zlfan

f900 with a hj 22x. your shoulder and back will enjoy the combo. lol. 

The Panasonic HC-VX980 shoots decent 4k in the right hands too:
 

there is a cost effect ratio here too. other than magic lantern cameras, uncompressed raw cameras are extremely expensive, like the Alexa family. on the other hand, a 60p camera with a low end codec can be very cheap. doing action packed shots, the latter one will be more suitable. try a 24p thin codec camera, you can hardly see clearly anything once the camera is panning, tilting, or doing other complexing movements. 

according to my experience, this is true. 

one of my go pro 12 videos with a lot of moving shots got multiple up votes and highest viewing rate on my channel. good stabilization with 60 p beats 24p no stabilization day by day. 

As I'm sure you know and you just misspoke, you need an external drive for 12bit 4K, not an external recorder. You can shoot internal 12bit 1080p, but ML Raw has an undeniably better IQ, in all respects, than the FP's FHD.
I agree about the IBIS, but I don't really see a point for ML Raw with the R5? You can already shoot internal raw. But all of the Canon IBIS cameras are Digic X, so it will be a long time before they break that code.
It will be interesting to see what they can do with the EOS-R and hopefully the M50. I'd actually be really happy if they were able to enable continuous MLV raw on the 5D4.
But I'm still really impressed with what the 5D3 with ML Raw and a Canon IS lens is capable of handheld. So maybe I'm just easily impressed. 

8 bit 420 can be just fine as long as you don’t want to do anything to it later grade wise.  
 
As long as you’re happy with what comes out of the camera then you won’t SEE much of a difference.  
 
you will definitely SEE the difference between 8bit and 10bit if you try to match two cameras that look different of if the WB is off or has some lighting hue you don’t like.  
 
Basically anytime you want to grade or manipulate the image it is very brittle and won’t handle much correction. 10 bit will. 

10-bit is always better than 8-bit, and 4:2:2 is always better than 4:2:0, but the question is if that difference is actually visible / meaningful.  If you're doing very little grading in post then 8-bit vs 10-bit and 4:2:0 vs 4:2:2 probably doesn't have any visible or meaningful difference.
But I suggest doing a test.  Just find a bunch of scenes around the house (or not out of the way) and shoot the same composition in each mode and then just load them up side-by-side and look at them.  If the 8-bit 4:2:0 shot doesn't make your stomach turn then just go with it.
In the end, if you can lessen the impact or eliminate overheating, that you can lessen or eliminate the impact of running out of SD card space, then that means you can relax more while recording, you could shoot more, you can have extra time and energy and headspace that was previously devoted to worrying about or managing these things.  If you can have more headspace and be more relaxed while shooting then the way you use the camera, and the way that you behave while recording will be better.  If you behave better then what is in front of the camera might also be better.
So, realistically, the option is potentially of having a very slightly worse recording of potentially much better material.

60p afficiando can be a medical doctor, these two are not exclusive. lol. 

because i may be from cairo too. lol. 

you mean that guy who cheated some one here on board? i don't want to sell you my selected cameras. i want to hold them until in my cold hands. lol. 

60p afficiando can be a medical doctor, these two are not exclusive. lol. 

because i may be from cairo too. lol. 

i like to be anonymous. otherwise, people may lurck into my home, destroying all gears, because i dare to challenge the 24p sacristy. lol. just a joke. 

i like to be anonymous. otherwise, people may lurck into my home, destroying all gears, because i dare to challenge the 24p sacristy. lol. just a joke. 

i like to be anonymous. otherwise, people may lurck into my home, destroying all gears, because i dare to challenge the 24p sacristy. lol. just a joke. 

Something like an F3 looks better than most of the latest mirrorless cameras regardless of how you use them.... unless you've got half-a-decade of colour grading experience, and even then....

I've owned both cameras (GX80 and E-M5 iii) for 2 years each. If you compare the image and audio only, I feel the GX80 has a slightly better image more often than the E-M5iii, but the audio is no comparison. The GX80 has usable audio until you film the same thing with the E-M5iii as you cannot hear the ibis working in it. On the GX80, you hear the ibis and focus motors if you have them going. Still, both have better audio than the GX850. Also, the continuous AF performance is night and day with the GX80 with the E-M5iii outperforming it in every aspect. The EVFs are also light years apart- way better on the E-M5iii. The GX80 does feel chunkier though, but no weather sealing.

The cheapest choice with the biggest feature set is going to be a used Olympus E-M5 iii or E-M1 ii in my opinion. Both of those offer fantastic value unrivaled for their size (especially the E-M5 iii. The gotchas on both of them on the used market is the questionable usage of glues on their outer shell. The E-M1 ii often has the rubber coming. The thumb rest on the E-M5 iii often comes off and you need to be careful with not putting too heavy of a lens on it as it has a fragile tripod mount.

Portability likely trumped out and won in the end. A Convergent Design Odyssey 7Q isn't exactly an easy hassle free approach vs a lightweight little Hyperdeck (or perhaps if he was doing it today, an Atomos Ninja Star???? Maybe)

Ah, sorry..  I missed the mention of it being on a gimbal, where obviously you lose the ability to touch the camera or lens.
Makes sense now, and yeah, having a wireless control of some kind where you don't need to buy new hardware would be optimal.
I have a vague recollection of someone on YT saying that the BM camera app is actually a camera control app where the first camera it controls is the internal iPhone camera, but that the roadmap will be that it adds control for BM cameras.  That would effectively give every BM camera a smartphone-sized touchscreen interface.  I think that was just speculation, but if true would definitely be a very nice user experience.
and SSD.
The AF on the P2K is better than nothing but only marginally, but it seems like the M4K has a much newer sensor so I'll be keen to see how much the AF is improved.  
If the AF is improved and the images are compelling, this will be the closest I'll have come to buying a new camera in quite some time.

seems to me that u43 will revive due to this bmcc4k g2 and g9 ii. 

12g sdi in and out, hdmi out, usb-c. these are great to rig up the camera using 15mm rail system. 
hope the bottom has an additional locking pin socket in addition to the apparent 1/4 or 3/8 socket. i experience a lot that the rails rotate due to only one socket at the bottom of the camera (mostly dslr or mirrorless, not the camcorder type body)
i think this one can pair with a ninja v or v+ or a bmva 12g 5 inch, a t5/7/9 ssd, some smallrig cage specifically designed for this. at $2000, this can be very useful and low profile, good for traveling or street shooting. 
also importantly, u43 sensor means a lot of 43 or u43 lenses can have latest 4k raw recording capability. 
this one bmcc4k g2 vs g9 ii, or paired with g9 ii, can be a powerful setup for being small and nimble, yet modern and high res. 

this is very promising. small size, 4k raw, just need an external monitor/recorder. 

the short doc is amazing, and it is done by f35.
but if it is against the forum rule, just delete it. i accidentally stumped on this article and really like it. but i did not know there is such a rule. sorry.