John Palmer

vintage Vivitar lenses (come in various lens mounts) have some pretty nice looks (its hit or miss though). I got a Vivitar 28mm f2 in c/y mount for about $30 that is has good contrast, but still pretty low contrast when it comes to modern lenses and surprising sharp wide open. Old russian lenses like the Mir and Helios (lomo may make some Still lenses too) but those are usually the most organic looking in general

a contax/ Yashica Zeiss 28mm f2 could be used to shoot an entire film for sure (any camera) and be awsesome
 

I believe when it comes to colour, S-Log was way better implemented on their Cinealta range than on the Alpha range.  ie. the implementation of S-Log on the f3, f35 and f65 was more carefully undergone and delivers more trustworthy results.  I expect @Ed David could shed some insight on the Cinealta range from the era of the F3.
Looking at the F3, I can't see a reason not to go for it at the current price.  as long as you can budget for an aftermarket fz mount adaptor or PL mount glass, as well as rigging and the external recorder for 4;4;4 you'll likely not find a more powerful camera.  I'd take 4;4;4 1080p from the F3 over any 4k dslr.

olympus OM 35-70 f3.6 is supposed to be good. the front element does not rotate either. I haven't gotten around to buying one, so haven't actually tried it though
You can get one is nice condition for less than $100

olympus OM 35-70 f3.6 is supposed to be good. the front element does not rotate either. I haven't gotten around to buying one, so haven't actually tried it though
You can get one is nice condition for less than $100

Your opinions did really affect me and you were right - so I made shots that hold longer .
 
Thank you guys for the feedback!
 
 

Ive had to shoot a lot of things at 1600 and I have the best results if I shoot in 4k and downsize to 1080p. Natural profile, master pedestal: +5, -1 highlight and + 1 shadows, contrast -5, saturation -4, noise reduction -4, sharpness - 5, and use a lens that is f2.8 or less
I personally like the noise from the gh4 and downscaling definitely makes it look a whole lot better. sharpening will make the grain stand out more. In most situations where I know it will be pretty low light I use my c/y zeiss 50mm f1.7, which is sharp enough wide open to help with most extremely dark situations
I also have Neat Video but dont really use it that much unless its a shot that wasat 1600 ISO but is still like 2 stops under exposed. It may be better to just go higher in ISO to expose properly than to under-expose and try to lift in post (in terms of grain)
 

Ive had to shoot a lot of things at 1600 and I have the best results if I shoot in 4k and downsize to 1080p. Natural profile, master pedestal: +5, -1 highlight and + 1 shadows, contrast -5, saturation -4, noise reduction -4, sharpness - 5, and use a lens that is f2.8 or less
I personally like the noise from the gh4 and downscaling definitely makes it look a whole lot better. sharpening will make the grain stand out more. In most situations where I know it will be pretty low light I use my c/y zeiss 50mm f1.7, which is sharp enough wide open to help with most extremely dark situations
I also have Neat Video but dont really use it that much unless its a shot that wasat 1600 ISO but is still like 2 stops under exposed. It may be better to just go higher in ISO to expose properly than to under-expose and try to lift in post (in terms of grain)
 

the ntsc one i guess. 59.94 hz?
Heres some footage I shot right after i updated, ungraded. 4k downscaled to 1920x818. all shot wide open (2.8) except a few that were at 3.5, had a ND 8 on though, with an old FD mount sigma 35-70mm with a dyaliscope junior 16.
 

I use mpeg streamclip. its free and works pretty well. It allows you to choose a custom frame size. There is also another called handbrake

I definitely would not take that lens apart unless you have done it before. Get a lens cloth,fold it and lay it over the rear glass element. Tape it to the body or something so it stays on and you can Drimmel the shit out of those ears. Maybe lay another piece of cloth or something over that for extra protection.
 
 

*(forgot you said it didn't need to be on camera)
http://www.amazon.com/TAKSTAR-SGC-598-Photography-Interview-Microphone/dp/B00E58AA0I/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420751673&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=takstar+shot+gun+mic
$35. its got a +10Db switch
I bought one of these just to check it out and to have better backup sound when recording to separate devices. Ive seen some pretty good comparisons on youtube between this and the Rode Video Mic (not the pro one i think). Its really not too bad, considering the price. Pretty good indoors. I dont really have that great of an ear for picking up small differences in audio equipment though, so I am not the best person to ask.
I think I read some where that this mic is manufactured by the same company that manufactures Rode's stuff too. not sure though

If I work on a set where the camera is on sticks the majority of the time I usually measure the distance with a tape, plus all of the other distance related info. I'd say its a good habit to keep. Depends on the shoot though. Usually one of the AC's  will do that anyway. Sometimes lenses can say your focus point is 7' away when its really 8', especially on older lenses. If you're buying $$$$ vintage cinema lenses I would make sure they are properly calibrated

thanks man! I believe It is 48 fps, might have been 60 but no I didn't slow it down any in post

Here's a music video I shot recently on the gh4. Zero budget but I feel like it turned out pretty well
http://vimeo.com/115369481

Just a short fashion film I shot during a photoshoot the other day. Its pretty much the first real thing I have shot with my anamorphic lens, mainly due to its lack of run and gun ability, but I found with the 35-70 things worked out pretty smoothly. Never had to swap out lenses and it performs very well.
I did not use the new firmware update photo mode.
Mostly 48 & 60 fps
 

 
Let me know what you think?!
(Ive got a 15second version on my page too)

I normally use canon FD glass on my gh4. I find them to be a very good combo with the gh4, I never have trouble with an "overly digital" look to my footage. there is a shop in my town with a ton of old lenses and they let me trade back and forth so I get to try and bunch of random ones out.
I have a bunch of them but one that seems to have the most character to me is a Vivitar 28mm f2.5 FD mount. it has really cool lens flares and is very sharp wide open
Ive also got a Sigma 35-70 f2.8 FD mount that I use with my anamorphic lens that is awesome
I bought a Contax Zeiss 28-70mm f3.5-4.5 the other week from keh.com. I really like it and its pretty damn sharp for a zoom lens. It was only $313 in Excellent condition so it was a hard deal not to pass up.
 
Ive got an RJ FD- m43 speedbooster as well. I have been very happy with it and that blue dot is not really much of an issue.