tupp

Here you go:

 

Can you send a picture?

There are countless ways to solve this problem.  The cables just need strain relief to the cage and the connectors need to be protected from flexing.
I have done this before on a caged OG BMPCC simply with two, long, stainless steel, 1/4"-20 bolts and cable ties.  nothing would happen if you pulled on the cables.  We were able to keep the camera rigged in a bag with a monitor, external battery and lens attached.
@BTM_Pix has made an excellent suggestion.  I can also envision a solution using the aforementioned 1/4"-20 bolts plus a couple of washers and a small dollup of PC-7 epoxy (or plumbers epoxy -- but you have to work fast!).
 

Alright I need to devise a solution. I’ve got two external recorders for my Z6, an Atomos ninja v and an Atomos ninja star. They work great but I hate having to attach them each time I pull my camera off my bag. I’m also getting a “double” HDMI clamp solution. Basically what is used here, where we have a clamp for the camera’s HDMI port as well as a screw-in female HDMI cable. 
 
My question is how to rig this so that my recorder can stay attached, and this clamp setup can stay attached without bending the HDMI port on my Z6, saying as the camera will be in my bag which can be jostled around at times. I want the dual-clamp setup to remain plugged in, and I want either my ninja v or ninja star to stay mounted and ready to go when my camera is in my bag. So I can pull the camera out and begin shooting right away. Any recommendations?
 

There is nothing off the shelf but what you need to do is fabricate a simple box shroud that protects the ports from being touched in transit.
Something like this very crude representation I've done here.

Obviously you would have holes in it in the required positions to enable the cables to pass and make it sufficiently deep so that the ports are far enough away.
To make it easily removable/re-mountable then take advantage of you having a cage and put magnets around the base of the shroud. These will provide sufficient strength to keep it in place when knocked into but make it easy to remove by hand.
In terms of actually designing it, if you are comfortable with 3D design then you can do it yourself or use Fiverr to find someone who will design it to your spec. As it is a very simple design then it will cost around €10-15 for this service.
In terms of it then being made from the design, there are a ton of 3D print bureaus that will handle that for you and they have a range of different materials from Nylon PA12 plastic (which will be the most appropriate one for this) up to more exotic metal replacement materials.
Price is dependent on the size of the finished design and the 3D print bureau (local in person service will likely be more expensive than an online provider) but I'd guestimate at sub €40 as a one off part.
 
 

Considering the abusive way that he treats his cameras, it's good that he has more than one:
 
"DON'T DO IT!"

It looks good!  Thanks for the test!
I bought the Canon 10mm-18mm EF-S lens on the strength of this video by @ZEEK:
 
 
@ZEEK says that the lens works on full frame down to about 14mm, but he mainly uses it with a speedbooster on the EOSM.

Considering the abusive way that he treats his cameras, it's good that he has more than one:
 
"DON'T DO IT!"

Considering the abusive way that he treats his cameras, it's good that he has more than one:
 
"DON'T DO IT!"

Considering the abusive way that he treats his cameras, it's good that he has more than one:
 
"DON'T DO IT!"

Considering the abusive way that he treats his cameras, it's good that he has more than one:
 
"DON'T DO IT!"

Yes, I had been looking at that first and was about to get one but then I stumbled on a mention of the Tokina and it seemed to me after a bit of research that it holds sharpness a bit better towards the corners and also there is very little vignetting other than the limits of the image circle.

I had that lens and did the hack myself. Yeah 13 to 14mm is about right on FF. Cheap thrills, the adapter is around $32.00 I think.

It looks good!  Thanks for the test!
I bought the Canon 10mm-18mm EF-S lens on the strength of this video by @ZEEK:
 
 
@ZEEK says that the lens works on full frame down to about 14mm, but he mainly uses it with a speedbooster on the EOSM.

I'm a sucker for cheap wide angle and have found a nice contender for APSC and speedboosted M43.
The Tokina 12-24 f4 is a well regarded wide angle lens for APSC Nikon and Canon DSLRs, but you can totally get away with using it on larger formats to a certain extent. It has good build quality, very little vignetting, is fairly sharp out to the edges and has very little distortion in the middle of the range. They go for very little now and I picked up a copy for €150 including postage on eBay.
Here it is on a GH6 with 0.64x Speedbooster wide open at f2.5
12mm (15mm full frame equivalent, 7.5mm M43 equivalent). Vignetting is evident. This is a lens for APSC formats, after all.
 

15mm (19mm FF / 9.5mm M43 equivalent). Vignetting is mostly gone. Could maybe go a little wider stopped down a bit.
 

18mm (23mm FF /11.5mm M43 equivalent). This is the minimum you can use it on full frame, where corners are quite soft at 18mm but speedboosted on M43 the corners look decent. Any distortion levels out around here and is quite good as we zoom in further.

20 (25.5mm FF /13mm M43 equivalent)
 

24 (31mm FF /15mm M43 equivalent). Purple/green fringing is quite bad at 24mm, probably the biggest problem with the lens. It cleared up for me using Digital Film Tools Chromatic Aberration effect.
All in all, I'm quite pleased with it and would definitely recommend it as a cheap wide angle option for Speedboosted M43. On full frame it suffers a lot with corner softness, but is still good for square format photos if Insta is your thing!

OP said that the cameras will be used in a "talk show" setting.
So, they will likely be on sticks and require a lens that can get fairly tight, with smooth zoom-in/zoom-outs.

Great finding. But the "Smooth Skin Effect" is a blur effect only, it was added to GFX cameras a long time ago, it does not affect colour. Default is off and it has to be switched on.

Well, in a much Brechtian more interesting setup approach than the conventional one, you'd be able to fix it pretty well... : D
 

Good point. Thanks!!!

Are there really any FOSS solutions superior to BGM v2?  I know there is RVM but I feel if you can get that clean plate, BGM V2 is better. 

OP said that the cameras will be used in a "talk show" setting.
So, they will likely be on sticks and require a lens that can get fairly tight, with smooth zoom-in/zoom-outs.

hey guys!! please help me so i can recommend camera(s) for my friends new ~low budget youtube show~
its a satire of a typical late night talk show... from carson to the present, very similar sets, right? desk, two chairs/couch, etc. this will be a small set in a living room – not the ed sullivan theatre, just fyi
the director wants to start with two cameras, allowing for the possibility of adding more in the future, but they need to match – meaning: we need two inexpensive identical camera bodies. two of the same camera
the camera needs to:
- have reasonable image quality
- shoot forever without overheating
- have a front facing flippy screen
- be super affordable
- it does NOT need to shoot stills at all, a 'camcorder' is totally a possibility (something in know nothing about)
suggestions??
 
please help!! thank you!! love u guize!!!
 

Makes you want to sell all your stuff and buy a camcorder. Hmm. 😬

second hand sony pmw 150s, panasonic AG-AC160s, or panasonic aj-hpx255s if the p2 cards are included?
new panasonic HC-X1s or sony PXW-Z150s?

Does it beat the handy Osmo Pocket series?
Camcorder, right? So, forget that cinematic mantra then:
Humm... ; )
But if you're not convinced how useful these tools can work out, take a look here and there.