Jump to content

Bold

Members
  • Content Count

    217
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Bold

  1. I don't know of anyone who has done this... I think most filmmakers want the flexibility to switch lenses quickly and easily. A single-bodied anamorphic solution that integrates the taking lens would prevent that. But if you only ever wanted to use one taking lens, an "all-in-one" solution could be done. If you want it to be single-focus (where the taking lens is set to infinity, and you focus with the anamorphic), this limits your options. You would probably need an SLR Magic Rangefinder or Rectilux DNA. Many people have made housings where anamorphic alignment is set once, then all t
  2. Aaron, if you plan on doing any modding/adapting, it's worth getting yourself an affordable digital caliper off eBay.
  3. The B&H is a fantastic lens but requires some gymnastics to really get the most out of it. I'm pretty proud of the mod and I believe it optimizes the B&H to its fullest potential. Tito will be posting a review of it tomorrow. In summary, to duplicate my lens modification, read through this entire thread carefully before starting. You should have the following items: B&H 16mm 2x Anamorphic Lens 58mm Helicoid. You can use a 52mm but the 58mm diameter allows a closer fit, The downside is you'll need to fabricate a retainer ring for the front glass element. Tele
  4. Hi froboy88, thanks! I can't say for certain about s35 since I only have an m43 camera. You can use Tito's calculator or maybe this one to help you figure it out. My best guess is that cropping or using 4:3 mode to get a 2:66:1 ratio on the B&H, you would not get vignetting with a 75mm lens on an s35 sensor.
  5. I'm not sure where you're interpreting this from. It can't be done in a weekend for 130€. Not even close It's not unreasonable to ask 1000 CAD for: Single-focus Rack-focus Infinity focus Minimum focus under 1m 2x bokeh Fantastic flares Excellent 15mm rail support / alignment Compact and lightweight Considering the great condition of Tito’s B&H glass, I think he should be asking $1000 USD. It is a turnkey solution. Tito, did you adjust the front by (un)screwing slightly? I was able to get muc
  6. No worries...I think maybe we’re both talking about two different goals / approaches? It sounds like you’re seeking a single-focus solution for your Baby H and Sankyoscope? Whereas my goal was to find ways to make the B&H user-friendly for filmmaking. When modified according to the information found throughout this thread, you can turn the B&H into a single-focus, close-focus, rack-focus, sharp-focus, lightweight, 2x anamorphic solution with fantastic flares and a warm, organic cinematic feel. On a micro four-thirds camera, the B&H will accept a 55mm or 58mm taking lens wit
  7. Guillaume, good luck with your experiments - although I don't think kitbashing parts of the B&H with other scopes will get desirable results. The B&H is not meant as an alternative to the FM module, SLR Magic Rangefinder, or the Rectilux Core DNA. The B&H 16mm anamorphic 2x projection lens is a complete anamorphic in itself, ideally suited as a single-focus solution for micro four-thirds cameras.
  8. Here's my badly photoshopped cross-section of what I mentioned above. The narrowing inner cone of the Helios prevents the B&H from touching the glass of the taking lens. You just have to slide them together with caution and care, to avoid scraping inner section of the taking lens. Me too! I picked up a couple 44-2's for cheap last year, but I haven't used them much because I love love love the image quality of the original 44. I'm probably going to take one of the 44-2's and do this since I have the Kowa glass as well. Thanks Tito! Can't wait to see the video... s
  9. A small update to B&H modding: I’ve been using the silver Series VII ring that comes on the back of most B&H’s found on eBay. I made a polyurethane version for Tito since his did not come with one. The ring is great for adapting to whatever taking lens you’re using. On a whim I decided to take off the silver ring to see if I could get my Helios any closer to the back of the anamorphic. Here’s the back of the B&H without the silver ring. Since my Helios has a diameter of less than 61mm (which is the inner diameter of my support bracket), I was able to slide it clo
  10. I also want to thank Tito for all his amazing posts & work - I wouldn't have gotten nearly as far with my work without it. Thanks!!!
  11. Guillaume, I have mods with both sizes, and they both work fine. If focusing closer than 1m is not that important to you, the 17-31mm will fit your needs. But the 25-55mm helicoid is only a little more expensive than the 17-31mm, so I think it's worth getting the 25-55mm to get that extra close focus. Cheers, |. . | .|
  12. I applaud your determination and inventiveness!
  13. If the fungus is on the front/outside surface of the glass, it can probably be removed easily. If the fungus is on the inside, it should probably be disassembled and cleaned. If you have a trusted camera store in your area they may be able to do it for you. But I think most camera stores won't clean (or will charge more to clean) a lens they are unfamiliar with. For example, the camera shop I go to won't touch some of the obscure and vintage lenses I've brought to them. I'm not familiar with the Bolex 16/32 so don't know if $1500 USD is a fair price. You may want to check around to s
  14. MattRozier, try this link
  15. A large follow focus design like this would reduce the throw. There's a lot more info on the B&H in this thread. The short version of my mod (based on QuickHitRecord and Rich101's great work), uses a helicoid with 14mm travel distance, resulting in a throw of about 135 degrees. My long version, a helicoid with 31mm travel, is somewhere in the neighborhood of 330 degrees. Have you watched Tito Ferradans' review of this lens? He talks about full frame coverage. As Rich101 has said, this lens is best suited for camera MFT sensors. Cheers, |. . | .|
  16. magellan, welcome! There's really no one piece of advice that's going to fit everyone's needs. The best way to decide on your first anamorphic is to research, research, research. Tito's Anamorphic blog is one of the best starting points. And you won't find a larger collected body of anamorphic knowledge than this forum. Search it deeply! Also look at test footage on Youtube and Vimeo of various lenses to see if a particular brand of lens produces an aesthetic that really appeals to you. Ultimately there is no perfect anamorphic solution. Every choice has benefits and drawba
  17. Maybe someone at Schneider/Century has the old specs/data sheets on these?
  18. Other sets of eyes is always good. My other recommendation is to add time to whatever your doing. That is, try to finish ahead of your deadline as best you can, and let the work cool down for a while (longer is better) then re-visit it with fresh eyes to spot the things that need correcting. This is not always realistic or practical in real-world situations, but even couple days away from the material can give enough distance to come back with a more objective eye. Not at all. (or, if it is, I've got it too)
  19. As Rich correctly pointed out, if some polish accidentally gets on your glass it could degrade the coating. The right kind of buff pad might restore some shine.
  20. Bold

    Short film & Gimbal

    More importantly, where's the Dramamine?
  21. The body count for the opening scene of Hardboiled : 44. Woo's early work like The Killer, Bullet in the Head, and Hardboiled, are amazing.
  22. Kung Fury is 31 flavors of awesome!
×
×
  • Create New...