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Phil A

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Everything posted by Phil A

  1. I think only the A7r II, the S variants have no phase detect pixels and will naturally therefore have slower AF function. Phase detect is obviously also a big asset when doing continous autofocus during video recording as traditional contrast detect relies on overshooting the target and then go back to determine perfect focus. I think for stills their cameras are quite good because they have competitive specs, good EVF (mainly the X-T1) or even unique points like the hybrid OVF+EVF. They're clearly the mirrorless system with the most attractive lens lineup, having started with prime lenses instead of ridiculous f/3.5-5.6 consumer zooms. Now that they have 16mm, 23mm, 35mm and 56mm at f/1.4 or faster plus a bunch of slower primes, ultra wideangle, zooms (even f/2.8) and even soon super-telefoto I think they have covered bases that other systems only dream of. A big no no is the X-Trans sensor which is so complex in debayering which is easily seen in how much discussion there is regarding which RAW converter can actually make grass, etc. look good. I'm quite sure that is also the reason their video function image quality is so damn awful, there probably is just not enough performance in the camera to do all the sensor read out, debayering, noise reduction, etc. without worst case line skipping. At the same time I don't believe there really is a practically usable sharpness or ISO sensitivity advantage in regards to other systems based on APS-C sensors.
  2. Don't make him buy Fuji, he'll go bonkers waiting for them to fix the moirè and aliasing in video mode ;-) But I agree, seems Samsung might be the wrong choice. But then who makes interesting AF lenses for any mirrorless system? The Zeiss Touit for Fuji X were just stuff Fuji already made but with a higher price. For Sony E mount it also seems to be more or less only manual glass besides the f/2.8 APS-C primes that Sigma did a whole while ago. Samsung's curse is basically that there's not Metabones smart adapter (and probably will never be now).
  3. That was discussed just a few weeks ago to some length here in the forum: The outcome: turn all "features" off. Funnily my s/o's sister said she thinks it looks way better with the sharpening, saturation and motion smoothing cranked up. Seems the "film look" will probably die out in a few generations.
  4. I used to originally shoot Canon when I started my photography hobby (500D-> 5D II -> 1Ds III -> 5D III) and if lack of firmware updates was an indication for a company going out of business, Canon would be long ago. There was never any meaningful improvement above bugfixing either. All you can do to know is wait for an official statement.
  5. I tested with the following combos: NX1 -> Generic NX to EOS EF Adapter -> Fotodiox N/G - EOS Adapter -> Sigma 35mm f/1.4 Art in Nikon F mount NX1 -> Generic NX to EOS EF Adapter -> Samyang 85mm f/1.4 in Canon EF mount Both combinations hit infinity where it is marked on the distance scale despite the double adapter gamble, obviously you can focus until "after infinity" as on most modern lenses. I didn't see if shop links are allowed, but to be precise it's these two adapter: EOS EF to Nikon G: http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B008BBIBOM The super short throw of the aperture lever IS annoying after some use, the blue plastic lever fell off so I superglued it on again and you can only take the lens off the adapter after taking the adapter off the camera... but then there is no way at all to control canon lenses' apertures so beggars can't be choosers and the double adapter combo is more flexible/lightweight than buying separate NX -> F and EF adapters. Samsung NX to EOS EF: http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00MKZXQA4
  6. I don't want to sound negative, but what you are looking for will be pretty bad on any camera system, it's only a question of "good enough". These super-zooms are made for convenience, not for absolute image quality. If you shoot for web galleries or comparable use, all of them are sufficient and so will be the samsung 18-200 I would think.
  7. There is no autofocus adapter for Samsung. I guess the 50-150 S would fit the bill for what you need but not exactly cheap.
  8. According to the release notes that is correct so far.
  9. Unfortunately not for Windows users, heartbreaking. Curious what is the reason.
  10. I'll give it some use over the holidays. I'm still at home until tomorrow so I can hopefully compare the lenses, check for infinity focus, etc. I think the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 Art for APS-C sensors is probably a better fit sizewise than the 35mm f/1.4 Art but I have barely heard anything about the optical qualities so far. The Nikon 50 1.8 G was really in proportion, can see why Kidzrevil likes the older Nikkors and FD primes on it.
  11. So I got everything yesterday. I played a bit around with it, got me a no-name NX-EOS adapter and then the Fotodiox EOS-NikonF adapter with the aperture lever. Usability limitation is that you have to take the adapters apart to unlock the lens because the EF-F adapter has the release on the mount side instead of side, advantage is that it's lighter and cheaper than having an NX-EOS and NX-F adapter. But nothing moved, really tight fit. I tried the Nikon 50 1.8 G, Sigma 35 Art and Sigma 85 1.4 F mount as well as a Samyang 85 in EF mount. Everything seemed to work just fine besides the aperture lever having a throw of less than 45° on the F adapter and moving a bit hard (might get smoother with use).
  12. Just found out they're incompatible. Now contemplating which of the two to exchange.
  13. Does anyone of you use the NX1 with an external monitor? I tried using it with the SmallHD 501 that I just got and I can't get it to work. I tried auto, 4k, 2160p and 1080p, the result is always a "no signal" message on the monitor and the camera being extremely sluggish until I turn it on and off again. Edit: ok, I just found out they're not compatible. Now THAT is a downer. SmallHD says they work on it for firmware update but can't say if it will actually happen. That just makes me consider giving the NX1 back to the store. I think I'll probably get more value out of the SmallHD in the long run than the camera.
  14. The one I have has nothing, it doesn't even say which direction to close/open which is why I will first study it a moment before risking to get it stuck on a lens. I will use it together with an EF to NX adapter which hopefully will arrive tomorrow, will probably have some more practical feedback later this week. I think the Fotodiox Vizelex ND Throttle adapter looks great on paper. It connects Nikon F to Sony E Mount / Samsung NX / Micro4/3 and includes aperture lever and variable ND but the price in Europe is 50% higher than in the US so I'm not sure I'll get one.
  15. F mount is the Nikon mount, the G type means that it has no aperture ring compared to the older lenses that had one and were manual focus. So yes, you will need an adapter with integrated aperture lever. I received the Fotodiox Nikon F to Canon EF adapter yesterday, it's the one with the blue lever. While I can't judge the general quality of the adapter yet, I can say that the throw of the lever is really really short, less than 90° and has no markings regarding stops or anything like that. It will do though probably.
  16. We wanted to go Friday... then Sunday... now next week. It turned out my girlfriend hasn't seen episodes V and VI so I make her watch those before but she keeps falling asleep when watching movies on the sofa and we have to postpone cinema more and more. Managed V on the third try, will watch VI some time this week and then the new one hopefully on the weekend. I've luckily managed to avoid all spoilers so far. Just came to my mind: We watched Episode V streamed via Amazon Instant Video and the amount of banding that was in that compressed codec was incredible. It's kinda like when you put in a lot of love into editing a video and then upload to Facebook or Instagram.
  17. I can't really imagine because the limitation to 30min is actually due to import tax laws in the European Union (photography camera vs. video camera taxes).
  18. In Switzerland I checked the big online dealers and body-only price is between 629 and 1399 Chf depending on the vendor, from some it already disappeared completely. I think it's more of a dealer specific dumping of stock than a regular price cut. Actually it's easier to get an NX500 than the NX1 it seems. The 16-50 S lens is still 1000 Chf with no discounts. But we already had offers for the kit for 2000 Chf over a few weeks in summer which is like 1850 € so prices in Switzerland for the Samsung stuff were really attractive. I'll probably buy lenses used over internet forums as I used to do in the past. Seen the 16-50 S go for below 700 € and the small 16-50 PZ for 100 €, these prices will probably rather drop even more in the new year. Could imagine getting the 16-50 S and perhaps the 16 or 20mm pancake.
  19. Wow, the price for the NX1 just dropped again in Switzerland at my favorite vendor. Body only is 629 CHF (which is like 630 $) while it's still double the price in Germany. I'm really considering to go buy one even if the system might be soon announced dead, that price is so ridiculous. I'd probably adapt my Nikon glass and be happy. Edit: Took me 44min of consideration and convincing the gf that there is massive reasons why I totally have to buy it. Now the 5 to 7 day wait for delivery starts... Monday I'll get my SmallHD 501 to play... looks like this year Christmas will be busy.
  20. I've shot the Mamiya 80mm f/1.9 on a Mamiya M645 1000s which I had scanned at around 20 Megapixel, shot on Kodak Portra 400 and Ilford XP2 Super. While I think the look is lovely I think the common 80 2.8 is optically better wide open, but then you would expect that. As a sidenote I think focussing f/1.9 in the waist level finder and then shooting handheld with the mirror slap of the gods isn't for the faint of heart. I'd think using the MF lenses would be more about rendering than clinical perfection regarding sharpness, etc. If it's for filming, 4k is such a low resolution that I think all of them would be more than enough and give nice results.
  21. I don't wan to hijack the topic, but regarding the exposure I've read that both the NX1 and GH4 are best used up to ISO800 and only up to 1600 if necessary. But if you have to ETTR the GH4 while you underexpose the NX1, wouldn't that in fact give the NX1 the low light advantage? If you have the same lens parameters regarding f-stop and shutter speed, ETTR-ing one by 1 stop while underexposing the other by 1 stop would give you 2 stops lower ISO on the NX1. Am I doing the math wrong in my head? The screengrabs of Ricardo are mindblowing. Beautiful stylistic grade.
  22. I think a factor is that it's easier to make a good 80mm f/2.8 for a 645er format than a 50mm f/2 for 35mm than a 25mm f/1 for MicroFourThird. So chances are that the corners are sharper, there's less chromatic aberrations, etc. While you will be able to match DoF, FoV, etc. you will still get a different image in the end and 99.5% of people see no difference. I've shot with the Canon 85mm f/1.2L on 35mm and was blown away by it but mostly everyone I know couldn't see any difference to a Sigma 85 1.4 or Canon 85 1.8. So far I've shot m43, APS-C, digital & analog 35mm and analog 645. I think the specific look has more to do with the lens than with the camera system. Obviously MediumFormat offers also leaf shutter lenses which can be a huge benefit against focal plane shutters when shooting with strobes as you can synch flash at any shutter speed, on the other hand focal plane shutters on modern cameras have far quicker speeds available. Horses for courses. Personally I think I couldn't tell in a blind test.
  23. I think this is a bit an issue of opinions as to what is scientifically correct and what is "practically accepted reality". Focal lenght is fixed, it doesn't change depending on the camera. So 28mm is 28mm no matter if 35mm, APS-C or M43 sensor, but the crop of the image circle that is used obviously changes, so you will change the distance to compensate for this. Theory goes on and on but.... The practical answer you want: 28mm on M43 has the field of view like a 56mm on 35mm/FF. So the Speedbooster uses whatever modification, in your case 0.72, which will give you what a 41mm lens would frame on a FF sensor. 28mm x 2 x 0.72 = 40.32mm EDIT: yeah, what dhessel said
  24. Correct. When I watched a movie (Netflix) the first time at the gf's place, I was really irritated by the TV settings. It was a 50" Samsung LCD with every "image enhancing feature" turned on, so it was oversharpened, oversaturated and calculated a load of in-between images to create a smoother image - or exactly the effect you described above. The weird part was, she didn't even notice it until I pointed out how much different it looks on my plasma TV with everything turned off and more conservative image settings. It's kinda interesting how we obsess about image quality and motion cadence, yadda yadda, when most consumers can't even see a difference.
  25. Phil A

    Raven Footage

    Well the I/O basic package is €10000. Then you have to add 4 x €1350 (which is think is ridiculous) for the 240 GB Red MiniMags in addition to the 120GB included in the package. The EVF on top is another €2055 - 4260 depending which one you take. Shoulder pad on top we can probably say you look at nearly double the cost for an identical package.
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