Jim Chang
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Posts posted by Jim Chang
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You need to separate the helicoid from the front glass housing. Just take out all the screws, and go from there. Soon you will figure it out. When you have the front glass housing & rear glass housing separately, then you have a lot of options to go from there, check our recent rehousing efforts on a similar 35mm scope:
https://rapidotechnology.wordpress.com/2021/02/16/story-behind-developing-fvd-35np-fmj-35/
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Finally, the tutorial about rehousing the B&L attachment I scope:
https://rapidotechnology.wordpress.com/2021/02/16/story-behind-developing-fvd-35np-fmj-35/
Enjoy my friends.
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You should adjust the rear glass's orientation, instead of removing the locking tab from the front glass housing. Best of luck.
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Check the FVD-35A, which is designed for 35mm projection anamorphic scopes, like HIFI-2:
https://www.rapidotechnology.com/products/front-variable-diopter/fvd-35a
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On 10/21/2019 at 11:58 AM, racer5 said:
Hi Timoetheus, Jim recommended just loosening it up over time. It's certainly usable after much use, just too much friction for follow focus at the ends.
HI, Racer5,
PM me on facebook, will send you the manual of 16A, it has instructions to adjust the drag force yourself.
Best,Jim
Rapido
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I have most of larger 35mm scopes, probably 20 of them. I like HIF-2, Bausch Lomb Attachment I, and Moller 63/2x, which are vintage look, the ISCO & Schneider are modern & cleaner looks. I am trying to shoot some tests of these scopes pairing with FVD-35A, stay tuned.
https://www.rapidotechnology.com/products/front-variable-diopter/fvd-35a
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On 8/30/2018 at 8:24 AM, EnigmoMedia said:
Trying to use the GOLDEN Kowa S35 but have little luck, do I need to modify it a bit?
You don't need to modify it, just a little bit heavier than 16mm scopes.
Pretty sharp lens.
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Mauri's fully assembled lens package with customized engraving. Check out Mauri's amazing work at: http://www.mauridgaliano.es/
- webrunner5, Dr. Verbel' and buggz
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Just finished the first customized engraving metal jacket. More customized jackets & jackets for Bolex 16/32 & Kowa C35 are coming.
- Ian Edward Weir and Bold
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Here is a picture from a customer of FMJ, he is using Kowa 8Z with CoreDNA. I will post more picture from other customers, who have customized the engraving on the FMJ. Stay tuned.
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This is developed for the people who like to build a definite professional looking anamorphic lens with Rectilux HardCoreDNA or SLRMagic Rangefinder.
Customized engraving service is available, so you can put focal length & T stop engraving on the lens, like real cinema anamorphic lens does.
Features:
- Exchangeable connection to Rectilux HardCoreDNA or SLRMagic Rangefinder
- Rail support bracket with ¼-20 screw mounting hole to use with SmallRig Quick Release Lens Support
- Build-in locking mechanism to prevent focus ring of the anamorphic lens from rotating
- Standard 82mm thread connection to Rapido V2 clamp
- Customized engraving service (with additional cost)
- Maintain minimum distance between variable diopters and anamorphic lens
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Supported anamorphic lens list:
- Kowa 8z/16H
- Kowa B&H
- ISCO Cinemascope Ultra-Star (Red)
- ISCO Cinemascope Ultra-Star 50 mm (Golden)
- Schneider Super Cinelux Anamorphic 2X MC
- Schneider ES Cinelux Anamorphic 2X MC
For more information, check over here: http://www.rapidotechnology.com/products-services/rapido-front-metal-jacket
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On 4/23/2017 at 0:04 AM, Hans Punk said:
I just got a reply from Brian Berkey (very nice guy) - he said he does not have the exact model number for the full spec sheet to hand, but here are the important details for wiring. The Berkey motor comes with 4 bare wires for the user to solder to most common 4 pin connectors.
NEMA 14
1A, 2.7V
Black A+
Green A-
Red B+
Blue B-Hi, Hank,
Here is the independent encoder unit, which can be rail mounted on the side to record rotational information of the focus ring. I also provide two controller packages for order, package A & package B. package B is the one without the motor unit, and it's part 0009 at http://www.rapidotechnology.com/home
I can modify the controller parameter to work with your Berkey motor, I can also provide an additional motor cable connector, which you can wire it to your Berkeley motor. Thanks.
Jim
Rapido
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Hi, Hanks,
The current motor cable connector in the Single Focus Solution is the 4 pin connector as seen below.
I can provide you a cable with open wires at the end, and the pin layout, you can wire them to the Berkeley cable connector, by matching pin layout correctly. The current controller works fine with 12V stepper with max current around 1A. So only thing you would need is a special motor cable. I can provide that as an option to order. The price of the package without motor will be listed on the website too. :-), will update soon. Thanks for the input.
Jim
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10 hours ago, Hans Punk said:
@Jim Chang Also...and a non focus motor option to the kit would be awesome for those (like me) who would like to use their existing Berkey focus motor. If you could supply an open ended 4 core cable (with pin-out description) would make it very easy to wire a compatible cable. By the looks of it, the Berkey motor would have a bit more of a flexible reach and slimmer profile to get closer to smaller taking lenses. I use mine with a motion control rig, and have never encountered a lens that I can't use it on... (including pancake lenses).
http://store.berkeysystem.com/focus-motor/
Unless your motor has encoder to register position data for the controller?...in which case third party motor support is not possible I expect.
I certain can do that, but different stepper motors have different voltage & current ratings, it may not be compatible to the current controller, which could end up overheating your motor & drain up your battery very fast. If you really want to use the berkey motor, I would have to get a full spec of that motor & adjust parameters in the controller accordingly. btw, the current motor doesn't have encoder on it.
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10 hours ago, Hans Punk said:
Looks great Jim!
is it possible to have the FF encoder on a separate rail mount so that focusing can be made by hand (or is it hard coupled to supported FF models?)...would be great option to have as an independent encoder, being FF type agnostic and act as a slave for other FIZ motors via mechanical input/relay. This would be a very flexible solution for existing owners of FF units that are not on your list...as well as allow motion control /remote focus rigs with FIZ motors to be mechanically synced to a taking lens slave.
I guess now the only issue now is taking lenses that considerably extend (travel) when focusing. Having the setup locked down to rails could limit the proximity of a lens to anamorphic rear...maybe a mini flexible donut connector would work for many scenarios.
can different taking lenses be calibrated on the fly with a remote?...or does it have to be done with external software. Would it be practical to save presets for different taking lenses and switch settings after a lens change?
I look forward to more info...this looks very much like the solution I was thinking about experimenting with. I can see it being a very attractive solution for larger lenses that require rail mounting anyway...lomo nap type lenses might be going up in value soon
Big kudos for getting something working!
Hi, Hanks,
Thanks for the suggestions, really appreciated.
I am working on an independent encoder unit, that can be mounted on the side to measure the rotation of the anamorphic focus ring. As you mentioned, this will help people with non-supported follow focus units.
To work with non internal focusing taking lens, I plan to create an Adapter Housing connecting the V2 clamp's rear 77mm thread to the stationary part of the taking lens, so even the front element moves out, it will be hidden inside this Adapter Housing, A prototype design is undergoing for Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 lens. Will update soon.
After calibration, the controller stores the calibration result, so you don't need to re-calibrate the lens after power-off. Just move both lens to the starting point, and power on, you are ready to go. Only time when you need to re-calibrate is when you switch to a new taking lens or a new anamorphic lens. I plan to implement trajectory recording functions, and user can switch between multiple trajectories on the fly, without need to re-calibrate.
Thank you again, I will keep you updated.
Jim Chang
Rapido
8 hours ago, racer5 said:Jim I love your clamps and this looks really interesting. My main reservation is that taking lenses of choice are often small, old, stiff little numbers (like the Helios), which are not suited for FF gears - and pushing/pulling heavy anamorphic fronts back and forth.
That said, this is a great development and very much look forward to seeing more.
I am working on a re-housing solution for the Helios lens, which hidden the protruding front inside a adapter housing, this housing connects the V2 clamp's rear thread to the stationary part of the Helios. Thanks,
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On 4/8/2017 at 7:52 AM, buggz said:
I will have to post my humble anamorphic beach test video, somehow...
I love this clamp setup, my rig works great!
Camera: GH4
Taking Lens: Minolta Rokkor 58mm f1.2 - mount converted to Canon EOS
Speedbooster: Metabones 0.64 XL - m4/3 to Canon EOS mount
Anamorphic Lens: KOWA for Bell & Howell
Anamorphic Clamp: Rapido V2 Clamp
Looking forward to the video. :-)
On 4/12/2017 at 1:37 AM, DamienMTL said:Hi that sounds really good!
if you are working on a new single focus device and it's still in R&D, I would highly suggest you work also on the mechanical part of it.
The perfect single focus device would have a front filter thread/ring that does not rotate, to be able to mount a clip-on mattebox in exemple. the competitors does not have it and it's really annoying.
also the distance travelled by the focusing ring is too long both on the "SLR magic range finder" and on the Core DNA. if you can develop a system that does not travel, that would be awesome and would allow to fix the mattebox bracket to the rods steadily and not letting it slide on them.
- fixed/non rotating front filter/ring for standard cinema clip on mattebox
- non travelling focus ring
- neutral color flares
- metric and imperial marks
- for the price of the rangefinder
if you have the 5 features, your system will sell millions of them!
Good luck in your R&D
You are right, mechanical is an important part of the system. At this point, I don't have time to develop a one for all type of single focus solution, the focus will be on the image quality, sharpness & neutral color flares.
After this, I will probably provide lens rehouse service, which rehouse the single focus solution & the anamorphic lens as one single lens. Then all the mechanical side of the design will be addressed.
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On 1/23/2017 at 2:22 PM, DIGICHombre said:
Hi, I'm interested in purchasing this but I don't quite understand how it connects to an anamorphic lens? How does that gold slip ring stay secure? Is it customized fit for every vintage lens ?
So this is how parts connect together: Anamorphic lens + step down ring + V2 clamp + step up ring + Taking lens.
the gold slip ring is secured inside the black ring by three screws. The clamp is customized for each vintage anamorphic lens by using the customized step down ring to connect the vintage lens to the clamp. See more details over here: http://www.rapidotechnology.com/products-services/customized-step-up-down-rings
Or send me an email to info@rapidotechnology.com, thanks,
Jim
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Check out the test video of the Rapido Single Focus Solution, my setup is as follows:
- Camera: GH4
- Taking Lens: Rokion 85mm T1.5 Cine Lens for CANON
- Anamorphic Lens: KOWA for Bell & Howell
- Anamorphic Clamp: Rapido V2 Clamp
- ISO setting: 1600
- Shutter speed: 400
- Aperture: T1.5
- Video format: MOV, FHD
- Aspect ratio: 3.556:1 (1920:1080 with 2X anamorphic squeeze)
The minimum focus is 1 meter. Different anamorphic lenses are used as focus targets, set between 1 meter and 2.5 meters from the camera. The video shows racking focusing from close focus to infinity.
The aperture is kept wide open at T1.5. There is no sharpness drop comparing to the original Kowa & Rokinon combination, and there is no change of the original flare/bokeh character from the anamorphic lens. This is the main difference comparing to other Single Focus Solutions, like SLR Magics, FM Module, and Rectilux.
More test videos will be uploaded soon.
Youtube video is here: https://youtu.be/h96fqNsKpEI
Vimeo video is here: https://vimeo.com/206798264 (better resolution)
Music: Cloud by Ehrling, link: https://soundcloud.com/ehrling/ehrling-clouds
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On 6/14/2016 at 10:29 AM, Manjeet Singh said:
Trying to buy a matching diopter for the wid angle adapter...What would be a good match for this 0.7X Century Optics Wide angle converter lens?
Can someone please suggest !
I tested Century 0.7X converter lens, it's designed for Panasonic DVX100A/B camera which only has 1/3" Optical Sensor Size. When using it on camera with full frame sensor, even with 100mm prime lens, the aberrations over edge is crazy, but maybe someone would love it. if you want to build a sharp one, pick something else for your test. Navitar is a decent one: https://navitar.com/products/projection/screenstar-conversion-lenses/standard-screenstar-lenses/
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On 10/27/2016 at 4:36 AM, tommykristensen said:
I read it as the first 50 listing are free - but you still have to pay the fee.
It would be better to do paypal transaction directly, to avoid ebay fees. :-)
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On 10/24/2016 at 0:45 PM, SassySpaceMan said:
Thank you! In the case of these larger lenses projector lenses, their minimum focus distance is around 15m-20m and their maximum focal distance extends past infinity for the focal plane of the camera. Thats why shortening the distance is required for this lens. I recently came by a lot of well preserved yet massive anamorphics for basically nothing in auction, in their current state they are very impractical for filming but since I have so many I can hack away, experiment and adapt.
If you want to sell some of these lenses? I would be interested in buying from you. :-), how many do you have?
info@rapidotechnology.com, let me know, thanks.
Jim
Rapido
ISCO ULTRA STAR HIGH DEFINITION ANAMORPHIC Disassembly
In: Cameras
Posted
Welcome, glad it helps.