BrorSvensson

5 hours ago, Mattias Burling said:

Today I picked up the 35mm f1.4 and completed my trio for the M8 (also 28mm f2 and 50mm f1.5).

Got all of them in absolute mint condition for a good price used. Will work on any mirrorless camera for video as well.

The best part, besides the excellent image is the very nice build quality and smooth focus, with tabs on all but the 50mm.

Very pancakish.

Is the m8 full frame?

I doubt many new electronic lenses will keep the value in the future but im sure manual lenses like the zeiss and leica lenses with always have their value.

9 minutes ago, Andrew Reid said:

Damn I miss those high end CCD sensors... magic.

F35, M8, Kodak (Digital Bolex) was probably the shortest lived golden era of digital there ever was!

would be awesome to see Bmpcc with an CCD sensor like the one in the D16, it sounds like something that isn't impossible.

One of the nicest looking digital image i've seen

3 minutes ago, Andrew Reid said:

Time. Also what I loved to do was to create mood pieces for any music of my choosing, but the whole Vimeo copyright match bullshit put paid to that 'artform'. No more haunting Radiohead music videos of Buddhist temples thanks to that.

 

Why not upload the pieces to youtube instead? Sure you wont make money of the actual video but it will still be up.

6 hours ago, Phil A said:

How consistent are the Canon NewFD lenses in rendering through the portfolio? Let's say if you shoot the FD 28 f2, 50 f1.4 (or 1.8) and 85 f1.8 on a Sony. Will you get consistent rendering and colors?

I'm looking for a set of 28 - 50 - 85 (for use on an APS-C system) with integrated aperture settings and an aperture of ~ f/2 so I basically ended at Canon FD vs Nikon F (mainly because many systems don't have a good 28mm f/2), but am more torn towards Canon because of the warmer rendering (most modern cameras seem to tend more towards blue or green).

i would personally go with the canons, just because they focus the right way.

wow almost 400 votes for the nx1

Thanks for all the helpful information guys!

11 minutes ago, Ebrahim Saadawi said:

It's absolutely essential to me to remove saturation whilst shooting to reduce chroma clipping. Especially Red channels. I did tests and you can add as much saturation in post as you can but you can't lower the saturation if the channels were clipped. So I reduce saturation. 

in what scenarios do you find red clipping to occur most frequently?

Just now, TheRenaissanceMan said:

I'm no expert, but I'll do my best. 

As I understand it, a luma (brightness) signal is an average/combination of the R, G, and B channels. While the overall brightness (luma) in one area of the frame may not be clipping on the histogram, one of the individual color channels may already have clipped, which causes lost information and strange color artifacts. 

That makes sense, thanks you!

12 minutes ago, TheRenaissanceMan said:

To keep color channels from clipping. You don't want to lower it all the way; 1 or 2 points will do.

Do you mind explaining to me what you mean with "clipping color channel"?

Removing the saturation in camera is one of the things which i've never really questioned or understood why you should do it until recently. What is the reason behind doing this? Wouldn't adding saturation in post vs in camera add more banding and similar? I understand for raw and 10 bit 422 cameras when you have a lot of leeway and are using lü†s, but on an 8bit 420 avdhd image i would only assume that it really isn't that good of an idea. 
Would love to hear the reasonings behind doing this.

10 minutes ago, AaronChicago said:

Ursa Mini

You can also do it on the GH4 but lose a bit of quality.

oh awesome, didn't know you could set specific framerates on those cameras.

36 minutes ago, AaronChicago said:

36fps is my new favorite frame rate for slow mo. Everything flows in a smooth motion and doesn't take too long for an image to resolve. Especially when shooting shorter spots where 60fps is too slow for anything to happen.

what camera are you shooting on, ML raw?

2 hours ago, lafilm said:

 

I've read ZERO noise until 8,000 ISO. Is this true??

 

no camera at any iso has zero noise

4 hours ago, Grégory LEROY said:

You guys have much more experience than me, I'd like to have your feedback. I can read than Sigma lens lack of 3D pop and depth because it contains to much glass (15 elements here). For this reason, videographer and photographer tend to prefer Carl zeiss ZE/ZF, Canon L or Leica R lenses. What's you opinion? 

you have watched to many of "The Angry photographer"s videos.

3 hours ago, Curtis Ross said:

Can this lens autofocus in video mode  on the A7s ii???

yes but not very good

1 hour ago, JurijTurnsek said:

The app has been updated to allow you to turn off that "you're using NTSC mode" message.

now im geniuely excited to try this on my a7, i hate that NTSC thing

Great video @wolf33d! What sound effect is the sweeping sound at 00:27?

4 minutes ago, IronFilm said:

Holy Hell, it is **snowing**?? But it is mid Autumn now for me (for context, it is late at night here... I have all my windows in this room open, and I'm sitting at my desk in swimming shorts and a short sleeved shirt), which must make it mid Spring for you guys? Surely it must be warmer than that!!

april in sweden can be pretty much any season, sometimes it snows like crazy and sometimes its 20 degrees celcius.

this lens + vizelex nd throttle sounds like an awesome combo with the A7 series cameras.

41 minutes ago, muhammadahmad said:

Micro Or blackmagic pocket? I can get a BMPCC for 500$ used. What should I go for? Would be my 1rst camera though.

we need some info about what you shot to tell you that sir.

i use 5900k in daylight with one shift down to magenta

4 hours ago, jagnje said:

has anybody used the vivitar/cosina 19mm 3.8? I`m looking for a wide angle to go with my tokina 28-70 2.8. 

id go with the tokina 17mm 3.5 instead

DId you use some stabalizing software? I see some wierd artefacts here and there.