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thephoenix

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Posts posted by thephoenix

  1. 6 hours ago, jpleong said:

    I've not used HLG.

    I ETTR when I have time.

    Zebras can tell you more as they tell you WHAT is overexposed (same with Waveform vs Historgram).

    Traditionally, zebras are set between 70-100 IRE (which I believe correlates to 70%-100% on the X-T3).

    I have "My Menu" setup so that Zebra On/Off and Zebra settings are a quick few button presses away. I use 100% to see if anything is completely overexposed and then between 40-80% to light skin tones.

    did a quick test setting zebra to 100% then going to the limit of the 100 using the nd filter and then ETTR.

    did the same with 95 and 90% but got more details in the shade with 100 and i keep the highlights ok,  so as highlights are not clipped in resolve and got details in the shadows i think i am gonna work like that for the next projects.

  2. well i did a quick test setting zebra to 100% then going to the limit of the 100 using the nd filter and then ETTR.

    did the same with 95 and 90% but got more details in the shade with 100 and i keep the highlights ok,  so as highlights are not clipped in resolve and got details in the shadows i think i am gonna work like that for the next projects.

  3. 23 minutes ago, BTM_Pix said:

    Whatever happened to you trying to get a cable from Tilta ?

    The Fuji remote does not require any power as it gets it from the camera.

    I think the easiest approach for you to do is to buy one of these cheap £10.99 RR100 compatible remotes from Amazon

    511C4QVrOXL._SL1000_.thumb.jpg.b5145b329589d7a79e417b698927710d.jpg

    Then crack open the handle part and take it from there as at least you will then have a fully working example to work from.

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/JJC-Shutter-Release-Fujifilm-Replaces/dp/B07K9VLFN2

    If you want to be a bit more fancy then they do a wireless version for £21.50 that you could do the same thing with.

    51DrR9gbymL._SL1000_.thumb.jpg.f367393c5609a2515d12b20735edcc3e.jpg

    This may well be more appropriate as you can have the handle anywhere then without running cables.

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wireless-Shutter-Release-Fujifilm-Replaces/dp/B07N5J6LZM

    thanks man

    well the think with the wireless is that you need the receiver, so it would take more room than just a simple cable coming from the handle.

    for the tilta, it was for the nucleus nano, ordered the lanc cable but doesn't work :( i think this will be my next job to have this #"*#~& nucleus nano work with the fuji but i think it is way more complicated as the nano has his own connectors.

     

    29 minutes ago, Adam Kuźniar said:

    Literally on the same website there's a section about Fujifilm - https://www.doc-diy.net/photo/remote_pinout/#fuji 

    AFAIK it's being powered by the camera.

     

    Also check this out - https://www.fujix-forum.com/threads/diy-x-t1-wired-remote-release-for-bulb-mode.21852/

     

    Or just search for a "diy shutter release"

    thanks will check that

  4. guys i need your help

    i saw this video and want to do the same for my xt3.

    thing is the guy doens't give any technical informations about how he does it.

    finding the handle, the cable and the start stop button is not difficult, drilling i have the equipment.

    but what i don't know is how it works.

    i mean does it need power ? do i have to include a battery somewhere or just need to weld the wires to the button ?

    i think @androidlad and @BTM_Pix you are the most skilled ones to answer my questions, maybe...

     

  5. 18 minutes ago, Geoff_L said:

    Has someone tried them ? I want something nice to play with log footages before diving into grading sessions.

    no but over 150 luts for 5 bucks.. c'mon

    2 minutes ago, Cinegain said:

    Yeah, slick site and all, but who? Google search mentions one of the images of the site being uploaded 5 days ago. That's how long the site is up?

    So there's no history, background, names, except for claiming they're trusted within the industry and 'their work' is just collecting LUTs as they are 'acquired LUTs directly from the top colorists in Hollywood' in a 'A Pack of 157 Brilliant Colour Perfection LUTs'. Although the actual cinematic LUTs only are described as there being 37 of 'em elsewhere. Why isn't there any demos with actual videos? Before and afters?

    So... did they just steal a bunch of LUTs they've found online and trying to sell 'em in a bundle?

    interresting

    i'll check if my credit card hasn't a million dollard debt then ?

     

  6. On 7/27/2019 at 2:23 AM, noone said:

    Well a large percentage of people are using APSC and on those 50mm Is pretty close to 80 (75mm FF angle of view for most and 80mm for Canon 1.6).

    I guess they just made a lot more 50s for a lot longer and it used to be people got a 28mm a 50mm and a 135mm with 85s becoming a thing after that.

    I have just got a cheap little APSC Sony and my only AF remaining E mount lens Is the Sony Zeiss 55 1.8 which I am going to be using pretty much AS an 85 (well 82.5) and it will do better than many of the real 85s I had on FF (Sony 85 1.8 FE possibly excepted) and will be a hell of a lot easier to use than my old FD 85 1.2L  FF.

    i have the canon 85 1.4 is lens and never ever use it with my xt3. actually i never used it i think, sold my 85 1.2 to get it, maybe it wasn't a smart move.

    well i will test it some day but yes the long focals are not my favorites

  7. as long as they keep stucked with their marketing / commercial policy saying this camera cannot do that because the more expensive does it they will keep falling.

    i don't feel sorry for them, had canon for years but they just do either shitty cameras that are really expensive for what they really are either good cameras that cost a ton.

    competitors aren't waiting.

  8. On 7/24/2019 at 8:26 PM, Justforfun said:

    I loved the XT3. My only gripe was the lack of IBIS. I've managed to MacGyver my way into fitting the Ronin S on my backpack but unless I shoot higher frame rate and slow it down in post, all 24fps footage are almost unusable with my run and gun style. Even a simple pan reveal  shot. I had to part ways with it in favour of S1's better low light, great IBIS, and equally great IQ. I will still use the gimbal for more planned shots.

    The 4k60 on the XT3 has a slight crop but otherwise it was great IQ. The thing with Fuji was their lenses breathed so heavily and their pricing really did not make sense. For example, my Panasonic 24-105 is only $200 more than the Fuji 16-55. Their not that much different in size and weight, but the Panny has OIS, longer reach, and macro capabilities.  

    I will return to the Fuji once sort out my Panny system though. I would get the XT30 + 35mm 1.4 for street photography but in terms of video I am fully invested in the Panny S series.

     

    EDIT: To stay on topic - I am still waiting for my VLOG key in Toronto. I don't understand why they don't just email us the key. It's been 2 weeks now. I mean it was hard getting over the fact that people from Europe was getting the upgrade for free while I had to pay for it, but for it to take this long is just annoying. I would love for @Sage to make a GHA LUT optimized for the S1 :) 

    you can also control your 4K 60 settings with the xt3, it makes a real difference to me

  9. 47 minutes ago, kye said:

    Here's a general question that will show my ignorance of anamorphics...  if the lens on an iPhone has a particular FOV, what happens when you put the anamorphic lens onto it?  Does it the horizontal angle of view get wider?  Does the vertical get less?  Both?

    Making the default lens wider would be worth something - I much prefer a 16mm FOV over a 24 or 28mm FOV.

    depends on the stretch but yes it goes wider for sure, vigneting is an issue so got to be carefull with it

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