bunk
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Posts posted by bunk
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To my eyes the gh5 is already "falling apart" ...and only prores was used on the Ursa.
@Aaron thanks for taking the time to do make the test.
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2 hours ago, midloch said:
To me it seems Like 709 better than v-log.
I have always thought that v-log is the best profile but now I am not so convinced unless it needs much better grading.
If you can't get the nuance the V-log profile offers like hihglights, look at here hair and eyes, with the like709 profile, I would go for V-log. Skin tones you can adjust, you can't ad highlights(rolloff).
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I like it too. It doesn't break easily. There is chroma smearing/shift as wel but it doesn't jump in your eye. I like the noise as well.
Here is a grade
The footage is very sensitive to contrast, before you know you're shadows get this burned in look.
- mercer and Kubrickian
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1 hour ago, Emanuel said:
You'll find the same chroma smearing going on with other cameras, take a look on minute 00:46 of that example above. Saturate the colors just a bit and see the ear of the guy. Same effect. So, everything can be controlled either in the camera settings or at post for sure, the more avoidable the possible, I concur though.
Might be an interesting test once you have the original file in your hands and not the compressed version with huge(!) macro blocks on the wall that you can download as "original".
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59 minutes ago, jonpais said:
Anyway, if you'd explain what you're seeing, I'd be very interested in learning more.
Here is what I see, as for some reason you can't see it I blow it up to 200%, so maybe that helps. You might have a differenrt skin color at those spots but not the color panasonic makes of it. I suspect it's caused by chroma smearing, I could be wrong though.
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On 31 March 2017 at 9:57 AM, jonpais said:
This picture you provided shows exactly the problem Inazuma is talking about (chroma smearing). No need to go pixel peeping, viewing it at 100% is enough.
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It's old it weights around 9kg but I don't think you will find a better fluidhead with tripod attached to it for the money.
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4 hours ago, lmackreath said:
In reference to my above Edinburgh video I have put the ungraded vlog edit into dropbox if anyone wants to download and grade for themselves..
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qr5qfagz6tm63t5/edinburgh4kungraded.mov?dl=0
Thanks for sharing. This not OOC footage is it? It looks recompressed, but I could be wrong. Nevertheless nice to grade.
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8 hours ago, Orangenz said:
3200 is clean. Plus this is completely off topic, in the wrong thread, and you didn't point out the snipers or aliens.
How is this not on topic?
The thread tittle is Gh5 -tips -tricks-and-questions.
My questions is about specks -not noise- …grain if you like, that are/is artificial added to the footage as in, it’s a feature not a bug.
Is it possible to have any influence on this new feature? …with NR settings for instance.Your answer: 3200 is clean.
I’s not forbidden to not reply, if you don’t know the answer.
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Specks, I don’t think it’s mentioned yet.
They are all over footage with higher ISO. I would like to know when they popup and why it pops up. To mask noise? To give the footage a more film like appearance? Something else entirely…
The screenshot is taken from footage Gordon Lang shared Vlog 3200iso 25p 10bit. Added some contrast to make it more visible and pointed out a couple of them.
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1 hour ago, aldolega said:
You used viewfinders/loupes on both cameras? Out on a sunny day?
They're burns, from the loupe optics concentrating the sun onto the screen.
Like a kid burning ants with a magnifying glass.
There's a reason all the nicer loupes/viewfinders have caps on them- to keep this from happening.
Oops, I did do some test with a thread loupe. Might explain it never got worse, thanks!
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I haven't been to any botanical garden but I'm pretty sure I got the same issue with my bmpcc lcd. There are two specks.
They are only visible when the camera is powered. I took the camera unprotected in a backpack with me, so I suspect it was caused by something scratching the surface and somehow damaging the innerpart of the screen as nothing is visible on the outside when not powered.
Since then I'm more carefull and I don't even notice them anymore.
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Quote
I suppose on RAW you want a flat valley not peaks to the left or right?
This link might be usefull.
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15 minutes ago, Phil A said:
Maybe one of the slightly bigger and more expensive ball heads that have adjustable friction?
My thought exactly.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1069604-REG/kupo_kg010011_mini_ball_head_with.html
Never used it, but three users gave it 5 stars.
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1 hour ago, Mattias Burling said:Quote
First of all, you didn't even make the test so I could just tell you "No way" right there and then.
Not sure how I fail as it was doen exactly as you descripted, but with three virtual camera's and lenses. You didn't believe the math behind it remember. The test performed proofed the math.
QuoteLook at the test I made yesterday with the two pictures of the same flowers and identical settings apart from the "equivalent" lens.
Convince me that my eyes are wrong and that one of the pictures isn't darker than the other.You mean the test with the lens cap still on. No idea what it was about and don't care to find out. Maybe you can find somebody else to help you out.
QuoteJust sold my A7 five minutes ago so the next video will be after I have bought an A7s.
It might be a while because as some of you may know, I pay very very little for my gear compared to retail and list prices.
Sniffing out a deal sometimes takes a little time and dedicationLooking forward to the results with the A7s.
ps Sorry about the 'extra h' in your name. Noticed it too late and couldn't edit it after that for some reason.
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3 hours ago, tupp said:
In addition, the linked simulation that you mention did not factor-in several important variables (as I have suggested earlier in this thread), thus the simulation is worthless.
You either have a bad memory or you didn't read the thread. The simulation wasn't created for you. Matthias denied what Timotheus wrote...
QuoteOn 29 October 2016 at 1:52 PM, Timotheus said:
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* You didn't respond to what I said, i.e. you can get the same framing, same depth of field, shooting from the same spot...with different sensor-sized camera's. The key is using lenses that compensate for the differences in sensor size.He is talking about the math behind it.
No you cant. Look at the Tony Northup frame I posted. It clearly proves that you can replicate the image from a large sensor in the way YOU earlier suggested.I tell you what. Take the three lenses and sensor sizes you listed in your first post. Take three photos from the same distance of the same subject. A person with a background similar to the example I posted.
I will give you $100 it they turns out exactly the same.
tweak likes thisQuote
No you cant. Look at the Tony Northup frame I posted. It clearly proves that you can replicate the image from a large sensor in the way YOU earlier suggested.I tell you what. Take the three lenses and sensor sizes you listed in your first post. Take three photos from the same distance of the same subject. A person with a background similar to the example I posted.
I will give you $100 it they turns out exactly the same.
tweak likes thisAs you can read Matthias suggest it can't be done the way You Timotheus suggest. In other words the math is being denied.
That's why the simulation was created as it removes the imperfection of the lenses. Meantime the math is no longer the point of discussion, or so it seems.
Film is not reality. Even more so in this day and age, as there are more and more CG generated movies produced. A reality you will have to live with.
@ Matthias, still waiting for the $100,-. btw I settle for a lens.
...and btw I dig this thread and the adapter results.
- Don Kotlos and jcs
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I might want to add that there was something 'fishy' going on. Turned out that the 422 10bit version I downloaded was in reality a 420 8 bit version. Emmanuel Pampuri replaced the file some what later and you can now download the correct version. It holds up way better. The "problem" remains, but doesn't jump in your face anymore.
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57 minutes ago, Ken Ross said:
Nothing misquoted whatsoever. He claimed the Nikon (cheaper camera) had better colors than the Panasonic after the Nikon was 'corrected/graded'. So how is he claiming the exact opposite???
You're right you didn't quote him. You suggest he claims something he does not.
Let me help you.
QuoteNo chance for the Panny to reach the pleasant Nikon colors OOC
This part means: No chance for panny to reach the pleasant Nikon colors Out Of Camera.
Quote(with correction / grading in post, of course).
This part means: unless you apply corrections and grade in post of course.
In other words you can get the pleasing colors with the panny but not without post work.
But I could be wrong of course.
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2 hours ago, Ken Ross said:
Considering that grading skills run from horrible to excellent (just view a bunch of graded videos on line), your comment that a Panny has 'no chance' to reach the 'pleasant' Nikon color rendition after the Nikon is 'corrected/graded', strikes me as a bit silly. Yes, it IS in the eyes of the beholder.
Is reading in the eyes of the beholder? ...as he claims the exact opposite of your bit silly translated quote
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The bad news is Pampuri's 'Constance & the Flowers' was shot a 10 bit ...and it's the worst footage I have seen (YUV chroma smearing wise). The YUV chroma smearing as explained by LPowell applies to 8 bit. So something fishy is going on.
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1 hour ago, Dimitris Stasinos said:
I don't get it... What has white balance to do with macroblocking? All I am seeing in those extreme gradings above is color banding, which is normal after such a push in post. Macroblocking is a compression artifact...
I should have used the term 'YUV chroma smearing' ...it's been a while.
Here are two link where Lpowell explains about it.
No Joke - RAW 4K on the 5D Mark III
In: Cameras
Posted
Thanks, looking forward to it.