caseywilsondp

LONG POST WARNING!
Ok team, here are the files. I'm really hoping some people with more skill and knowledge can chime in. If something else needs to be tested, let me know soon and I can do it sometime tomorrow.
i've attached uncompressed 32bit tiffs of each setting... so they should be just fine for any test-grading. ill supply a link with the 10gb dnxhr 10bit file that includes all the clips, as soon as i can find a place to host it. 
here are the camera settings that didn't change:
iso: 160
shutter 1/50
aperture was set at a T2 on a 20mm Sony CineAlta prime
everything was shot through a 1/4 hollywood blackmagic filter. in my earlier test i tried both with and without, and it doesn't seem affect anything thats really relevant to these tests enough to make a difference. i personally like this filter in front of this ultra sharp sensor, so thats why i left it on.
first impressions, right now looking at the images, its like anything 'flatter' than 'normal gamma' starts to break apart just a little bit. i'm feeling like the different gamma modes (as have been stated before) really aren't doing anything different in processing other than adjusting some saturation and contrast.
16-235 settings seem to keep black details better than 0-255 everything being equal.
previews:


Tiffs:
 NX1_3_Tiff.zip

finally admitting to myself that GammaDR, Sat-4,Contrast-10,MBL+10,16-235 is just too flat for 95% of stuff that's shot with this camera (with just so much banding)... 
So...just shot the same scene with a bunch of different settings including various gammas, contrast/saturation/mbl amounts, and changed up between 16-235 and 0-255. Shot proress hq to the shogun for all of it. I was planning on uploading still tiffs which should contain all the editable info needed, but would anyone prefer to have the whole prores file to mess with? post coming shortly. It's not every conceivable setting, but it should give us generally a good idea of where to go from here, especially with the luminence discussion.
I maybe could have shot some internal stuff, but honestly I think h265 is actually a pretty good codec (for 8 bit stuff) and i dont think outputting over hdmi is going to give a significant amount of help even with 422... at least on this camera (i found it quite helpful shooting externally on the a7s though).
should show off highlights, a little bit of shadow (back chair with figures on it) and banding on the back wall.

finally admitting to myself that GammaDR, Sat-4,Contrast-10,MBL+10,16-235 is just too flat for 95% of stuff that's shot with this camera (with just so much banding)... 
So...just shot the same scene with a bunch of different settings including various gammas, contrast/saturation/mbl amounts, and changed up between 16-235 and 0-255. Shot proress hq to the shogun for all of it. I was planning on uploading still tiffs which should contain all the editable info needed, but would anyone prefer to have the whole prores file to mess with? post coming shortly. It's not every conceivable setting, but it should give us generally a good idea of where to go from here, especially with the luminence discussion.
I maybe could have shot some internal stuff, but honestly I think h265 is actually a pretty good codec (for 8 bit stuff) and i dont think outputting over hdmi is going to give a significant amount of help even with 422... at least on this camera (i found it quite helpful shooting externally on the a7s though).
should show off highlights, a little bit of shadow (back chair with figures on it) and banding on the back wall.

I just tested and 16-235 appears to have more banding than the full range. 
I've read some people say it captures the same amount of shades than the full range and is just a read information for premiere or your editing software but it appears it is not accurate or there is some other issue.
Anyways don't see the point of using 16-235 in first place? Nothing wrong with the full range to begin with.
save file and open in Photoshop, some color shift with internet browsers.

Ok here are some grabs from the scene. In some cases the banding I would honestly say is "acceptable" though not ideal.. and maybe thats just me being a little generous.
The grade contains about 60% of neat video denoising, which is more aggressive than what I really ever use. I was hoping it would help mitigate some of the banding problems.. and it does to some limited extent.
Jpegs:

Tiffs for better viewing:
 NX1_Color_Test_Close.tif
 NX1_Color_Test_Close_Graded.tif
 NX1_Color_Test_SideL.tif
 NX1_Color_Test_SideL_Graded.tif
 NX1_Color_Test_Wide.tif
 NX1_Color_Test_Wide_Graded.tif
Camera settings as follows:
Gamma DR, Contrast -10, Sharpness -10, Saturation -4, MBL +10, range is 16-235
Shogun set to capture in ProRes HQ
Now I'm definitely a noob to this camera (thus the testing) so I must ask, is there some other setting somewhere that I need to make sure is adjusted properly? Like a picture profile or something? HDMI is set to 3840x2160 (24) clean out.
Tomorrow I'm going to try the test again. I'll shoot/edit quickly to test different settings. What values of above should I change? I am planning on dropping contrast to 0 (I actually did drop it to -5 to test one shot, and the banding was still prevalent) and adjust MBL closer to 0, which seems a shame because in my earlier tests (as posted in this thread) I was able to get a TON of usable detail out of the shadows... but the banding just might not be worth it.
Also maybe you can edit the tiffs to have less banding, if so, how?
Please share your thoughts.

Ok here are some grabs from the scene. In some cases the banding I would honestly say is "acceptable" though not ideal.. and maybe thats just me being a little generous.
The grade contains about 60% of neat video denoising, which is more aggressive than what I really ever use. I was hoping it would help mitigate some of the banding problems.. and it does to some limited extent.
Jpegs:

Tiffs for better viewing:
 NX1_Color_Test_Close.tif
 NX1_Color_Test_Close_Graded.tif
 NX1_Color_Test_SideL.tif
 NX1_Color_Test_SideL_Graded.tif
 NX1_Color_Test_Wide.tif
 NX1_Color_Test_Wide_Graded.tif
Camera settings as follows:
Gamma DR, Contrast -10, Sharpness -10, Saturation -4, MBL +10, range is 16-235
Shogun set to capture in ProRes HQ
Now I'm definitely a noob to this camera (thus the testing) so I must ask, is there some other setting somewhere that I need to make sure is adjusted properly? Like a picture profile or something? HDMI is set to 3840x2160 (24) clean out.
Tomorrow I'm going to try the test again. I'll shoot/edit quickly to test different settings. What values of above should I change? I am planning on dropping contrast to 0 (I actually did drop it to -5 to test one shot, and the banding was still prevalent) and adjust MBL closer to 0, which seems a shame because in my earlier tests (as posted in this thread) I was able to get a TON of usable detail out of the shadows... but the banding just might not be worth it.
Also maybe you can edit the tiffs to have less banding, if so, how?
Please share your thoughts.

Ok here are some grabs from the scene. In some cases the banding I would honestly say is "acceptable" though not ideal.. and maybe thats just me being a little generous.
The grade contains about 60% of neat video denoising, which is more aggressive than what I really ever use. I was hoping it would help mitigate some of the banding problems.. and it does to some limited extent.
Jpegs:

Tiffs for better viewing:
 NX1_Color_Test_Close.tif
 NX1_Color_Test_Close_Graded.tif
 NX1_Color_Test_SideL.tif
 NX1_Color_Test_SideL_Graded.tif
 NX1_Color_Test_Wide.tif
 NX1_Color_Test_Wide_Graded.tif
Camera settings as follows:
Gamma DR, Contrast -10, Sharpness -10, Saturation -4, MBL +10, range is 16-235
Shogun set to capture in ProRes HQ
Now I'm definitely a noob to this camera (thus the testing) so I must ask, is there some other setting somewhere that I need to make sure is adjusted properly? Like a picture profile or something? HDMI is set to 3840x2160 (24) clean out.
Tomorrow I'm going to try the test again. I'll shoot/edit quickly to test different settings. What values of above should I change? I am planning on dropping contrast to 0 (I actually did drop it to -5 to test one shot, and the banding was still prevalent) and adjust MBL closer to 0, which seems a shame because in my earlier tests (as posted in this thread) I was able to get a TON of usable detail out of the shadows... but the banding just might not be worth it.
Also maybe you can edit the tiffs to have less banding, if so, how?
Please share your thoughts.

Yeah it seems that there is a balancing act to be made between Contrast/Black Level/Saturation. Push certain combo's to far and the color info starts falling apart.
 

just got my shogun back from repair yesterday, I'll try and do some tests soon. In setting it up I can tell you that some camera features are not available while the shogun is plugged in, like white balance. But ISO and shutter speed are available, and I assume aperture control as well, but I'm using pl lenses right now so that's not an option anyways.

not just the nx1 sensor obviously  used the 28-70 2.8 on my a7s and it was beautiful.
anyways this thread has been enlightening. i'm in the process of finding where i like the settings and recently did a test with 2 very contrasty scenes (interior and exterior) and I'm blown away with the shadow detail that this camera retains... it keeps it much cleaner than on the a7s (which is why we'd always ettr).
don't judge me too much! these were scenes designed to push the video capabilities in post, and see what kind of image I could recover, not necessarily to be beautiful.
here are a few screen grabs:




 
settings are as follow:
gamma dr. sharpness -10, contrast -10, sat -4, black level +10
internally, this might be a bit aggressive. there is some banding on the walls of the interior shots (which were heavily underexposed btw), but i'll test it again with the shogun on saturday and see if the extra 422 helps with that.
the lenses were second gen sony cinealtas... and are almost too sharp with how much this camera sharpens. i should add to try and mitigate some of that i shot through 1/4 HWBMF
 

On the topic of Canon color… This is beautiful. Shot with the 5D3. Also professionally graded, I believe NR was applied. The canon greens are so nice, the skin tones in a practically lit interview looks so nice as well. A sony FS7 etc would take forever to get close to this.
Going out and shooting test footage, the c100mkii probably won't wow you, but when you're paid to shoot all day and get coverage, the camera is just amazing to work with. 
Those two pieces linked above look amazing. The highlight handling on the canon is so great.
 
 

Agreed with Jimbo and Casey. Just get maybe a 17-55 for Canon to use with AF when necessary. The other times Nikon will work great on the C100. I still use my Nikon primes when I'm on a tripod or have a chance to pull focus.

Hi Lintelfilm,
Ah choices, choices!
I'm in a similar position to you. I use GH4s for my business with a mixture of native and Nikon lenses. I love the cameras but after 4 years of DSLRs I desire a camera built for video from the ground up. My main gripe with the GH4 is I get nervous if I have to go above ISO 1600, I know that I am then degrading my image beyond what I want for my brand. Fast lenses only get you so far.
Differently to you I film mostly events (80% weddings) so between these cameras it would be a no brainer for me to go for the C100 Mark 2. It's the complete package and I can just tell the ergonomics and workflow would save me time, and as we know time is money. However, I think it would be ideal for your work too, and the image is cinematic enough if you have a narrative up your sleeve. Looks like there has already been a price drop in the US for the Mark 2 and I'm excited to see if it drops any further after NAB and that extends to the UK. That's when I'll make my decision. My only concern is this would be a 3-4 year investment for me and 4K is coming whether we like it or not. I wouldn't want to miss a single job because I didn't have 4K, especially as I start taking on more commercial work.
Completely agree with Casey regarding lenses, definitely don't ditch your Nikons (they're beautiful for all the reasons he mentioned and can be adapted to almost anything), just start with a single workhorse lens for your new camera and take it from there.
Would love to know what you decide and why!

This is interesting to see, Amazon has raised the prices considerably since the holidays. I bought nx1/16-50S for $1950 from Amazon in mid December, and now the same package is $2800.

my only advice: don't overhaul your lens kit if you don't have to. I'm not sure what nikon lenses you have, but in my experience they are beautiful, and imperfect in a way that can add an organic feel to an otherwise sterile digital image. just get an ef adapter! (of course that won't help you with image stabilizing...)

This is interesting to see, Amazon has raised the prices considerably since the holidays. I bought nx1/16-50S for $1950 from Amazon in mid December, and now the same package is $2800.

not just the nx1 sensor obviously  used the 28-70 2.8 on my a7s and it was beautiful.
anyways this thread has been enlightening. i'm in the process of finding where i like the settings and recently did a test with 2 very contrasty scenes (interior and exterior) and I'm blown away with the shadow detail that this camera retains... it keeps it much cleaner than on the a7s (which is why we'd always ettr).
don't judge me too much! these were scenes designed to push the video capabilities in post, and see what kind of image I could recover, not necessarily to be beautiful.
here are a few screen grabs:




 
settings are as follow:
gamma dr. sharpness -10, contrast -10, sat -4, black level +10
internally, this might be a bit aggressive. there is some banding on the walls of the interior shots (which were heavily underexposed btw), but i'll test it again with the shogun on saturday and see if the extra 422 helps with that.
the lenses were second gen sony cinealtas... and are almost too sharp with how much this camera sharpens. i should add to try and mitigate some of that i shot through 1/4 HWBMF
 

Did an interview today, basic settings most people discuss here. Nikkor 28-70 2.8 at 70-ish/2.8 (room was too tight for my fave people lens, the 85 1.8 - or to get much separation from the BG). Haven't started an edit yet, but amped the DR flatness back up in Photoshop here. Very nice camera to use for these sorts of gigs, and though i recorded audio with an external, the line-out fed into the Samsung sounds fine, so no synching needed. I do think an attenuating cable will be in my bag next, the Samsung's pre's are pretty hot.
I really like Nikkors and such on this sensor - from wide open to F4/5.6 or so, they really sand off the hard edges nicely. Waiting for my FL adapter - I have some 1960's Canon glass to test… I may get a full set together if I like 'em. 
I do miss that Nikon sensor sort of "coolness" to the shadows… may play with that in post. Really had a lovely 3D-ish look sometimes.

not just the nx1 sensor obviously  used the 28-70 2.8 on my a7s and it was beautiful.
anyways this thread has been enlightening. i'm in the process of finding where i like the settings and recently did a test with 2 very contrasty scenes (interior and exterior) and I'm blown away with the shadow detail that this camera retains... it keeps it much cleaner than on the a7s (which is why we'd always ettr).
don't judge me too much! these were scenes designed to push the video capabilities in post, and see what kind of image I could recover, not necessarily to be beautiful.
here are a few screen grabs:




 
settings are as follow:
gamma dr. sharpness -10, contrast -10, sat -4, black level +10
internally, this might be a bit aggressive. there is some banding on the walls of the interior shots (which were heavily underexposed btw), but i'll test it again with the shogun on saturday and see if the extra 422 helps with that.
the lenses were second gen sony cinealtas... and are almost too sharp with how much this camera sharpens. i should add to try and mitigate some of that i shot through 1/4 HWBMF
 

​I'm part of the choir, preacher; lost my strong desire for gear ownership years ago.  Couldn't see the point of it at the level I'm at. 
To keep your metaphor going:  I just need to practice my fade away jump shot because too many of my videos have been clanging off the rim lately.  

After now doing about 6 jobs on the Red Epic Dragon and about 28 jobs on the Red One MX the more I see that the Red One MX’s motion cadence in slo motion feels better.  Also the Red One MX has better heat dissipation and multiple hd-sdi out connectors which is very useful.  Also line and mic in options via xlr.  Also the colorspace of Red MX doesn’t seem too much different than Red Dragon - definitely not enough to justify the $30,000 price difference.  
I feel that the Red Dragon definitely has nicer highlight roll off - that is for sure - and less boot up times and higher frame rates and the ability to shoot full frame - but is it enough to justify the $30000 price difference?  That's a lot of money that could go towards lighting, lenses, etc.
To me, not really as an owner.  To rent, sure - why not get a camera that is better and is only $500 a day more to rent.  And further proof that owning a new camera is not smart.  Just buy an older camera, figure out it’s quirks and flaws and strengths and go from there.  Learn how to light, compose, and grade better.  No matter how good your shoes are, you still will only get better at basketball if you practice.  Same with cinematography.  

I thought this might be in reference to your dvxuser fullframe thread

Easy....70mm

doing some camera tests for an upcoming feature and thought i'd share the results (after some not as ideal results from my first shoot)
full write up here if you're interested (with before/afters), but the main points:
12800 iso
exposed skin around %60 ire on fill side
used alisters one stop over film lut
denoised %30 in neat video (may eventually remove denoising as the grain isn't that unappealing)
shot with nikon zooms. 
some snippets from the dailies in 4k:
 
 
 

doing some camera tests for an upcoming feature and thought i'd share the results (after some not as ideal results from my first shoot)
full write up here if you're interested (with before/afters), but the main points:
12800 iso
exposed skin around %60 ire on fill side
used alisters one stop over film lut
denoised %30 in neat video (may eventually remove denoising as the grain isn't that unappealing)
shot with nikon zooms. 
some snippets from the dailies in 4k: