billdoubleu

While there seems to be quite a few complaints about BRAW from heavy forum users, I've now worked on two high profile Ad campaigns that have used BRAW and haven't heard a DP complain about it. At the same time, I've spoken first hand to VFX guys and girls that have said that they are really happy with the new codec. 
Here's a few pics of the P4K being used as a B Cam on a recent car ad for those interested.
 
 

is there anyone use his/her bm for street "photography" ? Since I don't want to carry another camera, I shoot quite a bit at low shutter angle and just grab still frame from it. The resolution works quite well for me since instagram is my main publishing platform
https://www.instagram.com/harrykise/
 

 

So, let me see if I caught everything there:
It's an 8K camera that can't record 8K Canon don't even have an external 8K recorder They made an 8K video but we can't watch it in 8K A YouTuber with a RED posted an 8K video on YT over two years ago, but Canon hasn't worked out how to do it yet? Did I miss anything?

old c-mounts and ibis are indeed a thing of beauty!  I shot a video today with a friend, all GX85, awesome Fujinon 12.5mm with a bit of fungus. That lens is the only reason i still have that camera. So this is from today, with grade and edit right after it. I should do that every week. 1hour shootin, no planning ahead. fun thing: shot in vivid, full contrast and sharpness +2, color at +4, though at the lit parts at -5.  Finally my first "real" video with the GX85, after almost two years owning it!
 

Shooting some Superbike testing at the circuit today with the LS300 and his new best friend the Atomos Ninja V.
And in one fell swoop its achilles heel of abysmal monitoring is solved and 4K60p added without having to wrestle with the bigger recorders.
A very worthwhile upgrade for £550.

The video looks great! Your edit?
I would love to see a photo of how that lens looks on that body.

OK, as requested by @Grimor I've just written an additional app for live tweaking of the parameters.

Usual instructions, so put your Panasonic camera into wifi mode and attach your phone/tablet then press the Connect button in the app.
Select a base profile with the Profile button and then tweak away on the sliders.
Press the STILL button to, erm, take a still and the REC button will start a video recording.
While the video is recording, your tweaks are still live to the camera and will be recorded.
Download link is here
https://mega.nz/#!djgk1aIL!fzloi_GiFqTNULCcYhCaG0oZHes6sQd-RzW_PsUlK-I
Enjoy !
 

So, as you may recall, I have an interest in tweaking the combinations of the basic profiles in the camera along with the contrast/sharpness/saturation/NR parameters.
The purpose of that is basically a mining operation to see if there are some combinations that perhaps may not be intuitive but whose interaction may yield pleasing results.
Outside of the usual "select cinelike d, reduce everything to -5" etc stuff that we all do, who really knows if Natural with +4 contrast/-5 sharpness/+3 saturation/+2 noise reduction might actually be the golden ticket?
I did a hardware controller last year based on a midi control surface that let you tweak the parameters in real time which, whilst offering a way of 'discovery through play', wasn't exactly ideal from a structured testing point of view. 
It also wasn't particularly practical (or cheap) for you to go out and replicate yourselves if you fancied a go !
Anyway, in pursuit of something a bit more structured, I created a very simple automated testing app which I thought I might as well hand out in case anyone else is interested in this sort of thing.
Its Android only so you elitists with that other phone type are out of luck for now
As its also a bit of a utilitarian thing that was only really designed for my own meddling, its not exactly pretty either but it works. Mainly.
OK, so here is how it looks, how to use it and what it does.
 
First things first, obviously, is to enable the Wifi on your Panasonic camera as per if you were using their app and then go into your phone/tablet and connect to it.
In the ProfileStepper app, you then press the "Connect" button and it will take control of the camera. It might complain the first time about approving the connection but if it does just repeat and it will be fine.
Once connected, you press the individual parameter buttons and select the range that you are interested in so in this example we have set it to be using the base Natural profile and how it looks with all permutations of Contrast from -5 to +3, Sharpness from -2 to 0, Saturation from -5 to +5 and NR from -5 to +1.
Next up is to set if you want to use Stills or Video, which we toggle between by pressing the Stills button and then to create a delay (of between 1 and 10 seconds) between shots you press the button (currently set to 2 seconds) and select it.
When you are happy with the settings range, press the Start button and the app will begin compiling the list of commands it needs to send to the camera. As this is a variable amount of time (in our example there are 2079 commands ) you may see a progress pop-up before it proceeds to the playout screen. Be patient.
The progress screen will then appear and display the value of each parameter in the set it is sending to the camera and the current progress (in this case we are on set 4 of 2079).

After it sends each set to the camera, if you have the mode set to Stills it will then fire the shutter on the camera. Obviously, make sure you have a decent memory card capacity if you are testing a lot of permutations!
If you are set to Video mode, a recording will begin on the camera as soon as you pressed the Start button and the changes will all be recorded into this one recording. This is where the Delay function becomes useful as it determines how long each setting is held on the video as it progresses. As with the Stills mode, be careful regarding capacity as if you have 1000 permutations with a Delay time of 5 seconds then, well....
In either mode, pressing the Stop button will abort and return you to the main screen and if you are in video mode it will stop the recording.
The purpose of the progress screen is not just to provide you with a countdown to whats going on but also meant to act as a slate so that you can put your phone/tablet in your test scene and the settings will then be embedded in the images/video when you review them. This is an example frame from a GX80 to illustrate. 
There is a 3 second delay built in to the beginning of the command playout process to allow you to do this but obviously as the camera is being controlled over Wifi you can place the phone/tablet in the scene and press Start from there anyway. This just gives you a chance to get your hand out of the way !

So there you go.
Its a bit of a niche app to say the least but might be useful for some.
Bear in mind, its not really meant to be about analysing every single permutation in one go (though it can do that if you want) its more about helping you to look at how more targeted ranges of settings interact with each other (such as Saturation and Contrast in a specific Profile for example). And what exactly is the Noise Reduction bringing to the party in terms of colour shifts and sharpening etc.
Download link is here
https://mega.nz/#!Vux3UDIK!TPJNYc8gJ6YrQY5T8xkZRAQ_IpBac16xIIGe3ET6R0Y
You'll need to set your device to install apps from non-Play store sources etc.
Its completely free, no ads or any bollocks like that.
As I say, its my own test tool and wasn't designed for general release but thought it might be useful to share.
If nothing else, its a quick way to get the Cinelike D hack on to your camera!
Because its just a quick and dirty test tool, there is no particularly elegant error handling going on (other than telling you that you haven't connected the camera) so if it throws one up just quit and restart it. 
If you set the To range to be lower than the From range (i.e. the From is -3 and the To is -4) then it won't execute the commands so don't do that. 
NB - The eagle eyed amongst you may have spotted the Bracket function at the bottom of the screen. This does exactly what you might expect but its unrelated to the main function but I needed it to test something so you get it as a bonus! You set the shutter speed and then the 1/3rd steps above and below and press Bracket and it takes the required frames with suitably altered shutter speeds. Its a bit flaky on some Panasonic cameras because they don't all allow the 1/3rd shutter changes so your mileage may vary and, as I say, you can largely ignore it.

I'm going to bang the Ninja Star drum again but I've got to say that if they were going to split the Ninja V into its two component parts then they've arguably decided to sell the wrong half !
Don't get me wrong, its a great monitor for that price but at £349 the extra £200 for the Ninja V having the recorder is almost a no brainer.
Whereas if they reversed that equation and made a compact recorder only version for £200 then everyone who's cameras offer enhanced frame rates and bit rates over HDMI only would be all over it.
And while we're at it, Atomos would also have a big hit by doing an affordable EVF.

I think making something cinematic occurs on every level within film-making.
The purely creative elements such as narrative and story structure, layering, complexity, poetry, and world can captivate the viewer and take them to another place.
The artistic elements of film-making such as lighting, composition, casting and dramatic performances, wardrobe, art-department, sound design, music, editing and grading etc can create the texture of the world, matching the visual aesthetic with the conceptual elements previously mentioned.
The technical elements such as camera movement, 180 degree shutter, etc.
The YouTuber "how to be cinematic" focuses on the technical elements because they're easy to talk about, unfortunately the above categories are in descending-order of importance.
It's like how most YouTubers fill their vlogs with cinematic b-roll sequences, when instead they should fill them full of interesting and useful content instead