nahua
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Posts posted by nahua
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I just transcode direct - no stretching. I did this with the "5K" h265 4:3 files. Transcode h265 to ProRes. Then in Premiere, just change the aspect ratio to 2:1 (interpret footage). Plays back fine. Or you could use Davinci. But I let the program stretch the footage, not the transcode stage.
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Here are a few pics of it. No electrical contacts. Fits tight on my GH4. It might have problems with some older FD lenses. I remember having a hard time with my FD 50mm F1.4 SSC. However I didn't have problems with my FD 35mm F2 or FD 85mm F1.8.
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On 5/18/2017 at 1:36 PM, tomsemiterrific said:
The older Metabones version looked perfectly good. B&H still has it up, but a message saying it's no longer offered. The version they now sell on B&H, over 400 bucks, has electronics--that's nonsense for FD lenses. Is that the one you're speaking of, or the older version?
Yeah mine is the older one. I bought it when it first came out, 2014 or 2015 I think. it doesn't have any contacts on it. I'll take a pic of it tomorrow and post it.
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Metabones is the best one. I've used it a lot with FD zooms and primes. Fit is tight for me. It was pricey, but I've had no problems. I like FD lenses as well. Older coating means it works well with anamorphic adapters. You can check out my use of the FD 35-105mm zoom in this video:
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On 4/1/2017 at 6:24 AM, Hans Punk said:
Another option (since you are in NYC) is to send it to Bernie at Super 16 to work his magic on it. He is probably the best authority to judge if it is a lost cause or not (re: fungus removal and cleaning). He can give you a free estimate when it is in his hands, then it's up to you if the cost is worth it for you.
He is a wizard.
I've had a couple of these lenses myself in the past (repaired one in a similar condition to yours). They are ok - but not worth the crazy hype and inflated prices that they are listed for these days. Too much CA and highlight softness IMHO - unless using small sensor camera, and willing to stop the taking lens down to f4-f5.6 to get decent sharpness. It appears to be let down by it's front diopter - causing highlight smear and 'globs' at wide apertures.
Thanks for the info Hans. I recently got this lens too. The lens itself is optically good, but the focus is so stiff. I'll check with Bernie and see if he can regrease it.
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I understand what you're saying. It's not really 6K, just like UHD isn't really 4K either. But sticking to aspect ratios, I guess you can say it's close enough. Most of it is marketing anyway. Red, Sony, etc all claim 5K, 6K or 8K and it's not really that size.
To answer your question about recording, on a 64GB card:
8bit UHD 16:9 30P - 1hr 24min
8bit Anamorphic 4:3 30P - 1hr 24min
10bit UHD 16:9 30P - 54min
8bit UHD 16:9 60P - 54min
8bit Anamorphic 4:3 60P - 54min
8bit 6K Photo Mode 4:3 30P - 41min
Continuous recording is possible with 6K Photo Mode. Again it's just like 4K Photo Mode on the GH4 - full video and audio recording. But it is HEVC H265, so transcoding is a must in order to edit. I would show you some of the longer shots of 4-5min, but it would be HUGE, around 60-80GB. Transcode, edit, and then the render time... Rendering just the small clips are something in the order of 30min. If I did 5 min it might be a couple of hours on my mac. Definitely something to consider with these large files.
The GH5 really is an amazing camera. At one time I was really considering getting a Sony FS5 or FS7 just for the 4K 60P and the slomo. But I'm so glad that I waited. To have Anamorphic 4:3 modes means I don't have to do crazy cropping with 16:9. Plus with the added benefit of better codecs and larger anamorphic coming soon, it's almost like a mini RED or Alexa. As for all those people returning theirs or complaining about AF - well this isn't the camera for them. This camera really is for filmmakers. It has a lot of the tools that filmmakers need. The new Waveform tool, peaking is improved, etc etc. There's just so much value for the money.
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The GH5 isn't made by Sony. Sure the camera gets warm after an hour or more, but I have yet to see any warning of shutdown. Doesn't matter if it's 6K or 4K, this camera is just built solid. I just shot a live event that was almost 2 hours and it was just fine. Even the battery lasts over 2 hours. Can't say that about Sony.
As for 6K Photo Mode - it is exactly like 4K Photo Mode on the GH4. It not only records video but sound also. And it has the same aspect ratios - 4:3, 3:2 and 1:1. The short video below is a 6K clip with audio:
The bummer part is that it is a "photo" mode - so it is accessed in the photo mode dials (MASP), not the movie dial. This means that it is considered a "photo", and as such the old picture styles are the only ones available. No VLOG, no Rec709L. CineV and CineD however are still available. Also, the metering is way off, like 1-2 stops. The easy way is to go to movie mode, set the exposure, then go the photo mode, and record.
The roadmap for 6K Anamorphic is clear because it's very similar to the GH4. In the beginning, the GH4 only had 4K photo mode. It was only a year later that they decided to make a dedicated Anamorphic movie mode. I look forward to 6K Anamorphic later this summer!
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The video is very helpful. I'm still on the fence, and from the video it looks very similar to the larger brother the FM module. However the small size for small anamorphics makes it interesting. Please post more footage if possible, thanks!
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20 hours ago, Andrew Reid said:
The ALL-I 10bit codec coming in firmware update at 400Mbit/s should be easier on the CPU than the current more complex IPB 150Mbit codec.
In the mean time you will need to transcode using EditReady to ProRes. That's what I'm doing.
Thankfully it is FAST to process the files.
@Andrew Reid I just purchased Editready. But it doesn't seem to recognize the mp4 files from 6K photo mode. Do you have any ideas? Tips or settings that I need to set? Or maybe the frame size is just too large for ProRes? Thanks in advance!
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GH5 now has less crop, more like 2x. GH4 was 2.2x. I also had a 40mm Canon which was fine on the GH4. I also have metabones speedbooster, both Ultra and XL. Either way, use a 50mm lens for wides on the GH5.
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Yes I got the new sleeve for the Baby Hypergonar. With the Rangefinder and Vari-ND filter, it becomes a very front heavy setup. I find I can go with 35mm as widest, with the Vari-ND I get a lot of vigenette. I tried a 28mm but it just was too much. I hope to get the CoreDNA when it's available in June, and then test it out again.
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Just an update on using this app:
- It gets the video feed from the Panasonic App. So you can shoot 4:3 and 16:9 no problems. Then it stretches the image.
- This is both good and bad. The Panasonic App image is like 480p. This can make focusing a real pain. I wish it was 720p at least. I have missed many shots because of this.
- Working 4:3 on an iPad mini is really great. Like having a 7" monitor, maybe bigger. But the 480p image sucks though. Works well if shooting regular (non-anamorphic) video.
- There is sometimes a severe lag when starting recording. It can be up to 5 seconds. So if you like to record items right away, the lag can be a problem. Also, it's a wifi connection, so the signal will cut out a lot in high traffic areas.
- The rear LCD on the G85 or GH4 will shut off after 1-2 minutes. That means that you can't select focus points, or any touch screen functions at all. So you need to switch to the Panasonic App to change settings while recording.
- Overlays would be really helpful and I hope he can do something with it. However, it is a simple app that gets its feed from the Panasonic App. I don't think he can put an overlay. The other thing that would be good is a histogram. With the rear LCD shutting off, you lose the ability to watch the histogram as well. (Panasonic App doesn't show the histogram either).
I think for run-n-gun, the app works well. But for serious work, I think an external monitor solution is still best. The worst part is the video feed at 480p. It just doesn't work for serious focus needs. But the ability to use an iPad mini or iPhone 7s means that you can have a great monitoring solution on the go.
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On 2/14/2017 at 4:23 AM, Ian Edward Weir said:
I also wanted you to know, that this was the older version of the Baby Jacket. The new version is much nicer with a kerned rim but will not slip into the Core DNA. You can make a custom clamp out of lens hood and then connect it to new Baby Hypergonar Jacket clamp from Redstan. He make the best Baby Hypergonar gear.
Thanks again Ian. I did get Redstan's clamp and it works well. I have to get a step ring for my rangefinder, but I'll be testing it soon. Just wondering what is the widest you can go? I have a GH4 + Metabones speedbooster, and I can use a 35mm with slight vignette in 4:3 mode. If I crop the edges it comes out well.
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I use a Sony WA adapter for their handy cams. The front thread of the BH is almost 55mm, so just use a step ring to attach a WA adapter. I used the Sony because they are readily available and cheap. Because the one I'm using is 0.7x, it makes lenses a little wider. Handling is tough though. The weight of the WA adapter makes the setup extremely front heavy. I always use rails to mount the lens. Also the front rotates, so make sure your lens is clean.
- nickgorey and Tito Ferradans
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OK thanks Ian! I'll definitely look into it.
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I have a question about the Rectilux - does it mount directly to the taking lens? How does the baby hypergonar mount? Or are you using another clamp like redstan's? Thanks!
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I see your listing on ebay. I have some questions: 1) It's dual focus right? I've seen Ian post it with the Rectilux. 2) Mounting - do you have a redstan or similar clamp? 3) And I'm not sure how the Rectilux works for mounting or if the Rectilux can be used as the mounting point. 4) Recommended taking lenses? Especially wide end. Thanks!
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Thank you @Neumann Films for the test footage! Just awesome stuff, I really love the look of the images! I think there's a lot of latitude in images and they look really good. Kinda of a cleaner GH4 with more color information. Attached are stills of my color grading.
Color graded video on YT:
Premiere Pro worked well to view all the files, but the 10bit files didn't work with Davinci Resolve. So I rendered to Prores in Premiere Pro, color graded in Davinci, then edited final in Premiere Pro. Neat video for clips #2-4, warp stabilize for clip #5.
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I recommend this app too. Used it on my GH4 and G85. Works really well and I really like the squeeze options. Just a few notes:
- I like to change focus for AF using the touch screen. However the screen goes into sleep mode after 10 seconds, and if I touch the screen it says "camera is under remote control". So I have to go into the Panasonic Image App to change focus on the fly.
- G7 workaround is good for G85 and works well.
- very little lag
- for manual focusing especially with 2x anamorphics, using focus punch-in BEFORE recording also punches in the image on the app
- very good for handheld gimbal use. So not just for anamorphic squeeze. I'll take some pics of my setup later.
Although I thought it was pricey at first, this is a real great app. Now I can use my iPhone 6s Plus or iPad Mini2 for a monitor and it works really well. I'm used to my SmallHD DP4 with custom squeeze ratio, but this app is a way better solution. Plus I can now record 4:3 anamorphic with monitoring and larger internal recording size. I had to rent an Atomos Shogun before to monitor (and of course external recording) and it's also a hassle for all the wires and rigging. This is a much simpler solution and easier for run-n-gun or mobile solutions. Thank you Mjas for this great app!!!
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@danreddingvideo You have all good old lenses there. I have owned all of them and they all flare well. In fact there's a ton of flaring in your video. But you're looking for sharp long streaks, and if you want more then you need to look at other lenses. The older lenses flare because of the old single-coating of the lenses. But the drawback is that they have a more "smeared" effect and not the sharp lines you're looking for. Those sharp lines occur more with double or more modern coating on lenses. But that drawback is you need to have a very very bright lightsource, like the sun. You can look at some old zooms, like the Tokina 28-80mm F2.8, Nikon 28-80mm F2.8, or something similar. The more lens elements, the more flaring artifacts there is. It's hard finding the right combination of taking lens with Anamorphic.
Here's an old test I did with my Kowa B&H 2x (Same as your Kowa 8z). Strong lights will get the flares you're looking for.
https://vimeo.com/108202883
My GH5 Anamorphic Gimbal Setup
In: Cameras
Posted
My GH5 setup with Baby Hypergonar and Aivascope Focuser 8 - on Pilotfly gimbal
First gimbal test with Focuser 8: