drm

No. The P4K does not lose all of the footage if the power goes off when recording ProRes or BMRaw. I don't know what happens if the power goes off with CDNG as I didn't test that and I have now upgraded all three of my cameras to the latest firmware.
I have had a battery die several times and I have never lost a file. I usually record to an external SSD (Samsung 1TB T5) but I have also recorded to SD cards. You may lose a few seconds at the end of the footage, but you should not lose the entire file. I remember seeing a YouTube video where the person lost their file when pulling the battery, but even the comments on that video had people saying it didn't happen to them.
I just recorded a 15 second clip with BRAW. I pulled the battery while the camera was recording. The clip is still there and it plays properly. At most, you should lose a tiny bit from the end of the file if you lose power.
I also recorded a 15 second clip with ProRes. I pulled the battery while the camera was recording. The ProRes clip is still there and plays properly BUT it seems to be about 5 seconds shorter. I think that ProRes writes the file to disk every 5 seconds, so you may lose a few seconds of the end of a ProRes clip if you lose power.

Hell. I already have three P4Ks. At a price below $1000, I might buy another one (or three...)  
There are (obviously) some limitations with the P4Ks, but they produce fine images, especially considering the price. I mean, we can shoot (semi) RAW footage on affordable cameras on affordable media. We truly live in special times...

Hell. I already have three P4Ks. At a price below $1000, I might buy another one (or three...)  
There are (obviously) some limitations with the P4Ks, but they produce fine images, especially considering the price. I mean, we can shoot (semi) RAW footage on affordable cameras on affordable media. We truly live in special times...

Hell. I already have three P4Ks. At a price below $1000, I might buy another one (or three...)  
There are (obviously) some limitations with the P4Ks, but they produce fine images, especially considering the price. I mean, we can shoot (semi) RAW footage on affordable cameras on affordable media. We truly live in special times...

Aren't we simultaneously having two conversations?
The P4K is way too sharp!!!  4K and modern cameras aren't cinematic, the Alexa / older BM cameras are all lower res and have magic. The P4K is way too soft!!!!  BRAW is clearly inferior because it smooths fine detail. Not to mention conversations in other threads that also include:
Who needs 4K - 1080 is fine and you can't tell the difference and ...... blah blah blah 8K!!!!!! OMFG!!!!!  ??

Ignoring the made up numbers here, in terms of debayer quality the method for cDNG is much older as not anywhere near as good as Blackmagic RAW. I see a lot of people mistake the artefacts of the DNG debayer as sharpness. Its not that the cDNG debayer is necessarily keeping more details, but it IS creating false detail. An interesting comparison was just posted here that's worth looking at :
https://forum.blackmagicdesign.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&p=510320#p510320
Especially this image - what you're seeing on the DNG is not real information the DNG retained, it's CREATING it (falsely) and it can look like sharpness/detail when it's over areas of real detail, but it's a very "hard" and digital feeling look IMHO :

But also pay really close attention to the resolution image at the above link. You can see on the right hand side the artefacts between the red and yellow resolution lines and around the edges of the circle. These artefacts are not real detail or sharpness that you lose with Blackmagic RAW, they are created in error.

Something to consider as well is we get a lot of feedback from customers that 4.6K Blackmagic RAW still has more resolution than some "other" cameras 8K RAW images - likely because of strong optical low pass filtering that without could produce similar artefacts as shown in DNG.
 
The highlights and shadows sliders in cDNG are NOT debayering RAW controls and work on debayered data only. They are the exact same (mathematically) as the ones in the primaries tab and work exactly the same on Blackmagic RAW as the DNG RAW tab ones. I demonstrated this for someone on Facebook last year..

https://forum.blackmagicdesign.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=90870

Most of the portable monitors are not able to supply enough power for the P4K. The big NP batteries extend the battery life to around 2 hours (with external SSD + phantom power). I use a v-mount battery (150Wh), which powers the camera mostly all day. As long as you aren't trying to create a very small rig for a run & gun type environment, battery life can be made into a non-issue.

I have three of the P4K rigs and use them daily. I strongly encourage you to get the 1TB T5 drives instead of the 2TB drives. When shooting BRAW, the 1TB drive holds a LOT of footage (like almost 500 mins at Q5). Having two 1TB drives gives you a backup, gives more flexibility when shooting (like can still shoot while dumping a drive to backup storage), etc. Just my thoughts.

Good luck!

This is what a OG BMPCC Can, and does look like. Now granted it is wasn't done by just Bob down the street. But you can see what it is capable of. And it isn't all crushed Blacks and noise. Bottom picture was their rig. Mercer sent me the link to the film.
From their Facebook page.
"Our main camera throughout the shoot has been a BMPCC, with a range of C-Mount and M43 lenses (and one enormous M42 - the Pentacon 300).
That camera has been powered by an Anker Pro 2 (with a modified cable, to fit the tiny input on the BMPCC). The Anker is mounted to the rig via a 90 degree metal plate from B&Q, some 15mm plumbers clamps, and some velcro tape.
We've had a bog-standard manfrotto tripod throughout, a cheap rails/plate set from India (Cine City on Ebay I think..?) and a cheap camtree cage.
On the front we've got a Fotga mattebox (with barn doors and a swing-out front - invaluable), a set of Tiffen NDs (kindly donated), and a Hoya 82mm Polariser screwed in to a filter tray and left in one of the slots for the duration of the shoot."
 
 
 

I don't think they're hot swap-able, but you can charge them through the 12v input. So you could have the grip and sled with a bigger NPF battery on and you'll be able to go for like half a day, then hotswap the battery on the sled if need be. Kind of the same as it currently stands with the LPE6, but with MUCH more backup.
From their website:
Designed for the Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4K, the new Pocket Battery Grip lets you replace the camera’s standard LP‑E6 battery with two L‑series batteries so you can shoot for over 2 hours on a single charge! You can even charge the batteries in the grip via the camera’s 12V DC connection in between takes!
--
I think the grip would be great for travel stuff where you don't want extra cables etc. I'll definitely grab one, but in a few months when some 3rd parties have solutions.

P4K Battery life w/NP-F970 batteries:
By the way, I just completed a quick battery test on the P4K, for anyone that is interested.
I set up 3 P4K's with NP-F970 batteries on a battery sled connected to the 12V port on the camera. The batteries were fully charged before starting the test. They all tested about 8.1V at the start.
Each camera had the following equipment and settings:
XLR shotgun microphone with phantom power turned on Audio levels set to 50% Screen brightness at default levels Samsung T5 1TB drives Panasonic native M4/3 lenses NO internal battery in camera I recorded a static scene until the camera turned off. Then noted the duration of the recorded video. Here is what I found:
Battery 1: No name NP-F970 7.4V 48.84Wh => 2:08:51 total runtime
Battery 2: Powerextra NP-F970 7.4V 8800mAh 65.12Wh => 2:24:11 total runtime
Battery 3: Powerextra NP-F970 7.4V 8800mAh 65.12Wh => 2:25:10 total runtime
So, as a worse case scenario, my cams get around 2 hours and 20 minutes with a big NP-F970 battery.
Hopefully this information is helpful to people trying to decide how to power there little beasts
 
=============================================================================
 
  I see that you have "been there" before I agree with you completely. When you are getting paid for a job, you need to get it done, regardless of the obstacles. That is one of the reasons that I have backups for pretty much everything, including camera bodies. I get asked all the time why I bring so much gear to a job. Some of the gear that I bring isn't needed on every job, but at least I have the things to solve a problem when I need them. I am really big on redundancy. On a lot of our jobs, I only get one shot. I can't do a retake on many of our projects.
I actually had the Voigtlander Nokton 25mm f/0.95 Type II Lens in my bag the other day, but elected not to use it, as I didn't *quite* need it.  If I need a f/0.95 lens and ISO 10000+, that is a really peculiar situation. ISO 12800 with an f/1.2 lens is already much brighter on the screen than it looks to your naked eye. At least I didn't have to break out the night vision :D

P4K Battery life w/NP-F970 batteries:
By the way, I just completed a quick battery test on the P4K, for anyone that is interested.
I set up 3 P4K's with NP-F970 batteries on a battery sled connected to the 12V port on the camera. The batteries were fully charged before starting the test. They all tested about 8.1V at the start.
Each camera had the following equipment and settings:
XLR shotgun microphone with phantom power turned on Audio levels set to 50% Screen brightness at default levels Samsung T5 1TB drives Panasonic native M4/3 lenses NO internal battery in camera I recorded a static scene until the camera turned off. Then noted the duration of the recorded video. Here is what I found:
Battery 1: No name NP-F970 7.4V 48.84Wh => 2:08:51 total runtime
Battery 2: Powerextra NP-F970 7.4V 8800mAh 65.12Wh => 2:24:11 total runtime
Battery 3: Powerextra NP-F970 7.4V 8800mAh 65.12Wh => 2:25:10 total runtime
So, as a worse case scenario, my cams get around 2 hours and 20 minutes with a big NP-F970 battery.
Hopefully this information is helpful to people trying to decide how to power there little beasts
 
=============================================================================
 
  I see that you have "been there" before I agree with you completely. When you are getting paid for a job, you need to get it done, regardless of the obstacles. That is one of the reasons that I have backups for pretty much everything, including camera bodies. I get asked all the time why I bring so much gear to a job. Some of the gear that I bring isn't needed on every job, but at least I have the things to solve a problem when I need them. I am really big on redundancy. On a lot of our jobs, I only get one shot. I can't do a retake on many of our projects.
I actually had the Voigtlander Nokton 25mm f/0.95 Type II Lens in my bag the other day, but elected not to use it, as I didn't *quite* need it.  If I need a f/0.95 lens and ISO 10000+, that is a really peculiar situation. ISO 12800 with an f/1.2 lens is already much brighter on the screen than it looks to your naked eye. At least I didn't have to break out the night vision :D

P4K Battery life w/NP-F970 batteries:
By the way, I just completed a quick battery test on the P4K, for anyone that is interested.
I set up 3 P4K's with NP-F970 batteries on a battery sled connected to the 12V port on the camera. The batteries were fully charged before starting the test. They all tested about 8.1V at the start.
Each camera had the following equipment and settings:
XLR shotgun microphone with phantom power turned on Audio levels set to 50% Screen brightness at default levels Samsung T5 1TB drives Panasonic native M4/3 lenses NO internal battery in camera I recorded a static scene until the camera turned off. Then noted the duration of the recorded video. Here is what I found:
Battery 1: No name NP-F970 7.4V 48.84Wh => 2:08:51 total runtime
Battery 2: Powerextra NP-F970 7.4V 8800mAh 65.12Wh => 2:24:11 total runtime
Battery 3: Powerextra NP-F970 7.4V 8800mAh 65.12Wh => 2:25:10 total runtime
So, as a worse case scenario, my cams get around 2 hours and 20 minutes with a big NP-F970 battery.
Hopefully this information is helpful to people trying to decide how to power there little beasts
 
=============================================================================
 
  I see that you have "been there" before I agree with you completely. When you are getting paid for a job, you need to get it done, regardless of the obstacles. That is one of the reasons that I have backups for pretty much everything, including camera bodies. I get asked all the time why I bring so much gear to a job. Some of the gear that I bring isn't needed on every job, but at least I have the things to solve a problem when I need them. I am really big on redundancy. On a lot of our jobs, I only get one shot. I can't do a retake on many of our projects.
I actually had the Voigtlander Nokton 25mm f/0.95 Type II Lens in my bag the other day, but elected not to use it, as I didn't *quite* need it.  If I need a f/0.95 lens and ISO 10000+, that is a really peculiar situation. ISO 12800 with an f/1.2 lens is already much brighter on the screen than it looks to your naked eye. At least I didn't have to break out the night vision :D

P4K Battery life w/NP-F970 batteries:
By the way, I just completed a quick battery test on the P4K, for anyone that is interested.
I set up 3 P4K's with NP-F970 batteries on a battery sled connected to the 12V port on the camera. The batteries were fully charged before starting the test. They all tested about 8.1V at the start.
Each camera had the following equipment and settings:
XLR shotgun microphone with phantom power turned on Audio levels set to 50% Screen brightness at default levels Samsung T5 1TB drives Panasonic native M4/3 lenses NO internal battery in camera I recorded a static scene until the camera turned off. Then noted the duration of the recorded video. Here is what I found:
Battery 1: No name NP-F970 7.4V 48.84Wh => 2:08:51 total runtime
Battery 2: Powerextra NP-F970 7.4V 8800mAh 65.12Wh => 2:24:11 total runtime
Battery 3: Powerextra NP-F970 7.4V 8800mAh 65.12Wh => 2:25:10 total runtime
So, as a worse case scenario, my cams get around 2 hours and 20 minutes with a big NP-F970 battery.
Hopefully this information is helpful to people trying to decide how to power there little beasts
 
=============================================================================
 
  I see that you have "been there" before I agree with you completely. When you are getting paid for a job, you need to get it done, regardless of the obstacles. That is one of the reasons that I have backups for pretty much everything, including camera bodies. I get asked all the time why I bring so much gear to a job. Some of the gear that I bring isn't needed on every job, but at least I have the things to solve a problem when I need them. I am really big on redundancy. On a lot of our jobs, I only get one shot. I can't do a retake on many of our projects.
I actually had the Voigtlander Nokton 25mm f/0.95 Type II Lens in my bag the other day, but elected not to use it, as I didn't *quite* need it.  If I need a f/0.95 lens and ISO 10000+, that is a really peculiar situation. ISO 12800 with an f/1.2 lens is already much brighter on the screen than it looks to your naked eye. At least I didn't have to break out the night vision :D

Yes, I think so. The noise reduction in Davinci Resolve is very good. I have used ISOs 10000 & 12800 a couple of times and have gotten usable footage after processing. I am surprised at how well the footage cleans up.
Every once in a while, you are forced to use crazy high ISOs. For example, yesterday, I had a presenter from a giant Silicon Valley tech company that refused to allow the theater stage lights on during her presentation. She claimed the lights would blind her and she wouldn't be able to see the audience. So, I had someone on a stage, with a projector screen behind her and no light on her, other than splash from a few lights on the audience. I had to run ISO 12,800 with f/1.2 lenses and was still about 1/2 stop underexposed. She was so dark that she was basically a shadow to your naked eye. Of course, she also didn't want to wear a lav. She insisted that she could be heard fine without one. At least I won that battle and got my lav on her during the presentation.
The footage from that event is certainly worse than I would have liked, but at least it is usable. If I had only had access to normal cameras, the footage would have been completely unusable. At some point, I will do some comparisons, but my use tells me that the GH5s is a stop or so better in low light than the P4K, before correcting in Resolve.

I had a 6 camera event shoot yesterday. I used 3 of my GH5s cams and 3 of my P4K cams. Both cams are great, but they are quite different. The GH5s is a good bit better in low light (a stop or two). The GH5(s) cams are a good bit less "fiddly". You can pull them out and just shoot. I can even send the GH5 with a good lens with my wife (a great editor, but not a great camera person) and she can capture usable video footage. I can even set it to mostly auto mode for a novice user and I might get some usable video footage.
With the P4K's I have to worry about power and lots of other little things (like will the audio work right). The menus are very easy to use, but there are lots of things to think about while using it. I would really hesitate giving it to an inexperienced user. With all that said, the footage is lovely.
For my use, I find that I am using the P4K's more and more. I have even toyed with the idea of selling some of my GH5s cams. I am also seriously considering purchasing one of the new Blackmagic Ursa G2 cameras. I wouldn't have even considered that a few months back. The P4Ks are definitely more than you might expect.
Earlier today, I even found myself wishing that the GH5s footage had been BRAW!  Weird, I know...

I had a 6 camera event shoot yesterday. I used 3 of my GH5s cams and 3 of my P4K cams. Both cams are great, but they are quite different. The GH5s is a good bit better in low light (a stop or two). The GH5(s) cams are a good bit less "fiddly". You can pull them out and just shoot. I can even send the GH5 with a good lens with my wife (a great editor, but not a great camera person) and she can capture usable video footage. I can even set it to mostly auto mode for a novice user and I might get some usable video footage.
With the P4K's I have to worry about power and lots of other little things (like will the audio work right). The menus are very easy to use, but there are lots of things to think about while using it. I would really hesitate giving it to an inexperienced user. With all that said, the footage is lovely.
For my use, I find that I am using the P4K's more and more. I have even toyed with the idea of selling some of my GH5s cams. I am also seriously considering purchasing one of the new Blackmagic Ursa G2 cameras. I wouldn't have even considered that a few months back. The P4Ks are definitely more than you might expect.
Earlier today, I even found myself wishing that the GH5s footage had been BRAW!  Weird, I know...

To me, the P4K is usable up to ISO 10,000. It also cleans up really nicely when you use noise reduction in Resolve. I think that the GH5s is a bit better in low light, probably something like 1/3 - 2/3 of a stop. I don't have the Fuji, but I think it is probably about a stop better than the P4K from the footage that I have seen and from my usage of the GH5s & P4K. For great low light, get the Sony cameras (e.g. A7III) their engineers used magic pixie dust in those things   

I love the Olympus 12-100 f/4. It is on one of my cameras almost always. I would like it even more if I could get that kind of range in a f/2.8, but oh well
I was sharing the specs for the 18-35 + Speedbooster in terms equivalent to the Panasonic 12-35 lens, not "full frame" equivalent. A new person might not be familiar with the 35mm equivalent conversion specs. Also, to me, quoting everything in 35mm equivalent specs is just silly when we were only talking about the m4/3 format cameras. It isn't like the video world records most everything in 35mm format (although some of that is changing now). I could see it if everyone converted the different formats to Super 35, but 35mm? That wasn't even really a thing until the Canon 5D Mark II a few years back. Of course, I also think that calling 35mm "full frame" is silly too as there are many cameras (e.g. medium format) that use much larger sensors. So, what are they? "Mega Frame"?
 

@xzobinx I am sure that you know this already but, the 12V port on the camera is designed to take 12V-20V. The battery outputs 8.4V-6V. I am surprised that the camera even turns on with only 8V plugged into the 12V port. I suggest that you get a 12V output battery sled like this one: https://amzn.to/2Fp0I4u  I have 3 and they work fine for me. I also use dtap straight from a v-mount battery to the 12V port and it works great. The camera lasts basically all day with one big v-mount battery.
If you run a cord straight from the battery, I recommend that you use a dummy battery. The camera is designed to use lower voltages from the battery port. If you use a dummy battery, you will also lose the ability to hot swap your battery during a long shoot.
I have 15-20 of those batteries and they work great. I have had only had one of them die over the past 2 or three years of regular use. I have the batteries numbered, but I don't keep track of when I buy them, so I have no idea how long the batteries lasted before dying.
IIRC, I think that Tom Antos mentioned killing some of his monitors that provide power to the camera because of the heavy power draw from the BMPCC4K, so I would hesitate trying to draw power from the monitor.
Unfortunately, I can't recommend a store that will ship those to Australia.
 

@xzobinx I am sure that you know this already but, the 12V port on the camera is designed to take 12V-20V. The battery outputs 8.4V-6V. I am surprised that the camera even turns on with only 8V plugged into the 12V port. I suggest that you get a 12V output battery sled like this one: https://amzn.to/2Fp0I4u  I have 3 and they work fine for me. I also use dtap straight from a v-mount battery to the 12V port and it works great. The camera lasts basically all day with one big v-mount battery.
If you run a cord straight from the battery, I recommend that you use a dummy battery. The camera is designed to use lower voltages from the battery port. If you use a dummy battery, you will also lose the ability to hot swap your battery during a long shoot.
I have 15-20 of those batteries and they work great. I have had only had one of them die over the past 2 or three years of regular use. I have the batteries numbered, but I don't keep track of when I buy them, so I have no idea how long the batteries lasted before dying.
IIRC, I think that Tom Antos mentioned killing some of his monitors that provide power to the camera because of the heavy power draw from the BMPCC4K, so I would hesitate trying to draw power from the monitor.
Unfortunately, I can't recommend a store that will ship those to Australia.
 

There were a few memory card posts, including by me, around page 360 in this thread. Mine were at DCI4k/30, ProRes 422, though. I found a couple of posts on the BM forum here: 
https://forum.blackmagicdesign.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=87098&p=488690&hilit=SanDisk+Extreme+Pro#p488957
They said they were only to get the card to work at 12:1 & Q5 raw for 4k/60p.
That card is only a V30 card, so it isn't too surprising to me that it can't record at the higher data rates required for the higher quality raw formats. Just FYI, I use the T5 and it records all formats on my cameras. There were also some really cheap CFAST cards mentioned a few days back on this thread that should work.

Kisaha, I have used a wide range of lenses with the P4K and have been happy with them. Perhaps this will help you.
Here are a few:
NOTE: My Metabones doesn't AF with any of my lenses (that I recall). I also don't get vignetting with the 0.71 adapter (that I recall).
Metabones 0.71 + Sigma 18-35 EF Metabones 0.71 + Tokina 11-16 EF Metabones 0.71 + Canon 24-105 EF Metabones 0.71 + Canon 100-400 EF Metabones 0.71 + Sigma 20mm f/1.8 Panasonic 12-35 f/2.8 Panasonic 35-100 f/2.8 Olympus 12-100 f/4 Sigma 16 f/1.4 Sigma 30 f/1.4 Panasonic 42.5 f/1.2 Rokinon Cinema DS 85mm T1.5

I used BRAW exclusively on a shoot for the first time earlier this week. The footage is *very* easy to work with. I was shocked when I just opened Resolve, pulled the DCI 4K clips in, and started editing, without creating proxy files or doing anything special. It was as easy to use as pulling a Prores file into Final Cut.
Given the advantages of RAW and the small file sizes of BRAW, I suspect that we will be shooting BRAW most of the time going forward.