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Everything posted by Bold

  1. Here is some crappy test footage I've made using my B&H mod. The first test uses a 14mm helicoid, with the original polyurethane/prototype housing: The second test uses a 30mm helicoid (which allows focus down to about 8-9 inches) and a custom-fit aluminum housing that replaces the polyurethane: All footage was shot using my beloved silver Helios-44. Except for a few underexposed shots where I boosted the brightness, all footage is straight out of the camera & unaltered (I'm far too new at this to attempt color grading, anyways).
  2. Just got my new machined parts back from anodizing. Here's a quick tease: The fit & finish on these things is pretty darned good. I'll post more details once I've had a chance to kick the tires.
  3. Yikes - I do not know who harry56 is or why he was quoting me. I looks like the post has been removed so hopefully that avoids any further confusion. But I just want to clarify for everyone, I was NOT referring to redimp when I made the original comment.
  4. @nickgorey, this is potentially a very exciting development - can you post a picture of the setup/steps to assemble? Have you tested how wide you are able to go without vignetting? Is there any loss in sharpness using the Helder over the native B&H front element?
  5. I have the dirt on this guy. Definitely look for a different eBay seller.
  6. Well that cost more than I had hoped, but the new machined aluminum collars fit great, and have been dropped off for anodizing. Now I just need to order some lock screws. Once I get everything back, I will post pics of my B&H mod Mk II. Should be ready by the beginning of June.
  7. I love the closeup on the eyes! In regards to the WA adapter, tests on my modded B&H produced poor results. I believe this is because the helicoid sets the WA adapter too far from the front element of the B&H. I've decided to bite the bullet, and engage a machinist to create an aluminum part to replace my polyurethane. We reviewed all the pieces my mod to ensure that this new part will fit properly in my custom support bracket. I should have a final product in a few weeks. Cheers, |. . | .|
  8. I'm contemplating making a short run of these, if enough people are interested.
  9. The short answer is, unfortunately, no.
  10. I'm pretty sure The Thing was Panavision...lots of screenshots of Dean Cundey's cinematography here.
  11. Is the 38mm the widest you can go with the GH4 in 4:3 mode? So far, how do you like it in terms of size, weight, mounting, and IQ?
  12. You might look at Rapido Technology for a 16-H clamp.
  13. Very cool, love the elegant simplicity of the design! How's that coming along? Can't wait to see it!
  14. The Helios I used in the video is just a plain 44 (not 44-2 or 44m) with a 13-blade clickless aperture. I don't think there are major optical differences, but I don't know enough about them to say with certainty, Soviet lenses are notorious for manufacture/design variations depending on year and factory of origin, Early 44 versions have the gold coating, I believe the 44-2 and 44m all have purple coatings? There is plenty of info out there on the Helios 44 line of lenses, maybe someone reading this knows of a URL that explains all the differences?
  15. The Helios 44-2 is inexpensive and can deliver fantastic results. The original Helios 44 is harder to find and more expensive, and can deliver amazing results. My GH4 + Helios 44 + B&H anamorphic delivers — in my inexperienced opinion — a very filmic look. If you forward to 0:30 on my video you can see what this combo looks like straight out of the camera (keep in mind I am a complete novice and the footage reflects this, too). I highly recommend either the Helios 44 or 44-2 as a great investment.
  16. Bold

    Who made this lens?

    Love the Zeiss IQ. That purple flare is wonderful.
  17. It is one of the heaviest anamorphics out there (the big 35mm 2x projection lenses usually weigh around 3lb), minimum focus can be brought down to 12ft, there's more info on this lens here and here.
  18. Judging by pictures of the Galileo Anamorfico, it is a re-branded Bausch & Lomb Cinemascope Attachment I, so it will have identical optical properties..
  19. Nope, not intentional. I just snapped a couple quick pics before I put it on rails to align & take test footage.
  20. I don't know of anyone who has done this... I think most filmmakers want the flexibility to switch lenses quickly and easily. A single-bodied anamorphic solution that integrates the taking lens would prevent that. But if you only ever wanted to use one taking lens, an "all-in-one" solution could be done. If you want it to be single-focus (where the taking lens is set to infinity, and you focus with the anamorphic), this limits your options. You would probably need an SLR Magic Rangefinder or Rectilux DNA. Many people have made housings where anamorphic alignment is set once, then all they have to do is swap taking lenses. Here's mine: Fabrication can be tricky depending on the the size & weight of your anamorphic, and whether your anamorphic already has filter threads on the front & back. But once you are done, shooting becomes a lot easier. If you do a search (especially in this forum), you will find a lot of different setups that users have created to accomplish this.
  21. Aaron, if you plan on doing any modding/adapting, it's worth getting yourself an affordable digital caliper off eBay.
  22. The B&H is a fantastic lens but requires some gymnastics to really get the most out of it. I'm pretty proud of the mod and I believe it optimizes the B&H to its fullest potential. Tito will be posting a review of it tomorrow. In summary, to duplicate my lens modification, read through this entire thread carefully before starting. You should have the following items: B&H 16mm 2x Anamorphic Lens 58mm Helicoid. You can use a 52mm but the 58mm diameter allows a closer fit, The downside is you'll need to fabricate a retainer ring for the front glass element. Telescope Finderscope Clamp Lens Support Bracket Tap & Die Kit Cyanoacrylate adhesive Drill or Drill Press, and Table Vice 3D Printer ABS Filament Materials for making the polyurethane mold Silicone & Polyurethane Casting Material. I recommend polyurethane Shore D Hardness; 75 (about the same durability as a construction hard hat) 58mm Lens Cap, and cap to fit over the silver Series VII Ring Matte Black Paint, Brush, and Thinner Degreaser and Lithium Grease Sandpaper / Cloth / Finishing Materials Gorilla Tape. Not necessary but a little added protection around the polyurethane Epoxy NAPHTHA and Lens Tissue Micro Tools / Micro Screwdriver Set Digital Caliper with 0.01mm tolerance Expect to replace some parts during fabrication, like iterating the custom mold for the front housing, or breaking a helicoid, or throwing out a lot of failed 3D printing attempts. Here is a breakdown of the labor steps required to produce the finished product: Disassembling, re-greasing, and reassembling the heiicoid (helicoids bought off eBay come with poor quality, low viscosity grease). Removing the original front housing and front glass element. Thinning the matte black paint and painting the edge of the front glass element. If you are lucky, your B&H's front element may already be painted. Combining the lens support with the telescope bracket. The Cyanoacrylate creates a temporary bond between the bracket & clamp, allowing to you drill & tap the hole for the screw that will hold them together permanently Making the mold for the front housing. Lots of trial-and-error here, make sure to read a lot about how to make molds. This is where your McGuyver skills and a trip to Home Depot comes in. Casting the polyurethane for the front housing. Again, some homework is required here, planning, and a tightly sealed mold! 3d Printing an alignment collar for the helicoid to fit on the polyurethane front housing, the retaining ring to hold the glass element in the helicoid, and the follow focus gear. Assembling and gluing all the fabricated parts. Make sure everything fits properly before applying that epoxy! Fit & finish (sanding, polishing, cleaning, etc.) Adjusting the bracket height, the anamorphic alignment and calibrating infinity focus Reviewing test footage to confirm the lens is ready for shooting If you’re doing this for the first time, expect to spend at least 1-2 weeks putting this together. Honestly, even with all the information in this thread I think it will take longer than that. If you have a full time job, expect the process to take a few months. This is not a short-term project, it requires immense patience, but the rewards are excellent! When finished, what you achieve — and I’m typing it again, because it bears repeating — are the following features: Single-focus Infinity focus Follow focus gear for rack-focusing, with a generous throw that allows for precise focus Re-greased helicoid for smooth focus action Minimum focus of just under 1m for the 14mm helicoid version, and just under 30cm for the 30mm helicoid version (that is the closest focus of ANY anamorphic I know of). Beautiful 2x bokeh Superb, stable 15mm rail support that locks in alignment and reduces the time between switching taking lenses Nylon alignment screws that won’t scratch the anamorphic Compact and lightweight (the modded B&H + custom bracket = 866g. In comparison, a 16H + Rangefinder is 880g without the lens clamp, filter clamp, and rail support) 58mm front thread for diopters or ND filters, and a Series VII rear thread The side of the front element is painted matte black to reduce internal barrel reflection and preserve the amazing flares Reversibility: The custom front housing can be removed and replaced with the original housing An ideal anamorphic for micro four-thirds filmmakers I encourage any B&H owner to do this mod. The question you must ask yourself is how much time and money you’re willing to spend to get to a final, usable product. If you have a lot of the equipment already (especially the 3D printer, tap & die kit, etc.) or your own workshop, you will save some money. But for those who don’t have the time or resources, I will be selling my mods for around $1000 (depending on the quality of the original glass, and whether it’s a 14mm or 30mm helicoid). Some of you may think this is expensive, but considering all the work that goes into it, and the value of all the features listed above, I believe this is a fair price. This is a complete, turnkey anamorphic solution: You put the B&H mod on rails with your camera, and start shooting. No other purchases are necessary. If you are interested please message me, I will be be putting the mods up on eBay once Tito has sold his, Some of the proceeds will help me recoup the parts & materials I went through during R&D. Some will go to purchasing a lens from Tito (which will help fund his efforts). Some of it will go towards my next project: modifying the Bausch & Lomb Projection lens. I will add the same level of detail and information to that thread as I've done here. I'm not trying to turn this thread into an advertisement for my mod. I’d love to see other B&H owners continue innovating, modifying, testing, shooting, and posting to this thread to find new ways to get the most out of this great piece of glass! I will continue to answer questions where I can, but I expect my participation on this thread will wane as I turn my eye towards my next projection lens project Keep on modding!
  23. Hi froboy88, thanks! I can't say for certain about s35 since I only have an m43 camera. You can use Tito's calculator or maybe this one to help you figure it out. My best guess is that cropping or using 4:3 mode to get a 2:66:1 ratio on the B&H, you would not get vignetting with a 75mm lens on an s35 sensor.
  24. I'm not sure where you're interpreting this from. It can't be done in a weekend for 130€. Not even close It's not unreasonable to ask 1000 CAD for: Single-focus Rack-focus Infinity focus Minimum focus under 1m 2x bokeh Fantastic flares Excellent 15mm rail support / alignment Compact and lightweight Considering the great condition of Tito’s B&H glass, I think he should be asking $1000 USD. It is a turnkey solution. Tito, did you adjust the front by (un)screwing slightly? I was able to get much better results after that calibration. It took a little trial-and-error, but if you have the camera connected to a monitor, you can fine-tune it fairly quickly.
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