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Everything posted by Bold

  1. No worries...I think maybe we’re both talking about two different goals / approaches? It sounds like you’re seeking a single-focus solution for your Baby H and Sankyoscope? Whereas my goal was to find ways to make the B&H user-friendly for filmmaking. When modified according to the information found throughout this thread, you can turn the B&H into a single-focus, close-focus, rack-focus, sharp-focus, lightweight, 2x anamorphic solution with fantastic flares and a warm, organic cinematic feel. On a micro four-thirds camera, the B&H will accept a 55mm or 58mm taking lens with little or no vignetting (or a slightly wider taking lens if you’re shooting in 4:3 mode). I could have bought a 'proper' single-focus module, but where’s the fun in that? One advantage is my modification is compact and lighter than a B&H with a SF module attached to it. I definitely didn’t save any money doing the modification...at first. But now that I have modified several B&H’s, I can make them more quickly and efficiently. But the biggest advantage I gained was the amount I learned over the course of the prototyping - I look forward to hearing about what you learn in your pursuits! Excellent! I've been so focused on my goals that it didn't occur to me about other potential uses for the B&H. It's great that you're thinking about other ways to get utility out of this anamorphic... definitely post back here with your findings! Best, |. . | .|
  2. Guillaume, good luck with your experiments - although I don't think kitbashing parts of the B&H with other scopes will get desirable results. The B&H is not meant as an alternative to the FM module, SLR Magic Rangefinder, or the Rectilux Core DNA. The B&H 16mm anamorphic 2x projection lens is a complete anamorphic in itself, ideally suited as a single-focus solution for micro four-thirds cameras.
  3. Here's my badly photoshopped cross-section of what I mentioned above. The narrowing inner cone of the Helios prevents the B&H from touching the glass of the taking lens. You just have to slide them together with caution and care, to avoid scraping inner section of the taking lens. Me too! I picked up a couple 44-2's for cheap last year, but I haven't used them much because I love love love the image quality of the original 44. I'm probably going to take one of the 44-2's and do this since I have the Kowa glass as well. Thanks Tito! Can't wait to see the video... so glad you had fun with the mod !!!
  4. A small update to B&H modding: I’ve been using the silver Series VII ring that comes on the back of most B&H’s found on eBay. I made a polyurethane version for Tito since his did not come with one. The ring is great for adapting to whatever taking lens you’re using. On a whim I decided to take off the silver ring to see if I could get my Helios any closer to the back of the anamorphic. Here’s the back of the B&H without the silver ring. Since my Helios has a diameter of less than 61mm (which is the inner diameter of my support bracket), I was able to slide it closer so that the back of the B&H is actually sitting inside the taking lens. So the series VII ring isn’t necessarily needed in all situations. It doesn’t necessarily improve the resulting image either, but it is a snug fit. In other cases, like if you have a taking lens with a 72mm thread, I would definitely recommend a 72mm-to-S7 adapter to ensure that your lenses are locked, light-sealed, and centered. On Tito’s advice, I also took a 3D file for a follow focus ring, altered it, and fit it around the helicoid of my B&H mods. It’s a much easier process than hand-gluing focus strips, and the results are a little nicer looking too. Cheers, |. . | .|
  5. I also want to thank Tito for all his amazing posts & work - I wouldn't have gotten nearly as far with my work without it. Thanks!!!
  6. Guillaume, I have mods with both sizes, and they both work fine. If focusing closer than 1m is not that important to you, the 17-31mm will fit your needs. But the 25-55mm helicoid is only a little more expensive than the 17-31mm, so I think it's worth getting the 25-55mm to get that extra close focus. Cheers, |. . | .|
  7. I applaud your determination and inventiveness!
  8. If the fungus is on the front/outside surface of the glass, it can probably be removed easily. If the fungus is on the inside, it should probably be disassembled and cleaned. If you have a trusted camera store in your area they may be able to do it for you. But I think most camera stores won't clean (or will charge more to clean) a lens they are unfamiliar with. For example, the camera shop I go to won't touch some of the obscure and vintage lenses I've brought to them. I'm not familiar with the Bolex 16/32 so don't know if $1500 USD is a fair price. You may want to check around to see what it would cost to have the lens serviced - then subtract that cost from the asking price, and make an offer to the seller. Or, wait until another Bolex comes up on eBay that doesn't have any issues. They don't appear often, but they do appear. Good luck in your search!
  9. MattRozier, try this link
  10. A large follow focus design like this would reduce the throw. There's a lot more info on the B&H in this thread. The short version of my mod (based on QuickHitRecord and Rich101's great work), uses a helicoid with 14mm travel distance, resulting in a throw of about 135 degrees. My long version, a helicoid with 31mm travel, is somewhere in the neighborhood of 330 degrees. Have you watched Tito Ferradans' review of this lens? He talks about full frame coverage. As Rich101 has said, this lens is best suited for camera MFT sensors. Cheers, |. . | .|
  11. magellan, welcome! There's really no one piece of advice that's going to fit everyone's needs. The best way to decide on your first anamorphic is to research, research, research. Tito's Anamorphic blog is one of the best starting points. And you won't find a larger collected body of anamorphic knowledge than this forum. Search it deeply! Also look at test footage on Youtube and Vimeo of various lenses to see if a particular brand of lens produces an aesthetic that really appeals to you. Ultimately there is no perfect anamorphic solution. Every choice has benefits and drawbacks. The only way to know the best choice for your is to list our your needs, search through the options, and find the type of lens that most closely matches your needs. Once you find a lens or two that falls within your budget, search EOSHD and other forums to see what others have built to get the most out of those lenses. You'll find that there are different strategies to mounting them... from 'bailing wire & bubble gum,' to buying specialty parts, to custom-fabricating parts on your own, and many options in between. Here are some other thoughts, in no particular order: 1.33x adapters don't have the sharpest image quality and don't do well in low light, but are often the easiest to use. They tend to be lightweight and adapt easily to taking lenses. Usually good flares but less oval bokeh. They are relatively easy to acquire and will run you between $500-800. Not a bad choice for starting anamorphic. Big projector lenses will give you that nice 2x oval bokeh, but vary wildly in terms of flare and image quality. They are invariably heavy so they require a certain amount of adaptation and support (which adds even mre weight). Although I don't have one, there are some dual-focus lenses that appear to deliver great images. But dual focus seems to present another set of headaches if you're shooting something with lots of movement. Probably not something you want to take on as a beginner. Dual focus owners can speak better to the learning curve and the time involved to get good focus during dynamic/complicated shots. Watch some films shot with anamorphic. I just rewatched the original Mad Max, and realized there are some shots with horrible aberrations at the edges, and the film has barrel distortion throughout. But you know what? It doesn't matter. What matters is how the images made me feel, not how razor sharp or technically precise they were. What Bioskop said. It is okay if your anamorphic images aren't perfect - they aren't meant to be. Most importantly, MONEY = TIME. If you save money buying a cheap anamorphic, the more time you'll have to spend getting it to work. So they key the questions are: what's your total budget, and how much spare time are you willing to spend building your rig? I saved money buying some B&H's, but the time it took me to get them to where I needed was enormous. If I had to do it over again, I might have chosen a different route. Then again, I learned a LOT in the process. I hope this helps!
  12. Maybe someone at Schneider/Century has the old specs/data sheets on these?
  13. Other sets of eyes is always good. My other recommendation is to add time to whatever your doing. That is, try to finish ahead of your deadline as best you can, and let the work cool down for a while (longer is better) then re-visit it with fresh eyes to spot the things that need correcting. This is not always realistic or practical in real-world situations, but even couple days away from the material can give enough distance to come back with a more objective eye. Not at all. (or, if it is, I've got it too)
  14. As Rich correctly pointed out, if some polish accidentally gets on your glass it could degrade the coating. The right kind of buff pad might restore some shine.
  15. More importantly, where's the Dramamine?
  16. The body count for the opening scene of Hardboiled : 44. Woo's early work like The Killer, Bullet in the Head, and Hardboiled, are amazing.
  17. Kung Fury is 31 flavors of awesome!
  18. Always hard to pick just one. For me action (or any other) films don't work without sympathetic characters. Ones that are flawed, vulnerable, and nuanced. This is why for me The Road Warrior, Raiders of the Lost Ark, and Die Hard work so well, and to me are a definitive trinity of 80's action. Even the antagonists were interesting. There have certainly been other memorable action films before and after. La Femme Nikita, Hot Fuzz, Hardboiled, The Matrix, 13th Warrior, Big Trouble in Little China, Terminator 2, Aliens and Fury Road are a few others that really stand out in my book. Cameron, McTiernan, and even Carpenter were unrivaled in their heyday. Police Story gets an honorable mention for the relentless awesomeness of Jackie Chan's stunt work. I think action loses a lot when it is overshadowed by CGI. While the current deluge of comic book heros provides entertainment for the eyes, most of these films lack any kind of compelling characters and are ultimately forgettable. If I had to settle on just one to call my favorite, I can't decide. Probably a tie between Raiders and Die Hard.
  19. I want to take a moment to thank everyone who contributed to this thread. Tito, Gabriel, Nahua, and particularly Rich, for your support and the invaluable information you shared that allowed me to get from 'novice anamorphhc modder' to 'slightly-less-novice anamorphic modder.' Seriously, without your insights I never would have finished this mod. I now have three working B&H lens mods. Two have the 14mm helicoids, allowing focus to approx 36 inches, and the 30mm helicoid which provides an amazing 8-inch focus distance. The downside on the 30mm helicoid is that: It still requires several barrel rotations to rack focus from 8 inches out to infinity Focus breathing is noticeable particularly at close distances. Not a bad trade-off, to be able to so close with the camera. I'm going to keep one of the 14mm's as well as the 30mm. I've ordered parts to create a second lens bracket, and will bundle that with the remaining 14mm helicoid modded lens for sale on eBay, to recoup some of my costs. As mentioned, I'm thinking of making the helicoid mod & lens bracket available as a kit if enough B&H owners are interested. So let me know if you are. Now I'm ready to start taking my rig out to do some serious test footage. I'm especially interested in trying my Mamiya Sekor 50mm f1.4 and my Angenieux 12-120mm to see results of night shooting and zooming, respectively. Once again, a thousand thank-yous to everyone in this thread for your help. You've allowed me to realize my goal of shooting in widescreen, an ambition I've had every since I bought my first 8mm movie camera so many years ago. I hope the info in this thread has helped other B&H owners take advantage of this lens. Cheers, |. . | .|
  20. Thank you Rich! Just did this for the front element on a B&H and it made things way easier! Cheers, |. . | .|
  21. This video cites several films which switch (or otherwise play with) aspect ratios.
  22. Buggz, have you tried Handbrake? It doesn't do everything that Alex D's script does, but it's a quick way to convert aspect ratios on PC.
  23. Interesting: I began work on modifying my second B&H and noticed that the front element has no black paint on the side, while my first one does. My guess is that Bell & Howell added the step of painting the element during production of this lens. I suspect the unpainted version is the cause of (or adds to) excessive/barrel flare that some people have experienced. If you're brave and have a steady hand, painting the sides matte black is an easy improvement. Also, I'm considering making a mod kit for B&H owners that would include my customized helicoid, plus the custom lens support, along with instructions. If there are enough people interested, and I can figure out an acceptable price point...
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