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Bold

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Everything posted by Bold

  1. It doesn't necessarily, but i if you're doing something staged like narrative, size & form factor might not be as big a deal as if you were shooting something where the camera rig had to be more light & nimble, like a documentary or event coverage. I use an el cheapo Fotga DP3000 follow focus. There are better products out there, but it is small, reasonably sturdy and fit my budget, Cheers, |. . | .|
  2. What's your budget? What's your camera/Lens/Rig setup? What are you shooting, narrative, documentary, etc? Provide more info and you will get suggestions that better match your needs. Cheers, |. . | .|
  3. A little more B&L info: The locking ring (silver or red) must be tightened/loosened with the distance ring. I've found two kinds of B&Ls, one has a black body and silver locking ring, the other has a silver body and red locking ring: The black ones were the later models.
  4. Yes, Logan Stewart (Vimeo user Variables of Light) really seems to get the most out of his Bausch & Lomb. And his is a modified B&L using the cooking anamorphic tutorial. I'm wondering if the quality of his footage is a result of how he did the lens mod, how he handled the modded lens (to get better results than this), or both. I found this tidbit on a home theater forum: So this technique apparently takes the projection distances from 50 feet to about 20 feet. I wonder if adjusting the B&L in this manner would reduce the minimum filming distance to closer than 12 feet. I also f
  5. Again great info - thanks! Definitely post those videos if you find them!
  6. enny, I appreciate the info and the picture of your setup! I watched a clip of Roberto Lopez' chopped B&L which used a 24mm Nikon. In a later clip there's a shot at 0:45 where the curvature in the pillars is very pronounced. I don't know if that's a characteristic of the B&L, a result of being too close to the pillars, a byproduct of the lens hack, or some combination. But it's definitely something I want to avoid (or at least minimize). Are there any other tips, details, or footage you could share? Can you explain how you do single-focus with your setup? Do you focus with the B&
  7. I wonder if there was variation in the manufacture, where some lenses did not allow focus, while others did. I've read at least one instance where a B&L owner could do nothing with the focus ring, and it turned out that because of the age of these things, the rings can become solidly stuck in place due to sediment, grime, etc. And as a result, it required an automotive tool and an inordinate amount of torque to un-stick! Thanks - though as I said in my first post, I already bought a B&L - so I'm really looking for hard data on those, rather than what better options are available. Mo
  8. Do you know if that is a result of poor manufacturing or the age & wear on the glass? How does the unevenness affect the image? I would be interested in seeing examples if you have them!
  9. As much as hard data like weight, dimensions, modifications etc would add value to this thread, specific caveats like optical imperfections are also useful. Could you link to some clips that illustrate the uneven glass? Do you mean anamorphic "mumps"?
  10. I have read that the B&L Cinemascopes are large, heavy, cumbersome, low on flare, and require gymnastics to override the minimum focus distance. So I don't have grand expectations for it, but for 75 bucks I can afford to experiment. I'm sorry the Rectimascop didn't work out, that's a bummer. But I'm really looking for usable details, data, and experiences from Bausch & Lomb owners.
  11. I thought this and this were interesting. I know nothing about making optics (or optics in general, for that matter) but maybe of interest to intrepid optical engineers & DIY-ers out there? Also, a hat-tip to Ian for pointing out the Angenieux diopters, I picked up a set for my 12-120mm. Cheers!
  12. While I'm waiting for my new helicoid to arrive for my Bell & Howell Projection Lens, I picked up a Bausch & Lomb Cinemascope Projection Attachment I. I don't have much interest in dual-focus, but the lens was cheap & in good condition, so I thought I'd give it a whirl. I haven't found a whole lot of info on the lens yet, though this mod looks interesting. Like my B&H thread, I'm hoping B&L owners will weigh in with any details, data, or experience using this lens. I won't sink my teeth into this project until I've finished with my B&H, but I figure I'd get the ball
  13. Why not order one here, directly from the source?
  14. My Antares finderscope clamp arrived today and it fits great: Here I reversed the bracket, which puts the base at the end that joins the taking lens. However, this makes the unit nose-heavy: I think it's best to have it clamped the other way around as in the previous pictures - adding stability to the end that gets the most vibration/movement (from focusing). The top screws can be used to help visually align the anamorphic, too. As mentioned, I'll have have to do do some modding to flatten the rail base, but I am very encouraged by the results! All in all, $37 well-spent, I think! C
  15. Thank you for the kind words! Another possible solution is to take a cast of the original front housing, and a cast of a female thread (on my case (58mm), then combine them into one mold. Then cast those in something like brass or rigid polyurethane. Then cut & combine them so one end is a perfect fit for the anamorphic and the other end is a perfect fit for the helicoid. Brass would be ideal but polyurethane is more within my budget. For under $100 I should be able to attempt several casts. Thanks for posting the pics of your B&H's. I'm optimistic the dual clamp rings of the An
  16. Wish I had the caliper before I bought the m58 Oh well. That's what I get for being too eager and not being patient & methodical enough. I may get an m52 helicoid, although I don't know if the thread mount would fit around the 53.88mm end of the anamorphic. Rich, can you verify? I may go ahead and try to work with the m58, still debating I'll really want to find a permanent solution for attaching the helicoid to the anamorphic. Although the anamorphic's 53.88mm thread seems proprietary so I don't know if there's anything I can kitbash in terms of adapter rings or pipe threads. I do
  17. For anyone with a B&H who needs measurements, I threw a digital caliper on mine:
  18. Cool, do you have a picture of your Bell & Howell setup you could share?
  19. ...I meant zooming, not focusing. B&H does the focusing
  20. Thanks Gabriel, I have a Redstan for my Century Optics and it's a fantastic piece of gear. For the B&H, I want something that will both support it's weight and provide the flexibility to slide forward and back a little, as a couple of my lenses change body length when focusing. I thought of fabricating something using parts from a hardware store but in a moment of inspiration I realized the product already existed. Volia: The Antares 50mm finderscope clamp: Weight: ~170gTwo ring clamps for added support & stabilityRing Diameter (inner): 62mm. The diameter of B&H varies along th
  21. I haven't found any clear info on that yet. For full frame it's ~85mm. Not sure what that translates to for Micro 4/3. One B&H owner told me he's using a Nikkor 50mm f1.8 with negligible vignetting on his GH4, but the key word is 'negligible.' I guestimated a 55-58mm prime with angle of view of ~40 degrees would do, but my test indicates otherwise. Any insights or firsthand experience from forum members would be greatly appreciated!
  22. Hi Brandyn, there's some info about the Sun in this thread here.
  23. One of the o-rings arrived today. I spent a couple hours cutting & sanding it down to fit in the helicoid. The real trick was getting the the glass to align (relatively) parallel with the anamorphic lens. I'll probably seek a more accurate solution but it was enough to do some tests. Here is the helicod and the anamorphic, the anamorphic has some white pipe thread tape around it to help secure the helicoid reverse threads. Helicoid attached, focus fully extended. Helicoid fully retracted. Helicoid with improvised (but extremely snug) rubber o-ring. And a 58mm lens cap for good meas
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