Ricardo Constantino

Hello all, Looking for recommendations on a full frame vintage zoom lens. Between 24/28 and 50/70mm since I mostly use a 35mm and a 50mm when the distortion is a little bit much but want to have the versatility of a wider option for some cases. Aperture of 2.8 or 3.5 and can flare easily! Thank you in advance 🙂

Yeah, I followed the wide hint and guessed it was full frame 😛 love the image quality, so natural and lot's of dynamic range! The thumbnail shot looks gorgeous but I always had a soft spot for Panasonic so I'm biased!

10 bit = S1/S5

I think he's using the Blackmagic Micro and yeah the zoom style is his signature especially for the live show edits. I think it's to accentuate the rhythm of the songs but I love it so I'm kinda guilty on this subject 😅 nice to see another hxc fan!

I just wish they make an E-Mount soon

A7S2 - VSCO Presets, WB adjust and minor desaturation on specific colors. I find the darker tones to be more harder to nail a good skin (the girl has indian tone) but usually get good skintones right away, gonna get A7III I bet it'll be even easier ?

Hello all, I'm editing C200 raw files for the first time and now I'm kinda in a pain in the ass situation. The total size of the files were close to 1TB, so I edited with proxies and then linked the raw files for export, all this was done on a WD Elements 4TB Desktop External Drive. I use a Windows 10 desktop with these specs: Intel Core i7 - 5820k @ 3.3Ghz 16GB of Ram Nvidia GTX 960 The project has some Boris Sapphire Plugins, plus minor Colorgrade, now the problem is that I can't just export anything at all... I was asked for a 4K export but I keep getting errors from Sapphire saying that my GPU couldn't render a certain effect and that it was going to use CPU. On top of that, when exporting my CPU keeps hitting 100% and GPU close to 85% on task manager. I tried to overclock my Nvidia but I'm afraid that it might burn. So the question now is, should I buy a Samsung 1TB SSD T5, migrate the project and export from that, or should I update something on my desktop? I'm hoping the problem is the WD hard drive that isn't capable of processing everything. Thanks in advance.

@kidzrevil how do you do this highlight glow? looks so damn cool

@Dustin just FYI if you go with the Nikon Speedbooster/Lens Turbo/Adapter be aware that you have to manually choose the focal length for IBIS to work since you don't have any electronic communication with the body.

Hey! Try to keyframe the middle point to stay in his middle, sorta like this - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xG1UMObMJK0 Then scale to fill the black corners and I think that's it! Tell me if it works!

I can start with this one All G7 with 12-35mm, handheld and flycam nano dslr. Natural all -5, graded with filmconvert and lumetri.

Hello all, If you had to choose 1 camera to take both photos and videos on music artists reports which one is the best choice atm? I have a G7 and I'm really happy with the quality of the video of course, I have a Voigtlander so low light isn't a problem for me tbh but the pictures are not that great... I can't go more than ISO 800 without getting dark areas super noisy and mushy... I've been considering the Sony A6500 which is APS-C (that I could speedboost with the 16-35mm or not with the 18-35mm) and bump the ISO at least to 1600 or 3200 depending but is the video quality as good as the Panasonic? What others options can you give me? Thanks in advance

Shot with GH5 (for you Vloggers out there)

You can use the dnxhd codecs for windows or lagarith (uncompressed codec)

Thanks a lot I use a Flycam Nano DSLR (which is pretty small, portable and great for the price!). To be honest I have never had any jittering problems and the only time my OIS is off is when I have to use a tripod. What I sometimes notice (only on Steadycam) is like small "robotic" movements sorta like "gymbalish" that I know that's the OIS compensating but it's usually only when I'm sloppy on calibration. On handheld if you use the longest end or the ETC mode you have to have in mind that you sorta using a telephoto lens (handheld) so you might see that the OIS is stronger if you don't have steady hands. EDIT: Yeah if I'm doing interviews I usually go 4K for the post crops so I think you'll be fine!

This is all with Lumix G7 and the 12-35mm. The shots that don't appear to be on steadycam are handheld (all of them) with post zoom ins and outs (plus warp stabilizer) so for me hands down on the O.I.S of this lens which is super great and probably better with Dual-OIS. While you zoom in with the lens there are 3 (or 4) stages throught the zoom that you see a flicker (sorta like going brighter) but only when you zooming slowly. If you plan on doing works where you have to zoom in quite slow you'll definitely see it.

To be honest, I just downloaded it for free (don't want to promote piracy but I'm glad I didn't buy it) in a 2015 link and unless they re-done the LUT, it affects any color that resembles the skintones. Here's an example below. As you can see the highlights are also affected (warm +6 lut) so I still have to key the skintones if I want to change the highlights. This is 8 bit footage from G7 for anyone asking.

Thanks Mattias! Yeah I thought so because I see that every other problem was already addressed and resolved. Might take the bullet for a mkiii then, already start to selling at 1500€ here (Portugal)

@kaylee Ahah yeah being a killer stills camera is also one of the reasons why I might want to return to Canon! @Justin BacleThanks for the reply man :D 1. Yeah that could be one reason but it's something I can easily live without ahah 2. Isn't it 100% reliable right now? I really thought it was all fixed (the purple dngs and those minor fails). What's the worse it can happen while shooting?

Please guys, give me at least one good reason not to sell my G7 and buy a 5D Mark III for RAW shooting. I'm going nuts here!

Thanks for the replies and to answer them all; I've got both the lens and the body at the latest firmware (it was my first thought). I've got the lens for about 3 or 4 years, not sure but the worst scenario I've used the lens was at the beach and I carry it all the time in my backpack. To be honest I've only found out a couple months ago how the lens really worked (the focus ring transmitting information to the motor). I've been getting away with ETC on the 12mm end while I can't send it to Panasonic but it's a pain.

Good afternoon, I have a Lumix 12-35mm that is right now giving me a headache and now I understand why I hate electronic lenses. When trying to auto-focus on other distances different from 12mm it's starts searching for focus and then stops completely all blurred out and it looks like the motor stops working because I keep pressing the shutter and it only lightens the screen (as it does to search for a focus point) but that's it. No focus changes at all. So I pretty much have a 12-35mm that's only good at 12mm because it's the only distance I can focus. Any of you had this problem with this or another lens that had to be repaired? Thanks in advance.

I would take the discount just because he clearly tried to see if he could make those scratches unseen. But I wouldn't return it, you made it look worse from the reading until I saw the picture

Being non-american I really loved this piece. I think works like this one are what made me study video production. The message is clearly there no way you can deny that. Great piece and zero hate speech.