as I'm really pleased this has sparked so much interest - but can I just ask that people put them in here instead, as to me this should very much be a community project so everyone will benefit from the shared information and there is a much broader range of model variants represented here that people can share the testing on as well.
Ta

The GH5 has the chunkiest 10bit files I've ever seen for $2000. Some of the lenses are even more of a bargain.
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Great video. A lot of work went into that. amazing what you can do with a GX80 and a bit of imagination!

Great video. A lot of work went into that. amazing what you can do with a GX80 and a bit of imagination!

Hello. Here is my new music video, shot mainly with Lumix GX80. And also with DJI Phantom 3 and B-Cam Canon 70D.
 

Haha, yeah I guess but maybe the second child will be the child we always really wanted...
If at first you don't succeed, try, try again.

I think I must've meant 18-200 
So we can downgrade that to merely massive and very very expensive!  
I did actually have some rational basis for how that could be achieved but I'm fucked if I can remember what it is now.
 

I hope that Canon doesn't drop the XC_* line. My XC-10 is a little marvel of right compromises.
Wish list is quite simple:
a) Servo zoom (could be an add-on with its own batteries)
b) A wider and faster lens
c) A more complex flash shoe (with audio and HDMI video out) plus a bottom strip with all i/o plus power.
So you would have:
a) XC-10 plus add-on servo
b) XC-15 Never understood the concept
c) XC-20 (the 10, plus the servo and I/O)
d) XC-30 with a wider-faster servo lens and the I/O
The price point is easy to figure out, both the XC-10 and 15 drop by 500$USD
And the new 20 is a couple of hundred more than the XC-10 while the 30 is a $1,000
Stretching the wish list would be a bare XC with a mount, only an on/off button, no side-grip. Only a HDMI and USB plus a back or under plate for batteries and holes galore. Controlled by wi-fi or USB. At $3,000 it would make a killing as an expendable camera.
Going against the Canon faith would be to add support to the new hi-speed SD card, but this is asking too much.

This kind of match making has already produced the unexpected outcome called the XC10/15.

C200 looks great -DPAF, Canon colour science and internal RAW.  Now if only Canon can put DPAF and internal RAW into the XC20.