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Davide is 100% correct. Pair that GH7 with one of the cheap Panasonic/Olympus kit servo zooms and you have a tiny camera that works great for street work. Or bring the Olympus 12-100 if you're willing to tolerate the extra weight. Add a couple of fast primes for shooting at night and you have a fantastic usable kit. Otherwise, if you just can't stomach micro 4/3 for... some reason, there's nothing wrong with the A7S III. If light weight is a concern, I'd swap for the f/4 versions of both lenses. You'll still be able to get pretty nice shallow DOF and the lenses will be substantially smaller/lighter. Plus if you're shooting on the street in some of the cities, having smaller lenses won't be shouting "rob me" as loudly as a big white f/2.8 70-200, for example. I'd also give serious consideration to super 35. Fuji has a lot of great options and Sony has the FX30 (or whatever the non-cinema camera version of that is - A6700? Something like that?).

GH7

Hi, I might go on a job trip to south america soon for a job. Video + photo. Travelling between locations, run and gun situations + interviews. So i might want to get a new hybrid camera. (S5 and s5ii atm, but I don't seem to like the highlight rolloff and the colors at times when using it run and gun, while in studio it works as an charm) . But I am unsure which one would be the best. Thinking about an a7siii (SD cards) with 24-70mm 2.8 and 70-200mm 2.8. + gymbal + Lav set. I once used an a7s ii in central america, where I liked the highlight rolloff and the colors of the camera. Low weight and speed is key I think. Long battery life as well. (No vlock batteries as they are too heavy. The camera should not overheat. And only wish to use 1 body for now for weight reasons) Any other recommendations? Cheers,

It will be available in any colour you like as long as its brown.

Jon Snow lives his life on YouTube.

Well you can but I'd only spend it on cameras and lenses as well. I've got all four of the MFT PZ lenses (2 Panasonic and 2 Olympus) and they are lurking somewhere around where I am at the moment. If I can dig them out and get some time next week, I can put them on a P4K and do some quick shots for you if you are keen. Won't be anything fancy, it will just be a couple of locked off shots of a Northern seaside town well past its mid-20th century pomp but it'll all be at f5.6 😉

Just got the LP-E6P battery and it make R5C much less stressful lol, extra 30min of recording is quite nice so don't have constantly worry about the battery life.

Few additional findings and notes: Tested it in bright sunlight conditions. It is great. Fully isolates the eye. Because it perfectly isolates the eye from external light, once brightness is adjusted there is no need to change it. Optics actually are better than thought initially. It has several lenses not just one loupe. Most likely metal housing was designed and used for smaller sensors - 0.5''. Current one is bigger at 0.7'' that's why far end corners aren't perfectly visible. I saw this only when was feeding it with signal from my laptop. When shooting with Sony ZV-E1 as already mentioned it displays a 3:2 crop at 1620x1080px and everything is perfectly visible and in focus. one relatively simple modification would be to cut the current cable and solder a female HDMI and probably glue it to the side of the EVF. This would allow to use better or custom HDMI cables. size is just perfect for cameras like Sony ZV-E1 and all other mirrorless cameras, especially when you don't want to use a rig and have just the camera and a lens, probably also a cage as it is in my case. Nice experience. Makes shooting with an EVF really comfortable. The more I use it, the more I like it 😀

Short answer: no. Whole mounting part can be changed but it will require skills and experience to create and make a new one

It's so easy to focus on the camera as the single most important element and if some folks wish to believe that's what it's all about, best of luck to them `and their lives within the comments section on YouTube. It's not the camera. It's not the lens. It's not the grade. It's not the lighting. It's not the budget. It's not the creative talent. It's all of these elements and that is what a camera body is, just one single element, but alone it is nothing.

Cam Mackey hears your call to action and is now working on it.

Raining in Seoul today, so pushed the GH7 + 14-140mm combo to its limits, including the in-camera digital zoom to get to 179mm, equivalent to 358mm on FF!! Don't judge the lens by these images, apart from having a film emulation applied, I was also shooting through two layers of hotel glass on a range of angles, and the rain and dirt on the outside of the glass wouldn't have helped either. My normal thoughts when shooting through dirty glass is to have the fastest lens possible to blur it all into oblivion, but the DOF calculator says that a 50mm F1.2 lens focused at 100m will have 41.6m in focus in front of the focal plane, but the 140mm F5.6 lens also focused at 100m will only have 30.2m in focus in front of the focal plane, so the 140mm will blur the raindrops on the glass more, presumably because of the longer focal length. Win! This is the situation I had in mind when buying the 14-140mm lens, although obviously I knew I would use it for other things too. I must admit that I've been using the long end while out and about much more than I thought I would, so not regretting the purchase at all.

Well, the 8K sensor for the X9 is generally acknowledged as superior to the 6K one and it's (as far as almost anybody can tell) the same sensor that is used in the Panasonic S1R Mark II, a $3,300 camera. That camera compares favorably to the EOS R5 without being enormously better. You can get a used EOS R5 for around $2,000. Having both an EOS R5 and both versions of the X9 (having bought the 6K and upgraded), I can safely say that the image from the EOS R5 is pretty close to the X9. Plus if we're talking about shows on Netflix, Chimp Empire (recommended to be by another forum member here) is gorgeous. That one was shot on the Canon C70. Someone listed one in the local Facebook buy/sell camera group today for about $3,500. The Creator was shown on theater screens everywhere. It was shot on the FX3. The Sony ZV-E1 which is available used for about $1,700 uses the same sensor. In a recent short film contest, a film that I shot tied for best cinematography - mine was shot on a combo of Komodo-X and C70. The one that tied it? Shot on a Panasonic S5, a camera that is available used for about $800-900. Even if I cared about awards, I wouldn't be upset about the tie - the other film looked great on the big screen. So... I'm not really sure anymore what point you're trying to make about the Ronin here. Yes, it was used for a Netflix show. Other high-end prosumer cameras have also been used for Netflix shows before so this isn't really novel. Nearly every camera on the market right now is superior technically to the Red One M-X (also available for under $2,000 on the used market) - the camera used to shoot films like The Social Network, Ché, and District 9, all of which were shown on cinema screens worldwide. All of this means it's a great time to be a filmmaker, but that's hardly unique to this one camera. 😃

For full frame, 6K and various flavors of ProRes that's a very very small number of cameras. Even more so if the camera AND lens totals around US$10k (the 32mm Cooke lens used for the entire show costs US$4,500 brand-new; the 6K version of the camera US5k)

Maybe gothic weddings is the way to go? OMG, of course it is. This travelling stuff will rot your brain I tell ya! But better to refer to Perfect Days than to Train To Busan - I'm not interested in a holiday THAT exciting. But talking about contrast ratios, yes, the frame grabs were for reference of how dark they print finished films and how much contrast they tend to have in the finished print. The files from the GH7 are incredible, and certainly the best I've ever owned, so dealing with these challenges is new to me. Previously I would have files clipped in-camera and the shots would just be binned, or they'd be super contrasty and without proper colour management I'd be struggling to make them look natural and without radical colour casts etc, so this is a very welcome development! I wouldn't mind holidaying in overcast conditions actually - where do I apply to get one of those remotes that changes the weather?

Man, my 50 years are starting to show. I now remember all of this. At least I didn't technically quote you to you. And I also remember how fantastic your focus module works. I need to stop buying cameras and lenses and send my money to you.

I did a post about it a while back on the OG Pocket where it’s kind of accidentally par focal at f5.6 but maybe on a native Panasonic body it might be properly corrected ? I did a video of it on the P4K to illustrate the functionality of the BM controller app that I wrote and it was so so with that as you can see when it shows the servo zoom function . If you’re looking for a cheap 12-32 then the Panasonic f3.5-5.6 kit lens one is limited functionality wise (no manual focus or aperture) but has OS and is absolutely tiny. I did some stuff (again with the OG Pocket) here. And it also has a companion lens in the same vein in the 35-100mm f4-5.6 to make a tiny two lens kit with a great range.

Picked up a used GH6 and got the LogC firmware and I am loving it. I have a Lens Turbo in FD mount and the underrated 35-105mm Canon lens, but am looking to keep this set up as native as possible. I picked up a 7artisans 24mm 1.4 on the cheap and am pleasantly surprised by the lens, especially since every review I could find of it, trashes it. Since almost every review was with the lens on an aps-c camera, I assume some of the goop is cropped out with m4/3. Anyway, I'm looking for a cheap zoom, probably a Panasonic kit, that is better than it should be. I intend on making it my Spielberg f/5.6 lens, but then I got to wondering if any of the kit lenses are accidentally parfocal? I'd love for the little 14-42 PZ to be that lens, but for some reason I doubt it. I assume I'll eventually give in and get the 12-35mm for the added IBIS, but the point of the camera is to keep it on the cheap. Here are a few frames from the 7artisans in case anyone is interested. These were my first few shots with the lens and the LogC profile. Other than the Arri LUT and an s-curve, no construction equipment was harmed with this set up...

If just one of these ^ happens, it would be ossum 🫡

Just like the Zhiyun light, they will come with silly fake leather trim and Cam Mackey's name plastered over every square inch of the camera, the strap, the case, etc. They'll also have a filter that you can't turn off that gives everything a yellow tint. The x model will come with a hat and it'll have built-in wheels and a special "X" button that makes the camera itself start doing sick burnouts in the sand. There will also be a special Gerald Undone edition of both cameras that will have a special extra-super-hdr mode that increases the rolling shutter to 41.5ms. On this model, the leatherette will be purple. Finally, there will be a Matt Granger special pocket edition which is the same as a normal edition, but comes with some extra large pocket cargo pants.

i mean the fairly obvious answer to the question is quality of light. other than the second to last set just generally being too dark and contrasty, you can just tell by the highlights hitting the road and the sharp shadows that you're dealing with very hard light. during sunset, the sun becomes a way softer source, which is why everything suddenly looks way nicer. compare your references: Perfect Days (which is btw set in Tokyo lol): the first still has fairly harsh sunlight, but that creates that fun tree shadow on the toilet. all of the other stills you chose from the movie are during overcast weather where the sun is naturally diffused and gives you a more low con look. The last medium close still from Kill Bill is a great example tbh. Do you think it looks natural? Because to me that super harsh light hitting the background dunes and car certainly doesn't, if the light that's hitting the actor is modified to such a softened and bounced back degree. the matrix: tiny bits of hard light as edge lights around the character, but everything else is lit super soft, and some intended contrast ratio. same thing with the killer. Super soft first still, the virtual paris background has some harshness but our character is in silhouette in the second, and the last one is mainly soft, but has a hard edge light on the side. i like this one, but i dont like how hot the highlights are on the right side. i would either try to power window the exposure down there, or use a diffusion filter for blowing these highlights out and making them feel a bit magical. you can see some great examples of that in wong kar wai's films. up the exposure and lower contrast slightly on that second to last set, try to power window whatever's distracting to curate the viewer, and they'll look pretty decent. this is what i can do with about 10 minutes of work by putting your thumbnails in resolve. basic fixes for legibility, but still going for contrast:

Interesting. This is the kind of thing I was looking for last year. See this thread: I ended up getting a Kinotehnik LCDVFe. It's really nice overall and does the job very well. (There are only two things I don't like about it. One is that you can't have zebras and focus assist on at the same time. The other is that it takes 4 AA batteries. Wish it could also take a Sony NP-F battery as well. (I'm powering it from the camera and that's good but drains the camera battery. (I also wish it was a bit smaller in size.) For this V780H EVF, it seems pretty good for the price.

That's a great find! Really cool that it draws power from the HDMI. The compromises sound workable. I just wish the cord wasn't attached.

If the rumor’s true and they’re dropping two new cameras, I’m not even that fussed about how they differ from each other. I just want to know how they plan to make them stand out from the S5II and S5IIX. How are they gonna explain that to customers? Just the 60p crop? Seriously, how do they expect all these models to survive in a market that’s getting tighter by the minute? And it’s not like they’re Canon, Nikon, or Sony. Beats me, feels like a magic trick at this point.