gt3rs

A couple where the motion blur makes them more interesting. 24fps 1/50.





 

It depends on the scene, sometime it works well and sometime not but you can also get decent result by adding motion blur in post, here two example from this Saturday (8k RAW 60fps F2.8, 1/2000):


motion blur in Resolve


 
Btw you here you also see a bit the rolling shutter that at 15ms is not fast enough for pans to avoid making the pillars leaning...



This from yesterday 4k 24fps 1/50 F2.8 you cannot really take a picture out. You can always try to add motion blur in post but you cannot remove it. This I filmed with the 180 rule as we did not care about taking photos out.


 

A couple where the motion blur makes them more interesting. 24fps 1/50.





 

A couple where the motion blur makes them more interesting. 24fps 1/50.





 

It depends on the scene, sometime it works well and sometime not but you can also get decent result by adding motion blur in post, here two example from this Saturday (8k RAW 60fps F2.8, 1/2000):


motion blur in Resolve


 
Btw you here you also see a bit the rolling shutter that at 15ms is not fast enough for pans to avoid making the pillars leaning...



This from yesterday 4k 24fps 1/50 F2.8 you cannot really take a picture out. You can always try to add motion blur in post but you cannot remove it. This I filmed with the 180 rule as we did not care about taking photos out.


 

I tested quite extensively over the weekend, let’s start with the good:
“Enables to detect heads facing sideways or backwards, or in situations such as when wearing a helmet”
This one is not perfect but really good and for the type of filming that I do it makes a difference, first it does not lose the head when moving away but more important it works with helmets. These in the past I would have to stop down to 5.6 to keep the face in focus, now with the face tracking with helmet I can shoot at 2.8.

Screen grab, this one was almost impossible before as the focus would have been on the horse head instead of her.




this one before it would have simply lose the focus 


“Improves switching time between Video/Photo mode”
This one is much faster now, was not a big issue for me but now it should not be an issue for most people.
“Enables to change WFM size” and “Enables to change WFM/Vector scope opacity”.
This is very practical, especially on the tiny screen. Just tap the WFM and it becomes bigger, tap it again goes smaller.
 
 
Now the not so good:

Face/Helmet does not work on S&F mode so no 100/120 fps face tracking…. R5 can…
“Adds Power Saving Mode” this comes with some limitations so only 4k XAVC, but works 24 to 60fps…. and indeed it extends quite a bit the battery.
So seems all good but the implementation is a bit cumbersome as you can turn it on only when all settings matches and if you want to let say go to S&F mode 120 you cannot you need first to disable it…. T
his camera needs absolutely customs shooting modes it would make all of this so easier to go from 8K RAW 24, to XAVC save mode 24 to then XAV S&F 120 and so on…. You need to change many menu items that is insane….

For example, for this scene I wanted to quickly change to 120fps for a few seconds and then back to 24 and with power saving you cannot do it quickly....

 
Overall not much to complain Canon added quite a few of very useful features.
I hope they will further improve the camera. My wishes for the next one are customs shooting modes and face tracking in S&F 120, even better if you could select the area of the frame where face tracking is active similar to the R3.

It depends on the scene, sometime it works well and sometime not but you can also get decent result by adding motion blur in post, here two example from this Saturday (8k RAW 60fps F2.8, 1/2000):


motion blur in Resolve


 
Btw you here you also see a bit the rolling shutter that at 15ms is not fast enough for pans to avoid making the pillars leaning...



This from yesterday 4k 24fps 1/50 F2.8 you cannot really take a picture out. You can always try to add motion blur in post but you cannot remove it. This I filmed with the 180 rule as we did not care about taking photos out.


 

It depends on the scene, sometime it works well and sometime not but you can also get decent result by adding motion blur in post, here two example from this Saturday (8k RAW 60fps F2.8, 1/2000):


motion blur in Resolve


 
Btw you here you also see a bit the rolling shutter that at 15ms is not fast enough for pans to avoid making the pillars leaning...



This from yesterday 4k 24fps 1/50 F2.8 you cannot really take a picture out. You can always try to add motion blur in post but you cannot remove it. This I filmed with the 180 rule as we did not care about taking photos out.


 

I film professional wrestling using two (now three) S5 bodies. The AF is more than adequate. The biggest obstacle to getting good stills from the footage isn't the AF but the shutter speed. I film using a 180 degree shutter angle, but I'm sure I could get good results by adjusting it if I didn't care about the impact it'd have on the footage. 
When there isn't a ton of movement I'll take a still to use for social media, but the motion blur during heavy action just isn't flattering. Here are some ones I've taken for social media/YouTube thumbnails. These are downloaded from Facebook since I'm on my phone but it gives you a general idea. I can post higher resolution versions tomorrow if anyone wants them. 
 

I like FF look shallow dof so personally I would take R8 instead of an R7 also R8 4k 60 is supersampled definitely better quality…. a few here seems to prefer the R7.
I’m not a Sony shooter but they have really good camera too with great AF, so does Nikon (in case of Nikon for the moment only the expensive ones have good video for sports). 
Ideally you want a 4k or up, 60 fps not pixel binned with really good video AF
But the first question should be: do you own already any lenses?

Exactly the opposite you want for sport.... shallow DoF is key as most of the background is quite distracting.... you would probably not see any pro sport shooter with m4/3...

A couple of examples from today, 8k RAW 60fps 300 2.8 1/2000, imagine these at 150 5.6 they would not pop..... 







At the end if you want large DoF and portable why not use a phone? But if you want photo and video that pop a R8 or similar + EF adapte + used EF 70-200 2.8

Btw the new helmet AF of the new R5c firmware is really good, not perfect but really good.

 

Exactly the opposite you want for sport.... shallow DoF is key as most of the background is quite distracting.... you would probably not see any pro sport shooter with m4/3...

A couple of examples from today, 8k RAW 60fps 300 2.8 1/2000, imagine these at 150 5.6 they would not pop..... 







At the end if you want large DoF and portable why not use a phone? But if you want photo and video that pop a R8 or similar + EF adapte + used EF 70-200 2.8

Btw the new helmet AF of the new R5c firmware is really good, not perfect but really good.

 

For track and field, if you shoot laterally by either tracking eg. gimbal moving in parallel or from a fix point by panning the sense of speed will be very different depending of frame rate and shutter speed.

24fps 1/50 will look like they go much quicker than 60fps 1/120 or look even slower at 60fps 1/500. Even when taking photo only panning laterally  you would always want to have some slow shutter speed so 60fps 1/120 will yield good pictures.

Now if they run towards you and your camera is not really moving eg. tripod or handheld, it will not matter that much if is 24fps 1/50 or 60fps 1/500 in term of sense of speed. But for photo grabbing 1/250 or above would be required. 

So instead of sticking with the 180 rule I change the shutter speed based on the position and movements and again if the prio is photo or video or both.

Some examples of my video grabs:

Slow shutter 180 rule









The below one works as the camera is moving (tracking bike) at the same speed as the athlete, if the camera would be fixed it would be impossible to get a picture out

 
 
High shutter speed 1/500 and above











For me 4k would be too low as I crop quite a bit and also take vertical photos out of horizontal video. If you would do it a lot to take pictures out a 6k or above would be better in my opinion. 

Exactly the opposite you want for sport.... shallow DoF is key as most of the background is quite distracting.... you would probably not see any pro sport shooter with m4/3...

A couple of examples from today, 8k RAW 60fps 300 2.8 1/2000, imagine these at 150 5.6 they would not pop..... 







At the end if you want large DoF and portable why not use a phone? But if you want photo and video that pop a R8 or similar + EF adapte + used EF 70-200 2.8

Btw the new helmet AF of the new R5c firmware is really good, not perfect but really good.

 

For track and field, if you shoot laterally by either tracking eg. gimbal moving in parallel or from a fix point by panning the sense of speed will be very different depending of frame rate and shutter speed.

24fps 1/50 will look like they go much quicker than 60fps 1/120 or look even slower at 60fps 1/500. Even when taking photo only panning laterally  you would always want to have some slow shutter speed so 60fps 1/120 will yield good pictures.

Now if they run towards you and your camera is not really moving eg. tripod or handheld, it will not matter that much if is 24fps 1/50 or 60fps 1/500 in term of sense of speed. But for photo grabbing 1/250 or above would be required. 

So instead of sticking with the 180 rule I change the shutter speed based on the position and movements and again if the prio is photo or video or both.

Some examples of my video grabs:

Slow shutter 180 rule









The below one works as the camera is moving (tracking bike) at the same speed as the athlete, if the camera would be fixed it would be impossible to get a picture out

 
 
High shutter speed 1/500 and above











For me 4k would be too low as I crop quite a bit and also take vertical photos out of horizontal video. If you would do it a lot to take pictures out a 6k or above would be better in my opinion. 

For track and field, if you shoot laterally by either tracking eg. gimbal moving in parallel or from a fix point by panning the sense of speed will be very different depending of frame rate and shutter speed.

24fps 1/50 will look like they go much quicker than 60fps 1/120 or look even slower at 60fps 1/500. Even when taking photo only panning laterally  you would always want to have some slow shutter speed so 60fps 1/120 will yield good pictures.

Now if they run towards you and your camera is not really moving eg. tripod or handheld, it will not matter that much if is 24fps 1/50 or 60fps 1/500 in term of sense of speed. But for photo grabbing 1/250 or above would be required. 

So instead of sticking with the 180 rule I change the shutter speed based on the position and movements and again if the prio is photo or video or both.

Some examples of my video grabs:

Slow shutter 180 rule









The below one works as the camera is moving (tracking bike) at the same speed as the athlete, if the camera would be fixed it would be impossible to get a picture out

 
 
High shutter speed 1/500 and above











For me 4k would be too low as I crop quite a bit and also take vertical photos out of horizontal video. If you would do it a lot to take pictures out a 6k or above would be better in my opinion. 

The above I posted especially as is a 4k one, so a R8 at 4k 60fps + a used ef 70-200 2.8 you would get a close enough photo out of the video as mine.
Unfortunately sports = large lenses… 

Mostly R5 and R5c. 

This one is from 2 days ago: R5c 4k 120fps 1/2000 F2.8 and the AF can keep up. AF tracking is quite good in video even for sport, challenging is the initial acquisition but for track and field it should not be a big issue

For track and field, if you shoot laterally by either tracking eg. gimbal moving in parallel or from a fix point by panning the sense of speed will be very different depending of frame rate and shutter speed.

24fps 1/50 will look like they go much quicker than 60fps 1/120 or look even slower at 60fps 1/500. Even when taking photo only panning laterally  you would always want to have some slow shutter speed so 60fps 1/120 will yield good pictures.

Now if they run towards you and your camera is not really moving eg. tripod or handheld, it will not matter that much if is 24fps 1/50 or 60fps 1/500 in term of sense of speed. But for photo grabbing 1/250 or above would be required. 

So instead of sticking with the 180 rule I change the shutter speed based on the position and movements and again if the prio is photo or video or both.

Some examples of my video grabs:

Slow shutter 180 rule









The below one works as the camera is moving (tracking bike) at the same speed as the athlete, if the camera would be fixed it would be impossible to get a picture out

 
 
High shutter speed 1/500 and above











For me 4k would be too low as I crop quite a bit and also take vertical photos out of horizontal video. If you would do it a lot to take pictures out a 6k or above would be better in my opinion. 

For track and field, if you shoot laterally by either tracking eg. gimbal moving in parallel or from a fix point by panning the sense of speed will be very different depending of frame rate and shutter speed.

24fps 1/50 will look like they go much quicker than 60fps 1/120 or look even slower at 60fps 1/500. Even when taking photo only panning laterally  you would always want to have some slow shutter speed so 60fps 1/120 will yield good pictures.

Now if they run towards you and your camera is not really moving eg. tripod or handheld, it will not matter that much if is 24fps 1/50 or 60fps 1/500 in term of sense of speed. But for photo grabbing 1/250 or above would be required. 

So instead of sticking with the 180 rule I change the shutter speed based on the position and movements and again if the prio is photo or video or both.

Some examples of my video grabs:

Slow shutter 180 rule









The below one works as the camera is moving (tracking bike) at the same speed as the athlete, if the camera would be fixed it would be impossible to get a picture out

 
 
High shutter speed 1/500 and above











For me 4k would be too low as I crop quite a bit and also take vertical photos out of horizontal video. If you would do it a lot to take pictures out a 6k or above would be better in my opinion. 

For track and field, if you shoot laterally by either tracking eg. gimbal moving in parallel or from a fix point by panning the sense of speed will be very different depending of frame rate and shutter speed.

24fps 1/50 will look like they go much quicker than 60fps 1/120 or look even slower at 60fps 1/500. Even when taking photo only panning laterally  you would always want to have some slow shutter speed so 60fps 1/120 will yield good pictures.

Now if they run towards you and your camera is not really moving eg. tripod or handheld, it will not matter that much if is 24fps 1/50 or 60fps 1/500 in term of sense of speed. But for photo grabbing 1/250 or above would be required. 

So instead of sticking with the 180 rule I change the shutter speed based on the position and movements and again if the prio is photo or video or both.

Some examples of my video grabs:

Slow shutter 180 rule









The below one works as the camera is moving (tracking bike) at the same speed as the athlete, if the camera would be fixed it would be impossible to get a picture out

 
 
High shutter speed 1/500 and above











For me 4k would be too low as I crop quite a bit and also take vertical photos out of horizontal video. If you would do it a lot to take pictures out a 6k or above would be better in my opinion. 

For track and field, if you shoot laterally by either tracking eg. gimbal moving in parallel or from a fix point by panning the sense of speed will be very different depending of frame rate and shutter speed.

24fps 1/50 will look like they go much quicker than 60fps 1/120 or look even slower at 60fps 1/500. Even when taking photo only panning laterally  you would always want to have some slow shutter speed so 60fps 1/120 will yield good pictures.

Now if they run towards you and your camera is not really moving eg. tripod or handheld, it will not matter that much if is 24fps 1/50 or 60fps 1/500 in term of sense of speed. But for photo grabbing 1/250 or above would be required. 

So instead of sticking with the 180 rule I change the shutter speed based on the position and movements and again if the prio is photo or video or both.

Some examples of my video grabs:

Slow shutter 180 rule









The below one works as the camera is moving (tracking bike) at the same speed as the athlete, if the camera would be fixed it would be impossible to get a picture out

 
 
High shutter speed 1/500 and above











For me 4k would be too low as I crop quite a bit and also take vertical photos out of horizontal video. If you would do it a lot to take pictures out a 6k or above would be better in my opinion. 

I can confirm that with a fully charged single oem LP-E6NH battery I got a little over 80 minutes at 4K 422 10bit 24p XF-AVC (Clog3). Before the update I was getting a little over 60 mins fully charged. 
Also getting double that with the grip.
Words can't express how f*ckin' happy I am right now thanks to this one practical update - and I haven't even started to play around with the other stuff!
 

It would help knowing what type of action/sports you plan to shoot and the type of shoot eg tripod, gimbal, mounted camera, fix camera, etc.
 

It's not so much the frame rate that is the issue, it's the shutter speed. If you don't mind video that has motion that is a little off you can shoot at a higher shutter speed and get better results. But if you're trying to stick to the 180 degree shutter rule for video you're going to get motion blur during action shots. There's not a ton you can do to get around that.