FHDcrew

Why don’t you go out and film with your Sony F3 😉

I may just do this. With the fringer EF-NZ this strategy can definitely work for me on my Nikon Z6. Best route is to adapt EF and get sigma glass, that way you can get working AF on a Sony body if you ever go that route

Awesome. Also super happy about the good performance with the Sigma MC11; it gives an affordable option to those who want the S5 II.

I like it! Love the opening sequence, well done on the lighting. Good, balanced review. Keep it up!

If you use the Ninja V you have great assist tools, waveforms false color zebras and LUT support. If you use a Ninja Star you rely in the Z6 built-in screen. Has Zebras and focus peaking, but you can only have one or the other enabled. Zebras are in 8 bit code values instead of IRE; I just set it to the highest number and ETTR, but need to run more tests to see how accurate they are. And when using HDMI sometimes they just don't appear, so you need to hit the q menu button and then exit, and then the zebras appear as normal. No internal LUT support for monitoring but it does have an NLOG view assist. Which is nice but doesn't account for overexposing by 1-2 stops, which is where NLOG shines. I don't honestly think these are huge issues for run and gun stuff, as when I need more critical assist tools for controlled environments I just switch to the Ninja V.

Let me know if you have any questions, saying as I have that exact same setup!

you sir are spot on!

Right. But budget in a ninja v or ninja star if you get the Z6.

Could buy cinematch, convert to SLOG3 and export the result as a LUT from Resolve?

That is awesome. I mean who doesn’t want internal RAW, pro tools like waveform, SDI, internal ND? In all seriousness though I’m pretty much sticking with my Nikon Z6 as the external 10 bit image is all I need and my money is better spent on lenses and lighting gear to give me more opportunities to advance my skill. But someday, maybe someday…

I keep getting tempted to get a Canon C200 for that Canon RAW, DPAF and Internal ND

Thanks for the reality check that was honestly good to hear 😂

Why are we responding to a 5 1/2 yr old post out of the blue?

Good to know the XT4 IBIS is trash so we can all save money, the XT3 goes for peanuts these days. Have considered switching to gain the internal 10 bit but using the Ninja Star works well enough for me and I’d rather keep full frame because occasionally I need the good high ISO performance.

More footage, shot in oversampled 1080p and cropped to 4:3 for Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/reel/CmNDcaLjxJ3/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Here is some footage I shot on the Z6 using NLOG, graded in Resolve. I used the Ninja V, can’t remember if I shot in 4k or the downsampled 1080p. https://www.instagram.com/reel/CkCLQ6UpHKr/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

I just noticed you mentioned AF is not important. In that case don’t consider the z6, go with the S5. Again, externally the Z6 can keep up with the S5 image but autofocus is the only advantage the Z6 has, as well as more affordable lens opportunities if one wants to maintain that autofocus. On the S5 you need first-party Panasonic lenses for the best performance. On the Z6 you also have affordable used F-mount glass via the FTZ adapter. You also have third party Z mount primes from Viltrox that are affordable and have reliable video AF.

I can chime in with the Z6 as one who has been using it for video since 2020. With an external recorder and shooting NLOG the quality is quite excellent. I believe it will hold up against the s5. S5 probably looks slightly more filmic and has more DR but honestly the z6 is plenty, still has excellent DR and good highlight rolloff. Grading in Davinci Resolve is great, but use the Davinci Resolve CST instead of the NLOG 3D LUT. The setup is heavy, bulky, and not great ergonomically with the Z6 and Atomos Ninja V. But the Ninja V brings great assist tools, and the 4k 10 bit PRORES looks fantastic. Weigh your options carefully, as I don’t love the internal footage so to make the most you will need to rig up an external recorder each time you want 10 bit and LOG. Rigging up can be a major pain as it means extra steps whenever you want a really good image out of the camera. It also means more batteries to worry about If you can get your hands on a cheap Atomos Ninja Star, this provides a way to keep the setup smaller while maintaining 10 bit. You are limited to 1080p 24p or 30p, but the Z6 can output a downsampled 1080p signal using oversampling, so detail is quite good. I find the footage holds up well especially if you are delivering online, and I prefer the downsampled image any day of the week compared to the internal 8 bit 4k recording. The only real benefits over the S5 are phase detection autofocus that is quite usuable in video mode, as well as mini HDMI instead of micro HDMI. The main benefits over the XT4 are again a slightly larger HDMI port and the various advantages full frame bring to the table, such as better lowlight. Dynamic range in NLOG is probably slightly more than the XT4 in FLOG. But I honestly think outside of high ISO performance the XT4 internal 10 bit 4k will hold its own against the Nikon Z6’s external 4k. And you can get fast lenses to get similar DOF on the XT4. The Z6 is underrated for video, as used when paired with either the Ninja Star or Ninja V makes it the cheapest full frame 10 bit camera with phase detect AF. That being said you really need to decide if you are fine using external recorders for your video, or if you value a great image internally. I would seriously consider the XT4 due to that benefit. And if you can accept reduced autofocus performance or just shoot manual, get the S5 and call it a day.

I really enjoy my 47" parabolic softbox, but I've not used the honeycomb grid for most projects. While I love that it reduces light spill greatly, it also creates undesirable hot spots that seem to ruin the ultra-soft quality of light. Is this normal, and is there a way to prevent the hot spots while using the grid? This is a shot of me on a Nikon Z6 shooting NLOG to the Ninja V, with a Tamron 45mm 1.8. Here is a shot with the grid: Here is a similar shot but without the grid:

Why not do a FHD challenge? Allowing more cameras than just the F3, but see who can make the best piece in under 2 minutes?

I JUST GOT YOUR JOKE HAHA

I’d love to but I can’t. I’d need to join in with My Nikon Z6 and oversampled 1080P PRORES footage via the ninja star.

Even if they don’t you should still use it 😛 😂 👍

You should use your F3!

Yeah. From what I’ve heard RSMB is quite slow! You could edit your whole video, then just let it cache overnight once the project is finished. Would make internal ND filters irrelevant