QuickHitRecord

http://vimeo.com/70264199
 
I had all but given up on ever finding the perfect 8mm anamorphic lens, but I recently got my hands on what I think is the most rare anamorphic lens that I have ever owned -- the Zeiss Ikon Anamorphot 22/1.5x. It is almost impossible to find any information on this lens. I could not find any pictures of the lens, nor any test footage. In fact, the only reason that I knew that it existed was a tip from anamorphic Godfather Kostas Petsas, who also has one. He compares his Ikon to the Iscomorphot 8/1.5x.
 
Like the Iscomorphot 8/1.5x, it's an 8mm "baby" lens that is fully rack-focusable. The helicoid is smooth and has a very manageable throw, so focusing is no problem at all as you will see in the test video above. The slightly wider diameter actually makes the lens easier to focus the baby Isco, and of course it is much more focus-friendly than the strenuous focus throw of the Iscorama.
 

 
It's a little bigger than the Iscomorphot 1.5x (front filter thread is about 43mm, and rear diameter is about 32mm) but still much smaller and lighter than the Iscomorphot 2x or the Iscorama. It's nice not to have to add in a support system to hold the weight of the additional lens. Coupled with a DSLR, a taking lens with a silver finish and a silver clamp from Redstan, this could be a great stealth anamorphic setup.
 
I think that perhaps the most substantial difference between the Ikon and the Iscomorphot is that the Ikon is usable when the taking lens is wide open (at least at f/1.8). Though it is not razor sharp like the Iscorama, I don't see a limitation here. 
 
The minimum focus distance is impressive. I've been able to focus as close as 22" wide open without any diopters.
 
I haven't really put it through the paces yet, but from what I've seen, the lens has some nice, understated character. It's a lot less smeary than some of the 8mm anamorphics that I have used. The flares are thinly stretched blue ovals, similar to my Moller 32/2x (but I think that I may like the Zeiss flares even more).
 

 
I have been able to use it with my FS100 with a 50mm lens, which is usually my go-to lens when I first get an anamorphic lens. I'll have to test it to see if I can get away with using a wider taking lens.
 
I am excited about this lens. It is the easiest, simplest anamorphic lens that I have ever used and the image is very pleasing. I think that this is a winner. If anyone else has one, I'd love to compare notes.

I'm in Northern VA too. I'm very familiar with the herons of Great Falls and I really like the photo that you got. Nice shot!
 
If you can wait, I'd suggest the BlackMagic Pocket Cinema Camera $1000) with the Panasonic Lumix 100-300mm lens (goes for around $500). If not, the $1,300 GH3 gives you weather sealing and 60 frames at 1080P (for slow motion; no other DSLRs that I know of offer this). Here is a sample that I found with that very combination:
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XlCCaI-ee1g

So:
 
Panasonic GH3: $1300
Extra Rechargeable Lithium-ion Battery: $80
Sandisk Extreme 64GB 95MB/s SD Card: $120
Lumix G Vario 100-300mm F/4-5.6 OIS Lens: $500
 
TOTAL: $2,000
 
Replace that with a GH2, and you can shave $600 off of that price. You'll lose 1080P slow motion (you'll only get 720P) and the weather sealing, but you won't have to worry about moire patterns as you do sometimes with the GH3.

The stopper on mine was a plastic bump that was easily removed with the dremel. With regard to making a new stopper in a more favorable position, I don't believe that it will work. As I recall, the new stopper would need to stick out past the barrel, getting in the way of the full range of focus. It's best just to leave the barrel without a stopper. It's pretty easy to tell when you've focused too close and you're about to come off the threads (and it's easy to screw back on when you do).

I do not own any Canon DSLRs at the moment, but I just went through it and it's a useful technical guide. 

lesson learned....  
 
not one person dealing with this issue seems to have contributed positively at all to this forum.  Just come here to take take take.  either selling or buying, they bring NOTHING to the forum.  Personally I think there should be a stop to all this posting of ebay listings, personal sales, etc.  at least topics of this nature should be only postable and visible by regulars.  
 
Also, someone please close the ebay listings topic.  this has to be the most ridiculous idea ever.  Share your findings with the world, kill any chance of you or anyone else savvy to anamorphics getting a bargain because everyone and their grandma can come in and see a run down of anamorphics worth bidding on.  If it were a secret topic to regulars I'd understand, but literally, I'd say that topic alone is contributing 50% towards the current silly inflation of anything with a squeeze ratio! 

"Traces de champignons mais ça se restaure."
 
"Traces of mushrooms but can be restored."   That was a chuckle.

I had a film at the International Wildlife Film Festival last year, and I talked to many nature doc DPs about their techniques and some of the cameras that they were using. I was surprised by their answers. The Panasonic Varicam came up a few times, as did Red Epic, the Weisscam and even the AF100.
 
As a sidenote, I am actually contemplating doing another nature film, perhaps with the BMPCC coupled with the Panny 100-300mm. With the crop factor, that seems like that could be an insane combination for nature doc work.

It struck me while I was writing about the Iscomorphot 8/2x that perhaps there is a better way to do this. If you have ever been to over to Personal-View, each piece of gear has its own thread and the initial post includes info, photos, and video clips. If someone creates a duplicate topic, Vitaliy redirects people and closes it.
 
I think that what we need here is a sub-forum, similar to the way that 'GH2 Hack' is right now (maybe we can call the 'Anamorphic Directory' or something like that), and a dedicated moderator who can make sure that every known anamorphic lens has its own thread. Then forum members could update it with their own findings. It's all easily searchable, and it becomes a living, self-perpetuating database of anamorphic knowledge.

Nahua, I'm always envious of you when I see your footage. That is some luscious green scenery and beautiful Hawaiian sunset. It's nice to be able to enjoy them both at the same time!

I haven't authored one in a while, but I think that you used to be able to make a Google Docs spreadsheet editable to anyone with an email address. Also, I think that it saves versions of itself in case we get some spherical lens fanboy who tries to delete it or SPAM it.

Maybe it could be a spreadsheet on Google Docs. That way, anyone could contribute to it.

Thanks.
 
Based on what you are saying, it sounds like you may have a rack-focusable 2x anamorphic that costs around 1/40 of what an Iscorama goes for these days...
 
This sounds too good to be true. What's the catch?

Does the magnified focus assist still work when a monitor is plugged in via HDMI? That was a big problem with the GH2.

I can't decide whether I love this lens or hate it. It is very easy to use with rack-focusing and no need for diopters (focuses as close as 1' or so) but there is often ghosting if I shoot faster than f/4 or sometimes f/5.6. But at those apertures, it acts like a shallow DOF amplifier. Still, I do lose the light.

Here it is coupled with my Helios 44:

[media]http://vimeo.com/51600001[/media]

Some years ago, Philip Bloom opened my eyes to DSLR video. His work has helped pave the way for a lot of bigger and better projects for me. Most were lit. Some weren't. A successful image is a successful image.

Back to the camera: Sebastian at Cinema5D posted that "full operability" for the MFT model will likely come at a later date via firmware update (probably after they iron out proprietary issues with Panasonic and Olympus; here is the link: [url="http://***URL not allowed***/news/?p=12831"]http://***URL not allowed***/news/?p=12831[/url] ). Put that together with projected firmware updates to allow file deletion-in camera and Ikan's cheap battery solution, and you're well on your way to a pretty shootable camera. Still a lot of variables, but there is hope.

A very elegant solution.

I love the idea of this, though I wish that it were a 0.3, 0.6, 0.9 system rather than a fader. With a fader of any kind, you are always going to experience some level of polarization and unless you are free to turn both polarizers (usually you can only manipulate the front one), you won't be able to control the amount:
 
https://vimeo.com/26687398

Mind blown. I am speechless.

I skipped the GH3 and kept my GH2 because I believe that Panasonic has something up its sleeve. Here's hoping!

Mine came in this morning. Serial number #05. I have been couped up in the office all day working on an edit, but even in some quick shots of my coworkers, I am blown away by what I am seeing. This lens is quite unlike anything else I have ever used. I am not going to say too much right now, but there is so much possibility here...
 
I hope to post some footage this weekend.

Mine came in this morning. Serial number #05. I have been couped up in the office all day working on an edit, but even in some quick shots of my coworkers, I am blown away by what I am seeing. This lens is quite unlike anything else I have ever used. I am not going to say too much right now, but there is so much possibility here...
 
I hope to post some footage this weekend.

I use the Glidecam HD4000 with my GH2 (the top had additional counterweights). The HD2000 is probably better suited for this particular camera, but there's a good possibility that my next camera will be larger than the GH2. The arm brace helps a lot. Even with the arm brace, I can only fly the thing for two or three minutes at a time before my arm is ready to fall off.
 
All that being said, if I had back and/or neck problems I would go for the lightest setup possible.

I skipped the GH3 and kept my GH2 because I believe that Panasonic has something up its sleeve. Here's hoping!

My wish list is even shorter than Andrew's: I'd love to see a GH3 with no moire, 10-bit 422 HDMI output, and a convenient way to connect an XLR (like the "grip-style" add on for the Sony A99) for around $3,500.

It's a height-adjustable baseplate (readily available on eBay) with the baseplate removed. I bought a drill bit that is a hair wider than the girth of the dovetail screws and then drilled two holes in it and the screws go right through. It works pretty well.