nahua

@Tito You would rethink 4K if you could shoot 4:3 or 3:2 like I'm doing with my GH4.  And you can always downscale 4K to 1080P if you want.  So much less hassle than ML RAW.  File sizes are so much smaller and I can do real time previews too.  If it wasn't for that, I'd agree with you.

I also think the guide should be redone.  Maybe a combination of Andrew's and Tito's guide.  Both are excellent!

The 2x or 1.8x look will always be the preferred anamorphic format.  I think the new options are very welcome and open a lot of doors for everyone.  Unfortunately at this point you have to buy and experiment yourself to find the right options.

I would send it in for repair.  They are very good with their service.  I sent mine in after I dropped it and they repaired it within a week.

Here are stills from my upcoming short film "Dueling Alphas".  Shot with GH4 4K (firmware 1.0) with Iscorama 36.

Looks better than that Drive movie.  Great visuals, like something from the 70's or early 80's!

My first test with the FM Module.  This is a few BTS, I'll try and edit the rest of the video later.  One note, a lot of the footage has the adapter misaligned.  I had my friend take the video while I was shooting photos.  He didn't tell me until later that it moved on its mount, so there's vignette and also the top of the frame isn't on the same plane as the rest of the image.  First 4K upload to youtube as well, I hope it works for those people who have large monitors.

The taking lens does make a difference.  Even the much touted Helios 44-2 has to be at F5.6 or F8 to be sharp, with or without diopters.  Yes diopters help with sharpness somewhat, but it doesn't really help for shooting wider than F2.8 on some lenses.  You just have to test lenses out to see which works.  If you do a forum search there was a thread when the Anamorphot first came out with compatible lenses listed.

​Thanks for making this.  I look forward to more videos shot with the FM.

You can shoot at F2.8 for some lenses.  I shot with a Nikon 50mm F1.8 at F2 and F2.8 with good results.  Remember that you need to make sure that the Near/Normal focus is used correctly.  It adjusts differently with different taking lenses. 

​It doesn't cover the entire range.  But since I'm not doing a super-closeup to far-landscape shot (and just try it with the huge focus throw), it's not much of a problem.  I am getting another lens gear, so I can stack the two together and it should be just fine.

Thanks Cosimo!  I got an Isco blue ultrastar.  It fits perfectly.  However I'll be doing surgery on my Sankor (like you did) to test it out.  I'm not liking the Isco because it doesn't flare as well.  Sharp, but I want more flares.

​Here's a comparison to the other anamorphics.  Size is an issue, as is the massive weight.  I normally shoot with a rig anyway, but this thing is easily noticed.

Happy New Year!!!

I'm finally happy with this setup.  Not perfect but it works so far.  I'll try and shoot some tests this weekend.

@Andy Lee - I'm looking for another zoom to work with Isco Ultrastars.  The 28-70 is only usable from 50-70mm.  So I'm thinking of a 50-150mm lens, like the Sigma 50-150mm F2.8.  What do you think?  I could use the extra length, but I want the constant aperture.  I know there are Canon FD lenses too, but those are F4.  Any thoughts?  Thanks!

Thanks Rudolf!  You really can't go wrong with the GH4, or A7S too.  They are all good cameras now.

I used to have Contax Zeiss, sold all of them.  They are very "clinical" in rendering and contrast.  I wanted something warmer so I have moved to Russian lenses and now the Tokina 28-70mm.  The only way you can find out about lenses is to use them unfortunately.

Nice video Cosimo!  I know how to do it, just need to drill the aluminum piece and have a bunch of grub screws to hold the anamorphic.  I just wish it was already done.  I'm not great with power tools so this is going to be a challenge.  Thanks for all your advice; Hans too.  Just a little more hard work to make this worth it.

I just got mine.  Man this thing is huge and heavy.  HUGE!  The biggest problem I have is that the anamorphic is a stressed member.  The clamp they include has such a small footprint, and it's the only thing holding up everything.  With the rotating front section, it makes it very difficult to support it all.  And that rotating front section - damn the travel is so long.  Again, hard to put a lens support when it travels that much - maybe an inch and a half travel?  I got an Isco Bluestar so it works well, but I can't imagine putting in a Sankor or Kowa.  Now I understand why Cosimo had to drill the aluminum tube piece - otherwise I can't see how you'd secure the small size of the other anamorphics.  I'll be doing some measurements and seeing if I can get some support for the Kowa, but for now I'll be shooting with the Isco.  I might get a Schneider just to compare which is better.  I really wish they found a way to make the inner section longer so that you can use it as the stressed member, not the anamorphic.  Overall build quality is good, but the front cap doesn't fit well and I have to use gaffer tape to secure it.  For a first run I think this thing has a lot of potential.  Did I say it was HUGE?  LOL

Understand that the SLR Magic isn't sharp with lenses faster than F2.8.  Check out my video below, you'll see that a lot of lenses wide open just aren't sharp.  That's the nature of anamorphics, very few of them are sharp at F1.4 or F2.0.  Usually the projector lenses are OK with wide open apertures, but the SLR Magic isn't.  You usually need to stop down to F4 or F5.6 even F8 to get sharp results.  Make sure you do a lot of tests.  Also - Full Frame (like A7S or Canon 5DmkIII) gets worse results.  Smaller sensors like GH4, BMPCC are better suited for anamorphics.  If you don't like the SLR Magic, then it's time to consider something else.

​Hans thank you for making this video!  OK I'm not so scared now.  I definitely understand how to do this.  Now I can take my Sankor apart hehe.

​You are one brave man!  I'd be shitting all over myself.  Yeah I'm going the Isco route unless someone can find another way to mount it.  I don't think I would be drilling holes into my new FM adapter.  I just can't be doing these kinds of modifications.  Damn!

​This is my test with the GH4 + Tokina 28-70 + Kowa 2x.  I think the GH4 has the most potential, and it works even better with 4K photo mode recording.  The video was shot 3:2 aspect ratio.  I also had a hacked GH2 then a GH3.  The GH4 by far is the best of all them.

​This makes me happy and sad at the same time.  Nice that you made it fit.  But the work that went into it...damn.  I really hate taking apart lenses, and this looks like a nightmare for me.  Please post some tests.  I'd really like to see if it's worth hacking it to fit or just going the Isco/Schneider route.  BTW Cosimo thanks for all your hard work - deals and hacking!

​Thanks Cosimo!  And you wait till you see my crazy lens contraption for surfing videos.  It's nuts!

​I wish they actually tried different lenses to see which really fits.  I saw the demo so I kinda knew I'd have to get an Isco or Schneider.  Still my anamorphic collection is growing.  I'd really like to pare it down and I sure hope the FM works well.

​I got this Tokina on Andy's suggestions.  Really great lens.  Has a soft focus look until it's sharp, and the F2.8 works really good with speedbooster.  I just wish the focus ring could be locked, kinda wonky push pull for manual/AF "toggle".   I also wish it was single coated, but still flares well.  Very good for people shots with the soft look.