Jump to content

Panasonic GM1 review - another pocket cinema camera


Andrew Reid
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Administrators

Just to be clear, GM1 is separate class of camera to something like the G6. The G6 is designed as a DSLR replacement. The GM1 is a compact replacement.

 

The size is the main advantage. It makes all sorts of rigging possible or easier and cheaper. Great for multicopters and ariel shoots.

 

The GM1 has an electronic shutter at full resolution for stills. Important for street photography or gigs where you don't want a constant KERBANG going off in someone's face, especially during a burst mode shot.

 

In terms of image quality the GM1 is less noisy and has less aliasing than the G6.

 

And G6 was already one of the best cameras for the price, around $650.

 

This is $750 with lens. Very reasonable.

 

But the G6 has advantage of EVF and articulated screen plus 1080/60p.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

a simple question.

things are getting smaller.

is it still cleaver to invest in full frame, bulky, lenses?

is the full frame the future?, or we're headed to the miniaturization and it is better to invest in the new generation of lenses?

 

 

thanks to anyone in advanced

 

Oren

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators

Currently full frame stuff is a good investment as it covers all the sensors on the market.

 

Lenses tend to hold their value very well.

 

At the moment small cameras like the GM1 are more of a niche but yeah, the general trend is towards smaller cameras, even with full frame as we have seen with the A7R.

 

To directly answer your question I'd say at the moment and for a good few years yet, full frame lenses are a good investment and they don't have to be bulky. Look at the Speed Booster with Contax Zeiss 50mm F1.4 on the GM1, it isn't too big, about same size as Voigtlander 25mm F0.95.

 

The Speed Booster is shorter than a standard Contax Yashica adapter (same goes for the other mounts of SB).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For video I would agree that FF lenses are a good investment.

 

As we move away from DSLRs to mirrorless cameras the existing DSLR lenses will struggle in low light for snapshots requiring AF.  The on-sensor PDAF will always be limited to brighter seens and as CDAF takes over in low light you will find the DSLR lenses are very slow as they were never designed for fast AF with CDAF.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The C100/C300 shoot 8-bit and create lovely images. I wouldn't use that as a baseline to how good or bad a setup is!

My Gh2 also, but in the same situations...Bits are Bits, and compresion are compresion. I think...(i´m not an expert :rolleyes: )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

does it only have auto ISO in manual mode ?

as I find that can lead to shots going dark and bright when you pan to lighter or darker areas.the camera tries to compensate

My GF3s do this and when I use them on cars I have to avoid bridges and tunnels !! and its useless at night as it automatically ramps upto

really noisy hi ISOs even with fast lenses....

 

just interested to see if this Gm1 does that too

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Andrew, as you said, it's a perfect cam for aerial filming. But does it have live HDMI out while recording? Doesn't have to be hdmi, composite is also okay, but needs to be active while recording. otherwise it's almost useless for aerial work. I was a bit disappointed that the gx7 and the g6 doesn't have live video out while recording. So i'm using the GH3 now. But something lighter with same or better quality is always good :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It depends how far you want to grade the footage.

 

I'm hooked on RAW and the BMPCC because I can get more natural skin tons and more detail in the shadows--right out of the camera.  So in my experience, though I see how the GM! is a "pocket cinema camera", because of the features you pointed out, I wouldn't compare it to the BMPCC in terms of dynamic range and color depth.  

 

So can you clarify, Andrew?  I can't find any setting on H.264 camera, where I can get the skin tone and shadows to my liking (with minimal grading).  Something always has to give.  I can believe I just don't know enough and if Andy were shooting side by side with me he could get the look i want.

 

If I could get the same look out of the GM1 that I get from the BMPCC then I'd switch cameras.  Can you elaborate more on the differences?  Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators

If I could get the same look out of the GM1 that I get from the BMPCC then I'd switch cameras.  Can you elaborate more on the differences?  Thanks!

 

Well in the shadows on all compressed codecs lurks macro blocking, and with raw the noise grain is finer in the shadows and they look more filmic.

 

But most of the time with a normal amount of contrast in an image your shadows will crush at some point so you don't notice the crap lurking in them.

 

I find with the BMPCC that as long as you have fast glass, you can really bring out subtle differences in shade over areas of the night sky for instance, whereas on the GM1 that would be banding of a few tones, or completely crushed black to a duller shade. Disclaimer is... not necessarily... it depends how you expose and what the available light is.

 

With skin tones, again with a normal amount of light and contrast, and without pulling the tones around too much in post, the GM1 can do a great job.

 

The difference is when you have skin tones which are backlit, or not optimally lit or in the shade, and you still need them to look great, with raw you have that extra colour information and a more gentle gradation to play with in post.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Skin tones depend on how you light them - Ive spent 15 years shooting girls in pop videos and its all about the lighting getting good skin tonesand the diffusion too ,

I do use alot of 85 (orange) with Lee diffusion on my lights this makes the skin warm , then dial in your colour balance manually until you hit a colour temperature with a colour you like - its very simple really !

I dont just shoot on AWB ever!! or preset daylight ot tungsten , dial it in on each shot and you will get nice skin tones!!

thats why its called colour temperature and on skin tones its very important

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...