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Hey everyone, Brand new Mp3 tracks are ready for your projects...free as always to use with attribution, just like my thousands of other music tracks. They're on my Jazz / Big Band page: "SHUFFLIN" (LoFi) "SLAPSTICK" (LoFi) "BIG BAND MAN" (LoFi) https://soundimage.org/jazz-big-band/ PLEASE READ If you can, please consider helping to support my efforts. My website is 100% ad-free and I pay for everything myself (including my keyboard synthesizers which are very expensive.) Your contributions make what I do possible. How to support me: You can make a small donation here: https://soundimage.org/donate/ You can get a genre music pack here: https://soundimage.org/ogg-music-packs-2/ You can get my Music Mega Pack here: https://soundimage.org/ogg-game-music-mega-pack/ You can hire me to create some custom music for your project: https://soundimage.org/custom-work/ Thanks in advance for your support...please stay safe and keep being creative! 🙂

And remembering that this camera (and predecessors) only have 8-bit color. The problem with Olymṕus is their codecs - they have high bitrates but are much softer than other companies, since the E-M5 MK II days. If you like the look (I had a concert video form the E-M5 MK II that you clearly see that is far from perfect, but it looked fantastic), could be a compelling option, but it probably falls apart very quickly with grading. The thing that amazes me (and the only explanation is that it have a VERY good patent) is that no other company implemented Live Bulb - it makes long exposures a breeze, you see the image "developing" on screen, you just pause when I think it is good. It the feature that I miss the most from my Olympus days (and the IBIS perfectly tuned for video).

That cheap and tacky finish might work in your favour, if your into a less obtrusive style of street photography or videography. It wouldn't be my first choice but I think i'd take it, over a fire engine red one, any day of the week. However i happy enough with the em-1iii so its all kinda irrelevant to me.

That or the G9 II - it seems to be not much bigger (a little taller and the hand grip + EVF protrude just a little more) and it barely costs more used. This one seems to be another example of OM system taking an existing camera, upgrading the processor, and adding computational photography features. The CP features are pretty neat, but it'd be so much better to see OM systems invest in something more interesting/revolutionary. Also, at least in pictures, the limited edition "sand" finish looks cheap and tacky.

Sadly the new OM5ii isn't offering any real video upgrades. The E-M5iii remains the smallest M43 camera with PDAF at a decent used price until Panasonic pulls their head out of their rear-end.

Think about selling it and see how you feel. If you don't have a negative reaction to the thought, and it's not a practical choice, then sell it. If you do have a negative reaction to the thought of selling it, then think about how much you might get for it and what you could do with that money. Then think about swapping the camera for those other things and see which gives more excitement. Ultimately, if you're not shooting for money, then you're doing it for enjoyment, so ignore the specs and go with what would bring you the most happiness. Thanks! Not sure if I said this above, but my approach for the GX85 shots was to just apply enough of the film simulation in the FLC to get rid of the "video" look in the files, which I think was only about a third. The GX85 has a strong look to begin with, so I didn't need to add much to the colours. After many years working out colour grading tools and techniques across lots of cameras I've worked out how to get images to not look so digital, but now I can do whatever I want with them, I have to now work out what I want! It's a work in progress as everything is. Prores V-Log on the GH7 is an absolute joy. I have been doing some low-light testing over the last week or so in anticipation of my next balloon adventure, and I compared using a 17mm lens with using my new 9mm lens to get a 17mm FOV (firstly by shooting C4K Prores 422 and cropping to 17mm FOV in post, and also by shooting 1080p Prores HQ and cropping to 17mm in-camera) and even then, at ISOs of 5000 or more, the results were still not like the normal results from cheap cameras. In the grade it feels like footage from any cinema camera I've tried - the controls all feel great and the image responds how you want it to without colour shifts etc. Hell, I'm in groups where there are guys dealing with FPN from their RED cameras at base ISO that is worse than this camera has at ISO3200. Absolutely! There is something magical about this combo. I don't know what, but it's a joy to use and the files just seem to have something special to them. Dual GX85 bodies is a great way to go actually, and saves time in changing lenses all the time. Great stuff!!

I did a bunch of testing some time ago comparing them, and they were less different than I thought they would be, and the CineD and Natural seemed to have the same latitude. I'm not sure if somewhere along the line I got confused between Natural and Standard though, so that might be something to test. Years on, the conclusion I've come to about colour profiles is that if you're going to colour grade in post with any kind of sophistication (and now with the Film Look Creator tool and Resolve colour management we have incredibly sophisticated tools) then it probably doesn't matter which profile you use. If I was limited to basic tools then I might just use CineD and be done with it. It's just preference really. The vND I'm using is the "K&F Concept 58mm True Color Variable ND2-32 (1-5 Stops) ND Lens Filter". They offer one with a larger range, but it isn't the True Colour one so I suspect it has more colour shifts. I've been really happy with it and my tests didn't show any colour shifts. I asked some professional cinematographers for advice and they said this was the cheapest one they'd recommend, so I suspect this is entry level. The NiSi ones were also recommended, but they're significantly more expensive. As always, do your own research, but if you're curious I might have my tests somewhere.

From what you've said I would strongly suggest you to use Manual mode and to customise the dials individually (like @ac6000cw posted above) to configure one dial to be ISO ("Sensitivity" in the manual) and Aperture on the other. This would give you immediate control over the ISO (which you should only raise once the lens is wide open and there isn't enough exposure) and Aperture. This gives the advantage of the exposure of the shot not changing automatically during the shot. This is almost always something you want to avoid. Like I explained earlier - you don't want the exposure going up and down when bright objects come in and out of frame in the background. In situations where you do want the exposure to be adjusted during the shot, for example if you're moving from a light location to a dark one, or if lights get turned on/off, you can adjust these things with the dials. This will result in the exposure suddenly changing during the shot, rather than it gradually transitioning (as auto-ISO will do) but this is actually an advantage in post instead of a disadvantage. This is because if you need to adjust exposure during a shot then in post you can just chop the clip up into a few pieces (on the exact frames that the exposure changed when you changed the dials) and can automate the it from there. The challenge you have when using auto-ISO is that every shot where the exposure is drifting up and down will need to be adjusted with curves to compensate for what the camera did, and this can take literally hours. I shot a rodeo once using auto-ISO and a guy fell and the bull went over him, nearly treading on him, and so my framing went: him on top of the bull, pan down to him on the ground under the bull, him on the ground after the bull has run off. The exposure was all over the place as the elements in the frame changed and the camera "helped" me with exposure. The exposure automations I had to use to create an exposure that looked like nothing happened were complicated and took me literally hours. Had I shot it using one exposure then I could have just used a single exposure automation to bring up the exposure would have only taken minutes, and even if I'd have adjusted aperture or ISO during the shot it would only have added a few minutes in post to chop it up and adjust each segment individually. As you saw from my stress tests above, there is a lot of latitude in the files, so I cannot imagine that many situations where you'd want to change exposure during the shot. I used to be a full-auto shooter, and shot like that for years, listening to people online about how doing things manually was better. Now we have better tools in post, I have now fully switched to manual shooting as I've been through the pain of adjusting things in post to compensate for the camera wandering around. Just looked. I have -5 Contrast, -5 Sharpness and -5 NR, and 0 Saturation. There is a whole topic about why I have set these the way I have, but that's what I recommend. 5600K makes things look like what they actually look like. I shot for years using auto-WB and just couldn't make things look natural in post, they always looked like something was off in some way. This solves that issue. I found that when shooting in available light, even doing a custom WB on a grey-card gives a worse result than just using 5600K. I'd encourage you to set it to 5600K and carry the camera around with you in a pocket for a day with the smallest lens you can find and just take a 1s clip of every location you can find. Then pull them all into your NLE and see how they look. You might be surprised at how well it works across all the different situations. If you can, take it to some night markets where vendors are selling food from vans and people are selling low-value items. You will find the most incredible variety of ultra-low-quality lighting imaginable, as every vendor will buy the cheapest LED lights they could find at the time. Trying to "correct" for these lights will be futile, but the footage should still be a representation of the environment you shot in, even if it won't look like a beauty commercial. A note on testing... I shoot in similar situations to those you have mentioned, and I have come to the conclusions I have come to via lots of experience and an incredible amount of testing. Testing is so important to getting good results because so often you are convinced of something and then do a test to verify your opinions and find that the results are radically different than what you were expecting. So many people online are full of opinions that are so easily proven to be false with only a few minutes of real-life testing. I'm not sure if you've come across any cinematographers doing latitude testing of a cinema camera, but it's very telling that cinematographers (whenever possible) will do camera and lens and lighting tests prior to shooting a TV series or movie, and it seems like no-one doing videography or photography does these or talks about them. Hell, I was looking at a lens the other day and couldn't even find anyone who published test images at different apertures to see how the lens performed wide open vs stopped down. I found lots of photography bloggers who published lots of images and had lots to say, but testing? Nah.... Professionals test, amateurs guess.

How much is the X100V and X100VI over there? This new model is clearly geared towards a different market in large part bc it does not have the killer hybrid OVF/EVF of the more luxurious X100 line. I have my reservations if there really is a market for a X100 sans the hybrid viewfinder. For me, it's the #1 reason I still use my now ancient OG X100.

Not much wrong with the specs. One of the only 40 megapixel APS-C bodies. Same flagship sensor as X-H2, but much smaller, sexier body. IBIS and all the features of an X100 VI but with the benefit of X-mount. 6K 10bit LOG and 4K/60p. I think for £1299 it's a bit of a bargain. Especially in a world which is used to $2k micro four thirds cameras. Whether the average person will choose it over a £1799 EOS R6 Mark II is another matter though. As for the USD prices on new gear, these are irrelevant now and I'm going to start using the £ price as a basis for determining the true pricing of stuff.

Yeah they cheaped out on the lcd a shame but for me the EVF with 3.6Mdot makes up for it. Guess it’s a make or break design choice. I also see the display info finally rotates in video when you shoot vertical. Small but crucial detail as clients ask for vertical more and more. Would have preferred open gate but hey with Sony you have to take what increment they give you. I’m locked into Sony for pro video work so within that ecosystem FX2 fits my needs, not so much the bill though. Tough deciding between it and FX3 since I do shoot low light and run & gun, but then again the 800-4000 double ISO range may be more flexible overall. I also see the rolling shutter drops to 12.8ms in 4k60p & S35 mode so I guess for quick pans and action shots you could use those modes with appropriate lenses for more usable shots. Assign a custom button to s35 crop and boom that nasty rolling shutter dissipates when needed. I’m all about practical workarounds so that could work!

Hehe, I got lucky paying 250 for mine with the 12-32 and a Lumix bag. These bags are highly fashionable in certain groups of clumsy professor photographers.:) The combo usually goes for 350 with the lens. I got my first one eight years ago and paid around 430 for the body. It's still going strong, even without the backwheel which quit on me a few years ago. My favorite lens with it for photo is the 14mm pancake. I also liked using my Oly 45. But it's silver and kinda shiny for street. Planning on getting the Panny 42.5 F1.7. I also got a G3, a cute and small but solid plastic fantastic Dslm style camera. It's the dslrish sister to the GX1. The latter also going for higher prices than a few years ago. GX85 is the best of them all imo for a variety of reasons. 4K video is still great for being 8bit and Rec709. But you know that of course. @John Matthews I just had to get my second one for that nice price and I am looking forward to do a photo tour with two cameras and lenses.

Out of curiosity, how much is that combo going for where you live? I'm always looking for it, but it often seems a bit pricy for me. In France, it can be found for about 350 euros.

FX30 = 2.36 FX2 = 1.04 I think it’s one of the coolest looking cameras ever, the FX line and that tilt EVF ‘looks’ great and for folks that like and use that kind of thing, it probably is, but I don’t have the time and have been an LCD shooter for years now. It’s just a speed thing for me constantly hopping between stills on one body and video on another and the less differences the better. I don’t think the camera is as good as my Panny’s for video and I already have a better Sony stills unit…but I really had hoped it would be good as a true hybrid for my needs, but that LCD just killed it for me 😏

How bad is it? I may be in a minority but I love the fact it has that oversized tilt able EVF, gives a third point of contact and I hate shooting stills with just an lcd. Also very practical in certain daylight scenarios. I can live with the rear LCD just displaying the big 6 data. I wonder how the lowlight is. Like how clean is the image above the 4000 second base ISO.

I bought myself a second GX85. It will hopefully arrive this week. Comes with the 12-32, which I already own and enjoyed using for some test clips with the og pocket. I think I should let go my GM5, as it was more an object of desire than being a practical artists tool for me. What do you guys think? Prices are pretty nice and high for these at the moment. Mine is orange and in a very good shape. Much usage would rub the faux leather off I think. I love the subtle color grade @kye Great results with your GX85 cinema beast.:) Btw I really love the colors of the GX' raw files when taking photos . This camera is perfect for street and to carry along. Anyway, how is Prores on the GH7?:) Any nasty artefacts? Awesome to hear and read about your findings with this exciting camera, Kye!

Hey Everyone, I've created new seamless metal textures to share with the community. You can find them here: https://soundimage.org/txr-metal-seamless/ They're 100% free to use, as always, like my thousands of other images, music tracks and sounds. My images homepage is here: https://soundimage.org/images-home-page/ If you can, please consider helping to support soundimage. My website is 100% ad-free and I pay for everything myself (including my keyboard synthesizers which are very expensive.) Your contributions make what I do possible. You can make a small donation here: https://soundimage.org/donate/ You can get a genre music pack here: https://soundimage.org/ogg-music-packs-2/ You can get my Music Mega Pack here: https://soundimage.org/ogg-game-music-mega-pack/ You can hire me to create some custom music for your project: https://soundimage.org/custom-work/ Thanks in advance for your continued support...please stay safe and keep being creative! 🙂

i think my teacher would call this an oxymoron, although its been a lot longer than than i'd care to think about... certainly long enough that the definition has probably changed since then. I should google it... ok seems like i'm still right... I'm also thinking this would be a perfect skit for kasy over at camera conspiracies. lots to work with. btw i could only be offended, if what you said is true and since it is not... wooOSAah... Now let us return to our normal programming content.

But then we would not benefit from his/her/their annual single (on average) contribution. I feel enlightened already.

I think you misunderstand a few isolated incidents for riots. Anyone that lives in Los Angeles will tell you things are fine, yet someone from London posts on the internet about how crazy things are there and that people are rioting. Who is right, the people there on the ground or the people who wish to use a few isolated incidents to try and taint a legitimate protest and the people who buy the narrative without any critical thinking?

2012, you say. OK. I agree with the first part, but for the second, some days, I think that might be true, but today, I think that I am. I wish my phone could take my place at work. As it is, I earn all the money around here. Damn phone better start pulling its weight. Sounds like your friend has some real talent. Maybe they could join and you could leave.

Citing a few isolated incidents does not provide evidence of city-wide riots. Beyond that, get your head out of your idiot ass and stop getting your news from bullshit alt-right news sources.

It took 13 years to come to these conclusions? Anyway, did you buy your camera back in 2012 and make your film, or are you still thinking about it? Progress updated appreciated.

nice start to making new friends!!!

Totally agree! Bcuz one of the R5Cs main strengths is how feature/option-rich it is. But that also means you constantly need to be making sure you have the right featues turned on/off, etc. For example, I use the S35 crop mode and/or the digital teleconverter for added reach - but if you don't manually set the cam back to full frame or take it out of TC mode, the cam won't go back to the default mode when you turn it off 🤷🏾‍♂️